The Chrysler Sebring Coupe Owners' Page--2004 Listings

The 2004 Sebring Coupe

Below is the 2001-02 model for comparison.

This Web site is devoted to providing information about Chrysler Sebring COUPE (NOT Convertible or Sedan owners). Information and photos of your car should be sent to the site operator at LXiSebring@aol.com I have only a limited amout of mechanical knowledge. Further, I know very little about aftermarket parts. The people who keep track of aftermarket parts are at www.asog.net

If you object to the frame and wish to eliminate the maddening AOL "Hometown frame and Ads," try retyping in the following link for this page and put it in your bookmarks
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/LXiSebring/ownerseb.htm The page appears to come up free of the AOL frame when I type that in my browser. Let me know if this works for you as well.

LXiSebring's '95 LXi

Kimmy's 1997 LXi is featured this week

News: Daimler Chrysler pulls the plug on Mitsubishi

Daimler Chrysler announced that they are pulling the plug on their financial investment in MItsubishi. Whether this is the end of Mitsubishi is unclear. Chrysler is writing off their investment (which was about a third of the stock of the company) unless a buyer can be found. What's weird is that this had been the corporate strategy into the mid-priced Asiam market.

Where this leaves the Sebring coupe is unclear. I gather a next gen Sebring coupe scheduled for 20067-2007 was already well under development based on the current rather than last genertation Gallant chassis. One option could be that this car is simply eliminated from the lineup. Another option would be to do a steel-top coupe version based on the Convertible chassis, which would probably not be that difficult to do. What happens to The plant in Normall Ill, where Galants, Eclipses and Sebring coupes are assembled is anyone's guess right now. The convertibles I believe are all built in a plant in Mexico just across the Texas border. We will have to wait and see. Another interesting issue is that the V6 engines in the sedan and convertible are also Mitsubishi, so the future source there is up in the air. We will have to wait and see!

This is the opportunity for owners of Chrysler Sebring Coupes to tell everyone about their cars. To be included in the Chrysler Sebring Owners' Page and be a part of the internet "club," simply e-mail me with information about your car. I've changed the format a bit so that the newest owners now appear at the top of the file.

Welcome

I am not a customer service representative for you, and while you might feel good by writing a letter that vents your anger over a problem with your car or your dealer, we are not going to post letters that identify an individual dealer, nor act as your advocates for you in these disputes. My experience has been that most service departments will try hard to deal with a customer complaint, but they too have limits in terms of what they are able to do. Further, if you do not feel that you are getting adequate service at your dealer, get a second opinion ata second dealership, calmly explaining what the problem is and what the first dealer attempted to do that did not repair the problem. Service people are human too and if you go in angry, chances are you won't get their best work on your behalf.


Go to the owners'Photo Page The Photo Page HAS MOVED. Send me a note at LXiSebring@aol.com if you see problems with your photo. There are still a few broken photos.


The Sebring Coupe owners' page will be moving soon too. I will keep you posted.


Sebring Coupe Archives

Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2003


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2002


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2001


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2000


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 1999


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 1998


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 1997


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed during 1996


return to The Obscure Facts Page

For those of you who are actually looking for the Sebring CONVERTIBLE, to my knowledge no one currently maintains a similar site for convertible owners. We don't deal with Sebring Convertibles or Sedans here because they are different cars built on different chasses in an entirely different plant. Sebring coupes are built by Mitsubishi employees based loosely on the Galant/Eclipse chassis (these cars are also built there). The Convertibles and Sedans are built on a Chrysler-designed "P" car chassis and assembled by Chrysler employees in Chrysler plants. Even the V6 used in the Coupe is different from the one used in sedans and convertibles. The 200 hp coupe engine in the 2001 is a high output 3.0 Mitsubishi V6. The 200 hp V6 used in the sedans andconvertibles is an all-Chrysler engine first used a couple years ago in the Intrigue/Concorde redesign. The coupe engine is used on the Eclipse and Galant as well.



Also, check out

The Avenger Sebring Owners Group (ASOG) Website

The MOPAR website

MOPAR Chatroom

MOPAR Auction

Note: Please e-mail Eric or me any Coupe problems you have and the solutions, if any.

The Official Chrysler web site

I hadn't stopped by the Official Chrysler Website (www.chrysler.com) for quite awhile. I was amazed to see the many things that were available. What caught my eye was that you can order owner's manuals and factory service manuals directly off of a site button. I checked the price for an owner's manual for my '95, and it was a very reasonable $6. So if you need an owner's manual or serbvice manual for your Sebring that is the place to go!

Also interesting was the fact that you could get a price quote on any Chrysler Corp vehicle. I gather this works somewhat like Vehix.com. and undoubtedly there is a connect to dealers in your area. This may not work out to be the final deal, but these sorts of things certainly help limit the search (and the pain of negotiating with greasy sales managers over a few dollars).

On a side note, a local dealer (Lexington KY) is advertizing new 2002 Sebring LXi coupes that have a sticker of 25K+ for 19,700. I gather this is one with all the regular LXi features, V6, and auto, but without the ABS, leather or the sun roof.

Aftermarket parts

LXiSebring: I had this note relative to body parts for convertibles, but maybe the same company would be interested in doing coupe parts as well.

Leu writes

Hello and thank you for your time. I am a proud owner of a 1997 Chrysler Sebring Convertible but as you might already know there are not many after marker Accessory for our car's. i would like to put a hood scoop or a spoiler around the fender's. they make these parts for just about any car but the Sebring Convertible, i finally found a company that will start to make the parts for our car's, but only if i can get 15 or more other Sebring Convertible owner's to contact them in support of this. The more the better but I would like your help in this if you would. Please let me know what you think of this. here is the company information that you will need to contact them.

Pakfeifer Canada Products Chrysler Body Kits E-mail Address is info@Pakfeifer.Canada.com

Here is there Web site

http://www.pakfeifercanada.com/bodykits_chrysler.php

Or just go to a search engine and type in Pakfeifer Canada Products Chrysler Body Kits

again thank you for your time


A V6 owner wrote

here is a link to the supercharger kit for the 2.5 liter v-6. it gave me about 80 extra horsepower at the wheels but i had to add a transmission oil cooler. it was a pretty difficult installation. it worth the 4000 dollars. it comes with Blow-Off Valve, FMU fuel control, inline fuel pump, boost and a/f meter, silicone hoses, and SC to throttle body pipes. I used a k&n air filter.

link:http://www.boosthead.com/kitsbymake.html

you will need a custom exhaust. i made a cat back 2.5 in with a high flow cat and dual chrome plated mufflers. the charger is really hard on the transmission.

So there is a supercharger out there but I wouldnt expect Chrysler to do warranty work on a vehicle so modified. and your transmission may quickly end up as a heap of oil and metal filings on your garage floor! There are a limited number of aftermarket parts available. No, I dont know of any ground effects kits or clear taillights. THe guys at www.asog.net keep closer track of this stuff than I do. This is what I know so don't expect to learn any more by writing me.

If you want a custom spoiler painted in your body color they are about $245 at www.sportwing.com

If you want custom gauges the kits in various colors are about $107 at www.speedhut.com, but only for 95-2000 models (yet)

I have not purchased anything from any of these companies so this is not an endorsement of any of these but is just information for you.

Instrument Cluster Repairs

speedo@fuse.net (roger yenke) To: LXiSebring@aol.com For the servicing of the common problems associated with the instrument cluster. If interested please email to Roger Yenke (speedo@fuse.net)

Replacing batteries in remote keyless entry transmitters

I had an interesting experience when the remote Keyless entry no longer worked on my car. I presumed it was time for battery replacement, My unit is from 1995, and I'm not sure if the design changed significantly in later years or not. Anyway here is what I ran into. I first pried the two sides of the keychain transmitter apart. If you have fairly long fingernails you can actually carefully pry the two sides apart. At that point, one of the two batteries will fall out in your hand. The batteries are quarter-sized number CR2016, and the Energizer replacement is readily available in the jewelry counter at KMart (2.99 each) or in the photography counter at Wal Mart (1.99). Figuring out how the batteries go in is a bit of an issue. They actually fit one on top of the other, with the plus (flatter) side of both of the the batteries toward the springs in the cover section. The slightly rounded negative side of the battery fits against the shiny flat circle on the bottom where the transmitter part actually is. I reassembled and it works (it didn't work with the batteries installed upside down). I would be interested in hearing if any of you have had experience installing batteries in later models and whether these instructions are correct for those models as well.


Click here to visit the Chrysler Central Website Stop in and say hello!!!

If you are interested in trade-in values on Sebrings, check out The Kelly Blue Book SiteInteresting to note that the Chrysler website now has a link to the Kelly Blue Book site--how times change in the automobile business!


Performance Tips from Eric

I promised you earlier that I would find hard evidence before I recommended any performance parts.I am sick of the hype and the 'magic products.' Here are some options.

SPARK PLUGS:

For the 4 cylinder NGK recommends the BKR6E-11 set at 0.050".
For the V-6 NGK recommends the PFR5G-11, set at 0.044" - NGK's initial setting,
thus the "-11" or 1.1 mm.
If you like the idea of using Platinum plugs or have questions reguarding them you can Email me (Drawsoncad@aol.com)
The NGK engineer for Chrysler applications is (knakayama@ngksparkplugs.com)

WAX & POLISH:

Want to try the absolutely best car polish system in the World? Zaino Bros. I have used these products for a long time and let me tell you nothing compares. Did I mention the owner Sal is a really nice guy and will answer all your questions?

PERMANENTLY SOLVING BRAKE PROBLEMS:

THESE PART NUMBERS FIT 1995-2000 Sebrings. Eric is in the process of getting the correct numbers for 2001-2002 Sebrings. Stay tuned. Here are Eric's recommended part numbers:

Front Axxis Pads........................23-484-01
Front Power Stop rotor/left side......JBR518SL
Front Power Stop rotor/right side....JBR518SR
Rear Axxis Pads.........................23-383-01
Rear Power Stop rotor/left side.......JBR772SL
Rear Power Stop rotor/right side.....JBR772SR

These are slotted rotors that will solve the warping problem so common on Sebrings/Avengers. Contact Ralph at Olympic tell him I sent you. He will set you up with a set of Powerstop SLOTTED rotors and Axxis metal master pads. I'm sure that they are available elsewhere but their prices and service is second to none. When you have them installed make sure that they replace the brake clips (Hardware) and lubricate ALL the contact points of the pad to the calipers. This will fix your problem.

LXiSebring's Shine and Show Trick

Having trouble getting those black plastic outside mirrors to get back to a factory sheen? Try a silicone-based product for blackwalls and black plastic trim. I use Westley's "Black Magic" I bought my bottle some years ago. Check your favorite auto supply store. This restores the dulled and faded plastic part to its original factory sheen, tho you may have to reapply it occasionally. Fading of the mirror plastic appears to particularly be a problem on 95-96 models.

Rambling Commentary on DaimlerChrysler and its future products by LXiSebring

The Sebring coupes are quite different cars from the sedans and convertibles. The 4 dr and convertible Sebrings are Chrysler-made and based on the Chrysler engineered "P" chassis--I believe some if not all are built in a Mexican plant which is just over the Texas Border where Chrysler has a big plant. 4-door owners check your build tag on your driver's side B pillar and tell me what it says. If you remember the Plymouth Acclaim, that was an early version of the "P" car chassis. The Sebring coupe is built in Normal Illinois by Mitsubishi workers in the Diamond Star Motors (DSM) plant, and is based on the completely different Mitsubishi Galant chassis. The V6 in the sedan is a version of the Chrysler-designed V6 that first showed up in the Intrepid, but the coupe V6 is a Mitsubishi design. Both coupe and sedan use the same Chrysler-designed 4 cyl, which is a variant of the 4 cyl also used in the Neon and PT-Cruiser.

It is helpful to think of the Eclipse as being built on a shortened Galant chassis rather than the Sebring coupe as a stretched Eclipse.

Chrysler, after almost completely severing ties with Mitsubishi just before the Damlier merger (The Sebring Coupe was the only really shared product by about '98 and Chrysler had non Mitsubishi-based V6s in their then-new sedans) now is very cozy with them again. Daimler Chrysler doesn't truly own Mitsubishi, but as I understand it, they have about 1/3 of the shares. Thats enough so Mitsubishi doesn't do anything now without checking first with DC headquarters in Germany. The DC/Mitsubishi partnership is similar to what GM has going on with Subaru and now GM used a bunch of Subaru parts in the new Pontiac Solstace--Bob Lutz's pet project at GM.

In the future I expect to see a new DC chassis common to both the P cars and the Galant derivatives and perhaps even eventually derivatives of the Mercedes C class--since all three are so similar in size and layout. Also, dont tell Mercedes owners, but there are cheaper Mercedes coming out that will share lots of parts and engineering with Chrysler & Mitsubishi, and Mercedes parts will be showing up on Chrysler and MItsubishi cars too. Expect luxury Chrysler cars to pull more and more engineering from Mercedes just as the new Lincoln model shares underpinnings with the S-Type Jaguar. Meanwhile, everyone knows that the new Jaguar X-Type is built on as Ford chassis widely used in Europe, but appearing in the US as the now-defunct Ford Contour/Mercury Mystique. This isn't all glued together yet, but thats what will happen. If Mercedes engineers a good new front suspension, why reinvent it and have to pay for additional engineering work at Chrysler or Mitsubishi, espcially if all the cars it could be used in have similar size and weight.

Plus, Mercedes is really looking to expand into the under $30,000 market world-wide, which means the "Not engineered in Germany" opposition will end up being muted and Germans will be happily buying cars that are mostly Chryslers & Mitsubishis but with the three-pointed star on the grille. The new Mercedes little hatchback just came out (Compressor) with (gasp!) cloth upholstery and in the mid 20s! I think the short wheelbase and hatchback design wont do very well in the US, however--the design is just too European for us. Hatchback cars have never been popular in the US regardless of who makes them. But a new Mercedes Coupe built with the overall size and other design parameters of a Sebring coupe and under $30,000. That is quite buildable out of the existing Mercedes/Chrysler/Mitsu parts bin and it could happen!

parts locator Link

Check with Mike mike@uneedapart.com Havent ttried this company so have no recommendation on Sebring parts

Xenon Bulb Study

Eric says he is going to do an independent study on these fancy new "HID" look replacement bulbs. It looks to me like they have figured out how to color correct Halogen bulbs by tinting them and using new gas mixes inside. I have contacted some manufactures and they are sending samples.

LXiSebring: According to the newspaper, the new bulbs on expensive cars are "high-theft" items.

Computer resetting

The best way to reset is to disconnect the battery and reconnect.

Reprogramming remote keyless entry units

Not sure how much of this applies to the Sebring coupe, but Click here

John Tells me that he has a Web site called Auto Makes and Models http://www.auto-makesnmodels.com/ and he has a link to our site here. Stop by and say hello.

Sebring Coupe Owners Listed in 2004:

Kimmy writes

Hi, I'd like to join your club. I would like to ask your fellow members if anyone has the security sequence code for a 1997 LXI coupe? I bought it from a small dealership and they didnt have the manual. So i dont know what the code is.

I have the remote, but they said I would have to goto a Chrysler dealership and they charge me to have the code put on my car... I'd rather pocket the money and find another source until I absolutely have to conceed and get charged.

Thanks In advance,


Linda writes

This past month while I was driving in my neighborhood, a rope hanging from The window of the car door of a '98 LXi sebring caught my eye. I slowed Down and I thought to myself, 'how funny, it has the same problem I have-no Handle'. I can't open the driver's side of the door without having to crawl Through the passenger's side of the car to unlock and open it. I went to a lunch date this past Friday and on my way out I noticed a black Sebring just like mine. The window was partially open on the driver's side With a nasty storm approaching. Damn if the car didn't have a handle. I walked back into the restaurant and asked who was the owner of the Sebring. Luckily I found her on my first try and I laughed as she told me Her story. Not only did this young lady have the driver's side handle break Off, but in that same week the other handle broke off as well. What is going on? You must had heard horror stories like these. What's Happening to these cars. The plastic car door handle have broken off and It's pretty embarrassing crawling into a beautiful car just to get in. How Many more problems like have you heard of? Please tell me, are there other Cases like this elsewhere? And if so, will you please tell me what has been Done to solve this problem. I mean, what were my possibilities of finding Others in one month's time? And in my neighborhood! I didn't expect It...it must be a sign.

LXiSebring: Pretty high, unfortunately. These door handles break fairly regularly. Basically you need to get them replaced at a dealers.


pcrane writes

This morning I like to say it was good but I'd be telling you a Lie I've replaced fuel filter spark plug wires, spark plugs distributor, cam shaft sensor timing belt,air filter religiously,changed oil filter, oil, trany fluid all belts egr valve just changed,battery changed battery, post changed still running rough, it doesn't run rough when engine is still not hot, but when it warms up it stalls, coughs eventually dies out start up again runs good for a block or two, then stalls, want to put it to rest but can't I'm single father who is trying to make ends meet its christmas I spent a good dollar, still trying to catch up on bills I let go, just to fix the damn thing


LXiSebring: I dunno what to tell you on this one.


Bryan writes

I have had a serious issue with my car. Below is a description of my problem.

My car is in perfect shape (50,000 miles) according to my 10 point inspection except for the malfunctioning computer. My spark plugs and wires are platinum originals and should last for 75,000 miles. What I heard today from my Chrysler dealer really floored me about my Coupe.

The guy gives me this service bulletin (6 pages) that shows my 2001 Sebring Coupe with Misfire Diagnostic trouble codes in the heading. What he says has to be done to get my Check Engine light to go off is, the Powertrain Control Module has to be reprogrammed and I have to get different platinum spark plugs installed in order to avoid engine damage. This is since the software upgrade would conflict with my current spark plugs. The real reason this is so odd is this only happened to cars made after Sept 25, 2000. These cars were given a Mitsubishi Engine and Mitsubishi computer, which means Chrysler has complicated issues fixing them. How unlucky for me.

What's worse is I called my Daimler Chrysler extended warranty people, and they said, even though it was through no fault of my own, the reprogramming and spark plugs aren't covered under my warranty, since everything still works. I told him this was unreasonable thinking and asked to file a complaint, but he said he would document it, so I won't call them again.

I'm debating just driving it until another spark plug misfires other than cylinder 1, something major goes, or at 75,000 miles WHEN I actually need new spark plugs, since the only thing wrong is the check engine light comes on due to computer error.

I've read that you've told several people on the website to contact their regional Chrysler company for reimbursement. How do you do this, does it make sense in my case, have you heard of my problem? I'm in Cleveland, OH. My ballpark cost to fix this problem was $300, which includes 6 plat plugs, 2 plenum gaskets, program computer, wires, and labor. Is there one close to me I could talk to?

LXiSebring: Your dealer service manager should be able to give you the phone number or email address for the regional manager. They deal with them all the time, and this is where complaints from unhappy customers initially get lodged. Other than that, if it's still under warranty I would just keep driving it and see what happens. If something major breaks under warranty its their problem not yours. If the warranty was close to expiring I might give different advice. The extended warranty people are not the regional complaint office, and may simply be an insurance company doing business as Chrysler Warranty. Of course they behave like any insurance company and try to get out of paying for anything they think they can get out of paying. Insurance companies exist to collect premiums not to pay claims they think they can fight.


Harry S. writes

Hello I am Harry Svingen I live @ Airdrie Alberta Canada Seeking info on spoiler for a 2002 sebring, inferno red any help on what looks good and what's not would be appreciated

Thanks in Advance

Harry Svingen

LXiSebring: Can any reader here help Harry?


Thomas writes I recently bought a used 1996 Chrysler Sebring coupe. I am having some trouble with the brakes making a squeaking noise when a moderate amount of pressure is applied. If I press real hard the noise usually goes away. I took off all 4 wheels and inspected the brakes and the fornt and rear pads are in good conditions with the rear pads and discs looking the oldest. I tried putting some anti-squeak stuff on the pads and disc and this seems to help somewhat but I still hear a squeaking sound. Do you think that when I eventually replace the discs and brakes the problem will go away. Or, what is your advice?

Thank you very much. Your website is very informative and I enjoy reading the postings.

LXiSebring: Some brakes just squeek. Sometimes it goes away but other times not. If the brakes are in good condition and you have adequate fluid you probably won't resolve the problem w/o new pads and freshly-turned rotors. You might stop at one of the big aftermarket brake shoips and see what they have to say. They probably will inspect it and give a free diagnosis, and you can decide from there what you want to do.


Angelo Russo writes

I have a 1998 Sebring LXI with 190,000 kms. I have two problems, I would like advice on. The first one is the car rattles when you go over a bump. I had a mechanic check out the car and said the ball joints need to be replaced. I changed both ball joints and $300 later the problem still exists. I went back to the mechanic and he said you need inner tie rods. Is this a common problem? Will this fix the problem? The mechanic said its not a shock or strut issue. Problem 2 is the engine light has come on and won't go off. I brought the car to a Chrysler dealer and they said its either a sensor or its the catalytic converter. They changed the sensor and the light was off when I got the car but ten minutes of driving the light came back on. Do I change the catalytic converter or is this a computer issue? The dealer claims the sensor is not under warranty and won't give me back a cent as they claim we told you it could be either issue. Dealers change parts and expect the customer to pay for their testing. I thought they were experts?

LXiSebring: I think the mechanic is fishing for a repair by trying things one at a time at your expense. You reaslly need a dealer service dept to do a repair diagnosis on the ball joint tie rod issue.

If the light is on take it to a second dealer and get them to do a diagnosis. See if THEY conclude its the converter too. This might cost you $35 but its worthwhile. I;m not sure if your converter is out of warranty but these parts typically have very long warranties. While you have it at the second dealer, have them look at the inner tie rod issue too. Sometimes its best to NOT tell the service dept at the new dealer what the diagnosis was at the other dealership so as to not bias them.


J_Schlabach writes

Hello, Ive got a 99 sebring LXI, it cranks but wont turn over, replaced the battery as you suggested, worked for a week, continued to start most of the time, then crank and not turn over. 2nd time it got towed to a repair shop, he put on a new fuel filter, started great for 1 1/2 weeks, same problem back. He told us to wait til it completely died with no hope of starting, towed it back. He put on a new fuel pump, worked great for 2 weeks. Towed it in again, the husband went over to the shop and unplugged some sensors, OF COURSE it started right up. The mechanic ran scans on it and found nothing wrong. ARGGGGG! Its still starting now, but need a real professional to give me some suggestions! I luv my sebring and now im nervous every time I get into it! Any suggestions would be MOST appreciated! Judy Schlabach


Kayla writes

I recently purchased a 1996 Sebring LXi. It it is dark purple with a sunroof, cd player and gray leather interior. I am a senior in high school, and this car goes over great with my peers! It has enough power for my busy life, yet not quite the gas mileage of my prior car ('89 Ford Tempo!) I bought this car from a friend of my mom's. I paid $2500 for it with 95k miles on it. I love my Sebring!!

LXiSebring: YOU are in!!


Ramon writes

I have a 1996 sebring coupe, I recently was in a car wreck and have been working on the car. Minor damages only, but I was just wanting to know where the fuel shut off switch/relay (the switch that is triggered during a wreck to prevent fuel leakage) is located and how to reset it, because I cant seem to find it. Please help me, thanks!

LXiSebring. I'm stumped on that one. You need to get yourself a sevice manual for your Sebring if you are doing that much work on it.


Prentiss writes

My name is Prentiss I own a 1997 Sebring Lxi . I have the factory 17 inch alloy wheel but I want go with a 20 inch wheel.

LXiSebring: What's important is the outside diameter wheel and tire, and there is little clearance. You need to make sure the wheel and tire you chose doies not exceed the outside diameter of the OEM whell and tire. I'm not sure of the tire size on the 17 inch '97 wheel but someone here will know.


Thomas writes

hi! My name is Thomas I have a sebring coupe LX 1998.The car is in white colour ,has 66 000 miles so not bad.is in good condition because I just bought this car and I want to take care on it. my front bumper is broken so i need by one or glue this one, I would like to know how to put my headlight up,i need a manual for this car and I have a problem with steering.my wheel driving has a vibratiom.i already did a balance for front wheels but probalbly I have to do an aligment. thanks,Tomas

LXiSebring: Manuals can be obtained at your dealers' parts dept.


Danny writes

Thank you in advance to taking the time to respond to my query. I have a 1998 sebring coupe LX (2.5 L V6) with the engine light lit up. I started it up this morning and noticed a rough idle for a brief period, then it seems to have left, and now I have the engine light stuck on. It does not have a digital odometer. How do I coax it to give up the computer codes, and better yet, do you have a chart to compare them to for diagnosis. Even still better, any idea what is wrong? I completed my highway commute with no troubles, other than the extra illumination on the dash.

LXiSebring: Unfortunately, Eric hasnt been around lately and he was the one who understood those codes. USUALLY a check engine light comes on because of a failure of some emissions control component or sensor, often an oxygen sensor. Generally you will need a dealer diagnosis to track down exactly what sensor is acting up but the rough idle is consistent with that. This stuff is at a level of complexity and requires diagnostic equipment beyond what a do it yourselfer can do.

Danny writes

Thanks for your reply. I was really nervous about the whole issue so I took the car to Canadian Tire, who hooked it up to their scanner for the low low price of $80 and told me that it was a sensor glitch from the Power stearing. After the informative diagnosis from the 'Wrench", he told me next time the light comes on, disconnect the battery for 30 seconds to clear the code, and then restart. If the light comes on again, then there is an issue that should be looked into. Thanks though!


Kathy writes

Hi I hope you can help me.My name is Kathy. I bought a 99 Sebring LXI 4 or 5 months ago. Last month the check engine light came on. The car had a rough idle and ran terrible. I took it and had a diagnostic test. The test showed a misfire on #3 & #5 cylinder. We changed the plugs & wires, plenum gasket and air filter. The light was still on so we had them reset it. It came back on so we had a diagnostic test done again. This time it showed the following codes:

P0113 - Air Charge Temp Sensor
P0172 - Left Bank Rich
P0175 - Right Bank Rich
P0300 - Multiple misfire

The car was in the shop for 2 days. The check engine light was on but they could not get a hard code on the diagnostic test. They replaced the cap and rotor (not the problem). The injectors ohmed out ok. The car went back into the shop 2 days later (check engine light off)they changed the Air Charge Temp Sensor (not the problem). They ran a 7 page test of some kind, at one point it said change computer. When driving the car you had to keep 1 foot on the brake and 1 foot on the gas or the car would die. The following day the check engine light came on and flashed temporarily. then went back off and stayed off.. I took it into the Chrysler dealer and they determined it was the powertrain control module. They replaced it and then found it needed an EGR valve. Since I got it back it now starts normal on occasion and the other times I have to step on the gas while trying to start it. They had it back in the shop but said they think the problem was because it got gas into where the spark plugs were when it was having the other problem and it would take time to work itself out. It has been 2 weeks now and I still have to step on the gas when I start it. Do you have and suggestions as to what might be the problem. I honestly don't know what to do and the car is not under warranty so I can't afford to keep taking it back to the shop. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thank You

LXiSebring:Generally these kinds of problems are beyond what a do it yourselfer can resolve as they require specialized diagnostic equipment. Your dealer who charged you for the first repair and claimed to have diagnosed it accurately is now obligated to get the car running right. Clearly the problem has not been resolved if the car still isn't running right, and you should not be required to pay for dealer experiments that involve replacing parts one by one that are not bad. So really you have little choice but to go back to the dealer and tell the service manager hat they have not diagnosed the problem correctly, and the car still doesnt run right. Generally if dealer service depts make 3 tries w/o success they will work out an arrangement whereby the service dept at another dealer can look at it.


Jim writes

I purchased a 1996 Sebring LXI coupe about a month ago. It is idling rough. Almost like it is missing. Then when I get it up over about 1200 RPM it is fine. I have replaced the EGR valve, Distributor cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and crankshaft sensor. The Battery is less than a year old and tests OK.

I purchased the first EGR valve from AutoZone. Then I was not happy and went to Advance Auto and bought another. The last one I purchase has a spot for the EGR pipe to connect. I checked my manual and it shows a pipe connecting to the EGR valve, but I do not see a pipe anywhere. Is this a misprint in the book? The engine is the 2.5 V6

What can I do to solve this problem? The more stuff I run (ex. Heater, radio, rear defrost, lights) the worse it gets.

Any help would be great

LXiSebring: My first theory would be problems with an emmisions control sensor THese are nearly impossible to diagnose on your own without test equipment the dealer has.


Bobbi S writes

I bought my daughter a 1997 sebring. It has now been in the dealers shop for 27 days. The car will stall intermediately. It usually does it when you are stopped. But the last time she drove it....it was in motion and she went off an embankment. I refused to drive it until it was fixed. They have tried part after part and are now saying it needs an entire new wiring harness because there is a short in one of the "over one hundred" wires. Have you heard of any other people with this problem???

LXiSebring: A few people have complained of stalling problems, but there doesnt seem to be any consistent cause.


kevin writes

Hi, I also have a '95 Sebring LXI coupe - which is starting to need a lot of work. Suspension, tires, plugs. I can't afford all this and figure I will do as much as I can on my own. Is there some place on the net I can download some pictures and info on how to get to the plugs to change them?

LXiSebring: You need a 95 Sebring service manual which you should be able to order at your dealers. Also, check the on-line bookstores for one of the aftermarket Chiltons or similar manuals.


LXiSebring: I've had mine for 10 years and it seems to be running fine,If something major goes wrong I will need to get a new car, But meanwhile I'm not losing any sleep. Any car that goes for 10 years with no major repairs is a decent car, and given the age and trade-in value at this point, I might as well run it till it dies. Willie writes

i have a 2003 chrysler sebring coupe and i would like to be part of your club my name is willie

LXiSebring: YOu are in!


Estep writes

I disconnected my neg cable on my battery cable on my 97 chrsyler sebring. While I was replacing the valve cover gasket, I left off over night. When I got it back together the car would not start. I codes that flashed were 12 and 55. I was told that there was a reset on the firewall, but I couldn't find it. So how do clear the computor, by the way it's 2.0 daul overhead cam.

LXiSebring: Well disconnecting hte battery DID reset the computer. But that shouldn't have caused the car not to start. So I'm stumped.


Steve writes

T Nice website ... may I join? I just purchased a 2004 Sebring LX (2.4L) from a rental car agency (Budget). She has only 11,000 miles on her. After 3 days on my driveway, I noticed oil spots the diameter of a baseball (about 3"). I drove it to my personal mechanic and, after about 5 minutes on the hoist, he diagnosed the leak as a "blown rear cylinder head gasket" (if I understood him correctly). He also noticed serious scrapes/scratches on the undercarriage and new cotter keys in the front ball joints. Front bumper fascia is also loose and scraped up. The manager at Budget has agreed to buy the car back and sell me something else, like an '04 Impala. I realize the Sebring is still under factory warranty, but I am a bit spooked by the leak and body damage. Signs of abuse that throw up a red flag? What should I do, Eric ... keep it or say goodbye? It is currently sitting at the local Chrysler dealer awaiting an official diagnosis. Thanks!

LXiSebring: Were I in your shoes, I'd opt for the buy back and look for a different one.


Barry Zide writes

Could you tell me the location of the hood switch on my 1999 Sebring Coupe. I have huge problems with the alarm system no one seems to be able to figure out. Is is a mechanical switch or a sensor??.........BZ

LXiSebring: Try along edge of hood in engine comparetment, on passenger side--a switch much like a door light switch.


Joy writes

I own a 2000 Chrylser Sebring 6 cyl that has 64000 miles. I have had my beautiful car for almost 4 years now with virtually nothing other than routine maintainance. The other day I noticed some of my dash lights were out, mainly when I put on the headlights at night, I couldn't see the lights on my dashboard. Another problem, what I considered to be small was that around the same time the cigarette lighter no longer worked. Out of the blue the lights began working again, only to stop later on. Now for the kicker. The speedometer and odometer have stopped working AND the car does not seem to want to go into second gear. It is an automatic but it is not "shifting" up when I pick up speed and the RPM ? I think thats the gadget, goes up to 3.5 ish when I am around 40. ( the only reason I knew I was at about 38-40 mph is a police board on the side of the road ) I have an appt with the dealership for this Friday to check it out. I bought the car almost new (program car ?) and purchased an comprehenive warranty for 5 years 75,000. I feel so lost with my baby being ill !! I love this car ! Any ideas on what could possibly be causing this wierd behavior and what kind of money I could be into it for ? Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

LXiSebring: These electrical glitches are tough as all get out to resolve on your own, and are the kinds of things you need to have a good dealer service department look at. THey have tools at their disposal you and I have not. I suspect an intermittent fuse.


Rowland writes

Thanks for your input on our recent purchase. We just bought this 1995 mint condition car with only 60 kms on it. It was owned by one elderly owner who babied the car as you can tell by the low kms and excellent condition. The only options it doesn't have are the leather interior and power sunroof....too bad?????? My question is was the 1995 year sebring coupe a good year made and how would it compare to other similar cars, etc., if you compared with consumer reports or other car mags. Was there any problems with this year car as the kms increase with our use? Thanks again, as it is a beautiful looking car and my wife will love the feel I'm sure. Regards

LXiSebring: Well this entire Web site outlines various problems people have had. I have had good luck with my '95 replacing only tires and batteries. She ran like a top on a 200 mile trip last weekend. I just put new tires on mine--Bridgestone Insignia's--and I really like both the ride and handling--they aren't a really high performance tire--but they do good on the Interstate and look to have a good all-weather tread too. Much better tire than the OEM Goodyears, and a reasonable price 65000 trad warranty. I paid $364 for four out the door at the local tire center.


Chris Henderson writes

GREETINGS Dave, I have a 1996 Sebring LXi Coupe. This morning I purchased two (2) Sylvania Halogen H-3, 100 Watt bulbs as replacements for my OEM 55 Watt bulbs.

Before I install these higher watt bulbs, I am wondering if our wiring will support these bulbs. Do you know of any other owner's experience with this upgrade?

Thank you,

LXiSebring: I don't know thoi someone here might.


Amanda writes

I was just wondering if you know where the keyless entry control box is located on the sebring's or avenger's... thanks!

LXiSEbring: I'm not sure but someone who reads this might know.


Dennis writes

I hope you can answer - I've tried several people who should know and do not.

I have a red 2000 Sebring LXI which recently had a battery problem. It turns out that the new battery was reversed during installation and that the battery plus anode was inadvertently connected to the negative for only a short 15 seconds or so. The horn blew and there were lots of sparks. Things were then corrected, except some strange things are happening.

One of the 10 amp fuses under the hood for the radio was blown. This was replaced and the radio now lights up as if it were going to work - proper stations. etc., except that there is no sound. I unscrewed the radio to insure that the speakers were connected and found out that they were.

I suspect that maybe another fusible link or fuse is blown somewhere, perhaps you could advise me where to locate it.

LXiSebring:I worry you've blown something internal to the radio if DC current went through backwards. There may be fuses inside the radio that were blown. You need to try and see if you can get the radio to work from a separate 12 volt power supply. Otherwise you need to take the unit to an auto stereo repair place. Dealers only know how to take out radios and put new ones in, they don't know how to repair them.


Leslie writes

My name is Leslie Bielski and I currenty own a 1997 Chrysler Sebring LX, with the 2.5 L v6 engine. I see that you have a few known problems listed with these cars. Well I would like to inform you or another one. Back in July, 2004, I was having problems with the vehicle running poorly. Well I worked at a vehicle repair facility at that time and had the mechanics check out the vehicle. The check engine light was on, so they ran a diognostic on the vehicle to see what they could find. All they found was that the vehicle was mis-firing on cylinder #3. So natrually, we did a tune-up and assumed that would fix the problem. Well after completing the tune-up, the vehicle wasn't running any better, and the check engine light still remained on. So what I decided to do was take the car to the dealership to see if they could locate an additional problem. They had my car for 4 hours and said that they couldn't find anything wrong with it. So, I picked up the vehicle and drove it for about 2 more weeks. During this time, the check engine light was still on, the vehicle would bearely run, and inorder to drive it, you had to keep your foot on the gas at all times to keep it running. So i had the mechanics at work look at it again. They still were unable to find out what was wrong with it. Well then in August, 2004, we had finally located what was wrong with the vehicle. The main computer that runs everything was malfunctioning. So I called chrysler and explained our findings, and all they could tell me was that the 1997-1998 Chrysler vehicles with the 2.5L V6 engine had a problem with the computers from manufacturing,the board inside the computer cracks and they did not know what causes the problem, and will not do anything about it. So, basically they told me they were aware of the problem but oh well. Well since then in the last month, I have ran into 6 other people with the same types of vehicle, and the same problem. I just thought that i would inform you of this and if you could email me back that would be great. THANKS MUCH.

LXiSebring: I would keep pestering the regional office for at least a partial refund on the cost of the repair,


Alex Park writes

Hello.

I'm really glad to find your web site that gave me many useful information about my car. I have a 1997 Sebring Coupe V6 Maroon color. Nice and smooth. I like it much. Shortly I have a question about the sebring coupe. I heard that Sebring has same parts with Eclipse. If it is right, What parts exactly same as Eclipse? Exterior or Interior? Could you tell me more about that?

Thanks.

LXiSebring:lots of parts. Under the plastic cladding are Eclipse doors, for starters. THe dash is the same, tho the wheelbase has been stretched about 9 inches, which adds rear seat legroom in the Sebring the Eclipse doesnt have.


Bill writes

Just thought I would add my own "CRY"-SLER Sebring experience to your website. This is the letter I wrote to Chrysler concerning a transmission leak. I've recently had a very disheartening experience with my Chrysler 2002 Sebring that makes me question how much you value your customers. Last week I noticed that my car was running rough so I decided to take it to the Georgetown Chrysler Jeep dealership for a service. They soon found that the Transmission Oil Pan was leaking fluid causing the car to slip in and out of gear. I initially thought the repair should be covered by the 70,000 mile PowerTrain Warranty but they said it appeared that the Oil Pan was hit voiding the warranty. Since the repair was only a few hundred dollars I didn't feel there was any point to arguing their diagnosis. After waiting a few days for the part to arrive they installed the new Oil Pan and told me that it didn't fix the problem and that a new transmission was needed. Then to my utter shock they gave me an estimate of $5,000 to replace the transmission. Again they pointed to their original diagnosis which conveniently voided the warranty. Outraged I decided to take it to Branhaven Chrysler Jeep where I purchased the car. I was sure the dealership that treated me so well when I was spending $22,000 buying the car would value my patronage and honor the warranty. But to my complete disappointment they also came back with the same $5,000 estimate and refused to honor the warranty. So at this point I now own a $22,000 disposable "Bic Lighter" that I may as well drive into a lake. Until last week I loved that car and all that Chrysler represented but after this experience I would find it impossible recommending that anyone purchase one of your vehicles. I'm hoping this email finds someone that understands the value of a "Satisfied Customer" but judging from the happenings of the last week I'm not sure that person exists within your company.

LXiSebring: Take this up directly with Chrysler customer service.Also, if your transmission was indeed damaged by something you hit on the road, and you can document that from the service department of your dealership, I am curious to see what excuse your auto insurance company would have if you submitted a claim as a comprehensive car insurance claim. Explain to the insurance company that you hit something on the road which damaged your transmission. Your dealer could be your friend in making this claim. I don't know any reason why the claim would not be paid unless the insurance company is able to make the claim that the transmission was NOT damaged by the road hazard. In which case you have a stronger case to get Chrysler to pay the cost. If you hit something on the road which caused the oil to leak out of the car engine your comprehensive would likely pay..why not a transmission?


Jim Wells writes

Questions Do You Have Production Numbers For 2003 ?

nope, someone here might

Is This What Chrysler Calls Taupe ?

As an interior color, I think so

Are Build Sheets Still Around ?

Havent seen them

Great Car, Lots Of Fun !!


Gary Waskewitch writes

I have a 1999 Chysler Sebring Coupe, the anti theft came on and after I shut it off the stereo sytem hasn't worked since. I would press the power button and the time comes on for a moment and would shut off. Is there a code I have to punch or what should I do?

LXiSebring: I'd start by checking the fuse boards. I'm not sure ifd the 99 follows the 95 design of two fuse boards, one under dash and one under hood. Someone here might know. Kimberly writes

I have owned a 2001 sebring for 7 weeks and it has 38,000 miles and the transmission has gone out. They are giving me the price of 5,500 dollars. Does this sound right? Where can I go to find a transmission on my own. The dealorship where I purchased the can and Chrysler are both saying they are not responsible. PLease help

Goodness, that's just BARELY over the 36000 miles. I would keep pestering Chrysler. $5500 seems very high. I would have guessed $3500. A transmission that fails at 38,000 miles has a latent defect Chrysler isnt owning up to. At minimum, Chrysler should pay PART of the cost OR the Dealer should be negotiating with you to swap out the car for something different after only 7 weeks. That's hardly a test drive. Keep after them! THe truth is, the Dealer cost of replacing the Tranny is WAY less than $5500, and they ought to be willing to negotiate that difference in a car swap out.


Dan Vespa writes

If you know of anyone in Ontario Canada looking to buy a 1997 Avenger ES, I have one for sale. Go to http://sideshow.sytes.net for info and pictures. Prices are in Cdn Funds and the car is in great shape!


LXiSebring: Thanks!


Diane writes

I have a 2001 Sebring LXi. I noticed that my hazard lights stopped working. When I went in for servicing at my Chrysler dealership, I was told that it would take 2 hours of diagnostics to figure out the problem (costing $180 alone). Would it make any difference if I brought my car into a Mitsubishi dealership since they may have more of a clue?

LXiSebring: That seems high for a diagnosis. My dealer does these types of things for $35. Get another dealer to take a look and give you a quote.


Dan writes

My name is Dan and I am going to replace the spark plugs to my 1997 Sebring LXi V6 (2.5L) (100,000 miles). My questions (2) are about the upper intake manifold that I have to remove. 1 - Do I have to change the gasket between the upper and lower intake manifolds? 2 - Do I really need to measure the torque when I am mounting back the upper intake manifold?

LXiSebring: Good question. I dont know and I have't been able to get up with Eric the last few weeks. His email address is dead at the moment.


JOE MCCUBBINS writes

I have a 98 Sebring LXi Tinted windows, racing muffler and 18 inch Daytons. I like your Web site.


Bill writes

Dave, I was reading your web page on Sebrings while searching for a low mile Lebaron or Sebring Convt. You asked why you saw the Sebrings in Louisiana. Our (Chrysler Corp) Zone Office was located there for a number of years. It was, and still is, a common practice to throw field personnel into whatever is a new product. It gets exposure to the dealerships and the public. We also had cars shipped to us for training events. Better known as ride and drives (or trash and crash) which are for the dealership personnel to attend for training purposes. That would be the reasons you saw them when and where you did. I'm not sure where you saw them, but the office at one time was at the Galleria before it moved to the northshore. A lot of guys stayed at whatever hotel they could get reservations at, and depending on where the meeting was the next morning.

LXiSebring: Interesting!!!!


John Seborowski writes

The pass. door's speaker is making a crackling sound like its blown out, I found all the screws I could to take the door off to check/replace it but the door still doesn't come off, do you or anyone know all the spots (hidden or not) for the screws? LXiSebring: I'm not sure about this


Cori writes

To: LXiSebring Hello, I found your site while frantically searching for information on checking the transmission fluid for my '97 Sebring LXI. I have been having some problems with what appears to be possibly the transmission...seems to not engage properly, also while going down the highway, the rpm's suddenly increase, I have noticed some fluctuation in get up and go, so to speak. So...I wanted to simply check my fluid level first. But cannot find my owners manual anywhere, and there isn't anything I have found with specifics for my car. I can't afford to waste alot of time, and I work 10-12 hours a day right now. And quite a bit of commuting! Before scheduling an appt. with my dealer, I wanted to simply do all I could first. I'm not a fraid of getting my hands dirty! If you or anyone could provide me with the info I need, I would greatly appreciate it. I will follow up with my history on how I became a Sebring owner. respectfully, Cori

LXiSebring: This sounds more likely computer module than fluid-related. YOu need a dealer to diagnose.


Geanie Jackson writes

I have a 2000 Sebring here is my problem driving on the highway or anywhere else and the car will just stall. I will click the off and start it up and it will turn over. This has happen to me several time. I took it to the shop and they found nothing wrong. The car stall again. Has anyone else had a problem like this. You can email at nisi_jackson@hotmail.com or nisi_jackson@yahoo.com

Thank you

LXiSebring: This could be electrical, or fuel system related or a combination. It sounds to me like the electrical system is momentarily shutting down the fuel injectors. These intermittent problems are tough to diagnose. I Think you nead a top service department to sort htis out. Does the check engine light ever come on?


Judy Gowan writes

I am having a really hard time finding a replacement grille for my son's 1997 Sebring LXi. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you so much, Judy

LXiSebring:Find a local auto recycling center that has computer links to other junk dealers.


Lenny Bogdanov writes

Just bought a 2003 Sebring using autotrader.com. Thinking about a intake mod......here she is

It's the 3.0l v6 sohc with 7 speaker infinity

Here's my baby... http://www.geocities.com/csmapsite/portland.jpg

or Click here


Mikala Rezac writes

hi my name is mikala and im about to buy a 1997 sebring and I decided to do a search to see if anyone has had any problems with theres and I came across your site....

have you had any problems with yours??

I saw this car sitting in the car lot today when I drove by and FELL IN LOVE!! I always rent sebrings when I go on trips just because they are by far the best car I have ever been in !

I just don't know a lot about them. if you could pass on any info I might need to know about them I would love it!!

thanks bunches

LXiSebring: My 95, now 10 years old, is going strong, with few problems other than battery replacement. But I drive few miles. Read this site and you will find out trouble spots and things to look for. On a 97, check the condition of the front fascia (easily torn, expensive to replace) brakes and steering. Check to see the transmission shifts ok. The engines seem pretty bulletproof. Ask for a Delco-eye battery at your Chrysler dealer.


S Hall writes

I have a 2001 Sebring coupe LXI and I have a major problem. I love your AOL site and I would like to become a member. I was transporting water in gallon containers on the floor of the front seat of my car. One of those container over turned on the passenger side in my car spilling all of its contents under the seat. Now my radio speakers are shorted out in both doors in the front. Will I have to replace that black box under the passenger seat? I have no idea what that black box under the seat is for. I tried to dry as much of the water as I could but proved very difficult to get to. What will be the ending result of this unfortunate accident? Please help.

Did you get the carpet under the seat dried out? I assune you sucked up the water with a shop vac. You might try a hair dryer (low heat) to dry the carpet out under the seat. Generally the box should be pretty well protected against moisture I would think. After all people carry snow on their shoes and car floors often get wet. If nothing odd happens and the box wasnt sitting underwater for a longer period of time. I would think the box would be ok, tho you could get a dealer to check it for you.


Freddy writes

Hi my name is Freddy and I've been experiencing a problem with my Chrysler Sebring LXi 99. Everytime I start the vehicle like when im about to pull up it gets boggy or jumpy when is tart and then while its driving it does that . i went to Shell and they told me that on cold drive the vehicle shifts ok. On hot drive they found out that it is stuck in second gear. I guess this is problem is whats making my check engine soon light come up. I've been going to different places to check how much it cost to rebuild but im not pretty sure if it's the transmission or some electrical problem with the computer. I wanna know if u guys have any idea what it might be so I dont have to pay extra on something that dd not needed to be fix. Well thanks for the time and id appreciate the help thanks once again.

LxiSebring: This is a problem that needs to be checked out at a really good dealer service department. I've heard too many stories about mechanics replacing entire transmissions when the problem was really with the computer, and a $3000 transmission replacement didn't do a thing to resolve the problem. Dealer service departments are expert at interpreting check engine light service codes. The fact that the engine light came on is one indication that the problem could be electrical/computer related not mechanical with the transmission, but you need a good service dept on this one, not a Shell station mechanic.


Lonnie writes

My timing belt has broke and I had a mechanic look at it and they fixed my timing belt and said that i might have 2 bent valves and i need to know how to fix it myself can you help me with this problem

LXiSebring: If you aren't up to replacing your own timing belts then I doubt you would want to try replacing bent valves, which is engine surgery at a higher level than a timing belt swapout. Save yourself some grief and take it to someone you trust to do this sort of work.


Brandon C writes

I have a 97' Sebring LXI and it's a great car! I currently have 176,000 miles on my car, and I have no problems at all with it. I bought it used with about 160,000 miles. I've had to replace my battery and brake pads. This is just general maintaince. No squeaking, rattling, wind noise, brake noise, CD problems, steering problems, anything... although it does have a lengthy turning radious! I have installed a Iowa CD player, and 4 sony explodes (two of which are in the back of the headrest) It sounds great. I couldn't ask for a better car! I am looking for performance parts if anyone has any links or parts for sell, I'd love to hear about them. I'm also looking for a tan leather driver side headrest. thanks. This is a great site! I'll try to send pictures of the speakers in the headrest if I can get any.


Lisa writes Good Morning, My name is Lisa O'Neal and I have recently purchased a 1999 Sebring Coupe. I absolutely love the car. I was searching the internet for as much information as I could find regarding the history of these cars and I found your website. The information was enlightening and I was glad I made the purchase. Is there a more recent update of your site? Dealing wit 99 models and up? Doing a very small amount of research while in the mist of buying this car, I found there was a Chrysler factory recall for the front suspension..(If I'm saying this correctly). Possibly some information you could look into and post on your website, I know I would appreciate it and probably allot of other fans of your website.

Sincerely, Lisa

LXiSebring: That recall has been discussed at length in the mailbag here as well as in the archives. The original sebring page has not been updated in recent years.


latrice writes

I had the thermostat changed recently, the car never reached the "H" but it like the 260 mark, I had the Flush on the radiator and I just have this problem and don't know what to do. I have to put the heat on in the car to keep It at a midlevel. Also I was wondering if there was a certain temp that the thermostat open when the car reach the point of HOTT? Some one HELP. I was thinking that its that cause mabe I have the thermostat that is a high temp before opening.

LXiSebring: I say you have a thermostat installed of the wrong temperature for your car. Did a dealer do this work?


Patrick writes

Are there any body kits for the 2001 Sebring LXi coupe V6 3.0L????????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If there are, PLEASE give me the number to the place or an email address!!!!

LXiSebring: Not that I am aware of


Josh Westgaard writes

Good afternoon, My name is Josh and I am interested in joining your club. I recently purchased a 1996 Chrysler Sebring LXi. I ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT! So could you send me whatever I need to fill out.

LXiSebring: You are in! We run a loose organization here :-)


Kirstin writes

I dont have a comment on sebrings i do rather have a couple questions...Do you know if and who makes Euro Lights, and/or Body Kits for a Chrysler Sebring LXI 1997...i am wanting to change the look of my car and would really like the lights and a body kit but can not find them anywhere...Any suggestions? I would appreciate it a lot thank you please email me back thanks

LXiSebring: I don't think there are any.


Michelle writes

HI My name is Michelle AKA "speed queen", I currently own a 2000 coupe which I love btu have a few minor probs with and I am sure you all do to. 1 is the facia aka spoiler which i accidently ran over a speed bump and it pulled my bumper off and broke my spoiler. =( would love to hear from you all.


Ashley writes

Hi, I bought a black 1998 LXi Coupe at a dealership in May 2003, or about a year ago. While the car looks great and I was originally very happy with it, there were a number of problems that surfaced in that time. While I've had the other stuff replaced, at this point I've one main issue:

On and off, and particularly on hills (paved roads with minimal/moderate elevation) or on turns, I hear atrocious scraping noises from the rear of the car. The sound is a mix between something turning slowly (like a lasso) "swoosh, swoosh" and between metal or rusty metal scraping. It sounds horrid and is loud.

The car has had its oil changed regularly, trans fluid changed recently, and has 75,000 miles at this time. What could this noise be?

-Ashley Smith

LXiSebring: possibilities: 1. Something rubbing against rear wheel-- clearances are tight 2. Loose exhaust system part 3. bad rear wheel bearing. Have dealer put up on lift and take a look.


Derrick Gray writes

Derrick - I have a 98 Sebring where I need to have the headlamp assembly replace due to cluodiness. Is there a way to clean out the assembly without paying a arm, leg, and both eyes for it.

LXiSebring: you came to the right place. Eric has a business cleaning those up.


Rodney writes

To: LXiSebring Trying to locate fuel filter on 1997 sebring Lxi and how difficult it would be to change it. And how can you be sure if your fuel pump has gone bad without dropping your tank first? Does it make noise in the start position for that quic second even if it is not operating?

LXiSebring: I forwarded this to Eric. I believe the fuel filter is in or on the gas tank.


Ogrady writes

To: LXiSebring I was driving my car it was low on gas it stalled .I thought I ran out of gas ;After getting 2 gallons in it I tryed to start it but it wouldn;t start up agin I had to tow it home Anyone might know what might be wrong now?

LXiSebring: could be a number of things--electrical or fuel system - related. Tough to diagnose w/o the car.


Teresa Merritt writes

I JUST lost my sunroof on the highway. Is this a common problem? Nobody I work with has EVER heard of this happening. I have a 1997 Sebring LXi and now need a new sunroof. Any idea where I can get one? PLEEEEEASE HELP!!!!

LXiSebring: FIRST call your car insurance company and see if this type of damage might be covered under your comprehensive insurance. It's very much like a road hazard type of event, and there is at least a chance that such damage would be covered. Your dealer can obviously repair the subroof, but some of the aftermarket sunroof places may know more about what needs to be done than the dealer. Those are your two options.


Amber writes

My name is Amber Shultz and I own a 1997 Chrysler Sebring LXi that I purchased used in April 2003. My e mail is oo7biz@msn.com


Ronnie writes

T Hi. My name is Ronnie. I bought a 1999 V6 Blue LXi 2 Dr. Coupe back in 2001 mainly for commuting 117 miles a day round trip. Today she has approx. 118,000 miles. Most of the time it's just me in the car. As a family of three who enjoys camping we spend the time in either the custom van or suburban. It surprises me to be getting the same mileage on the LXi as I do on the suburban. I only wished that I was aware of this site before. It would have helped in eliminating some concerns from time to time. Thank you for sharing. Ron.


LXiSebring: Thanks for thwe kind comments!!


Hector writes

I hope you could give me a clue about my car, I have a 1999 sebring lxi coupe with 75 000 miles, this is the first time it has something serious, the problem is wihth the transmission, the service engise light is on and the car does not run, it never gets the second gear just in runs in the first gear, however, it works sometimes, if a turn it on, it works, but after some time it come back againt to the trouble, I think it is just a sensor on the transmission or i dont know, i hope you have heard about this before, and if you know soething, please forward me with your advice, thanks erik, I really enjoy your website, bye...

LXiSebring: I think somehow the computer module that sits between the engine and transmission got messed up. Either it simply needs resetting or you need an entirely new module. Either way, you wioll need to get the dealer uinvolved in this one. The dealer can decode the reason why hte service engine light came on, which will provide an excellent clue as to what has gone wrong. Mark in Maryland writes

Got a question for you in regard to my 98 Sebring lxi coupe. I haven't had many problems with mine, having driven it 48,000 miles. Over the last few months, I've noticed a problem though. The engine makes a sound that gets louder and higher-pitched as I gradually press down on the pedal to increase speed. By the time I reach highway speed the sound is like a high-pitched hum that can be heard right along with the normal sound of the engine. As for as I can tell, this isn't affecting overall performance.

I asked a mechanic who has a radio show what he thought. He said it could be what he called "the serpentine belt tensioner". He said it could be loose or misadjusted, causing the sound in question. I remember my girlfriend having a similar thing happen with her Chrysler Cirrus a few years ago. Any ideas?

Thanks.

LXiSebring: The tensioner idea is an interesting one--I would check that first.


Darlene cheung writes

I hope someone can answer my car problem.....2 yrs ago I had a few overheating incidents, so the thermometer was replaced, the water pump was relaced and some hoses and whatever else to make the car work again. Now again my car is overheating again 2yrs later.

Well the mechanic is now at a lost as to why my car is overheating, all we know is that the coolent in the radiator and the reserve needs filling. The problem is that the coolant is disappearing, to god knows where. Under pressure testing there are no leaks, the water is not going in the oil b/c the oil comes out clean, and the water is not going into some other place of the engine cause its doesnt have black smoke coming out. Where in the engine could this coolant/water be going to? So aside from taking the car to a dealer and have them open up the engine (which I won't do), any other suggestions...help???

LXiSebring: I say you have a head gasket leak..perhaps a small one, but a leak nonetheless. Generally with overheating problems, you start with the least expensive parts and work up. If the cheap solutions don't resolve the problem then we are looking at more serious and costly repairs.

If you have a head gasket leak extra water in the cylinders goes out thru the tailpipe. Sometimes it shows up as a bit of steam but since water is a normal combustion product, this is often undetectable at all. Coolant is disappearing out the tailpipe--the classic head gasket leak problem if there aren't other obvious leaks. BLUE smoke is oil burning, BLACK smoke is an overly rich fuel/air mixture, not often seen any more ever on fuel injection cars.

You need to get the car to a dealer service department that you have real confidence in and has the necessary equipment to test. This is not something you want a non-dealer mechanic to try to diagnose, repair or replace. Head gasket replacement probably runs around $600 or so at a dealers.

Darlene writes

I think I finally figured it out, the radiator cap rubber seal was cracking off so now that its replaced it seems to be working okay. But if it starts overheating again I will have the gasket.


Lloyd-Braxton writes

I've been reading this for awhile and now that I am on my second Sebring I figure that I should join. My first sebring was a 1997 Silver Metallic LX that I bought used at 50k and drove to 111k. I loved that car. Just recently I traded up to a 2001 Ice Pearl LXI that I simply adore. That car is everything I wished my 97 LX could have been. Anyways, Eric, I have been sorry to hear about your problems with DiamlerChrysler and hope they do work out. All though I have never had any mechanical problems with my 97 and no so far with the 01, I hope I never have to go through what you are and experience that kind of behavior. At the same time, I have not been able to load asog.net and was wondering if there are any other resource for the 2001+ sebring. i want to do some mods and am having trouble finding help.

LXiSebring: www.asog.net Eric and I are it for Sebring coupes. I dont think asog is down permanently--atleast I haven't heard that, but periodically they have server problems, so keep trying.


Pat Page writes

I am from Canada and I have a 2000 Sebring LXi coupe and I love it. I have only had one problem with it in four years and that is in the summer when it gets really hot I get black glue that drips out of the doors. It is a tar kind of glue and when I take it to the dealer they clean it up and tell me that they don't know where it would be coming from. I was just wondering if anyone else has had this problem and what they did about it. Is there any way to get a list of the recalls for my car and where can I get them?

LXiSebring: I dont think the recalls are on-line but your dealer should be able to tell you. The problem is, there are also "stealth recalls--that is, stuff the dealer and Chrysler will fix for free or at a discount if customers compain, but exactly what's on that list at any point in time is hard to determine w/o having the problem.

The goo problem you describe with doors has occurred off and on for many Sebring model years. Apparently sometimes in assembly they use a little too much water sealant goo that subsequently drips out the door drain plugs. Unless it clogs the drain plugs entirely it's more of an annoyance than a serious problem. The problem is, cleaning it up from the inside of the door might involve several hours labor and the dealer is going to be reluctant to foot the bill. But ask them politely and see what happens. It's not as if Chrysler has never heard of this problem before. If you weant to clean this stuff off yourself on the outside of the door a soft cloth dampened with either bug and tar remover or liquid charcoal lighter (bug and tar remover is actually charcoal lighter or something very similar) will do the job nicely.


Craven writes

I have had numerous problems with my '95 Sebring LXi coupe, but not really serious ones. I have the leaky rims, sporadic anti-theft system (goes off when it wants to, not when the car's actually being broken into), replaced water pump, and then general maintenance stuff too. I have one recurring problem and one new one. The recurring problem: This seems to happen moreso when it rains alot. If my car sits through a rainy day and I try to drive it the next day, I can only get about 2 miles away from my home before it won't go anymore. What I mean is, when I try to accelerate, it's like the car is in neutral (without the revving noise). It's not stalled, it just won't go. The jury's still out on that one right now, so a suggestion would be appreciated. The new problem outweighs the other one. Now my car won't start at all. It's not the battery because everything else still works. The starter sounds like it's doing its job. My Dad said the spark plugs aren't getting "any juice". Perhaps some computer module? I love my car, she's my baby and she needs your help!

LXiSebring: Lets start with a brand new batttery. REplacing the battery shoulsd reset the computer. Sebrings behave very strangely if there are only slight battery problems--ie they turn over but don't start. I have had experience with this exact situation.


Michael T Higgs writes

I came across your site searching for info on sebrings. I just recently bought a 2002 LXi and I love it. I also have a 96 LXi with only 73k miles. Is there anyway for me to post an ad on the site to see if anyone out there is interested in buying it. I'm looking to get around $3200 obo. Please get back to me as soon as possible.


Marisa writes

After reading all these posts, I am very fortunate to have a car in good running condition (knock on wood). I bought my "99 Sebring (V6 2.5L) in 2000 and it currently has about 65,000 miles. I have really put no work into the car other than detailing the interior and exterior and it looks almost like new. I regularly change the oil every 3 months or 3,000 miles and have replaced the battery, brakes, and tires but that's pretty much the extent of routine maintenance that I've had to do. My only concern now is that it was at and is now over 60,000 miles and having to change the spark plugs, timing belt and fuel filter is quite costly. The dealerships around here (Pennsylvania) are horrible for service work, however, my car has an extended warranty and usually most non-routine problems they find are covered by it. My question is, however, is there any preventive mechanical work I can have done to ensure that it keeps running like new? Thanks much! Marisa

P.S. I strongly encourage your members to report their problems to the National Highway and Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) at www.nhtsa.dot.gov or 1-888-DASH-2-DOT because this is the only way we're going to get these recalled.


Richard writes

Hi, I have a 2000 Sebring LXI. I have had all the common problems with this car, but I love it none the less. It's a very sexy car and I actually love working on my car. I do have a question for the master mechanics of this website. I had a misfiring problem in my car earlier this year, it turned out whoever owned this vehicle before me put in champion plugs and it caused me some problems. Anyway I fixed this issue, however now (being about 3 months after fixing this) my car hesitates when I take off, almost like it's not getting enough gas or something. I am worried that it may be the injectors. How much are injectors, is this something that can be easily replaced by a network engineer with very little car experience? Are there any good books that I can read that will help me make my car more than a car, but a piece of art and a powerhouse?

Thank you so much for this site, I love it. How do I become a member?

Eric says...Do the obvious. wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter. if that doesn't work have it put on a Chrysler scan tool. $40 dealer fee

LXiSebring: You are a member!


Keith writes

Greetings, Some time back I had a "service engine soon" light come on. My brother and I checked for codes with his diagnostic tester and determined that I needed an EGR valve. For some reason or another I took the car to the dealer and they proceeded to tell me that I needed an EGR valve and an oxygen sensor. Well eventually I changed out the EGR valve and the warning light went out. I'm thinking, maybe I don't actually need the oxygen sensor now after all. Upon another check with the diagnostic equipment we received a P0403 code indicating EGR system failure or malfunction. So the question now is, What is EGR malfunction or failure? Do you have any clues as to what action I might try now, outside of back to the dealer for another $74 per hour guessing game? Is there something I could have missed in replacing the EGR valve? Any help you could give me here would be appreciated. Sincerely, Looking for an answer.

Eric says... Did you clear the codes? They will stay in memory for quite some time. No light, no problem. if this isn't the case, yes you will need to through it on the scan tool again.


Ed writes

I have a black 97 Sebring and I have started noticing the paint fading on the roof in a triangular pattern. Do you know if this is a common problem? I can see this triangular shape starting to appear on the truck lid also. Do you know if Chrysler has repainted others with this problem?

You can always ask, but not likely on a '97.


Jaime writes

Does my car have either or, and about how much do the parts cost. I am bringing it in today. I do not want to get taken for a ride. Have a Great Day,

LXiSebring: Dunno..what did YOU end up paying?


Eric writes

This is one of the best links I have ever found on the internet, scroll to the bottom and click on index.

http://www.knovel.com/knovel2/Toc.jsp?SpaceID=10110&BookID= 309&NodeID=1218689235


reddragon writes

Here are some pictures of my 1999 Sebring LXi SE Coupe Limited Edition with DOHC and 24 valve V6 (see photo above and on photo page) but I modified a few things myself which will be listed belowthat I hope to see on your site Mr.Tech. There were only 55 supercharged Sebrings, and they were made only in 1999. These were the distributed through-out United States. There was only 1 officially sent to my state by Daimler-Chrysler. I purchased it from the owner of the one of the largest chains of Chrysler dealers and other makes of vehicles. So I now own a Sebring unlike any other in this state, although it looks almost identical body wise but when you race it, it will smoke just about any car thanks to the super charger and my modifications.This car had only 9,700 miles on it when I purchased it and was and still is in MINT condition I mean PERFECT! Which you can see in the pictures although the pics were not easy to do with a webcam and a laptop because I don't have a digital camera yet.Here are the modifications I made listed below.

2. Dual air INTAKE, 1st one is the stock air intake, 2nd is the Carbon Fiber Super Sport hood scoop which I spent alot of time making a direct air intake and an air filter in the hood scoop to have as little air restriction as possible.

3. Special Nascar High Perfomance brakes (They light up red mhen u hit the brakes at high speeds).

4. Two 15 inch 500 watts per sub Custom made to my specifications Rockford Fosgate subs that are also custom made and fit perfectly in my trunk and the subs were made for me with gold foil dragon decals that go all around cone in a see through enclosure with a red dragon decal on the plexiglass and two 15 inch neon tubes that can light up red inside the enclosure with a flip of my switch inside. Also a Rockford Fosgate 1500 watt amp bolted to the back of the flip down back-seats that fold down to expose the trunk. The amp is electroplated gold, with a red vinyl dragon decal on it.

5. Also It can now go 0-60 in 3.16 seconds.

Thank you and I hope to see my car on your site, I think mine looks much better than the one on the 1999 sebing page right now. I also had a question for you. I have been looking everywhere for taillight covers for my Sebring. Can you help me and maybe find me an internet address where I can buy them at or something, because there is Sebring LXi's on the site that have them on their cars, thats why I sent you the pic of the back of my car. So can you PLEASE, help me? I really really want them but I cannot find them and the dealership is of no help when it comes to these things. Please email me back with some email address's where I can find them, cause u can ask ppl on there if someone has them u could ask where they got em. Thanks and I hope to hear from u soon and maybe even see mt car their in the section for 99's. Bye!

LXiSebring: 0-60 in 3.16 secs??? So far as I am aware there are no custom taillight manufacturers.


Paul writes

I did a search and found this website that recommended e-mailing you about any mechanical problems. So here is my problem, The car has died numerous times during intown driving lately. Once I started putting in fuel injector cleaner that stopped. Now this morning it won't start at all, just turns over and sputters ocasionally. We have tried to start it in the morning and at 5 tonite. My thoughts are possibly plugged up fuel filter,injectors or plugs. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Eric says.... It could be a cam or crank sensor.


speedlimited writes

Hello, I found your website while searching for infos on my '96 Sebring LXi. I hope you can help me. My '96 Sebring LXi recently failed smog due to OBD readiness test. I realized there's a recall on this problem so I took it to the dealer to have the computer reprogrammed. They said it failed to reprogram and the computer is not under waranty so I have to buy a new one for $750!!! Is this right? My car runs perfectly fine and I have to spend $750 for nothing?!?! Do you know if anyone else having this problem? I'm taking it to another dealer to try again but beside that can I do anything? Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Eric says... Do a general tune-up and take it to a place that has the OLD emission machine, they can diagnose the problem which is likely to be an oxygen sensor or something. Then you can have it reinspected.


Emerson writes

How are you? I got a 95 Sebring LXI last year. It is my dream car. I am so exciting to see there is one clube for Sebring. I really want to be part of this club. David, my 95 baby's front bumper was broken when I purchased it, because the front bumper of 97 looks better. So is it possible to use a 97 's front bumper to replace my 95.

Thanks a lot.

Good Luck!!

Emerson

LXiSebring: The bumper on 97 and later models are rated at 5 mph and considerably heavier htan on 95-96 models. I think it would be difficult to swap, but maybe not impossible for a good body shop. The customizers have done some strange things with Sebring front ends.

Eric says ... No, That's the year they changed the front end. BTW I can make those headlights look like new again for you.


Blue writes

I have a problem with my electronic volume control. Sometimes my stereo works fine. But most of the time I do not have any volume at all. I turn it up and I cannot get it to turn up at all, I can hear music very low so I know the system is working, if it does work on rare occasions it is only for a short time. I will turn it down sometimes when it works then it will not turn back up, or it just goes completely quiet. If you can help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks sylvia I do love my car, I just love my music too

LXiSebring: Dealers don't repair radios, only replace them. You have no choice but to take it to an aftermarket auto stereo repair shop.


James writes

I own a 1997 sebring w/ v-6. I have about 130,000 miles. about 12,000 miles ago, I noticed the fuel mileage was bad. I was adveraging about 250-260 miles per tank, when I was getting 300+ before. I had the plugs replaced filters and other items to help. I have been using premium fuel since day 1. prices are not like they were before. The dealer says everything is fine and nothing is off set, even the tires are ok. any clues??? the car is lagging the pep it had even though I know mileage is not like new. thanks

James

Eric says... Oxygen sensor or maybe a clogged catalytic converter.


Dipak Prasad writes

Hi, My name is Dipak and I have had a 96 Sebring LXi since 1999. She's getting up in the miles, at around 152000. Thank you for a very informative website.

My mechanic did find the fix for the Check Engine Light (I had seen all the variations of it, sporadically going on and off, coming on and staying on for a long time etc etc, with codes ranging from O2 sesnors to mistiming spark plugs). There's a specific valve in the fuel system that controls the air-fuel mixture[sorry, can't remember the name]. He found out that the valve was broken while replacing the fuel pump(fairly cheap part, no extra labor). Once he replaced that valve (about 35,000 miles ago) I haven't seen the Check Engine Light thing yet. Your readers may find this informative.

The past weekend I took the car to the shop because I was getting some noise from the front end while making turns. Turns out I had plays in the inner left and right Tie Rods and got them(as well as the outer) replaced. Is this normal? I had taken it for all the CV and ball joints recalls long time ago. I still heard the noise this morning, so I'll be taking the car back to the shop in the next few days. Usually I hear this noise while making sharp turns, and it sounds like a "rubbing" kind of noise.

Good luck, and keep up the good work,

LXiSebring: THanks for the check engine light tip. Tie rod wear depends on milage as well as typical road conditions. Lots of pot holes and high miles are both tough on tie rods.


Keith Bowen writes

Greetings, Some time back I had a "service engine soon" light come on. My brother and I checked for codes with his diagnostic tester and determined that I needed an EGR valve. For some reason or another I took the car to the dealer and they proceeded to tell me that I needed an EGR valve and an oxygen sensor. Well eventually I changed out the EGR valve and the warning light went out. I'm thinking, maybe I don't actually need the oxygen sensor now after all. Upon another check with the diagnostic equipment we received a P0403 code indicating EGR system failure or malfunction. So the question now is, What is EGR malfunction or failure? Do you have any clues as to what action I might try now, outside of back to the dealer for another $74 per hour guessing game? Is there something I could have missed in replacing the EGR valve? Any help you could give me here would be appreciated. Sincerely, Looking for an answer. Keith

LXiSebring: ERic is checking on this.


Richard Miller writes

Hi, I have a 2000 Sebring LXI. I have had all the common problems with this car, but I love it none the less. It's a very sexy car and I actually love working on my car. I do have a question for the master mechanics of this website. I had a misfiring problem in my car earlier this year, it turned out whoever owned this vehicle before me put in champion plugs and it caused me some problems. Anyway I fixed this issue, however now (being about 3 months after fixing this) my car hesitates when I take off, almost like it's not getting enough gas or something. I am worried that it may be the injectors. How much are injectors, is this something that can be easily replaced by a network engineer with very little car experience? Are there any good books that I can read that will help me make my car more than a car, but a piece of art and a powerhouse?

Thank you so much for this site, I love it. How do I become a member?

LXiSebring: You are now a member!!! Eric is checking on your problem. Kevin writes

Hi folks I happen to find your web site quite by accident one night. Once I saw how many grips and complaints you get, I thought I would share a happy experience. We own a 1998 Sebring LXi much like the one in the included photo. It has 32,300 miles on it and we have NEVER had one problem with it!! Change the oil, put gas in it and go!! The only modification to it is a K&N air filter, A Tornado Fuel Saver (yes it works), and we run 5w30 Valvoline DuraBlend with a Wix oil filter. Get in, turn the key and go!! I also have two very good friends and past co-workers who have the exact same car, and like me have had NO problems with it!! So There you have it. COMPLETELY happy owners!! Nice site you have. I found it informative, and I liked the pictures.

Kevin



Dipak Pat writes

Hi,

I'm searching for some answers as to why my 1998 Sebring LXi 's paint is wearing away down to the bare metal on the hood and the trunk of my car. Of course the warranty for the paint has expired, but I feel this not fair. I have taken excellant care of my car ,and it's quite interesting why only the hood and the trunk are worn down. Could you possible steer me in the right direction on who to contact?

Thank you,
Patrice o'neill

Eric says...Common, Chrysler even had some new cars repainted before sales. You will have to fight for this one. There should be some info in the net specific to this problem. You can always call the BBB.

LXiSebring: Really you don't have any options here except to get some bids from body shops to repaint your hood. Not sure if just your clear coat has failed leaving a splochy effect or you have acually lost the paint down to bare metal. Painting a hood and trunk is not that big a deal. Body shops do it every day. The biggest issue will be getting a paint match with the rest of the body, which has probably faded a bit. Some shops are better at matching than others. Try billing Chrysler for hte work and see what happens. If you try that you are probably better off at a dealer's body shop.


Brian Davis writes

While driving home from work, my Sebring tranny suddenly would not engage into any gear. While stopped it would engage into gear when it was revved up but it made a very loud squalling sound. I don't no what to do. I cant find any manuals on the tranny and not much on the car itself. I need this car for work . Ya know gas prices now.

If you can help or point me in the direction of help I would appreciate it.

Thanks

Brian

Eric says...Check the fliud..add nothing but Mopar 7176


Ted wrotes

YOUR SITE WAS VERY INFORMATIVE. I CAME UP WITH A FAULT CODE 12 BUT I DO CAN NOT FIND THAT IN MY MANUAL. COULD YOU TELL ME WHAT THIS MEANS. THANK YOU, TED

LXiSebring: I'm forwarding your note to Eric, who has the list.

Eric says... 12 means the battery was disconnected recently.


Matt writes

Hi, My name's Matt, and I happened to stumble upon your club page. I've owned my '02 Sebring LXi for about six months now, and I love it. It's all stock right now, but I was thinking of different upgrades and was looking for ideas. First off, I was thinking new tires and rims. Anyhow, I have one minor problem. My thermometer/compass is not working and I was hoping it would be something easy to fix like a fuse, but I couldn't find anything related in the fusebox. I'd hate to take it into the dealership to fix something simple.

LXiSebring:Unless the compass/thermometer runs on a flashlight battery (which is doubtful) it is conected to a fused circuit. The problem is if the fuse is bad there are other things on that circuit that would also be out. Maybe the connector to the compass is corroded or intermittent


Dave Green writes

Hey I just bought a 95 LXI, and im looking for euro lights. Do you have any idea how i can get them? Thanks for your help

LXiSebring: THe guys at www.asog.net keep track of aftermarket parts


Sam Ndiwe writes

My name is Sam and I have a 98 Chrysler sebring LXi. I love the car. Its got the works, Leather seats, sunroof, cd-tape deck. I've also added Rockford Fosgate HE subs and Amp. The only problem I'm having now is I'm having all sorts of warning lights come on. My check engine lights stays on. I've had it checked and first it was a misfire of the cylinders but I've had my spark plugs changed but the light is still on. Also my Anti lock lights just came on but I think its because i'm low on brake fluid. And just last week my A/C went out. Like nothing works: A/C, heater, defroster, NOTHING. I just got back from Iraq (I'm in the 82nd Airborne Division) and I'm just trying to get my ride back in shape. If anyone has any advice you can email me at nitemare36@hotmail.com. THanks I'll be putting pic on here later.

LXiSebring: Welcome back! Sounds like the AC problem could be a fuse or a loose/corroded connector.


Mildred writes

My daughter's sun roof will not open and we have looked at the fuse box and do not see a fuse for the roof. Please help.

Eric says this is a common problem, corrosion-related, and requires a dealer fix.


Aurelio Ayala writes

where can i find dual exhaust kit and custum side mirrors

LXisebring : The guys at www.asog.net keep good track of aftermarket parts


LANCE HURST writes

Hiya,

Thought I'd email you and ask to join your site. Just bought a '98 Sebring with 91,000 miles on it. Paid $4,000 cash at a VA dealer, unfortunately had to get it inspected in MD. Cost me another $1,300 as they failed the front struts, wiper blades, one tire, and one rim. Read about the rim problems so instead of spending $404 for one new rim(the previous owner left a receipt in the glovebox), I bought a new set of rims at Goodyear. They are American Racing series 95 and cost $121 per wheel. The tire(215-50-17 Eagle LS) cost $156. So I have a total of $5,300 in the car and it looks pretty good and as long as nothing else goes wrong, I think I am ahead of the game.

It is gold in color(cafe latte or whatever, LOL). Lots of people at my company actually thought it was brand new so thats a good thing.

I have a few questions:
1) Where can I go to replace the front lower spoiler? Looks like it is all one piece with the bumper. It's not too obvious that it's split in 2 but I would like to fix it.
2)Where can I get some performance parts for this car ? I would like to start off simple with a chip or something if that's available. Thanks in advance and you run a great site...it was the only one I could find with any decent info. Thanks Again,

Lance

LXiSebring:1. You need to go to a body shop in the fascia repair. Not chjeap to replace--I have heard numbers in the $700-$800 range. Try several body shops and see if they have better ides. It seems to me someone who works with fiberglass repairs could do a repair, but you need to hit the right boidy shop.

2. do you have a 4 or 6? There is a lot more stuff for the 4 because its basically the same engine used in the Neon R/T. Check www.asog.net guys as well.


marine writes

My Mother-in-law has a 99 Sebring Coupe and the speedometer sensor sent out is that a hard problem to fix or will it have to go to a shop to get fixed. Went to a Auto parts store and the codes were reading that the speedometer was not working and that the output sensor was malfunctioning so I was wondering if it is hard to change out the output sensor?

Eric says.... The sensors are located on the transmission by where the filler tube goes into the transmission. You can call it the transmission dipstick tube. There is a speed input and output sensor. I bet the cruise doesn't work either? Your dealer might have these in stock. I never replaced one but it looks simple enough. Look for the connectors and wires.


Josue Javier writes

I got a chrysler sebring 95, what can i do to make make car faster is there a turbo thing or a chip? please let me know

LXiSebring: See note above. Is this a 4 or a V6? THere is very little stuff for the V6.


Wet writes

Hello!! I"ve had my chrysler for 8 years now and it has 171,000 miles. The only major problem I keep running into is an oil leak, I've gotten a new transmission and that's it. As far as the oil leak is concerned, I dont know what to do with it, accept to keep taking to the mechanic until the problem is alleviated. Well just wanted to tell you a few things about my chrysler...xcks... I'll send a pic later

How do you take the headlight cover off?

LXisebring: Eric is the expert on that.


Elise writes

Hi...I have and odometer and a tac that only works once in a blue moon...all of a sudden it will come on after driving continuously for a while and then it will go off when uyou shut off the car...also the lights on the rear view mirror get funny and don't come on all the time...also I had water in the back seat once and they cleaned some drain...is that a regular maintainance thing??? thanks

LXiSebring: sounts like an intermittent/corroded connector somewhere but where I dunno. Sometimes the drain plugs get plugged with undercoating--I doubt you will have more problems.


Budrick writes

I have A 1998 Sebring LX, While driving the car it will cut off, and sometime it will not start back up, for An extended amount of time.

LXiSebring: Could be fuel related or electrical. Are you getting a spark when the car won't restart. If so the problem is likely fuel system/injector related. Almost imposible to diagnose w/o having the car.


Martin McCoy writes

I have the rods that cross over one another to create tension and control the trunk lid. They tend to spring and come loose. What is the proper orientation for these two rods, I would like to repair the situation but it's a bit of a puzzle that I am having trouble figuring out. Thanks for your help.

Also, I notice you have discussed repairing damage to the front facia due to parking blocks. My front bumper on the driver's side is actually ripped in a neat line but ripped nonetheless and this causes the front bumper to hang low and get snagged even more frequently. Is there a permanent fix to this situation? Thanks again.

LXiSebring: On your first question, I am not sure. Does anyone else know? If you can get to the underside of the fascia, you might be able to run a strip of the sticky backed aluminum tape that furnace contractors use to effect a repair. Several layers would make it stiffer.


Stephanie writes

Hello, Hi I'm Stephanie from TX and I just wanted to thank you for your website. I had a '95 Chrysler Sebring for 9 years and your website has helped me many of times. It was totaled last week because someone busted the truck, stole my stuff, and destroyed the car. Anyway I'll get to the point...I am now a happy owner of a 2004 Dodge Stratus (they have started looking like the Sebrings now) and I was wondering if you knew of any sites like yours that could graciously help me with my new car when I need it??

LXiSebring: try www.asog.net


Nathan writes

Hi my name is Nathan Jacobs. I am from danville IL. I've had this car for 2yrs and I love it. 98 Chrysler Sebring LXi

LXiSebring: See photo above and on photo page.


Heather writes

I have a 2001 Automatic transmission, Sebring with about 50,000Km's. I loved the car when I bought it and still enjoy it, but I have had problems with the cruise control, the heater and downshifting. I will set the cruise and speed as I travel down the highway, then the Cruise light will go out and will not come back on when the cruise button is depressed.

The car has to be stopped, turned off and restarted, then the cruise may work for maybe three hours or three minutes before it turns itself off again. This seems to happen more in the fall and winter. As well the heater will periodically stop pumping out heat and I have to turn the heat off and back on again to restore the heat in the car. All of these issues are most frustrating, the dealer has had the car back multiple times and so far has been unable to resolve either issue.

Is anyone else experiencing these issues? If so how have they been resolved?

LXiSebring: Eric is studying this.


Stephanie writes

Hey. very cool website. I pretty much did all of my research off your website before purchasing my '98 serbring about 2 weeks ago.. it has 88,000 miles on it but runs like a beauty. the only faulty things i have right now.. and hopefully will be the last.. :) i need a new mirror.. i know i saw a posting on ur site regarding the mirror being "fogged, or dirty looking" do u know if i can get one from the dealer or any website that may have them for less... and also.. my sunroof.... i just recently noticed that it leaks... (thanks for the late rain) if only it had rained before i bought the car, huh.. :) and i noticed there are several rust spots on the inside of the sunroof from where it has leaked times before?? does it just need a new seal?? do you know?? i know you guys aren't expert chrysler "mechanics" but you guys seem pretty knowledgeable on this vehicle.. i'd appreciate any info... again.. cool web site...i'm referring lots of people to check it out.. keep up the good work! stephanie, san antonio, TX

LXiSebring: Many dealers seem to have a lot of problems trying to repain sunroof leaks. YOu might want to have a reputable sunroof installation company check the seal and see what they would recommend. When the cars are made, the roof is whole and the sunroofs are installed in much the same way an aftermarket supplier would. On the mirrors the option is to check with local auto recycling centers (junk yards).


Rosario writes

My name is Rosario and I own a 1996 Sebring. I have a problem with my lower arm ball joints. I know of the recall for this part but do you know if it only concerns the plastic boot? Thank you for your time and consideration. Eric says ...The have to replace the whole lower control arm not just the ball joint.... Subj:sebring 96

LXiSebring: They MIGHT do the repairs IF the cause was a tear in hte boot.


James writes

Hey my name is James and I have a 1996 Chrysler Sebring LX and I have had so many problems ever since I bought the car. First my plugs and wires, no biggie. Then my clutch exploded (yes its a 5 speed) and then, my EGR valve was just replaced and while the dealership was looking into it, they noticed my battery was too high up for my car. It was burning a hole through my hood! So they told me to get a new battery. I have a 68 battery in there and they said try an 86 but they are both the same height! So they placed a piece of cardboard over the positive terminal and told me it should be fine until I get new battery. Well, after having the car for 21 hours after they fixed it the whole car decided to stop working while I was driving. When I popped the hood to see what was wrong, the positive terminal was fused to the bottom of my hood! So somewhere along the line the cardboard must have slipped and caused the battery to fuse itself to my hood. . the chassis, which is also where my alternator is grounded to. So I'm thinking because of all this my alternator is now shot? I took out my battery and had it tested and it was fine. . and also when I got my hood open and yanked on the wires going to the positive terminal I got enough electricity to roll up my windows, but when I tried to start the car, nothing. So either my alternator is shot or my wires are fried. . .any ideas?

LXiSebring: Sounds to me like you fried something. Only the small 26 group batteries fit--Wal Mart has them. It's best to get the battery at the dealers as they now have the green Eye ones that are proving to be a lot more reliable. Hard to diagnose electrical problems without being there!


Acme22 writes

I really need to buy some spray paint for my car. It would cost 1000 dollars to have a detailer do it because they sand and spray the whole thing... Could you please inform me where to buy the factory paint for a 98 chrysler sebring coupe (in beige/champagne color). Or the paint number so i can go somewhere to buy it? thanks

Any automotive specialty paint store should be able to help you and maky you up a spray can of paint in the right color. Look in the yellow pages under "automotive paint."


Michael writes

Hey there, My 99 Sebring has the Brake warning light coming on occasionally while driving. My parking brake is not up at any of these times. Any clue what it might be? Any direction would help. Thanks!!

Eric says... ...Low brake fluid...


chele writes

Hi Eric! thanks for taking the time to help out with our questions. I searched the site for my answer and it wasn't there...my right blinker has decided to stay blinking long after the blinker arm is down and the left blinker won't blink at all but the hazards work and all the lights on the outside are lit...not burned out...relay problem?...does the car have a fuse box...I appreciate the help!

Eric says ...Yes, under the hood and the steering column on the left side...


Priscilla writes

Can you tell me which engines are interchangeable with my 95 2.5 v6 Sebring?

Eric says... Contact Jasper engines for a newbie. You don't want to change to a different one due to the transmission. That 2.5 is a Mitsubishi engine used in the Dodge Avenger also and some other Chrysler products of that time period.

LXiSebrings: The engines used in the 95 and 96 V6 Avengers and Sebring Coupes are identical.


Fayth writes

I was wondering if you knew where I could get parts for my 01 LXi Online and a parts list.

LXiSebring: Not possible--you gotta see a dealer.


John writes

Thanks for the site. I am researching this car as I saw a great looking used one with 47,000 miles on it. The dealer is asking $5500 for it, but I am reading a lot of negative opinions in your group. Any advice or response would be appreciated. Thanks! John Reed

LXiSebring: Experiences vary a lot. I've had good luck with my '95


Eric writes

On the 95-96 models and some other years I have noticed there is a problem with the plastic headlights deteriorating thus appearing fogged, yellowish and or rough. I have found a way to recondition them to like new again. This can be done either on or off the car. I want to offer this service to people with the problem. I will be charging $55 per side as needed or $100 for both headlights. Consider this cheap if you have priced new ones. Your headlights will be clean,clear and like new again. I am in the Pittsburgh area 15665 If you want to make an appointment. You may also mail them to me if you choose. I will try to turn them around in a day or two. I do accept credit cards and cash through paypal.

LXiSebring: Mine are still clear tho I will keep a watch.


Tiffany writes

I have a 98 Sebring. My oil light comes on after I drive long distances and then flickers while I'm idling. It only does this once I've driven a long distance. While driving around town, it never comes on. A mechanic said I needed a EGR valve. Does this sound accurate.

LXiSebring: Eric is looking into this.



Frank McHarg writes

Hi there, I'd like to join in, since I recently became the very proud owner of a 1995 Sebring LX, with the 2.5 litre V6, 16" wheels (not the alloys, though), and factory spoiler. I have some nice pics that I'd be more than willing to share with the group. The car is an odd colour. The previous owner listed it as 'Iris', and in certain lighting conditions it looks grey with a hint of mauve, while at other times it appears simply dark grey. It really is a cool colour and shows off the cars sleek lines to perfection! Even though it is nigh-on ten years old, it still turns heads wherever I go. Even mine! I try and drive past store fronts that have highly reflective, or better yet, mirrored windows, just to get glimpse of myself driving the best looking car in town. Some people have mentioned about the ticking or knocking noise coming from the engine compartment, and find it a bit annoying. Mine does the same thing and I've been assured that it is a normal, if unfortunate byproduct of the emmissions control system. I wish it didn't do that, bit whattya gonna do? Crank up the tunes so you can't hear it, that's what! Speaking of, the first thing I did was have a Kenwood cd deck and speakers installed (not TOL, but better than OEM), and when I went to get back in I inadvettantly tripped the alarm. This is the first car I've ever owned with keyless entry and theft prevention, so there I was pushing buttons like mad on the remote trying to shut the thing off, when all of a sudden the car started up by itself! Unbeknownst to me (and, evidently, the guy who sold it to me) the car is also equipped with a remote starter. Sweet!

By the way, do you know if the colour 'Iris' was available on the 1995 Sebring? I'm almost positive that this is the original paint, but I thought I read somewhere on your website that the grey-iris paint job was a later addition. My ownership just lists the car as 'Grey'. Thanks for responding. I was thrilled to find your website. In my humble opinion, the Sebring was never as popular as it should have been, and a lot of people wasted their money on the likes of Mustangs, Camaros, etc. Oh well, I like the fact that their aren't that many around.

You mentioned a preference for unusual cars, and I do believe that Iris is an uncommon colour. Feel free to post one, some or all (or none, if they don't meet your requirements). Regardless, I enjoy looking at all the pretty cars! Plus some of them are giving me an idea of what a nice set of aluminium rims will look like on my ride.

LXiSebring: If that color was available at the factory, it's not in any of the '95 sales literature, so you have a very rare car indeed. THere was a pure dark gray in '95 but nothing with a mauve tone to it.


Mauck writes

To: LXiSebring i own a 98 sebring. the right dachboard speaker is blown. i was wondering if anyone could tell me how to replace it. any input would be appreciated. thanks

LXiSebring: Finding a suitable replacement speaker is tough. I know the '95-96 speakers are nearly impossible to find, but I'm not as certain about '98. The problem is that the speaker is actually a small full-range speaker, not just a tweeter. Check www.crutchfield.com to see what they list for the '98. Parts Express has some small full-range 2 inch speakers that could work.


Bunni writes

Mr.Tech, My name is Bunni and I purchased a 98 LXI 2 years ago. I have since then gotten regular oil changes, replaced the battery and transmission and gotten new tires. I have also had a major tune up and replaced the distributor,ignition wires and spark plugs.

The problem is that sometimes the car starts with no problems and sometimes it will crank but will not turn all the way over. This happens so much that the car literally only works 1/2 the time. I have taken it back to the dealership as well as Firestone at least 7-10 times and no one can locate the problem. If you let the car sit for a day or two before trying to start it again, then it starts. But if I go somewhere after starting it, I end up stranded because it goes back to not starting. It has been placed on the computer diagnostic machine each time it goes to the shop but no problems are found. I am so frsutrated that it is keeping me from even getting to work. I am so fed up with it that I am considering writing it off as a voluntary repo just to get it out of my hair. Please help me with any suggestions you have because my mechanic is just as boggled as I am! Please respond by email before you post it on the website. I had trouble finding it. Thank you.

Bunni

Eric says... 1 800 lemon law

1 888 lemon 11


Steve writes:

Hi there Mr. Tech

I have a 2001 Sebring LX sedan, 2.7V6. All servicing has been done by the dealer since new, but they have never cured the tranny problem I have.

The transmission downshifts from 4-3 with a clunk as I slow around 30mph or so, and sometimes the downshift from 2nd to 1st is even worse, slowing to a stop!!

How can I reset or re-program the tranny to be more civilized? If there is a procedure or a website that describes a way to do this, please let me know, I am technically competent !!

Thanks and warmest regards

Eric says... Did you get the updated software for the transmission? I'm sure you checked the fluid. If the update doesnt work it's probably mechanical. You could also disconnect the battery to erase the TCM but then any and all codes will be lost.


vampyres writes

Wheel rims are made of butter. Rail road tracks will deform them. Chrysler will not stand behind them. I have replaced a total of 8 since new in '98. Rear spoiler clear coat came off after 4 years. Needless to say, Chrysler won't talk about covering that either. Too bad I love this car so much. They should spend less time and money paying guys to think up names for paint colors (wildberry=maroon) and more on reliability.


KT7529 writes

Hello! I saw your website on line today and I thought it was pretty cool. I've been looking up info on Sebrings, bc I just got a brand new one two days ago. I'll be 21 in a couple days, my parents didn't want me to get a sebring bc they hate chryslers but I loved it! So I've just been looking up other peoples input about sebrings. Mine is a 2003 LXi , it has about 350 miles on it. Just wondered if there is anything I should do early to make sure it lasts longer! But I read the whole website so I got a few tips! So far I love it!


jmacinit writes

is this car a uni-body or does it have a chasey

LXiSebring: Unibody


Andy writes

Hi...Just saw your web site...I bought an '04 Sebring Coupe Limited last weekend and I love it I love the sunroof, the ride, overall comfort. have a question...the outdoor thermometer seems to be a few degrees to high....is there a way to re-calibrate it, or should I not waste my time? Thanks for all the info on the website..looking forward to checking back often! Hope you like the picture. Andy Brooklyn, NY


Andy writes

Hello, My name is Andy and I just bought a used 2001 Sebring LXI coupe with about 24,000 miles. I traded a 1997 Dodge Ram with a 14 inch lift and 40 in Mud tires for it one because the truck was a money pit and a gas hog ( 5mpg) and I felt that I would like to own a sports car. I dont really know anything about the car other than that for now it is stock. The color is a kind of blue purple also stock, with light tan leather with black trim. I am computer challenged and am not sure how to post pics. Anyway thanks for taking the time to read this.

LXiSebring: Send me a pic as an attachment and I will post it for you.


Steven writes

I'd like to join the Sebring mailing list. I'm interested in listening to other owner's experiences.



Mike writes

I came across your Sebring page and I too have a 2001 Sebring LXi Coupe. I love the car in so many ways except one:

I get constant flat tires. At least 5-6 a year for the last 3 years. They seem to occur most often when the temperature changes drastically over a few days. I check the air in them every week and usually only have to fill one or two a little. But then inevitably and inexplicably, I get a flat tire.

The bent rims may be an issue but when I've taken the car into tire places, they've told me the rims are fine. I've been told that it is because the lip on the rims is so slight that it is ridiculously easy for the tires to lose bead and that Chrysler has changed the rim design starting in 2002.

Do you know if any of that is true? I am tired of this and I believe I am going to submit a bill to Chrysler Financial upon the termination of my lease at the end of this year. I've had to replace two tires prematurely and each of those cost me $200.

LXiSebring: Some of the rims have been a real problem.


Tim writes

I purchased a 1997 sebring lx coupe for my daughter 4 days ago. After 2 days she suddenly got very loud creaking noises when she turns the steering wheel or hits bumps. I also get the noise when I push down on the car over the wheel weels. It is definetly in the suspension, but I don't know if it is springs, shocks, or just needs greasing. It became so loud all at once, I would think bad springs would happen gradually. Any ideas? Thanks,

Eric says... Well I know that there was a recall for the lower control arms with ball joints. Start there.


firman davis writes

1995 sebring lx....best car i've ever owned and getting better all the time....

LXiSebring: See Photo above and on Photo page


William Harrison writes

Hello, I just found your web-site and I've enjoyed browsing it - would you plesae add me to your membership?

Just got my Sebring ('04 Coupe Limited, Platinum Series), and so far I love it. I wish I'd thought about a Sebring earlier, but better late than never, eh? Anyhow, here's my information, as well as photo of my new pride & joy. Thanks...

LXiSebring: You are in the club! See photo on Photo page and above.


Randy writes

Hello LXi Sebring,

My compliments on your web page, a top notch job! I've been able to locate the referenced letters from your welcome page, but more information un changing sparkplugs would help. Scrolling through 7 years of archives is difficult and I might have missed one.

I believe I have a story that may interest your readers. Four months ago I bought my son a 1996 LXi coupe for $3500. The body is immaculate, like new. The lady I bought it from said she had it for four years with no problems, except it was stolen two years ago by joyriders. She was to pick up the insurance check on a Monday when the League City, TX police department called on Sunday to say it was found stuck in a ditch. No damage to the body but the front end was torn up. The insurance replaced the transmission, rack and pinion and some other stuff and returned the vehicle to her. Two years later I bought the car and she provided the history. Last month my son told me the car was overheating and sure enough it was leaking water from the right hand side of the car. Sounds like the water pump. On Chrysler products the pump is on the front of the transverse mounted engine and is run by the timing belt. Armed with a Chilton book and fortified by my daughter's boyfriend who is a real mechanic, I set out to replace the pump and save $615 at the same time.

Now it gets interesting. The transmission was leaking from the pan. As the engine had overheated this was not unreasonable and it was an easy fix. I dropped the 14 bolts, changed the filter and installed a new gasket. The first bolt did not torque to 10 ft lb; must be stripped - these things happen. It happened to 13 of the 14 bolts! When the tranny was rebuilt they must have used an impact wrench to install. I drilled out all the holes and installed Helicoils. Helicoil has changed their installation tool since I last used them (1979), the new one is junk! 11 coils went in well - the other two did not. So 12 out of 14 screws hold and the others torque to around 8 ft lb. There is moisture on the gasket. There was RTV on the pan when I removed it. If the moisture becomes a leak I'll replace the gasket with RTV, this is what Chilton recommends; perhaps your readers might have a recommendation - gasket or RTV.

That was interesting now the fun begins. To get at the water pump the timing belt and associated coverings must be removed. This requires supporting the engine and removing the right hand side engine mount. I'm reasonable handy with tools and I'm saving $615. When I go to remove the mounting bracket from the engine, I learn that instead of three bolts holding it on there is only one bolt.... and two studs! Apparently when the joyriders drove into the ditch they broke two of the tabs off the engine that the mounting bracket bolts insert into along with the transmission, rack and pinion steering, etc.. I'm guessing that the enterprising mechanics at the transmission shop took some threaded stock and welded it into place then used nuts to hold the bracket on. With only eight inches of clearance this means that the mount cannot come off, the timing belt cannot be removed and the water pump, remember the water pump?, cannot be replaced.

My future son-in-law, the real mechanic, concludes that the only way to do the job right is to cut the studs, grind them flush, then drill an tap. The transmission shop mechanics did a good job, the welds were first rate and they used stainless steel threaded stock - it seemed plausible. The first two weeks were spent with a Vermont American right handle drill attachment and numerous cut off carbide bits. Vermont American is famous for woodworking tools; the eight inches of clearance and stainless steel threaded stock soon turned the attachment into junk unable to drill a hole without 5mm of wobble. This last Friday my daughter's boyfriend surveyed the welders at the plant and we regrouped with an Oxy-Acetlene torch and a proper right angle pneumatic drill. If drilling was still ineffective, my future son-in-law, the real mechanic, was to "blow" the stainless steel out with the precision torch. Luckily the drill and the bits worked, my future son-in-law is a real mechanic when armed with the right tools. Who knows, maybe blowing out the stainless steel might have worked.

At last we can replace the water pump, it comes off easily and exposes a water inlet pipe that runs through the engine. The end of the pipe was rotted off and was the source of the leak. The original owners may not have changed the anti-freeze as often as they should have. The water pump wasn't bad, the pipe cost $65 and was 80 miles away. To replace the pipe I must disassemble the left side of the engine to remove the water manifold; no directions in Chiltons. I replaced the pipe, the pump anyway and the timing belt and buttoned it up. Somehow during the process the battery went bad. My son's previous car, still sitting in the driveway with a busted radiator, was a Mitsubishi Eclipse. Luckily they have the same battery.

Everything works! I can't even imagine what a shop would have charged when they found out that to change the water pump out they would have had to pull the engine! At any rate, I hope you found the story interesting, a honked-up car that's not Chrysler's fault, validation of my potential son-in-law - a real mechanic, and a happy ending.

LXiSebring: Quite a Story!!!


Aaron Banett writes

HI I just purchased a 98 LXI. Its loaded with everything. The guy didn't have a keyless remote. Did these cars come standard with keyless? If not how do I find out if it as it or not? THANKS ALLOT!!!!!! Aaron

LXiSebring: I believe all the LXi did, but your dealer will have to get you a remote for it.


Alice writes

H-E-L-P... I have been an avid Chrysler owner for 38years. I purchased my 1998 Sebring LXI new, even paid CASH for it which makes it worse!!! I am presently driving on 3 bent rims and already have had 11 replacements; add 18 flat tires (all of which have occured because of leakage around the rims) and you can pretty well figure out why I'm writing to you! I was given TWO Chrysler hearings on this problem; my fiance' (a Mettalurgist, specializing in Aluminum) had the wheels analyized and presented information stating the wheels do not have sufficient tensel strength to support the wheel/low profile tire combination and should be recalled. In essence, we are riding on the rim, not the tire ...there is NOTHING there to support the bumps in the road. Chrysler wanted to hear NON of this...they compensated me for 2 rims and a tire and sent me on my way. That was 2 1/2 years ago and since then I have had 5 more bent rims. My service manager said to get an attorney and sue because they have since stopped having hearings. WHAT CAN BE DONE?????????????? Frustrated in Ohio,

Eric says... In my opinion Chrysler made a mistake by using the 17" 50 series tire on this car. The best solution I have for you is to switch to a 205/55/16 size that was used on the earlier models. You could even use a 15" or even 195/70/14 which came standard on my 96' as long as the outer diameter of the tire is correct and the transmission is recalibrated you should be fine. Most folks have just decided to spend the $1000 to fix the problem and not buy another new Chrysler vehicle because Chrysler seems to think the consumers are to blame. Research this on the NHTSA web site and read the posts on our site. tirerack.com for wheels and tires.


Mke writes

I am surprised nobody is complaining about the uncomfortable sebring leather seats!!!!!! The tilt steering wheel is inconveniently located under the steering wheel & moves only a tiny bit the steering wheel will not raise above the dash! The steering wheel is terribly close to your knees! No room to put a seat cushion lumbar suppoort cushion since seat is curved & sits right under the steering wheel! Please let me know what you & your readers think.

LXiSebring: That I a problem, yes.


Norway writes

CAR:: 96 sebring lxi 2.5 Probelem:: trans is lunched Question:: would a trans from a same drivetrain Convertible work as a replacement, and if not, why? also what is the exact Trans ## forthe trans I am looking for Thank you very much

Eric says... NO, Look for Jasper engines and transmissions. They will have a local installer to do the job and it will be under warranty.


Dabo writes

i have a Sebring lxi in mint condition color silver midst chrome rims but they are the rims the factory rims but i got theme in chrome120,000 miles i have one question i am trying to get a wood leather sterring wheel can you give me any information how i could do that thanks

LXiSebring: I havent a clue but the guys at www.asog.net might know.


AJ Dominique writes

My name is AJ Dominique III. I have a '96 Sebring LXi. i bought it w/ 102 thousand miles about 2 years ago. Now it has about 137 thousand miles. i used it to go to school about 250 miles from home last year, and i go to school an hour and a half away now, so i log a lot of interstate miles on it. the car is white w/ a gray bottom. the front grille is not the black one, the girl who had it before me had scraped the front in up, so she got it replaced, so my grille is white instead of black. it has been in a couple

of wrecks. i idled into the back of a car waitin to get back on the highway from the interstate. so my grillie has a little crack in it, but the emblem has been knocked off completely. and i hit a telephone post one night, so the back part of the body, by the passenger side, has a small crumple spot. me and my dad pulled the dent out mostly, and i bought a new taillight for it, so it doesn't look bad there. but where it does look bad is that a chunk of the outer layer of plastic on the trunk came of. so where the keyhole is on the trunk, i have a chunk missin on the outside layer of it. so i'll probably have to get a new trunk lid eventually. i think one of my tire sensors is out, cause my anti-lock light comes on every now and then, and i think my shocks are worn b/c the wheels squeal every time i hit a bump, and turn out of a parkin space. despite all this, it does actually run pretty well. i beat my g/f in her mustang in a makeshift drag race. i have the v-6, 2.5 liter engine. i love the eclipse speakers in the back, but my tweaters in the front are blown. well, i'll send u some pictures soon, i need to find them, and i can take pics of the damaged spots in the back. thanks. ajd3


wdrake writes

Hello Mr. Tech, Greetings from Nashville, TN. I have been seriously car shopping for the past two months, and have narrowed it down to a handful of cars. One of the cars on my list is the Sebring, and yesterday I stopped in a dealership that has a 2003. I was in love! The girl in me is screaming, "oh, it's adorable, let's take it home!" But I was raised by a family full of men who either build em', race em', or are just fanatical about cars. So I pop the hood. "Hey buddy, there's a 4-cyl in there!" The sales rep goes on to tell me that although Chrysler was bought out by Mercedes, the engine is Mitsubishi. Most people would snub their nose to such an idea, but I own a Mitsu, and have for 8 years. She's a 94 Mirage with 170,000 miles on her, and with the exception of normal wear and tear replace/repair, has been an exceptional vehicle. I am very hard on my cars, and anything that can hold up this long has to be good.

So after all that... my question is...is that true, is that a Mitsu motor in there? If so... it is adorable... and it's coming home with me!

Thanks,

Eric says.... The educated consumer will prevail. Yes it's Mitsubishi as is most of the rest of the vehicle. Now understand that all I own are Chryslers and my Sebring has 145,000 on it. I will never own another new Chrysler after the purchase of our 2002 Dodge Stratus sedan. Something is going on at Chrysler these days and I don't like it. They still build the nicest cars on the planet money wise, but customer service is the worst, I was forced to take them to court over documented known quality issues that their personell chose to lie about and try to place blame on me. All I ask is that you shop around..drive an Accord coupe and a Toyota Solara before you make a decision. Your Sebring may be better or worse than the next...quality is a big issue at this time in the game. Don't be affraid to look on the internet. Try the NHTSA web site as to reported problems etc. Be careful and I hope you have good luck.

LXiSebring: aaaawww Eric,..my '95 is going strong! Not that excited about getting a new one tho.


dave writes

I have a stupid question....How do I "get to" my battery for replacement. I see the jump terminals but don't see where the battery is located. Obviously I know it's there somewhere. Help. Thanks

Eric says... Convert? There is an access panel in the inner fender in front of the left front wheel.


John writes


Need help. Mine is 96 LXi and made by Mitsubishi, and made full check and a lot of repair works at Chrysler dealer around 3 weeks ago.Since then, I drove around 300 miles, but still several items in OBDII are "not ready" - catalyst, evap, o2 sensor, egr so that smog test failed second time. Do you know drive cycle for 96 Sebring LXi? It may be same as Mitsubishi. My vehicle temporary license will expire soon unless I submit smog test cert, but I must my car OBDII to be ready. Thank you.

Eric says...What? Disconnect the battery to clear OBD2 codes. Cycle time is 59 starts.


Charles Q writes

I would like to become a member, and how do I go about it.

LXiSebring: You are in, but drop us a line about your Sebring


John writes

Mr Tech I have a question related to my 1996 Chrysler Sebring LXi (67,000 miles). In the past year I have had alot of what I consider major repairs performed on Sebring as follows: - Complete valve job, exhaust engine maniggfold, and engine gaskettes, spark plugs (including platnium), wires, changed the oil every 3,000 miles, and have used the top rated fuel (98) My question is this my car idles very roughly especially when the vehicle is in drive mode and has a severe loss of power ( I have to pretty much floor it to get it going), although once I get the speed up it goes OK. I was told it was an on board computer that was causing the idle and loss of power problem. Lastly I didn't have any problems until the dealer performed the valve job on my vehicle. My Sebring drives like a truck any help you can give to restore the car I used to be able to trust will greatly help.

Thanks

Eric says ...Do a compression check. If all is well then it could be a worn cam etc. Also check the IAC motor and o2 sensors.

Thanks for the advice Mr Tech I am going to take it to a shop in the morning and have them put it on a machine to see if any codes come up to help me. Another new symptom today baffled me even more, it almost felt as if the car was sputtering similiar to if maybe the transmission was having a hardtime between 35-55 miles per hour. Once I got it to about 60 it was fine. I have even considered maybe the timing belt. Sorry to bug you, but I am in the military overseas in Belgium and don't want to be stuck on the road, you know.


John writes

Need help. Mine is 96 LXi and made by Mitsubishi, and made full check and a lot of repair works at Chrysler dealer around 3 weeks ago.Since then, I drove around 300 miles, but still several items in OBDII are "not ready" - catalyst, evap, o2 sensor, egr so that smog test failed second time. Do you know drive cycle for 96 Sebring LXi? It may be same as Mitsubishi. My vehicle temporary license will expire soon unless I submit smog test cert, but I must my car OBDII to be ready. Thank you.

LXiSebring: Dunno--I'm checking with Eric



Kevin Knight writes

I just got my Sebring and I need to fix a few things before I can love mine as much as you guys do. Do you know of any sites that will tell me in detail how to do some of the Maintanice with out going out and buying a book. Thanks for your help Kevin

LXiSebring: Nope--unless you read the Archives here. Chilton's manuals are always good.


Kraig Councell writes

Sir, I am looking at purchasing a 2000 LXI for myself asking price $8,995 69,000mi. before I talk them down. I was wondering what sort of things i should look for and ask about on this car. Thanks for your help. Kraig

LXiSebring:the 2000 models are pretty good I think. By that time the annoying problems had been resolved. Check the condition of the front fachia/bumper as those are easily damaged and not cheap to replace. Find out if timing belts have been replaced as at that milage they should be. Also ask about brakes & any electrical problems.


Bill Adams writes

I have a 1999 Chrysler Sebring who's engine failed at 67,000 miles. The warranty company has declined coverage due to the claim that I didn't provide periodic oil changes. Not true. It seems Chrysler is famous for this.

It has the 2.5L not the 2.7L which I know has had oil sludge problems and the subject of somewhat of a cover-up by Chrysler.

But, is the 2.5L a Mitsubishi model, and does it have the same oil burn issues that the 2.7L has? Any detail would help, I need a defense!

Eric says...The 2.5 is a Mitsubishi engine. Good luck with Chrysler...I am in a lemon law case with them right now over our new Dodge Stratus. They lost arbitration and now we have to go to trial. It's been over a year and we're looking at another 6 months. They lost in my book because I'm done with them now. Never again.


Brandon writes

Hi! Is there anyway to a radiator flush on a 1996 sebring or do you have to have it boiled. I tried to find a radiator drain but couldn't find anything. Please let me know. Thanks, Brandon

Eric says...There is a valve at the bottom of the radiator. It is plastic and even has a drain hose on it.


New Mexico writes I have 1999 Sebring and we just bought it used without an owners manual. My husband put the key into the car alarm and now we can't get the alarm to go off. Every time we open the door the alarm goes off and I can't drive my car like this help. Please tell us how to cut the alarm off.

Usually putting the key in the door lock and turning it shuts the alarm off, so somehting else must be wrong. If it's just something you need to do your dealer should explain at no charge.


Ernie Mutschler writes

I just replaced my battery in my Chrysler Sebring. It has just reached 10,000 miles - the dealer replaced with no charge - will this be problem throughout the life of this car. Is it safe to take a long trip - Can Chrysler solve this problem?? Thanks for your time

LXiSebring: I havent had a problem in 2 1/2 years, but the most recent battery I got from the dealer has a green eye--must be a Delco.If your batteryu has a green eye you will likely be ok. The others go 2 years max, without warning and generally quit working all together at inopportune times. Part of the issue is that that the battery used is on the small side--26 group, but even so it's silly


John writes

Hello fellow Sebring owner,

My name is John, and I own a 2003 black Chrysler Sebring LXi 5 speed. I purchased it brand new last July for an amazing $18,500. There were four LXi 5 speed to chose from, however, the first, cranberry, was a demo and they did not want to discount it since it already had 7,000 miles on the odometer. It, like all other LXis I have seen, was loaded with every option (leather seating, 6 way power driver's seat, chrome roulette 17" wheels). The other two were white and light blue, that I simply did not want. They 'located' one more, however, which was black, WITHOUT leather, manual adjustable driver's seat, and silver sparkle 17" aluminum Roulette wheels. After 45 minutes, from a sticker of $24,100 down to $18,500, I purchased my new Chrysler.

Now I am certain there are other second generation Sebring owners who have a LXi with cloth interiors but I simply have yet to see one on a website, dealership, or parking lot. I am requesting any information on your mechanical site before just simply E-mailing a question. If you could please direct me, it would be greatly appreciated. I would, also, enjoy being part of your club, y'all obviously have good taste in your cars!

Hope to hear from you soon, John

LXiSebring: Of course, the standard LXi has cloth. I believe the major option package includes leather, a power set, and a sunroof.


Mike writes

i have a '99 LXi coupe in caffe latte - loaded - but in need of performance parts


Roberto has a 1998 Chrysler Sebring LXI, 88,000 Miles,and is in NYC, Queens


Daniel Latendresse writes

Hey there, Just writing in refernce to a letter from someone about there '97 not starting in the cold. I live in northern ontario canada and in the past 3 weeks it has been really cold. When I say cold I mean minus 40 celcius. My car starts no problem all they have to do is get a really good tune up done and make sure that there disrubtor cap is clean and dry. The timing may be out just a bit so they should get a timing light and double check it. Well hope that helps a bit.

Dan


Robert writes

David, I have a 1999 Sebring Lxi with 84000 mi on the 2.5L engine, It has now started to be dead after I cut it off and try to restart it, I mean no power to nothing , no lights, no radio, no power door locks nothing! At first I thought that it was the battery, so i replaced the battery with a new one. It started up and ran, I then shut off the engine and tried to restart, the entire car is dead again. What could be the problem? Could it be the factory theft deterent system? The check engine light isn't on. I could really use your input in this matter

Eric says...Most likley some alarm problem


Dan and Dana write

Hi Eric we have a problem with are 2002 Sebring LXI . Winter is upon us and once again when my wife goes and starts the car and lets it run in park she hoping she will be getting into a warm car in 10 t0 15 minutes this is not the case. Believe me when I tell you how hard it was to convince her to buy a American made Car . She owned a Suburu before. We had it worked on last year at the end of Winter and it was fine for a couple weeks then was not needed. Please can you offer a suggestion of what could be wrong.

Thankyou Happy New Year Dan and Dana

Eric says ... Well thermostat first, check the heat valve in the HVAC system..you did not indicate if the car warms up or if it just doesnt blow heat. A car wont blow heat if it cant select the heat portion of the HVAC unit. It is under warranty, drop it off. The Sebring believe it or not is mostly Mitsubishi.


mh writes

Found your page on the web and wonder whether or not I can trouble you with a question on a Sebring, as you're noted to be Mr. Tech Guy on the http://members.aol.com/silversebring/ownerse5.htm website. A friend has a Sebring with a problem that I haven't been able to figure out (and I started after a couple of five-star dealers threw up their hands and couldn't figure it out).

Here's her story: "If I step on the gas too fast it starts to rev alarmingly high and the RPM goes into the red zone if I take it up past 50. A nice slow acceleration (like, 0 to 60 in 90 seconds) keeps the car purring along happily, if lackadaisically. The mechanics are convinced that everything under the hood is fine and it's in fact the computer behind the dashboard that is all frelled up and for its own mysterious reasons booting the engine higher. " I've seen this happen and it's just as she describes. So -- new computer? Or are there other possible causes?

Eric says... Could be loads of things, a TPS sensor or transmission trouble even. Try a transmission tuneup with Chrysler ATF 7176 fluid...won't hurt. if it helps but doesnt fix you may have a torque convertor problem.


Darla writes

Hi! My name is Darla. My husband and I own a 98 Sebring Coupe. Love the car! had a few problems recently...looking forward to seeing what other owners have had

Thanks so much!
Darla


Walter Ripley writes

Just had front brake pad fall off, only 15000 miles? Any response woud help.

LXiSebring: This was a REPLACEMENT brake pad? Obviously something wasn't done right at whoever did the work. Dealer work?


Greg Stickel writes

Hello, I have a 97 sebring and the car runs well except when it is below approx. 35 degrees outside. It is very difficult(and sometimes impossible) to start until you get it inside to warm up. When it does start in the cold, it backfires and sputters around. I have had the distibuter and agv? valve replaced already, no help!!! Do you have any suggestions? Thanks,

Eric says...O2 sensor , temp sensor, crank sensor, plugs and wires


Dan and Dana write

We have a problem with are 2002 Sebring LXI . Winter is upon us and once again when my wife goes and starts the car and lets it run in park she hoping she will be getting into a warm car in 10 t0 15 minutes this is not the case. Believe me when I tell you how hard it was to convince her to buy a American made Car . She owned a Suburu before. We had it worked on last year at the end of Winter and it was fine for a couple weeks then was not needed. Please can you offer a suggestion of what could be wrong.

LXiSebring: I'm Checking with Eric


Alaina writes

woundering if you would know this question, two of my seat belts in my car come unlatch while driving is that chrysler responsibilty to fix or mine, it is 1996 sebring, with sunroof...Please get back to me..

LXiSebring: dunno, your dealer could tell you.


WJ Zima writes

I have lost one of the motors that move the driver's seat forward and back and the seat is in the furthest position back. How can I remove the seat so I can check the motors and replace the defective part?

LXiSebring: Good Question..I dunno...maybe someone here knows and wil contact you. Anyone had the seats out on their Sebring?


Jt writes

Hi, my name John Willis. I recently took my car over to united dodge Shreveport, to look at why my 96 sebring lxi was losing oil. well they ended up changing out my valve covers gasket. Well, I had to take it back because it was still losing oil, which was cover. my concern is the service tech now says I need valve covers because they are warp. Is it possible they could have tighten down on the covers and cause them to be warped. Since nothing was mention before.

LXiSebring:This is not a common problem. There is probably a torque spec for the valve cover screws and that could have been exceeded. But the bottom line is that you will need new valve covers irrespective. I would go ahead with the repairs and see if you can get reimbursed thru the Chrysler Regional office. That way the dealer will have to make the case that somehow the covers were bent before the gaskets were replaced. It will be interesting to see what that case is if they have one other than overtightening.


MaryPat writes

Hey! My name is MaryPat, and I'm 19 years old. I work full time and go to school at nights. I own a 1999 Chrysler Sebring LXi. It's a silver 2-door coupe with all the options (minus the heated seats) and has about 48K miles on it. I bought it this last summer and absouletly love the car. I would totally love to be a part of this internet club. The thing that amuses me the most about this car is that most people think it's my "mommy and daddy's car" and don't realize that it's mine... I do have a question though. This car has tons of options, but why do you think that they didn't put in a retractable antenna? I mean yeah, it does unscrew... but come on! And the other thing... recently my car has been doing something weird. When I got o start the thing it WANTS to turn over, but sometimes it can't. I replaced the fuel filter and that helped a little bit, but then it started to do it again and wouldn't start for a week straight. So of course I sent it to the shop, and wouldn't you know... it's starts just fine, the ENTIRE week I left it with them so they had me take it home (and thought I had an over-active imagination). He said the battery and charging system were fine, and that the fuel pump was fine as well. He mentioned that he read somewhere that it could have something to do with the security system... can you tell me anything about this? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks, and I look forward to hearing from you.

LXiSebring: Is the starter turning it over and not starting, or does the starter not turn over? If the latter, Sebring batteries can be flakey and I would replace it to be on the safe side. If the former, something else is clearly wrong. What I can't guess.


Javier Sanchez writes

Attached is a picture of my Sebring LXI. I purchased the car new in 1997. It has 155560 miles and still runs fine. I've made very little modifications to the car. Other than the new rims and muffler, the car is just like it was when I purchased it. I live in Georgia, in a small town called Flowery Branch. It is close to Road Atlanta. I work as a corner worker when they can use me. People still ask me if this car is new. And they are usually amazed when I tell them it's eight years old. I plan on purchasing a 2002 Sebring in the near future. I have fallen for the sleek style of that model. Unlike the 2003 and 2004 models, they are extremely fluid and curvy. Anyway, feel free to use my picture. The BMW, M3 in the picture is not mine. It belongs to a good friend who took these pictures. I love your site, and I check out the pictures of others peoples rides often. Keep up the good work.


LXiSebring: Always great to hear from a Sebring over with over 100,000 miles. Your car looks to be in great shape--like new condition.


NTassoni writes

Please,,,,,I am looking for a black grill insert for a 1997 LXI Sebring Coupe.. I am the origianl owner and have 30,000 miles on my car. UNFORTUNALTLY I hit a light pole in a parking lot and the plastic grill insert and Chrysler logo broke....otherwise my car has been GREAT...just replaced the tires and rims as the stock rims are totally garbage and since I live in Mich. they were bent the first winter season due to chuck holes. I have filled the tires weekly until this past week-end when I purchased new rims and tires. I would love to replace the plastic grill insert ASAP...any help would be greatly appreciated.. God's Peace & Happy New Year...

LXiSebring: Call around to your local junk yards/auto recycler. That should not be difficult to find.


Arminder writes

Hi, I am the owner of a 1998 Sebring Lxi with 125K miles. Recently, I have experience the following problem.

The car turns off at low speeds. At highway speeds, it runs fine, however when at a stoplight or turning into a parking spot, the car will die. Also, when the starting the car, it "misses"....could the car not be getting enough fuel?

Thanks for you help!

Eric says... Try the O2 sensor plugs and wires


Misty writes

I've found your site while doing a search in Google. Perhaps you could help me find instructions for reassembling my passenger mirror. My Sebring is wildberry in color, medium grey leather interior and looks identical to the one on your site with the exception of the spoiler attached to the back.

A shock to the casing caused my mirror to fall out. It is still attached to the wires but completely loose from the mirror frame. The mirror is motorized and I'm at a loss to see a way to snap it back in. It was dark this morning when it happened yet I could see a wire spring loaded ring which appeared to be what held it in place.

This seems like it would be such an easy to fix problem that I don't want to take it in to a shop and be charged hundreds of dollars for something that doesn't appear broken. I think the shock caused the mirror's holding ring to disengage. Any help or directions you might point me to would be very much appreciated. Thank-You for your time.

LXiSebring:If it just popped out a dealer should be able to pop it back in at nominal cost. However, if somehting is broken, a new mirror is not cheap unless you can find one at an auto recyclers.


hogsweat writes

I own a 97 sebring and recently had it on diagnostic ,and replaced plugs wires oxygen censor,air filter and still it misses when idling. However it runs great above an idle when throttle is applied.

Eric says ...Air idle control, fuel filter


Gerik writes

My 99 Chrysler Sebring LXi stalls without warning. It has about 74,000 miles on it. I had the fuel system cleaned, the air filter replaced, the fuel filter replaced and the valve that controls the mixture of gas sent to the engine (PVC valve or something like that) replaced. Its last major tune-up\transmission service was @ 60,000 miles. It seems like it is almost a power surge. My car'll just cut off and all the lights on my instument panel will illuminate, like when you first crank the car up. I took it to Discount Auto Parts and they said that my battery was good. My tachometer fluxuates right before it stalls. Sometimes it cranks right back up, sometimes it takes a while. Recently it stalled and when I tried to crank it up I got a grinding/scrapping noise (almost like that noise when you try to crank the car up when it's already cranked). When it stalled, I put the car in park, cut it off, and tried to crank it up and I got the noise. Also I couldn't get my car out of park. This particular scenario with the scrapping noise only happened once. There is no specific time when this stalling happens, but it does seem that if i continue to pump the gas, it'll return to normal. Could it be my alternator? Please tell me its not my tranny... If it is my tranny, could a simple flush and fluid replacement solve my problem? Or is it time for another tune-up? Please help!!!!

Thanks in advance,

Gerik Grant

Eric says ...You certainly were detailed but I can't help here, to many variables, spend the $40 and have Chrysler diagnose it on the scan tool...