Below is the 2001-02 model for comparison.
This Web site is devoted to providing information about Chrysler Sebring COUPE (NOT Convertible or Sedan owners). Information and photos of your car should be sent to the site operator at LXiSebring@aol.com I have only a limited amout of mechanical knowledge. Further, I know very little about aftermarket parts. The people who keep track of aftermarket parts are at www.asog.net
Here are some of the complexities--Mitsu has been doing engineering work for everything Chrysler/Dodge passenger car smaller than the 300. That includes Stratus, Sebring sedan & convertible, PT Cruiser and Neon. Also the 4 door Charger is floating around somewhere in all of this. Apparently these engineers are now all but employed by Daimler Chrysler as Daimler had allowed their small car engineering staff of their own to disappear--Mitsu was to have done all that engineering work. There was a big fight at Daimer whereby Jurgen Schrempp, the CEO, wanted to keep funding Mitsu and the Board wanted to quit giving them money. THe Board won. But that still left the problem of what to do with the cars under development by Mitsu engineers. This past week Mitsu announced they were trying to sell their North American operations, which largely consists of Diamond-Star Motors in Normal Illinois, where Sebring/Stratus coupes are built as well as Eclipses and Galants which used the same underpinnings. Meanwhile, all the current Sebring Converts and Stratus Sebring Sedans come off of what was known as the Chrysler P (think "cloud cars") car chassis assembled in Hermosillo Mexico-- a short distance across the Texas border where Chrysler has a big assembly plant. No doubt it's a lot cheaper to build cars in Hermosillo than in Normal and the Normal factory never was anywhere near running full production as Mitsu cars never did sell well. But you see how the coupes got lost in all of this. Meanwhile coupes arent exactly rising in sales relative to the other models and only a few soldier on--I'm not sure how long even Solara or Accord coupe are for this world. The Solara is built right here in Lexington, Kentucky, but I dont think it has sold very well either--the styling looks, well, "Asian". The previous model, more Sebring-like, looked better.
I'm not sure who would be inyterested in buying the Mitsu US assembly plant as the world isn't exactly short of production capacity and thats a relatively high cost operation compared with a Mexican site. This has turned into a Royal mess.
Chrysler COULD come up with a fold down hardtop version of the convertible. Convertibles that avoid the Canvas are all the rage and it wouldn't seem to me to be difficult to design a hardtop that is made of plastic not canvas and folds down. The really weird part is Chrysler now has the next generation coupe body all ready for production, except that it has had its top chopped off. Maybe one of those aftermarket places would make me a permanent top for a fee. As these kinds of remodeling things go it shouldn't be impossible or outrlandishly costly...surely easier than removing a top. It would certainly catch the attention of Sebring Coupe owners everywhere.
I also suspect there might be a Chrysler logo version of the Dodge Charger eventually, but more likely with 4 doors than 2 Yuck. By the way that was a big fight inside Dodge and in the end they came up with a design that has 4 doors but you have trouble seeing where the rear doors are. The purists wanted 2 but the bean counters said 2 wouldnt sell.
For those of you who are actually looking for the Sebring CONVERTIBLE, to my knowledge no one currently maintains a similar site for convertible owners. We don't deal with Sebring Convertibles or Sedans here because they are different cars built on different chasses in an entirely different plant. Sebring coupes are built by Mitsubishi employees based loosely on the Galant/Eclipse chassis (these cars are also built there). The Convertibles and Sedans are built on a Chrysler-designed "P" car chassis and assembled by Chrysler employees in Chrysler plants. Even the V6 used in the Coupe is different from the one used in sedans and convertibles. The 200 hp coupe engine in the 2001 is a high output 3.0 Mitsubishi V6. The 200 hp V6 used in the sedans andconvertibles is an all-Chrysler engine first used a couple years ago in the Intrigue/Concorde redesign. The coupe engine is used on the Eclipse and Galant as well.
The Avenger Sebring Owners Group (ASOG) Website
MOPAR
Chatroom
Note: Please e-mail Eric or me any Coupe problems you have and the
solutions, if
any.
The Official Chrysler web site
I hadn't stopped by the
Official Chrysler Website
(www.chrysler.com)
for quite awhile. I was amazed to see the many things that were
available. What caught my eye was that
you can order owner's manuals and factory service manuals directly off
of a site button. I checked the price for an owner's manual for my '95,
and it was a very reasonable $6. So if you need an owner's manual or
serbvice manual for your Sebring that is the place to go!
Also interesting was the fact that you could get a price quote on any Chrysler Corp vehicle. I gather this works somewhat like Vehix.com. and undoubtedly there is a connect to dealers in your area. This may not work out to be the final deal, but these sorts of things certainly help limit the search (and the pain of negotiating with greasy sales managers over a few dollars).
On a side note, a local dealer (Lexington KY) is advertizing new 2002 Sebring LXi coupes that have a sticker of 25K+ for 19,700. I gather this is one with all the regular LXi features, V6, and auto, but without the ABS, leather or the sun roof.
Leu writes
Hello and thank you for your time. I am a proud owner of a 1997 Chrysler Sebring Convertible but as you might already know there are not many after marker Accessory for our car's. i would like to put a hood scoop or a spoiler around the fender's. they make these parts for just about any car but the Sebring Convertible, i finally found a company that will start to make the parts for our car's, but only if i can get 15 or more other Sebring Convertible owner's to contact them in support of this. The more the better but I would like your help in this if you would. Please let me know what you think of this. here is the company information that you will need to contact them.
Pakfeifer Canada Products Chrysler Body Kits E-mail Address is info@Pakfeifer.Canada.com
Here is there Web site
http://www.pakfeifercanada.com/bodykits_chrysler.php
Or just go to a search engine and type in Pakfeifer Canada Products Chrysler Body Kits
again thank you for your time
here is a link to the supercharger kit for the 2.5 liter v-6. it gave me about 80 extra horsepower at the wheels but i had to add a transmission oil cooler. it was a pretty difficult installation. it worth the 4000 dollars. it comes with Blow-Off Valve, FMU fuel control, inline fuel pump, boost and a/f meter, silicone hoses, and SC to throttle body pipes. I used a k&n air filter.
link:http://www.boosthead.com/kitsbymake.html
you will need a custom exhaust. i made a cat back 2.5 in with a high flow cat and dual chrome plated mufflers. the charger is really hard on the transmission.
So there is a supercharger out there but I wouldnt expect Chrysler to do warranty work on a vehicle so modified. and your transmission may quickly end up as a heap of oil and metal filings on your garage floor! There are a limited number of aftermarket parts available. No, I dont know of any ground effects kits or clear taillights. THe guys at www.asog.net keep closer track of this stuff than I do. This is what I know so don't expect to learn any more by writing me.
If you want a custom spoiler painted in your body color they are about $245 at www.sportwing.com
If you want custom gauges the kits in various colors are about $107 at www.speedhut.com, but only for 95-2000 models (yet)
I have not purchased anything from any of these companies so this is not an endorsement of any of these but is just information for you.
If you are interested in trade-in values on Sebrings, check out The Kelly Blue Book SiteInteresting to note that the Chrysler website now has a link to the Kelly Blue Book site--how times change in the automobile business!
I promised you earlier that I would find hard evidence before I recommended any performance parts.I am sick of the hype and the 'magic products.' Here are some options.
SPARK PLUGS:
For the 4 cylinder NGK recommends the BKR6E-11 set at
0.050".
For the V-6 NGK recommends the PFR5G-11, set at 0.044" - NGK's
initial setting,
thus the "-11" or 1.1
mm.
If you like the idea of using Platinum plugs or have questions reguarding
them you can Email me
(Drawsoncad@aol.com)
The NGK engineer for Chrysler applications is
(knakayama@ngksparkplugs.com)
WAX & POLISH:
Want to try the absolutely best car polish system in the World? Zaino Bros. I have used these products for a long time and let me tell you nothing compares. Did I mention the owner Sal is a really nice guy and will answer all your questions?
PERMANENTLY SOLVING BRAKE PROBLEMS:
THESE PART NUMBERS FIT 1995-2000 Sebrings. Eric is in the process of getting the correct numbers for 2001-2002 Sebrings. Stay tuned. Here are Eric's recommended part numbers:
Front Axxis Pads........................23-484-01
Front Power Stop rotor/left side......JBR518SL
Front Power Stop rotor/right side....JBR518SR
Rear Axxis Pads.........................23-383-01
Rear Power Stop rotor/left side.......JBR772SL
Rear Power Stop rotor/right side.....JBR772SR
These are slotted rotors that will solve the warping problem so common on Sebrings/Avengers. Contact Ralph at Olympic tell him I sent you. He will set you up with a set of Powerstop SLOTTED rotors and Axxis metal master pads. I'm sure that they are available elsewhere but their prices and service is second to none. When you have them installed make sure that they replace the brake clips (Hardware) and lubricate ALL the contact points of the pad to the calipers. This will fix your problem.
It is helpful to think of the Eclipse as being built on a shortened Galant chassis rather than the Sebring coupe as a stretched Eclipse.
Chrysler, after almost completely severing ties with Mitsubishi just before the Damlier merger (The Sebring Coupe was the only really shared product by about '98 and Chrysler had non Mitsubishi-based V6s in their then-new sedans) now is very cozy with them again. Daimler Chrysler doesn't truly own Mitsubishi, but as I understand it, they have about 1/3 of the shares. Thats enough so Mitsubishi doesn't do anything now without checking first with DC headquarters in Germany. The DC/Mitsubishi partnership is similar to what GM has going on with Subaru and now GM used a bunch of Subaru parts in the new Pontiac Solstace--Bob Lutz's pet project at GM.
In the future I expect to see a new DC chassis common to both the P cars and the Galant derivatives and perhaps even eventually derivatives of the Mercedes C class--since all three are so similar in size and layout. Also, dont tell Mercedes owners, but there are cheaper Mercedes coming out that will share lots of parts and engineering with Chrysler & Mitsubishi, and Mercedes parts will be showing up on Chrysler and MItsubishi cars too. Expect luxury Chrysler cars to pull more and more engineering from Mercedes just as the new Lincoln model shares underpinnings with the S-Type Jaguar. Meanwhile, everyone knows that the new Jaguar X-Type is built on as Ford chassis widely used in Europe, but appearing in the US as the now-defunct Ford Contour/Mercury Mystique. This isn't all glued together yet, but thats what will happen. If Mercedes engineers a good new front suspension, why reinvent it and have to pay for additional engineering work at Chrysler or Mitsubishi, espcially if all the cars it could be used in have similar size and weight.
Plus, Mercedes is really looking to expand into the under $30,000 market world-wide, which means the "Not engineered in Germany" opposition will end up being muted and Germans will be happily buying cars that are mostly Chryslers & Mitsubishis but with the three-pointed star on the grille. The new Mercedes little hatchback just came out (Compressor) with (gasp!) cloth upholstery and in the mid 20s! I think the short wheelbase and hatchback design wont do very well in the US, however--the design is just too European for us. Hatchback cars have never been popular in the US regardless of who makes them. But a new Mercedes Coupe built with the overall size and other design parameters of a Sebring coupe and under $30,000. That is quite buildable out of the existing Mercedes/Chrysler/Mitsu parts bin and it could happen!
LXiSebring: According to the newspaper, the new bulbs on expensive cars are "high-theft" items.
John Tells me that he has a Web site called Auto Makes and Models http://www.auto-makesnmodels.com/ and he has a link to our site here. Stop by and say hello.
David
I own a 02 lxi coupe w/ 3.0 V6 (86857 miles) an im starting to feel hard or harder to turn the wheel, i live in idaho its around 10 F at night. when i go to start it about 10:30am it makes this loud hum, it stopes after a few min of running is my stering pump going out.... help
Eric says....Age and cold, mine has done that since it was new.
Im wondering if you can tell me how to remove the inside door panel of my sebring lxi 2000, I got all the screws out but it just wont move ,i dont want to forse it and end up breaking the panel ,, is there a trick to it,,, thanks jonathan
Eric says... There are clips around the perimeter. You need the exploded view from the service manual.
I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring LXI. Ive noticed the transmission shifts hard at times anywhere from 20 to 35 miles per hour. Just wandered if I should be concerned. The car is under warranty and have had it to the dealer, but they say they can't find anything wrong.
Eric says...Yeah..Don't get me started with Chrysler and their warranty stuff. bad subject. Try another dealer first. You did check the fluid right? Only ever add Chrysler fluid.
hey, how's it going? i just replaced a motor in a 02 sebring, and now it has no spark. it's a 2.7 motor. the flywheel looked good when we put it in and we replaced crank sensors with the old motor. the new motor is an 03 model and we had to change a few sensors but we used the original harness and what sensors weren't the same we swapped with the other motor's. so everything is like it was and the motor was running that was in it. we ran the codes on our computer and it came up with nothing. our computer is also limited to some newer models so we can't check some of the things we want to. we've tried everything except swapping out computers. but like i said we used the old harness and the old sensors. any help would be greatly appreciated.
LXiSebring: Eric is looking into this
Hi, I have a 2002 Sebring LXI. Love it.... BUT recently the heat goes out when idling (like at a red light). Heat resumes when you accelerate. Radiator is full and not leaking. I know that water is pumped through the heater core and air is passed across it for heat, so I am clueless what engine RPM has to do with this process. Am I taking it to a shop? Ever heard of this before? My thanks, Doug
Eric says... Sounds like a pressure problem. You have to get the system pressure tested. A leak down test. It;s cheap and the right place to start. Are you positive you are not loosing any antifreeze?
Dooug says... You're right. I had it fixed. A radiator hose had a slow leak, causing air to get into the heater core. Obviously, you know your stuff. Thanks, Doug
LXiSebring: The Tappet brothers have nothing on Eric!
I have a 98 Sebring LXi. I bought the car last year. When I got it, it had a little rattle under the hood. The guy said it was just probably something loose. After about a month or two it was getting worse. The rattle would come on during start-up and when I turned the A/C on. I took it to the dealer and it ended up being a cracked flex plate. During that time the car was also catching fire. Again I took it back and they could tell me nothing was wrong. So I took it to another dealership after it caught fire again and they said it was a bad fuel hose. Got it fixed and the problem was gone. Recently the passanger door handle fell off. Sounds like too much hassle and money to fix. Now for 2 easy questions for you. Sometimes when I go up a driveway, like into a parking lot, or over speed bumps, I hear and feel a slight clunk coming from the driver side wheel area. I'm guessing something's loose or maybe something bad under there. Next, the engine is squeeling and I'm going to change the main serpentine belt. I see on the tensioner there is a bolt on the top and one on the side. My question is, how do I move the tensioner to loosen the belt? Do I just put a wrench on it and push down? Thanks, Steve
Eric says... Mine clunks too. Could be a strut plate or a bushing. Have your lower control rods been replaced under recall? The bolt through the idler pulley keeps it in place. When you loosen that bolt it will be able to slide use the other longer bolt to slide it forward or back. Count the turns and you cant go wrong.
My Fianc‚e has a 98 Sebring LXI coupe with the v-6 and will not start. It will turn over normally but doesn't even whimper a bit to start.I was thinking it could be possibly the coil, fuel pump, or was wondering if they still had the resistor box. I generally work on cars myself as I enjoy it and I hate to pay mechanic rates. there are three things that are needed to run a spark, fuel, and compression. What would you recommend?
Eric says....Try to start it with starting fluid, see if it is a fuel problem first. My guess is a bad cam or crank sensor.
Donald says...Eric - It was a bad fuel pump, and the Haynes manual is wrong in where they say the fuel filter is located. It is not under the rear bumper cover as they state in their manual but in front of the passenger side rear wheel.
Eric says...Yep, remember there are 3 sebring flavors and they span over different years. One is a coupe one is a convertible one is a four door...all different. I usually tell people Dodge Avenger to eliminate the issue. Any your right about the filter. Expensive little bugger too.
recently the heat goes out when idling (like at a red light). Heat resumes when you accelerate. Radiator is full and not leaking. I know that water is pumped through the heater core and air is passed across it for heat, so I am clueless what engine RPM has to do with this process. Am I taking it to a shop? Ever heard of this before?
Eric says ....Sounds like a pressure problem. You have to get the system pressure tested. A leak down test. It;s cheap and the right place to start. Are you positive you are not loosing any antifreeze?
figured you would have the lifting points to remove a 2002 2 door 2.4liter engine from my sebring.....i do not see a good spot to hook the chains..thanks any info will be appreciated
Eric says.... I don't..thats the newer version. goto a book store and read the chilton manual. They will be in there.
Hi, I came across your site and am delighted! I NEED HELP. My 1998 Sebring DASH-INSTRUMENT lights went out. Every other thing on the car is fine. Can you tell me where to look to replace the bulb. The local mechanics will have a heyday with my wallet if I bring it in. HELP. Dave
Eric says... Get yourself a service manual. There is quite a bit of disassembly involved. You will need the exploded views in the book. You can see if the dealer will print you pictures from the service computer.
im sorry to bother you at this email address but my step son has a 1997 sebring and not alot of money and hes been having a problem 1st with his alarm system not working right i just ordered the owners manual from chrysler. but the alarm doesnt work even after changing the batteries. also for some reason now the car will startup then run and is driveable for approx. 5mins then stops. last night he left for work drove about 5 mins and it stopped, he left it there and went to work. my wife and i drove over started the car and then started home and then approx. 5 mins later it just quit it turns over fine and when i listen under the car i hear the fuel pump run momentary then stop. but the car wont start then when he got home from work several hours later it started fine. then a couple of hours later it started again fine. any ideas on what to check first. footnote before he came out here a shop replaced his distributer then his brain and supposedly it was ok because he drove from illionois to here in california. hes staying with us until he can get on his own financialy so any help would be really appreicated. i used to work on my own cars back in the 60s and 70s but now with all the computer stuff its kind of hard again thanks again in advance for any help you can give me.
Eric says .... check the cam and crank sensors
My twins just purchased 1997 Sebring LX. They only had it for five days and the check engine light has gone on. We have taken it to AUTOZONE (which offers FREE "check engine light" diagnostics) and they have informed us that the #2 oxygen sensor is bad. Can you send me information about where these sensors are located?? Thanks in advance! Marisela, Pima Arizona
Eric says ...There is one in the exhaust manifold,one before the catalytic converter,and one after. Any half witted mechanic would know that. You will need a special socket to remove it so not to damage the wires.
My daughter has a 1995 Chrysler Sebring. She needs a new stereo system and I am wondering if there is a certain size that fits this particular car. She doesn't want anything fancy. She has just been having trouble with her CDs getting stuck in the slot. She is away at college, so I don't have the car to look at and see if there are certain specifications. Any guidance you can give me would be appreciated.
Eric says... crutchfield.com Pioneer makes 2 nice units that fit the special din and a half slot. I went on eBay and bought a used factory one for myself. You have to know if it is the Infinity system or not. The original stereo will have the logo and Infinity name if it is.
I am considering purchasing a 1997 Sebring LXi (122,200 miles) with a transmission problem. I am told that the transmission will not shift out of 2nd gear ("limp home mode"). How can I determine it the problem requires a Minimal repair (Incorrect fluid, Solenoid pack, Input sensor/relay, etc) or a Major repair? Can I get error codes from the instrument panel that will help? Can the "limp home mode" mean that a Major repair is necessary? Thank you very much for any help that you can provide. Regards,
Eric says... key on,off,on,off,on engine light will flash example: flash,flash,flash.............flash,flash = mil code 32 Those transmissions are not very good to begin with. Jasper.com offers a warranted replacement you can check into. I'd pass on the car. unless it was say $1000
I have a 2004 Limited Coupe with 17" tires but would like to buy 15 or 16" wheels with snow tires because they are half the price. Can you tell me how to find a cross reference chart for rims?
I have a 98 Sebring LXi. I bought the car last year. When I got it, it had a little rattle under the hood. The guy said it was just probably something loose. After about a month or two it was getting worse. The rattle would come on during start-up and when I turned the A/C on. I took it to the dealer and it ended up being a cracked flex plate. During that time the car was also catching fire. Again I took it back and they could tell me nothing was wrong. So I took it to another dealership after it caught fire again and they said it was a bad fuel hose. Got it fixed and the problem was gone. Recently the passanger door handle fell off. Sounds like too much hassle and money to fix. Now for 2 easy questions for you. Sometimes when I go up a driveway, like into a parking lot, or over speed bumps, I hear and feel a slight clunk coming from the driver side wheel area. I'm guessing something's loose or maybe something bad under there. Next, the engine is squeeling and I'm going to change the main serpentine belt. I see on the tensioner there is a bolt on the top and one on the side. My question is, how do I move the tensioner to loosen the belt? Do I just put a wrench on it and push down?
LXiSebring: Eric is looking at this
Hi there I would like to join the Chrysler Sebring Club. I have a 2003 Ice blue Chrysler Sebring Coup. What other information should I send in to you? Thanks!!
LXiSebring: Tell us more about your car, equipment etc.
97 Sebring LXI with sport wheels. I recieved a letter saying if you had to replace your sport wheels we will reinburse you. I had to replace my wheels. I lost the letter, Has anyone recieved this letter.
LXiSebring: I haven't heard of this but it could be true. Anyone here?
Hi, I came across your site and am delighted! I NEED HELP. My 1998 Sebring DASH-INSTRUMENT lights went out. Every other thing on the car is fine. Can you tell me where to look to replace the bulb. The local mechanics will have a heyday with my wallet if I bring it in. HELP. Dave
LXiSebring: I htink there is a bigger problem here than a bulb. Sounds to me like a loose connection as there is more than one bulb and the dash lights wouldnt all go out if only one bulb is bad. THese things are impossible to diagnose w/o the car.
Hello there LXiSebring, great website. First off how do i go about joining? I don't have access to AOL.
Second I have a 1997 Sebring V6 and have an intermentant problem. I travel from Ohio to NJ quite often and have noticed that when I go through the MTs crossing PA in the winter the check engine light comes on and the car starts to "chug", when I come down to a lower elevation the light goes out and the "chugging" stops. This also doesn't happen while driving in OHIO or while I am in NJ. I took it to a shop to have the codes read, but they said there were no codes stored. The interesting part about this whole thing is that this only happens when i reach a high enough elevation where its snowing. I thought there might be something like a airtemp sensor, but can't seem to find out anything about it. Any and all advice you can give me will be of great help.
Thank you in advance for your time
bob
P.S. Could you also tell me if there is a bypass system for the heater? I get heat about two or three mins after the car starts but the bottom hose doesn't heat up till the car temp gage reaches what i believe
LXiSebring: Not sure, Eric is checking..
My twins just purchased 1997 Sebring LX. They only had it for five days and the check engine light has gone on. We have taken it to AUTOZONE (which offers FREE "check engine light" diagnostics) and they have informed us that the #2 oxygen sensor is bad. Can you send me information about where these sensors are located?? Thanks in advance! Marisela, Pima Arizona
LXiSebring: Eric is checking on this.
95 sebring LXI v-6 I bought mine about 4 years ago with 12,000 miles on it. It ran like a dream. Now it is the worst car I have ever owned at 40,000 miles. I owned a jeep before this car and I never had the kind of problems that I deal with (i ran 100,000 miles on that car). My engine's intake is clogged, my transmission had to be replaced (1/2 ago). Yes it is a ten year old car. Yes, it has alot of miles on it. The oil has literally burned the car to ashes. It is one of the worst cars I have ever owned. Check out the problems with this line. Its amazing they were able to market it as long as they did.
LXiSebring:Don't know what to say other than that my 95 Sebring is still running strong.
solicito precio de automovil sebring, yo soy de reynosa, tam, Mexico espero informacion. saludos. atte. Reyes Reyes G.
LXiSebring: I'll let the Spanish speakers respond to this one.
Hello, I came across your page and thought you might be able to help me. I have a 1997 Chrysler Sebring LXi coupe with the infinity system. I want to replace my door speakers, rear speakers, and head unit. I was told by Circuit City that I couldn't just put 6.5" full range speakers in the door because the factory amp acts as a crossover and will not send "highs" to those speaker locations (they told me that the amp only sends midrange to the doors, and sends the highs to the dash). They told me I should bypass the factory amp and power my front door speakers directly from the new head unit. Should I be concerned that the factory amp won't send highs to my door speakes, or not? Just trying to avoid running new speakers wire if its not required. Thanks in advance!!
LXiSebring: The Infinity sdtereo systems used in early Sebrings are more than a little weird. The dash speakers are near full-range too. What the stereo place is telling you is accurate, I think. Its easier to add a sub than to try to rebuild the factory system.
figured you would have the lifting points to remove a 2002 2 door 2.4liter engine from my sebring.....i do not see a good spot to hook the chains..thanks any info will be appreciated
LXiSebring: I'm not sure about this one.
Hi, I have a 2002 Sebring LXI. Love it.... BUT recently the heat goes out when idling (like at a red light). Heat resumes when you accelerate. Radiator is full and not leaking. I know that water is pumped through the heater core and air is passed across it for heat, so I am clueless what engine RPM has to do with this process. Am I taking it to a shop? Ever heard of this before? My thanks,
LXiSebring: THat's really odd-- I think you are due for a shop trip. Sounds like a heater switch problem to me.
HI, do you know what other mfr. wheels will fit my 16x6" 5 lug wheels, i.e. mitsubishi eclipse?? Thankyou and happy thanksgiving.
I have a feeling that the last gen Eclipse wheels should fit ok. If the bolt holes fit you need to keep within the same outside tire diameter and width. Check to see if the Mistsu wheels fit the tire size on your car currently.
i am completely stumped about a problem i have, ....just bought this brand new sebring, 2005, and the stinking horn goes off at any time by itself....i aksed the lot about it, and they said that the horn is actually made into the same little pouch that the airbag is in, which is made of a mylar material......and of course mylar expands and contracts in weather......so if my steering wheel gets cold, the horn blasts, (logically thinking), the lot has ordered me a new wheel cover, of course it is one of those never needed, hardly even manufactured parts, but won't the new wheel cover be the same material, which will give me the same problem, which indeed will solve absolutely nothing?....do you know of any recalls for this part, i have researched this on the net, and can hardly find any problems related to this issue, do you know of or have you heard of any such faulty, frumpy engineering........any answers or guidance would be greatly appreciated.....thanks jake from southern illinois....
If you have a security alarm on this, I would suspect the underhood seccurity aram switch. Does it go steady or off and on repeatedly. If it goes steady the dealer is on the track.
My girlfriend just aquired a 95 sebring lxi with the infinity stereo system. She asked me about replacing the speakers because at a fairly low volume level they start to distort. I have done a lot of stereo work in my own vehicles but only one had its own amp and i know that when i repleaced my 6x9's in the back(89 lincoln tc) it was neevr the same and i mean that in a bad way. Do i need a part that will change the amp's output or is it safe to replace the speakers? any advice you have on upgrading with aftermarket speakers will be appreciated.
Eric says ... crutchfield.com I used Infinity 6x9's for my NON Infinity system and am very pleased. Search under what fits my car, use Dodge Avenger.
My Fianc‚e has a 98 Sebring LXI coupe with the v-6 and will not start. It will turn over normally but doesn't even whimper a bit to start.I was thinking it could be possibly the coil, fuel pump, or was wondering if they still had the resistor box. I generally work on cars myself as I enjoy it and I hate to pay mechanic rates. there are three things that are needed to run a spark, fuel, and compression. What would you recommend?
Eric says...Try to start it with starting fluid, see if it is a fuel problem first. My guess is a bad cam or crank sensor.
I know you prefer to talk about the earlier versions but maybe you could help me. I have a 2001 Sebring with a 2.7. My air compressor will not engage. The freon charge is good. It has been intermittent for about a month. Sometimes the compressor runs, sometimes it would not. When it engages the air is nice and cold. I only have a Haynes book wiring print. It is very general. I would like to jumper the pressure switches and see if I can keep the compressor running. Do you have any suggestions or have access to a print for the air conditioning system? Thanks for any help!
Eric says...Yor on the right track, chances are it's the compressor relay. Smack it a few times and see if your compressor turns on. You can buy a service manual from Chrysler online.
Hi, dont know how old the site is that i got your address from but if you still deal with sebrings, my wife has a 01 sebring lxi and the dash lights that illuminate the speedometer and tach have stop working, occasionally the y will come on after an hour or so of driving, the dash light is the light green glow type that light up the entire circles not the one that just highlight the numbers. Any advice would be appreciated. Thx Matt
Eric says...You'll have to rip the dash out and clean the connections real good and reassemble. Get yourself a manual.
My name is Cindy Adams, and I own a 98 Sebring Coupe 2.5 V6. I'm having trouble starting her, and I was hoping you could help. When I try to start the engine, she sounds like she's turning over fine, ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- but doesn't want to catch. The problem is intermittent - sometimes she'll fire right up, sometimes she won't. It is getting worse, however, to the point that now I'm never sure if I get myself somewhere, will I able to get her started to get home. I replaced the front 3 spark plugs, and had no problems starting at all for a few weeks. Now though it takes 7 or 8 times before she'll engage. Occasionally, if I let it sit for 10 minutes and try again, she'll start on the second attempt, but not always. Sadly, I'm mighty strapped for cash at the moment, so taking it in to have it looked at is out of the question (tho I have no problems wrenching on anything myself, if I can). Do you have any suggestions? Friends have mentioned the distributor, but she runs fine after it starts, a possible fuel problem (I have noticed my gas mileage isn't at all what it used to be) or perhaps the starter relay or ignition coil. Any ideas? I'd be most appreciative for any advice you can give me !!! Thank you !!!
Eric says ....This is the third email about the problem this month. Replace the distributor cap and rotor. If that does not help, look into cam and crank sensors.
I just found your email on a Sebring coupe website. The problem is when the car is started it has a very loud squeaking coming out of the front right hand side of the engine compartment. I recently had the timing belt, water pump, and serpentine belt replaced and the noise still comes and goes. It sounds kind of like a ching, ching ching, The engine being cold or warm does not seem to matter. I also have a check engine light that appears to be an EGR valve this should be easy. I am also thinking a tune-up is in order since the idle is rough. It has about 85k on it. Any help would be great.
Eric says...That could be the a/c clutch, an idler pulley or a loose belt.when it happens turn the steering wheel and see if it gets worse, turn on the a/c etc. Try to pinpoint it.
Hello im from mexico I own a 99 sebring coupe v6 2.5l my car was ok until a Pair of months ago. First when I was driving sometimes it came down and didnt want to restart it Has to passed like 15 minutes and then it starts again, it happened like 1 Or 2 times per month then more closer but now my car start just a few Minutes and then it come down and I have to wait more time almost an hour so The mechanic didnt find any codes and I already change the fuel pump and the Distribuitor and still the same I dont know what it may be, my car has 2 yes 2 months with the mechanic and it is doing the same. Could you please tell me something that could be what else can I do?? Now they tell me that is the computer, do you think so? Im desperete by now cause i,m expending my money and I cant drive my car Yet.
Thank you very much I wait for your mail Please
Eric says...Crank or Cam sensor, could just be a bad connection.
I currently own a 1997 chrysler sebring lxi that is 8years old. The car only have 80,400 miles on it. Recently I have been having problems with the car I have replaced the timing belt, water pump. After doing that the check engine light came on, I found out that the car was misfiring and was told that it need new fuel injectors. I had all six fuel injectors replaced, I also had all of the o2sensors replaced. I just got my car back and my car doesn't seem to be running properly. The check engine light is still on and the car doesn't take off like it is suppose to. Can you please tell me what is going on. Thank you laurinda from new jersey
LXiSebring: Well if the check engine light is still coming on the computer is still generating an error code that should tell the service people exactly what is still wrong. You need to have a good dealer look at this instead of replacing parts one at a time to locate the fix, as the info to fix it properly is beuing generated by the check engine light. Sounds to me like you have a mechanic who is learning at your expense!
HI
I have a 97 Sebring LXI, and I love it....I lost my Alarm clicker and just bought a new one on Ebay, do you know how I can program it without going to the dealer?
LXiSebring: No, generally that is something the dealer only can do, But if you have the remote it shouldnt cost you much to get it programmed.
I see you have a great site dedicated to your car. I have the same one but dark green. I have it for 4.5 yrs and I like it a lot. Unfortunately, I'll have to sell it soon. I got married recently and will have a baby therefore we'll need a bigger 4-door car. I see you are very knowledgable on the Sebring subject and I wonder if you can help me locate someone who will be interested in buying my car. I really do not want to sell her to anyone just like that. I like it a lot. We've been together across Ontario and Quebec in Canada and from Chicago, Ill to Richmond, VA in the States. I had a great time with her and would prefer her future owner to take the same good care of her as I did.
What makes her unique is that she was made in FEB 1995 and is dark/deep green, so it looks like one fo the mystery Sebrings you saw in New Orleans, although the front grille is normal. Is it possible that somone may wnat to own her as a collector's item?
Here are some photos of my car:
Please let me know if you or someone you know is interested.
LXiSebring: That dark polo green was a standard color, but I believe only for the short 95 model year.
I THINK for 96 the green, still called Polo Green, took on a more blue-green cast.
iam looking to by a car for myself since my wife now has the Jeep i am seriously considering a sebring while i havr
done a little homework on this car i feel an owners club could provide me with more valuble insight. Like should
i get the coupe or the vert are the any defects with the vert what engine upgrades should consider etc. please
help!!!!!! i really like this car but i gotta convince the wife it is worth the buy please let me know something soon
thanks
LXiSebring: We know all about coupes here but very little about convertibles,
which are nearly an entirely different car.
Hello, my name is carlos gomez and i would like to be included in the pictures page of your website. As you can
see, i recently purchased this 1998 sebring lxi coupe. nothing amazing about it except this car has a kelly blue book
price of 7,000dls, the dealer wanted al least 5400dls for it and i got for a mere 3,000dls on ebay!!!!!!(same car,
dealer put it for auction on ebay). i did a complete check on this car before bidding on it, and i cant find nothing
wrong with it. no negative carfax, mechanically sound, pass a private mechanic inspection. i have to say i am more
than happy with my purchase and eventually i will post more pictures when i modifications are done to the car.
thank you very much for the opportunity to share our views on your website. I think it is one of the best ones i ever
seen around the web in a long time. Keep up the good work.
Sincerely,
Carlos Gomez
LXiSebring: In running this site, evbery once and a while someone sends me
a photo of a Sebring that just blows me away. Your's, the featured Sebring, (other photos
on the photo page) is it! Everything here just seems to come together in the finest example
of a truly collectible Sebring, The shimmering dark red metallic paint, the buttery
cream leather interior...this is the whole package.
The story about getting this vehicle through your dealer on ebay for only $3000
just adds to the interest. One day, probably sooner not later, people are going to
finally recognizethat these cars are worth way more money than as a used car.
I hope you are able to keep this car for a long long time. And to all my readers here
take a careful look at the photos. This car is really what earlier model Sebring
ownership is all about!
I just came across your site while looking for a solution to a problem I
have with my 2001 coupe. I bought the car new in June of 2001 for the
wife to drive. The car now has about 85000 miles on it and realy have
had no problems with it. Recently I started to drive it back and forth
to work and put on about 7 hundred miles a week. This morning when I
cranked it up to leave for work the Service Engine Soon light came on,
The car seems to be running fine. I'm pretty sure it's a sensor and not
something like no oil pressure. Is the dealer the only one who can read
the error codes?
I am also have the rattle in the engine compartment when I first start
the car, been going on about six months, and about a month ago I noticed
that the dash has three cracks in it running from the windshield to
about halfway back.
If you have any suggestions I would be happy to hear them.
LXiSebring: Eric is looking into this
Hey, im jeff.
Last week i was pulling out of my high school and got t-boned in my 97' dodge ram 1500.
that day i went to tha used car lot and bought a 98 sebring lxi FULLY loaded with tan leather automatic seats,
sunroof, alloy wheels, imfinity audio, power EVERYTHING, and a cool looking spoiler. I got it for 3,750, not
bad por such great condition. I have just started customizing my ride with cold air intake, performance module,
and cat back exhaust...(all bought off eBay)....and let me tell you, this thing not only handles awesomely(partially
due to my michelin performance tires) But it is FAST.... Just thaught you should know, lol. I'll be writing back
letting you know about more upgrades to come.
hey i got a 2002 sebring coupe lxi, the one wit the 3.0 v6, i was wondering
do u know where i could get a suppercharger for it or wat kind of mitsubishi
engine it is so i can look for cheaper parts
LXiSebring: THat's tricky. There are more aftermarket parts for the 4 than th V6
as that engine has been modded more.
T
I have a '01 Sebring, 106 thousand miles. The trouble is that the Heating element in the 02 sensors keep flashing
the " service engine soon light, number 135 and 141. Could it be the PCM or just bad sensors in the car. Any help
would really be nice
LXiSEbring: Commonly the sensors themselves go bad.
My front drivers side floor is always wet whether it is rain or shine! What
could be causing this? Is it possibly the floor panel?
LXiSebring: Sometimes this is a crack or hole in the floor, and all it needs is a little waterproof
undercoating to seal. Get under the car and see if you can see the spot that gets wet. JUst a smal hole can create
a big wet spot on the carpet. SEe if you see water dripping down when the car is sitting in the rain.
Another possibility is that the door drains are clogged. Check the underside of the edge of the door.
Hello,
Does anybody know what has happened to the ASOG site. I have not been able to get it for weeks. Seems the site
is dead.
Any news you might know of would be appreciated.
LXiSebring: Dunno. They have been off for a period of time before, then returned.
Hi,
Just took a chance on emailing you about a problem we have just noticed on our 2000 ---Actually we haven't had
any major problems with the car in 5 years. There is a rattle sound under the hood when the car first starts up--then
goes away after it runs a bit..The service dept couldn't figure out where it was coming from--hard to detect exact
spot with the engine going and all seems good mechanically..Nothing lights up or shows up when they put it on
diagnostic test..So they said it just came with the car ?? Yeah right!
Ok now recently we noted some (what I assume to be rain spots on the spoiler only--nothing on anything else) We
tried to use a rubbing compound on them and it didn't work very well..You can not feel them by touching, but can
see them in the light--shows up lighter than the silver color. There is quite a few and they are definitely spots of
some kind.. We wondered if buffing would help rid of them..Any ideas? We would appreciate your help--hopefully
without costing us $$ at dealer. Thank you.
LXiSebring: THat's a cleacoat damage problem, brough on probably by air pollution or acid rain.
I own a 2000 sebring lxi, with 110k miles. Apart from normal wear and tear,
and one major problem with the transmission (in 2002), I haven't really had
any complaints since I bought it in 2001.
Recently, I had trouble starting the car. The "service engine soon" light
came on, so I took it in to the shop. After reading the codes that read
"misfire" I had a complete tune-up. New plugs, wires, dist. cap_the whole
nine. After the tune-up the car began to constantly stall/die while I'm
driving and sitting at stoplights. I took the car to the dealership and
the mechanics told me that there was a vacuum hose leaking, that they would
be able to get to in a few days, and since the "leak" is under the intake -
it would take several hours (of labor) to get to it. Then a salesperson
offered to show me around, and perhaps get me into a new car. (I DON"T WANT
A NEW CAR - I JUST WANT MINE TO WORK.)
Eric says...
Could be a dirty/faulty idle air control motor. Its easty enough to take out
and clean. Get yourself a manual.
I just bought a used 2004 Sebring coupe and it has only one keyhole, the one on the driver's door. I don't know
if this is a unique model or standard. Please tell me about the different models offered that year. Thanks
Bill
LXiSebring: I'm not sure either, maybe other 2004 owners can tell us.
I need help i'm from Mexico and I need the airbag driver side,,,, can you
tell where can I found it
LXiSebring: Tough to find except at a dealers--not sure I would want an airbag from a wrecked car. Maybe
it didn't blow because of a mechanical flaw.
Hi, I'm looking to purchase a 1996 Sebring. I have found a nice one. Red, I really like the car. But both of the
front seat belts are locked in. They will not release. I can't put them on. I know the car is not inspectable like this.
Neither one of the belts will release from the seat. Can anyone help me with this. I'd love to buy the car but if this
is a very expensive fix I may have to rethink this vehicle. I also have a funny feeling that this may be the reason
the guy is selling.
LXiSebring: Not sure how expensive to fix. Worst case is that you need new belts.
How do i get into the cluster to change a tail light in my 2001 chrysler sebring coupe? I popped the trunk, removed
the cloth lining, and don't know where to go from there. The car didn't come with an owners manual.
Eric says....There are sockets, look for wires. You can turn them and pull the socket out
with the bulb.
We bought this car fully loaded new in "98" thought it would be a good vehicle for my wife. `It has been a pretty
good car with no major mechanical problems. The only "REAL" problem is with the outside door handles, they
BREAK from normal use! In 2002 the driver side broke just from opening the door. Then about 6 months later the
passenger side broke. They are an expensive repair because dealer won't sell them without paint, about $600 per
door. After we fixed those the driver side broke again this year in April! Does anyone know of an aftermarket
manufacturer that makes metal replacements? Maybe similar to the replacement handle assemblies made for trucks,
or used by customizers? I am disappointed with the quality of the plastic OEM exterior door handles. Also this car
can really eat up tires and brakes. I have gone through 5 sets of the Goodyears in 135000 miles. and about 7 sets
of front pads, poor performance in my opinion. Wife loves the car, it drives good, I don't like the eminence. Oh
the inside mirror electrical connection is always coming loose making the compass turn on & off and can't use map
lights. At $299 I think its a bit much for replacement.
LXiSebring: This has not been a common problem at all, but see below. THe INTERIOR handles sometimes break
but not the exterior ones.
My son managed to break the handle off of the exterior drivers-side
door...the lever piece with 2 "arms" that connect somewhere on the inside:
1)Where can I purchase a replacement handle? (there's no way to fix this
one, both arms are broken)
2)Can the new piece install easily, or is this beyond removing the interior
door panel to snap in the new handle?
Any information you have is appreciated!
Thanks, Heidi
Eric Says...I have heard this a bunch of times but never had to do it. It will need
painted, I know that. Maybe someone who has done this can help you.
LXiSebring: See prior letter.
I have a problem with my 2001 Sebring LXI, the Dashboard lights,
are Crazy, I turn on my lights and the dashboard does not light up for
usually about 15 minutes, once there on the dimmer switch works, and
everything is fine, and then I will turn my car off and go into a store
or something come right back out turn on my lights and the same thing I
have to wait 10-15 minutes before they illuminate, and then sometimes I
turn on my car and they work fine, I don't know what to do , and I am
afraid that I am going to get ripped off if I take it into the
dealership, but no one can put there finger on what the problem is..:??
?Can you help please??
LXiSebring: Generally this is a wiring harnass problem with something loose or working only off and on
No real way to diagnose from afar. May be cheap or expensive to fix.
I work for Jagorda Interviewing Services in San Diego and we're inviting
Sebring owners to a 2-hour focus group in San Diego on Sat., Nov. 12th that
pays $100 cash for participation. We need men and women who are Hispanic or
African-American between the ages of 18 and 54. They should be residents of
San Diego County.
To see if they meet the criteria to participate, they should call us
toll-free at 1-888-569-0424 during working hours or leave a message on the
machine and we'll call them back.
I hope I'm not abusing the forum by posting this, but we could use the help
and the participants would be well paid for their time.
This is open to Sebring convertible, sedan and coupe owners as well.
Please let your friends know, and if this can be posted more publicly please
do that.
LXiSebring: Anyone in the San Diego area who meets these requirements?"
Do you know where I can buy a 98 Sebring Coupe front bumper cover besides
going to the dealer ?
LXiSebring: The other option is a auto parts recycler (junk car dealer).
I own a 2000 sebring lxi, with 110k miles. Apart from normal wear and tear, and one major problem with the
transmission (in 2002), I haven't really had any complaints since I bought it in 2001.Recently, I had trouble starting
the car. The "service engine soon" light came on, so I took it in to the shop. After reading the codes that read
"misfire" I had a complete tune-up. New plugs, wires, dist. cap_the whole nine.>After the tune-up the car began
to constantly stall/die while I'm driving and sitting at stoplights.I took the car to the dealership and the mechanics
told me that there was a vacuum hose leaking, that they would be able to get to in a few days, and since the "leak"
is under the intake - it would take several hours (of labor) to get to it. Then a salesperson offered to show
me around, and perhaps get me into a new car. (I DON"T WANT A NEW CAR - I JUST WANT MINE TO
WORK.)I thought all this sounded fishy, so I got a second opinion. Come to find out, THERE IS NO VACUUM
HOSE UNDER THE INTAKE. I had a mechanic take the intake off, and check all connections - and also watch
for the phantom vacuum hose. Although I cannot seem to find the problem myself, I'm quite suspicious of the
mechanics at the dealership - they seem to be more interested in showing me the car lot and offering off-the-cuff
diagnosis, than finding the real problem. I'm so frustrated! Do you have any idea where I should begin? Has anyone
else had these same issues?
About 10 months ago, I bought a fully loaded 2001 Sebring Lxi for $9,000 after trade in on my old Jeep. It had
30,000 miles, but I've ran it up to 78,000 mi. My husband says that I need to do preventive maintenance on it.
But, I have had NO trouble with anything. It runs perfect. I've changed the oil twice. Is there anything importaint
that I should plan to do?
My passenger side fog lamp burned out. Is there a high performance, super bright, spot light style bulb that I could
replace it with?
LXiSebring: Time for the 60,000 mile service. See owners manual. Others here know more about fog lights than
I do.
Here is a pic of my 2001 Chrysler Sebring LXI....It was my Christmas Present
and its my first car. This is the perfect car for a 16 year old! It is very
powerful!
LXiSebring: See the featured Sebring of the Week, above.
Sebring UPDATE:
My 95 'Bring has just over 95k on her. Coupe with a V-6, she is basically
stock, but with some service work done to her. When she started stalling @
lights and idling weird, I replaced the plugs, O2 sensors & EGR valve.
Chrysler has a new EGR valve out now for the Sebring. R & R it when you can
afford it. New fuel filter @ 88k. Replaced the tran fluid @ 90k, timing belt
& water pump @ 89k. I know its expensive, but I STRONGLY suggest buying the
$50+ K & N air cleaner. Car accelerates better, runs stronger and gas
mileage goes up a mile or 2. Plus its warranteed for ONE MILLION MILES!!
Went with this pages suggestion on Ralphs Rotors and Brakes.. DO IT!!! Well
worth the money.
Hi David
I bought a Sebring LXi 1995 2.5 L V6 for my girlfriend. I was
impressed by the specs but the car handles really bad. I am now
really feeling bad for her and thinking of changing some stuff to
make it perform better. I think the engine feels heavy and lacks
breathing space. I want to put K&N filters for starters. City mpg is
18-19 which is surprising for this small underperformer. I wanted to
consult some experts for some other suggestions that might make it
perform and handle better. I feel like the people who are die-hard
followers of Sebring are either not driving the same car or I am
simply frustrated with a very average car fit for its price! Thanks
for any advice!
hi... my name is bryan . I have a 2004 sebring lx. i recently noticed that the "red light " notated for the theft system
doesnt blink when i arm the car. then when the car is armed i can open the car doors without the alarm sounding.
do you have a solution for me? how can i get the light to blink when its armed and how can i get the alarm to
sound when the doors are opened?????? heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllp
LXiSebring:
I would try 1. turning hte key in the drivers side door which supposedly reselts the alarm. If
that doesnt work, try disconnecting the pos battery terminal for a couple minutes,
which should reset everything.
Other than that you have a problem that needs a service department to trace.
I have owned my 1997 Sebring about 9 months now and I love it unfortunately I have a problem with it now, the
car won't start, it has fuel, and gets spark, and acts like it wants to start but doesn't several people have told me
different things that is wrong with it, from bad fuel pump, or filter, to water in the gas, 15 min prior to it not
starting I had gotten fuel, so I thought the problem was the water thing so I bought a bottle of heet and that didn't
work either, I am really needing some advice from someone that knows what they are doing. this is the only vehicle
we own and with it not running has really put a stress on us as far as getting to doctors appointments. any help you
can give me is greatly appreciated.
Eric says...Have the battery checked. Also try starting it with starting fluid to see if
it's a fuel or spark problem.
Recently I purchased this car. Since the purchase I have had some major
repairs done to this car. The car was purchased from a dealer. My
question
is this:
Did this year of car have a problem with the motor running hot. The motor
has had some repairs to it with the soft plugs being permatexed in. I
recently replaced the water pump but the motor is still running hot. You
can smell it when I shut it down. I travel three miles one way to my
employment and I am trying to find out if there was a recall on this car
and
its motor because of the running hot problem.
I am looking for a new motor if there is no recall on this vehicle. Can
you
send to the proper place to inquire the cost of a new motor. I would like
it to be some place close where I can go and pick it up. My other
preference is I do not want to go through a dealer of Chrysler products.
Our local dealership here in Butler is very costly and do not give price
breaks.
I look forward to hearing from you or someone who can help me with my
problem.
Eric says ...The dealer sold it to you this way? No warranty?
Someone must have damaged it, you need to have the compression checked and
the cooling system pressurized to check for leaks or a bad head gasket. Have
the thermostat replaced just as a precaution. The only other thing it could
be is a clogged radiator or heater core. You can check the radiator for "hot
spots" and also feel the upper radiator hose, if it is hot you probably have
sufficient flow.
Did you not drive the car before you bought it? did it heat up then?
I just purchased a georgeous red 2000 Sebring LXi coupe w/ only 28,000
miles on it and still under a full service contract warranty. I need to
change the front brake pads as they have just started rubbing/grinding a
little. How do I take off the pads, and what tools do I need. My
boyfriend says he will do it if someone tells him how. Could you or some
one let me know how please! I really want to drive it, but I am not
going to until I get these pads on. Help! BTW, the brake pads dont fall
under my warranty :(
Eric says...Replace the pads and rotors. I have been using NAPA parts latley. Use the
good pads and the cheap rotors. You will be good for another 20,000 miles.
All you should need is a 14mm socket to pull the 2 caliper bolts. Buy high
temp brake grease, clean those bolts, grease them back up and reassemble. I
am going by my 1996 model, not sure on the newer ones, should be about the
same.
The problem first started when it was warm
outside,
over 80 hot and humid, and persisted in the hot or cold or wet weather.
This week it is cooler 60's and its clear and bright and it still does
it.
The problem started the day after I filled up with gas. I never fill up
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
with gas because our gas prices in Canada are ridiculous. I put in
clean
flow, or gas additive, something like that after the first day of not
starting, figuring I had water in the gas. (Didn't help) Next I
replaced the gas filter, the next day, it still wouldnt start, well it
takes
allot of cranking the engine to start--today it took almost 10 minutes of
cranking before it would even slightly cough or look like it would try to
start.
This morning I tried priming the fuel pump, well turning on and off the
key
(5 times) before I even attempted to start it, I heard the fuel pump
come
on every time, but when I actually cranked the engine, it didn't help.
It took quite a while before I smelt the gas. I pump the gas after
cranking for several minutes, then I smell the gas.
My father seems to think it is the fuel pump. I don't. I have the
manual
and have read every forum that I could find on this issue. If it was
the
fuel pump, wouldn't it stall and not start all day long?
Tomorrow I will look at the spark plugs. The manual doesn't show me a
clear
diagram of where they are located or how to remove them (if near the
firewall) but I will figure it out.
I will also check the fuel pressure tomorrow.
I will get some starting fluid tomorrow and try it to see.
I figured it would be an easy fix, but not allot of people seem to have
this
issue with the cold starting.
Let me know if you have any further suggestions. It would be
appreciated
Eric responds...
That is a good one. Is it temperature related at all ? will it start
better
at 70 than 40 after sitting? Give me as much info as you can. You could
have a bad injector or your fuel system may be loosing pressure.
Try turning the car on and off like 5 or ten times (operates fuel pump)
then
try to start it.
Try starting it on starting fluid, see if it's a fuel delivery issue.
Sandra continues ...
No go on the starting fluid. It did not help at all. Yesterday we
checked
3 spark plugs and checked for fire and they would good. The 3 other plugs
are rather difficult to get at. We checked the engine compression, that
was good, we checked the fuel line leading to the fuel injectors when
cranking to see if there was gas and pressure, and it was good. We took
off the fuel pump relay and checked its connections, seemed good. Checked
fuses in engine compartment, all good.
Today when cranking over the engine, the check engine light finally came
on,
I receive code 12, code 42, code 66.
Code 12, battery disconnection, (we did that when changing the fuel
filter)
code 42 is I believe fuel pump relay ( I am assuming it registered
because
we removed it yesterday) and code 66 (which is another issue) code 66 is
the one I need to find out more about. I read the diagnostic code chart
in
the manual and I believe it relates to the PCM and the ETACS-ECU failure
to
communicate. ?? Not sure though.
Let me know your thoughts.
Another thought I had was the fuel pump check valve staying open??????
What
do you think?
Eric responds...
Your on the right track with the pcm, dont be affraid to clean the plug and
connections to the computer. Also pull the main fuses and breakers and look
for corrosion. PCM was my next guess. Your doing great.
Greetings!
I've look a bit through your site and find it helpful. I was wondering however, if you might know a of a solution
to a warping air bag cover. I have a 2002 sebring (just out of warranty) and the cover has started to warp. I've
purchased a dash mat to help, but was wondering if there was a common fix to this problem. I know that the
intrepids have this very problem and have seen a few sebrings with it too.
Any ideas would be appreciated!
Eric responds...
No,Some do and some don't. You can try writing to Chrysler but it never got
me anywhere. Your best bet is to find a dealer that is willing to help you.
Good luck.
I have a 1997 Sebring that has been sitting for about 3 months. I tried to start it yesterday and it would not start.
I tried to turn the key to see if the fuel pump was working(Maybe a lack of gas) or maybe the fuse was blown but
with all the ringing when i turn the key over i can not hear if it clicking or not. My fuse box cover is missing so
i don't know which one to check. 1. Is there a place i can go to online to get a fuse box diagram and 2. do you have
any solutions for me that might be able to help. Thank you for your time and information.
LXiSebring: Eric is looking into this
Hello:
I will be purchasing a used 1999 Sebring LXi with 49,000 miles and I am picking up the car this week. The
owner's manual is not in the car and I am writing to ask your opionion about what type of gas do you recommend
that I use.
I would also be very interested in knowing any advice that you would share with me regarding this car. Your
recommendations about maintenance, driving tips, etc. would be valued.
Thanks so much!
LXiSebring...these all use 87 regular. Owners manuals are avail thru parts dept at chrysler. 98 and 99 models have
been quite solid, no problems i can think of.
Good morning!
I own a 2000 Sebring and plan on keeping it until it
quits. However, the heating /air control panel lights
went out and now the radio lights did the same.
Both the heater and radio still work, but the dealer
is saying it would be 400-500$ to fix becasue they
have to replace the whole unit. Is this true or can
it be fixed by replacing a fuse?
The car has got 113,000 miles on it and I just dropped
$4,000 on paint, tires, timing belt, waterpump, plugs,
distributor and a couple other things and don't really
feel like spending any more money right now.
Any help or suggestions would be great.
Thanks!
Eric says...I replaced my lights but it is quite a bit of work. I went in through the
glove compartment to the back of the heater control. This was on a 96'
ok I just got a 2000 Chrysler Sebring LXi, I ended up looking for the car because my original(a 2000 Chevy Monte
Carlo) was totaled by a cell phone driver. So the search began, it was a choice of the Avenger or the LXi I found
a black one for a good price and now I'm the proud owner of the car, only thing is it hasn't got a manual and I will
more than likely have a few good questions here and there.
LXiSebring: Manuals should be available at the dealer parts dept.
Hi, my name is Dawn Maddox. I have a 1996 Sebring Coupe. It has a automatic transmission. It is a 2.5l V6.
I parked it under my carport and when I went to leave again it would not crank. I had just filled it up with gas.
My father in law looked at it. My headlights are strong and radio and interior lights work, but it will not turn over.
He put it in neutral and it cranked 2 times. He said it is the neutral safety switch. What do you think? He said
he had to take out the console around my gear sift to get to it. Does this sound right? Thanks a lot.
Eric says...There was a recall on that, you may want to look into it. Try messsing with
the brake pedal and pushing the shifter button a bunch of times and try
again.
Hey, my names Evan, I'm 17 from Indiana. I would love to be apart of your club. I have a 1997, Chrysler Sebring
LXI Coupe. 2.5 v6 stock 17in. rims, 5% window tint, all leather and woodgrain, all power,sunroof, custom
cdplayer, racing chip, cold air intake, custom exaust. I love my car and i have little problems here and there i would
like to discuss.
hi,
My name is Pam and I recently purchased a 2003 coupe. It is beautiful. It is the shiniest car around. It is maroon
with black interior. I've had it 5 days and about 20 guys are interested in it. In fact, i think it just got
me a date. The guy loves my car. Eveyone asks me what it is. The funny thing is, in 2000 i rented a car and
got a 2000 beautiful white/gold trim coupe and fell in love with it. I had it for a week. I hated to give it up. I
decided then that someday I would own one. My dealer kept an eye out for one and found me one with 37000 miles
in immaculate condition. It has the infinity sound system. I especially like how the interior is
black, yet the interior roof is off white. I just love driving this car. It puts a smile on my face. Cruzin with the
roof open..... I am finally a proud owner. Thank-you Chrysler for one beautiful car.
LXiSEbring: send me some photos and I will post them.
I found your website and i am the owner of a white 98 coupe sebring....I not sure if you can help me ...but i have
been wanting to restore the interior roofing in my car...there are abunch of cigeratte burns in the interior and i was
really wanting to fix them ...if you can help me figue out how to do so i would grealty appreciate it...if you get
thanks...Lauren
LXiSebring: Well, for startings, any car upholstery shop should be
able
to replace the headliner pretty easily and inexpensively. Cigarette
burns sometimes can be repaired, otherwise not. THe trick is
to cut away the burned fibers and then glue fibers in taken
from some inconspicuous
spot in the car upholstery. Use a glue like Alene's tacky glue
avail at crafts sores. If the burn is too large, this won't
work very well.
I have a Red '97 Sebring LXi, 2.5, V6 65,000 miles...I'm experiencing
engine noise...sound like there is not enough oil flowing through or over
the rocker arms. Oil pressure is fine. Are those rocker arms adjustable?
Eric says...Well they are hydraulic lifters but maybe one of them is lazy and not
pressurizing. Does it quit after a while? Do you use 10w30 oil?
HI, :)
does the 1998 sebring has a a) hose fuel line or b) metal fuel line?
thanks
Eric says ...I'm not sure but am assuming it is mostly metal.
hi mr can you send me a sebring manual i wanna know everything about this car because i have this one
Owners or service manual? Owners manuals are avail for sale at dealers parts depts I think.
None are on line that I am aware.
Hello,
It's me again ( MARIO from POLAND ) and I have next questions. Please send
me if you know some internet address of shops, which in USA sells alloy
wheels. I have found www.bigwheels.net
REGARDS
MARIO KUBICA
LXiSebring: www.tirerack.com sells them I think.
I have a blk 97 LXI that I have had for only 1 year. This is my second
sebring coupe and I am so..... frustrated. I spent $5,000 & I own my car but
the tab keeps running. recently spent $700 on a tune up and distributor and
I am still not getting any fire. My car hasn't started in 3 months and I'm
sick. Because I'm a female I get a lot of BS from machanics and I can't
afford to keep dumping money into it. I love my car, please help me.
LxiSebring:
Let's start at the beginning. What have you spent $5000 doing? $700 for a tuneup
sounds like a dishonest mechanic, unless other work was done. Do you need a
different car or a mnew mechanic??? YOU need to have a RELIABLE
mechanic look at this. Sometimes a top dealer service dept is your best bet. THe guys
who claim they can fix things on the cheap often learn mechanics on your $
Eric says ....Try a cam shaft or crank shaft sensor.
http://www.sendpix.com/albums/05091317/eacfuj5a1c/
These photos show...
The Sebring gets a fresh coat of DuPont clear (in a spray can) on the
drivers door after I wet sanded a quite deep scratch out of the paint. I
figured I would give it a shot and am pleased with the results...and the
cost.
I also had to repaint the wiper arms in Rustoleum Black Satin which is one
of the best paints I have found for covering rusty metal etc.
After one wheel cover was damaged on our White Outlander, I was able to sand
it smooth and decided to paint it white. Allison really liked it too so they
all ended up white. Rustoleum Again...
We have owned several white vehicles, but not in Pearl white. I really
noticed the pearl after waxing the vehicle last weekend.
Hi, I would like to be a member of your site, I just purchased my 2004 Chrysler Sebring LX a few days ago and
just love it! Rita Lucero Omaha NE
LXiSebring: See photos on the photo page
I would like to ask if there are any consumers out there who have had problems with the exterior door handles
breaking on their sebrings. I have replaced my door handles twice within the last 2 years.. Is there any hope or
someone I can email to get more information?
Thanks
LXiSebring: That one is all new to me after 10 years. Now INTERIOR door handles routinely
break.
Hello,
My name is Bob. I have a 95 Sebring LXi with 260k kms on it. I have put 11k on
it in the last 4 months. The car still runs perfectly, and had plenty of power
to beat most newer cars. The body has a few little dings in it, but almost no
rust. The interior is near perfect, with the exception of the driver seat, it
is worn a lot, not surprising ofter that many kms, I would be too.
If you need photos of the car, I would be more that happy to send them.
Thanks in Advance,
LXiSebring: Send photos and I will put htem up on the photo page.
Hi.Was wondering if anyone out there could help me in locating a front exhaust pipe (flex pipe) for a 96 sebring
LXI 2.5 V6.My mechanic says they are priced around $650.00.would appreciate any help to find one
cheaper.Thanks
LXiSebring: Anyone?
Hello fellow Sebring owners. I just got mine & have some modification plans of my own. I will send you the after
pics when completed! Here is the "before" pic, as it sits now after 2 weeks of ownership. Stay posted ... your
gonna love this!
LXiSebring: See Featured Sebring "before pic" above and on photo page.
wuzup fellow sebring owners! my name is Will and here are pics of my 1996 chrysler lxi sebring on 20 inch
wheels with custom interior and custom kandy orange paint with spoiler, hope to hear what u guys have say about
my chrysler oh yeah tell everybody 20" wheels does fit.
LxiSebring: see several photos of Will's Sebring on the photo page.
Hi, I recently got your e-mail from
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/LXiSebring/
ownerseb.htm and am hoping you can help. I have a 95 Sebring LXi. The car
runs
great, and everything works, except it seems to be a pig on gas. I am only
getting around 19-20mpg.
The trouble code that comes up is 5 1, oxygen sensor indicating a lean fuel
to
air ratio.
I changed the upstream O2 sensor, and that doesn't seem to help.
I am a university student with a tight budget, and with gas prices the way
they
are, I can't afford to have a car guzzling gas.
The car doesn't hesitate at all, it starts easily every morning. I haven't
had
any problems with it, except this.
I hope that you can help me.
Thanks in advanced,
Bob
Eric says...There are two more O2 sensors, also the cat may be clogged. Besides,
guessing you do some town driving too, thats about right. The car weighs
3500 lbs. Try running 87 Octane gas too.
I have a 2000 Chrysler Sebring V6. It has started missing a little while
idling. It increases when I have it in Drive or in Reverse.
Also I started to change the Spark Plugs on it, but how is that supposed to
happen. WHo in the heck came up with the wiring of the spark plugs and
their placement. WHat is the easiest way to change these?
Thanks,
Eric says...You have to take off the plenum just like most v-6 cars. I would suggest
using Mopar plugs and wires.
Hi my name is Kevin I live in Indiana. My father bought a 98 Chrysler
Coupe Sebring in 1998. It has been an excellent car but in the past few
months, it has died a few times on him and usually starts right back up
but not always. We have had 3 trusted mechanics look at this with
diagnostic hook ups and still can't figure it out. Have you heard of
this? I am thinking about buying the car. It only has 70-thousand miles
on it.
LXiSebring: UNder what circumstances does it die? parked at idle or driving down the road?
The diagnosis is very different depending on when this happens.
Howdy...My name is Josh and I suppose you're my new best friend. I saw your
name on the sebring owner's page and figured maybe you could help me with a
couple of things. I bought a used avenger a few months back that had a bad
motor. Rather than spend all kinds of money on a new motor, I started
looking for avenger/ sebring coupes with the same motor on wrecked car
auctions. I finally bought a 96 sebring coupe that looked to be in bad
shape in the auctoin pics, but when I got it turned out to be in fair
condition in need of not too much repair. I've bought and replaced every
panel that was damaged so far except the front bumper cover (cost is the
major issue here) so I have been looking on ebay for a cheaper used
version. One question I have is: will the newr looking bumper covers up to
00 fit right on or would they need modifying, and what will this do to the
overall effect of the trim. Am I setting myself up to drive a silly looking
car? And my second question is: what is the best
motor to put in the Avenger if I am looking to make that a horsepower
machine...I read everything on the website about the motors but I couldn't
get an idea of whether the 3.0 will fit in it or which year of 2.5 has the
most horseys. also it says that only the 2.0 comes with a manuel trans. Can
this same manuel be used in the 2.5, or is there any that will match up. I
can't tell you how much I would appreciate you being able to answer any of
the questions, or even simply point me in the right dirrection.
Thanks for your time,
Eric says...First off, The bumper cover for the 95-96 has a false grille and smooth
cladding, the 97 + front end would look silly if you could even get it to
work. You could look for a body kit and make something work there.
2.5 Auto
2.0 Auto or manual
Those are your choices, Most 2.0 Neon parts will work on the 2.0 Sebring but
watch because the exhaust is opposite. You can do cams, valves, turbos,
headers etc. This would be the engine to build.
The other snag is that automatic transmission, it is computer controlled and
your going to confuse/overpower it. The Sebring never was a real performer
and that transmission really doesnt help matters.
Also check out ASOG those guys modify just about everything. Personally I'd
buy an Eclipse with a turbo and AWD and be done. The interior is almost
identical, in fact the doors are the same, there is a big void behind that
plastic panel on the Sebring door and it looks just like the one on the
Eclipse,Talon,Avenger.
Hi
How can I tell about my sebring lxi 1998 and have it posted ib this web site
any chance of getting info on rebuilt transmission v6 lxi coupe
LXiSebring: drop me a note with the info. No leads on a transmission, tho you might check local transmission
shops.
T
I recently purchased a 2001 Sebring LXi V6 automatic with 29,000 miles.
Is there any way to reduce the idle speed more quickly from a cold start?
If I immediately put the trans in forward or reverse when cold and idling at
1500 the trans makes a growning noise for 30 - 60 seconds - is this normal?
It seems to run and shift fine.
LXiSebring:THere are some idle speed controllers and adjustments, but this is technical stuff
and probably calls for a mechanic who knows exactly what he is doing
Your transmission should not groan. Have the noise checked out.
Eric says AC motor could be dirty or bad. What your doing is much better for the car.
The valve body in the transmission could also be dirty.
Thought you would have some knowledge of where the fuel filter on a
'95 Chrysler Sebring would be. Its a 2.5litre V6 coupe and my manual
says it should be behind the gas tank. To get to it you have to remove
the taillights and rear bumper.....so I did and for the life of me I can not
find the fuel filter....My haynes doesn't really differentiate models
before 2001 except for coupe, sedan or convertible...the coupes ff is
suppose to be behind the gas tank on the frame---I'm sorry but I didn't
see it there. I know that the elec. fuel pump is under the rear seat and
that it has a strainer on it---is this the fuel filter? This is my daughters'
car any help or direction on where to get help would be appreciated.
The problem she claims is that occasionally it will just die, runs fine,
idles fine, accelerates fine and will run that way for days and then she
says it just dies like it loses fuel, most of the time she will wait a while
and it will start...I put mid octane gas in it for her, about every 3
months I put gas treatment in her tank to keep the injectors clean---
slick50. I change the air filter regularly---I will admit I don't change the
plugs like I should because I don't like to take all that electrical crap off
the engine just to get to the intake to remove it for access to the
plugs...But this doesn't sound like plugs or injectors to me....??? Any
leads----
Max
LXiSebring: I think the fuel filter is actually INSIDE the tank. THis is
dealer mechanic stuff. I worry you have gunk in the gas tank.
T
hey my name is G and me and my girl own a 96 sebring im having
trobule with two things...
1 the stop and tail light fuses keeps on blowin ????? what should i do
2 My Sunroof doesnt work and there is no fuse for it anywhere>>???
and it doesnt even make a noise like if it could be the motor please
email me back
ERIC SAYS...Have your car checked for a short.
Good afternoon:
I was just looking at your website and found it very informative. I have
a
2001 sebring and have had literally no problems with it. I have bought
new
tires and have had the front brake pads changed and regular (very
regular)
oil changes. I have 110,000 miles on the car (bought it new so most is
highway driving) and am about to get the front brakes totally replaced
and
need a new hub bearing on the front left wheel (oh yes, the front right
one
was already changed). My question, I have bought a timing belt to have
it
replaced (as I have been advised to even though am not experiencing any
problems) and just wondered what kind of labour hours I'm looking at
for
this job. I have been told anywhere from 2 to 6 (which seems
unrealistic to
me). Also, my ck engine light is on and I was told it was the egr valve
which I replaced but light is still on. What if I unplug the fuse under
the
hood as you had suggested to someone else? Any assistance you can
give me
is appreciated. Thanks!
Eric says...I would do both, it's not that your belt will break it's that if
it does
valves will meet pistons. Preventative measure. Use OEM or gates belts,
and
you can pull the fuse and plug it back in if you like.
LXiSebring: THe Sebring engines are designed so the valves wont meet
pistons if the timing belt breaks, but you will be stuck on the road.
Hi,
I think you once helped me with a dealership problem
about two years ago.
I bought my Sebring in 2003. My warranty expires in
March of 2006.
After having my Sebring repainted (paint started to
faint after only one year!) I now have a new problem:
Yesterday I discovered that a small parto the sunroof
weather stripping is missing. It looks just like
somebody cut it out with a sharp knife. It's in the
front middle and I can see through the hole from
inside the car!
I brought the car to the dealer (not where I bought
the car but a new five-star dealer) where I was told
that "there must have been a small part which must
have fallen off" and that I should go to an
after-market place to have it replaced.
As far as I remember the stripping was one piece but I
would love to find out if that's true. I also believe
that this should be covered under warranty, shouldn't
it?
Any tips or recommendations are greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Anja
LXiSebring: The dealer gave you good advice. THey would likely know
what seal is needed and be able to reopair the problem, as they install
sunroofs
every day.
I 'm stuck at home 15 miles from town because after I disconnected
battery to get inside lights to turn off, the
security system activated and I can't get it to shut off so #1 Ican turn off
that loud horn #2 I can once again start
my car. are you still around and can you help me.
Thanks Nancy
LXiSebring: Try turning the key in the door lock. May be undergood
switch too.
Continuing
I finally got it, but I had to have my keyless entry repaired. Thanks for
the help.
Found your individual web pages and would like to join your group. I
have a 1996 Sebring LXI coupe, low miles,
and in excellent condition, purchased new. White Silver. Let me know
how I can join your group.
LXiSebring: You are in! Tell us about your car.
I have a 1996 LXI, white silver, fully optioned with 92,300 miles.
Bought it new in Michigan and kepted it garagedat my home in Dallas.
It was in storage in NYC for close to two years while I taught at a
university in the Middle East. The Sebring drives and looks like new as
I have always taken care of it. I think it drives even better than new
since I had a set of Goodyear Assurance ComforTred's installed last
winter. Best tires I have ever owned. Last week just had all the lower
body silver repainted and all buffed and polished. I moved to Ottawa
Canada two years ago and that was the first two winters the car was
ever driven in snow.Before I have rust problems (none now) I am taking
it in today for a full rust prevention treatment at a place that has been
highly recommended by some local people (who know a great deal about
rust). I only drive about 8,000 miles a year, or less, and most of that is
due to two annual trips to the states and each visit is 2,000 miles round
trip. I might be picking up another car from a relatives estate next
December so the Sebring will even be driven less and hopefully last for
many years. Its a great car and I have been very happy with it. I also
like it because there are very few Sebrings here in Canada so it still
draws attention.
Thanks for contacting me and I look forward to following your group.
Al Baucom
2 My Sunroof doesnt work and there is no fuse for it anywhere>>???
and it doesnt even make a noise like if it
could be the motor please email me back
You have a short somewhere. These can be tough to track down even
if the car were in front of me. I suspect the
tywo problems are related somehow. ARE you sure the sunroof isnt on
the same fuse circuit as the stop/taillights?
THe suroof motor could be blowing that fuse if they are. YOu are
probably going to need
to take it into someone who is good at tracing circuits.
I have a 98 sebring that overheated on my blow a head
gasket. The transmission was also going and won't
shift into overdrive due the the "failsafe" non sense
Chrysler installed. Do you know of any good sites
that will have sebring motors and transmissions or
even cylinder heads for a pretty reasonable price?
LXiSebring: you need to find a donor sebring that has been rear ended
but has a good engine and tranny
Ok, i have tried that but in Alabama its like finding
a needle in a haystack, the closes i've come was a 99
model and i wasn't sure if the motor and transmission
would fit it my sebring without changing the computer
and wire harness.
LXiSebring: close but you may need a good mechanic.
Have any idea on how to replace broken drivers side door handle? Or
where can I get info on same? Thanks
Eric responds....
I know people here have done it, I never have.
LXiSebring: I havent done it either--its not that easy.
I found your email address on the Sebring Coupe Owner's Page website
and it
said that you would help people out as much as possible with questions
regarding the older models of the Sebrings. This car is my girlfriend's
car
and it seems like we've had a lot of problems with it lately and are very
close to trading it in for a newer car.
After hitting numerous things the lower front fascia has been broken in
half
for quite a while now and was dragging on the ground so I ended up just
cutting it off instead of fixing it (probably a mistake). Never thought it
would really cause any issues, but over the last month or so there has
been
quite a few days of 110+ temps (We live in AZ). On days like that
when
driving on the highway with the AC on, the car eventually overheats.
Turning off the AC usually allows the temperature to creep back down
to an
acceptable range.
It seemed like an efficiency problem, so I started with the basics. I've
replaced the thermostat, put a new radiator cap on, and added some
Watter
Wetter type of additive, but unfortunately the car continues to overheat
on
hot days on the highway w/ the AC on. I took it into the shop today w/
thoughts they would just end up flushing it out and then go from there;
however, to my surprise, they checked out the basic temps in and out of
the
radiator and couldn't find any problems. I told them that the coolant
seemed a bit dirty, but they were convinced that it would not affect the
cooling capability, however I am not so sure.
They eventually decided that the lack of a front lower fascia was causing
an
air flow problem and that is why the car was overheating under a certain
load. While looking at the incredibly restrictive front bumper cover, I
can
see how it's possible that no front fascia could cause airflow problems.
So
my question is, how important is the lower front fascia to the airflow
over
the radiator? Could lack of the front fascia cause poor airflow and
eventual overheating when the conditions are right (temp, speed,
aerodynamic
pattern)?
With new front bumpers going for over $800, I'm trying to decide what
my
best next step would be. Any suggestions?
Thanks for any help you could provide,
Josh Corbin
Eric says...First off, running the A/C ensures that the fan is always on.
It may be that
your temp sensor is bad. This is common on Sebrings. Does you temp.
rise and
fall very quickly? Of course this is impossible and usually means a false
reading. Turn the A/C on and verify that both fans are running. Let me
know
what you find. Also is the surface of your radiator clean allowing air to
flow through? Drain is in the bottom corner, it is plastic with a small
hose
on the end.
Have a pressure test done to see if it holds pressure (not leaking) You
could have a blown head gasket and at speed and load it seeps and
spikes a
temperature. A car can not heat up that quickly or cool down that
quickly.
Get a new temp sendor and see if that works and do the pressure test.
I just bought a 2001 Sebring LXI coupe with a manual transmission ,it
was
working perfect except the battery needed to be replaced.
After the battery got replaced at a commercial battery outfit, (it took
about 10 minutes and I watched them doing it) I started the car and
when let
go of the gas pedal it immediatelly stalled. I started the car again and
again and it started perfectly every time and as long as I kept my foot
on
the pedal it was running, but wouldn't idle. Every time I took my foot
off
the gas pedal and the rpm wend down it stalled.
When I asked the mechaninc what was the problem, he told me that this
is a
"Chrysler thing" and the computer will be automatically reset in about
15k... feeling a bit uneasy about the 15k deal I took off stalling at every
red light.
After abut 50k I still had the same problem with stalling so I called the
mechanic again. This time he put me on hold and then consulted with
other
"electricians" who told me that I should turn the lock manually 5 times
on
the passenger side. Then drive another 15k and then the computher will
be
reset. Indeed this sounded silly and I inquired if he was "for real", after
being reassured that this is a genuane technique used by Chrysler to
reduce
autotheft I performed the ritual and kept driving... well it is now over
a
100k and I have turned keys in multiple combinations in every lock in
my car
including the trunk...
I'm feeling quite puzzled as of why a simple battery change would
produce
such results. Obvously I'm going to take it to a licenced Chrysler
mechanic
now, but just in case if someone knows an answer to this predicament
would
you please comment.
Thank you.
LXiSebring: Chrysler Sebrings have small batteries need new batteries
every 2 years, and do strange
things when the battery is even a little bad. Try replacing your battery
with one
from the dealer and I think you will have fewer problems. They are
about $79.95
Hi, I found your email address when I was searching the net trying to
find information on the above.
I just picked up this vehicle for my daughter, but it does not have an
owners manuel.
Can you PLEASE tell me how to setup the garage opener that is on the
sun visor to work with my garage.
THANK YOU
Anthony
LXiSebring: I don't know how to do this. Does anyone here know?
I have a 98 Sebring LXI Coupe and I am having the most horrendous
time
finding the OEM Muffler system for it... Can you maybe point me in
the right
direction.
LXiSebring: Anyone? A dealer should be able to help here.
Keri writes
hello, i found your site by luck. I just bought a 2004 Sebring Coupe. I
love it. I keep going outside and just staring
at it. Then again, it might be because this is the first car I bought since
1994.
I would like to be a member on your site, but do you have any links that
I can get accessories for my new car
Thanks
LXiSebring: You are in!
uHi:
I just wanted to add my name to your Sebring Coupe membership. I
drive
a 2000 Sebring LXi, 2.5L. I've included a picture of my vehicle and
will continue to visit your site periodically. Thanks for your
research.
LXiSebring: See featured Sebring above and tyhe Photo page.
Hi
I have a 1995 green lx i was wondering if i could join your web site, I
also have a question do you know if the
leather seats from a lxi will bolt into a lx thanks,
LXiSebring: You are in! See John's Sebring on the Photo page
<
T
I just purchased a sebring and was nothing but happy. Got it at a very
good price and it is a beutiful car. Today
the check enging light started coming on. I was told to disconnect the
battery to reset the diagnostics. Has any
one else had this problem. The car has 48,000 miles on it. HELP.
LXiSebring: You need to get ttthe dealer to diagnose the code as to why
the check engine light came on. Probably
a bad emissions sensor or component.
Hi,
I have a 97 sebring and I am having electrical problems with my stereo
speakers. They are cutting off one by one.
I have lost the power to my door speakers and am in the process of
losing power of the front speakers. If anyone
can tell me if it might be the wiring or the speakers it would be a great
help. They are infiniti speakers. Thanks.
LXiSebringProbably a loose or corroded connector, but if you are losing
sound on all speakers at once there are
bigger problems, in need of diagosis by a decent car stereo shop.
Usually its cheaper and simpler to replace the radio/cd player as a unit
than to diagnose the
problem.
LXiSebring
What year Sebring? Generally if the fuse is bad something else on the
same circuit
doesnt work ie dome light or power window. Cigarette lighters aren't
separately fused. So chances are the lighter
itself is bad not the fuse unless there are other non-working items.
I'm getting a 2005 Sebring and I was wondering where you got the
Gold lettering and trim for your Sebring. I
asked the dealership and they said they did not offer it. Could you
please let me know.
LXiSebring: anyone?
h
Christopher writes
Greetings!
The ABS trouble dash lamp came on and the brakes were acting funny
so I
took my coupe to my mechanic. He told my the code reported an
intermittent
problem which he was unable to diagnose.
Later noise came from somewhere under the box that houses the fusible
links
in the engine compartment and the battery was completely discharged.
This
has happened intermittently several times. The brakes seem to be
getting
worse. Any insight you may have would be most appreciated as my
budget is
quite limited.
Thankyou for taking time to read this and God bless!
Eric says ...Pull the fuse/breakers for the ABS system. It''s
supplemental anyhow. You
will just have normal brakes.
Do u know any good repair of my sebring sites.....it acts like its out of
gas and wont start...but it has a full
tank.....no check engine lights....im hopeless and don't know what to
do.
thank you for your time
LXiSebring: I forwarded this to Eric..Others feel free to respond as
well.
.
Hello! I need some direction please....
My 1998 chrysler sebring stalls out when I am driving it, the engine
light will flash but not stay on. It restarts but I cant get a good
diagnostic reading.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Eric says....
Need more info. During idle, up hills, when first started, warmed up?
I just bought a 1999 Sebring Coupe and the rim of one of the tires is
bent. The dealer I bought it from says they cannot find a replacement
and I was hoping some one could tell me where I can find one. The
problem is that the rim is a white one. They can find the chrome but
not the white. Any help would be great. Also, I loved your website I
will keep checking it for new information.
LXiSebring: Can anyone help on this? I think the right wheel shop can
often fix bent rims. Check that out.
I have a white 1997 Sebring LXi coupe. I love it!! When I bought it
used,
the check engine light was on. I finally took it to Auto Zone and had
them
check it with their computer. I replaced all of the O2 sensors, one at a
time, and the light went off. The main problem I have is that the front
bumper is so low to the ground that it scrapes on just about anything .
speed bumps, driveways with any sort of incline, pot holes . and it is
now
cracked. Any suggestions on how to fix it without replacing the whole
thing?
I also have to replace my head gasket because it has a hole in it,
probably
from scraping it, too!! This is pretty pricey and my husband wants me
to
just sell the car instead of fixing it, but NO WAY!!!
just got 1 2002 sebring today,but no owners manual.Can u tell me why
the air would quit qorking and the yellow
light that lets you know it is on is flashing.When i went back later the
light didnt flash and the air seemed cool
again.I would still like an owners manual
The owners manual is a part that can be ordered at any Chrysler dealer
parts dept.
Not sure why the light was blinking, but if it happens again shut down
the AC and fan and then restart entirely.
LXiSebring: I've never taken this apart but maybe some of you who
have can help here.
Hello, I would like to join the owners page. I just bought a 2004
chrysler
sebring coupe limited, pearl blue, very nice car. Can you tell me
anything I
should look out for with this year Sebring. Thank you.
LXiSebring: send us a photo for the photo page
Hey David. Hope you had a good vacation. My question is... I have a
2001
Sebring LXi with 47K miles. I have had the brakes replaced, the tires
replaced and some other minor things. However, recently I noticed a
'clicking' noise around my left front tire. I took it to the dealership
where all my other work has been performed and found out that the left
front
lower control arm and the tie rod needed to be replaced. I'm wondering
if
this is a common problem for this year and if it could have been found
when
my brakes were replaced.
Thanks for your help and listening to my grumbles. I absolutely love
my car
(also had a 2000 Sebring but was involved in an accident) and want to
keep
it in tip-top shape. Any suggestions will be welcomed! :)
Sebrings of all years seem to have assorted suspension problems. The
good news is that they are fixable.
To be honest, I'm a Ford man at heart, but over the years have
owned three new Dodge/ Chrysler vehicles. This of course includes my
most recent purchase of a new '05 Chrysler Sebring LX Coupe. Since
1970, Chrysler products seemed to be on a down hill slide, poor body
fit, electrical/ mechanical problems, etc. But since Chrysler had joined
w/ Mitsubishi, I now have more confidence in their product. I've
owned two Chrysler Sebring Coupes in my time, newly purchased, and
both having the Mitsubishi 4 cylinder engine/ transmission. My first
Sebring Coupe was a sleek 97 model with the pistol grip type shifter (
Automatic ). And of course, the newly purchased 05 Sebring Coupe
that I now speak of. In my opinion, there are great differences between
the '97 and '05 Sebring Coupe that is worth mentioning. The '97 coupe
no doubt was a head turner, but suffered from poor body fit, a buzzing
sound each time that I moved the pistol grip shifter from park to reverse
and then to drive once again. The interior noise level was embarrasing,
as all of that plastic cladding on the exterior made horrible squeeking
sounds as if I were riding in a 1980 Corvette. Everyone who ever rode
in this vehicle with me would always ask what that terrible noise was,
and of course, the people at the Chrysler garage told me that a few bolts
beneath the vehicle were loose, nothing to worry about, but, the noise
continued to grow louder until I couldn't take it anymore, and had
traded the vehicle for a new 1999 Mercury Cougar V-6. However, the
one common thing that my 1997 Sebring Coupe had shared with that of
my newly purchased '05 Sebring Coupe was warped front rotors, fresh
off the showroom ! I really think that Chrysler should enhance its' Q/A
program and get with the program ! Don't these people that work at
Chrysler dealerships test drive the vehicle for at least one mile prior to
their attempting to sell a vehicle to a perspective buyer ? In any event,
I had returned to Chrysler once again, only due to my being upside
down on the vehicle that I wanted to trade for a new vehicle, and being
that Chrysler was the only company that was willing to work with me
on the numbers to bring me within a reasonable figure that I was willing
to pay for a new vehicle. Being that the Viper and Crossfire are for the
elite few, ( I like sports cars ) the only alternative that I had as far as
chosing a vehicle from Chrysler that was sporty in appearance was the
sleek '05 Chrysler Sebring LX Coupe that had that chopped top
appearance and aero look to it. Surprisingly, the Mitsubishi 4 cylinder
engine is not as weak as the car critic's say it is, it powers the vehicle
with ease, and hitting 80-90 MPH is no problem at all, this vehicle is a
spirited highway cruiser. The noise level of the 4 cylinder engine is not
as bad as the car critic's claim also, and is only notable under hard
acceleration from a standing stop, or passing a vehicle when climbing
a hill. I have the touring suspension with the '05 Coupe, and I am
extremely pleased with it's smooth/ quiet ride, and the vehicle manuvers
and negotiates sharp turns/ bends with sports car like handling, as there
is no body roll, and the vehicle remains nearly even during hard
cornering and sharp manuvers. One thing that I'm very happy to report,
the 05 Sebring Coupe's body is a good tight fit, all exterior parts are in
line with one another and fit well, and as you close the doors, you hear
a low tone pleasing thud, which tells you that the '05 Sebring Coupe is
built extremely well. The negatives to this vehicle as I had previously
said, were the front rotors being warped at time of delivery, and even
though pleasing to the eye, the high body stance of the rear of the
vehicle makes this vehicle difficult to judge distance when parking, as
it becomes difficult to see clearly over the trunk/ rear of vehicle, as you
are seated low in the drivers seat, and your vision can become
obstructed/ limited due to mentioned above, and also by the post
seperating front/ rear side windows behind driver. Also, and although
being the law, and necessary for ones safety, the addition of seat belts
can also add to your limitation of vision, and ability to turn your upper
body to the left, in order to see who/ what is approaching from the left
side or left rear of vehicle, as once again, you are cramped and seated
low, and being tangled-up in that seat belt doesen't help matters. I
know, that's what your rear view mirror is for, exterior mirrors, etc.,
but it doesen't always work that way in all situations. The interior of
the '05 was not as nice as the '97 that I previously owned, it was very
plain and dull in regard to the insturmentation display/ design, and all
of the materials used for the interior, from the cheap looking plastic
dash components, door and kick pannels, to the lack of a standard
equipped leather wrapped steering wheel was a huge minus for a vehicle
that on a scale of 1 to 10, rates a 10 for exterior appearance and build
quality. I didn't care for the hard plastic on the rear of the front bucket
seats either, and I'm sure someone will soon tell me that sitting in the
rear seat reminds them of being seated on a rollacoaster, as they are
similar in appearance ! The interior seating, although comfortable and
having good support for the driver and passanger, they could have used
a little more cushion. All in all, I'd rate this vehicle a 10 for exterior
appearance and build quality, in my opinion it's the best looking Sebring
to date. I'd also rate this vehicle a 10 in dependability due to it's
Mitsubishi engine/ transmission as being the standard engine for this
model, as I've always had problems with Chrysler built engines in the
past, not to mention electrical fires inside vehicle due to sub-par wiring.
The interior quality I would rate at a 5, ride/ handling a 9. Performance
of the I-4 engine a 7.5, as you get ample acceleration and above average
performance when crusing on the highway, and it's very easy on gas
also, and that makes this combo just right for the times. Great looks,
ample performance, and friendly at the pumps = the 05 Chrysler
Sebring LX Coupe, base version.
Hello,
I searched your site in regards to this. I have a 97 Sebring LXI with the
Infinity System. It appears that the Dash
Mounted speakers have either blown out or are not connected properly.
I want to give them a look but cant seem
to figure out how to get to those little bastards. I've tried looking for
screws or flaps that I can pop out, but nothing.
Do I need to get to them from under the hood? Do I have to remove the
whole dashboard? Do they just rotate out
or something that is easy to do? Finding a replacement for them should
be hard to do since another reader at your
site has mentioned this.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I just want to know how to get
to those little speakers so I can look at them
myself to see what the problem is and why they are not playing.
LXiSebring: I am checking with eric on how you migfht get in there,
but the real trick
is finding replacement speakers that fit and sound ok. These are
semi-full range drivers, not merely tweeters,
and there is little magnet clearance. A place like Crtutchfields that
usually carries everything like this
draws a blank for a replacement driver. I've heard rumors that even
CHrysler no longer stocks them.
T
hi my name is nick, i just recieved a 98 sebring lxi...i was looking
through the owners photos pages and saw a
perosn named LEE's picturs of a black sebirng and he has redone the
control panel and i was wondering if you
had some sort of contact info to him so i could get his help...thanks
alot... i wuold also liek to become a
member...thank!!
nick
LXiSEbring: In the archives there is no doubt a guy named LEE who
has the car you described and there will be
an
email address for him. I have no idea if LEE still owns the car or the
email address is current, but that would be
a start. Do a search of each year's archile for LEE And see what pops
up.
My wife & i bought this 98 sebring lxi in may
2002. we both like the car , however at times the car just wont start--the
dash lights come on , there's plenty of juice in the battery ,it cannot be
jumped. once after waiting 15 minutes it started right up.another time
this
happened in my garage & i had it towed to the dealer's @ that time they
told me it was the battery..so i payed up & took the car home. it was
fine
for quite a while , then yesterday --same thing --
another tow job , this time they're selling me a starter for about $300.00
i wont get the car till mon. or tues. i think the problem is in the
anti-theft circuitry. but i don't know how to reset the [2345dfghjcvbn5!
thing . any help you can give me will save me a lot of headaches @
$$$$$
Eric says...
Something like this, you have to trust the mechanic and bite the bullet.
Maybe it's a starter solenoid and they think you need a whole starter.
Maybe
it's not the starter, who knows. These kinds of problems are just not
able
to be diagnosed through email.
Ilie writes
Based on your knowledge/experience how often the transmission should
be
serviced? My car has only 47,000 miles but I intend to keep this car for
awhile specially that the car is not driven during the winter. What
other recommendation will you have in regard to the maintenance of this
vehicle so it can last for another 4 to 5 years?
Thanks a lot
LXiSebring Pull the transmission dipstick and check the level but in
particular the color of hte fluid. It should
not have a brownish cast. Ordinarily, the fluid would be changed after
about 75,000
miles.
Rissa writes
Came across this page and decided to show my '99 Chrysler Sebring
LXI I just
bought 2 months ago. I love this car, but the only problem is the
brakes.
Rotor has been smoothed out on front right brake and all pads have been
changed. Not even an hour later after having this done, that front right
brake started to squeak and it's still squeaking. I've read about how to
resolve this issue with the brakes and I'm going to give it a try. Will let
you know as soon as I get it done. Options installed on the car: 2.5L
V6
engine and an automatic transmission
Power Windows
LXiSebring: Welcome to the Club!
I am having problems with my 99 Sebring. On Idle its rough and in
drive it will backfire from the bottom of the
car and with chuggs. Would you happen to know what is wrong with
the car.
I replaced the Cap, Roter, Wires, plugs, timing belt, crank sensor......
Eric says :
O2 sensor or clogged catalytic converter
Hi guy, My name is Chad and I am the proud owner of a golden 1999
sebring Lxi. I love this car and this site to
death. I was looking for specs on the door speakers when I came upon
this page. I have had several of the
problems I read about on this site, and thanx to you guys I know how
to fix most of them. Passenger door lock,
handle, dash speaker, all gone. :( . Anyhow, I would love to become
part of the club.
LXiSebring: Welcome to the club!
I live in CT. where we have just adopted a strict emissions testing
protocol. Check engine light was on so I
had my car serviced, {new O2 sensors, catalytic converter} my
mechanic cleared all fault codes and returned car
to me. Car will not be accepted by emissions computer because my
system moniters need to be reset by taking
the car through the manufacturers drive cycle.
My mechanic never heard of drive cycle and niether has the Chrsyler
dealership mechanic. so I'm doing what the
state's emission guru has told me to do, which is access the web and
download the drive cycle calibration test for
my 1997 6 cylinder 2.5 l. 2door sedan coup and than take it with me
to the dealership. DO you know where or
who would be able to provide me with that info?
Eric says :I have never heard of that. Search the web I guess..?
Hello! I have LXiSebring, I want to be a member of your club and what
I need to do for it. I live in Ukraine and
there is only 3 person who has the same car so I want to find a friends
who can help me and discuss with me this
car.
I hope you help me!
Thank a lot, Vitaly.
LXiSebring: You are in the club
I have a 2003 Silver Sebring LX. It is great, but I see surface rust inthe
engine compartment. Mainly where the
welds are! I read that theEclipse, (same car) does the same and
that Mitsu won't do anythingabout it. Do
you know if Chrysler will do anything? Have you heard orseen
this?
Eric says...
I have not seen it. I'd like a picture to try and determine what is going
on. Look on the NHTSA web site under
complaints for this model. Try the Eclipse too.
Hello,,,first time email. I have a 1996.
I did a search on OBD/Readiness Driving Procedures in my Google
search and came to this site. I was impressed
with this site and all the info you have collected, NICE WORK.
Ok, so,when my car failed to pass New York State Car inspection due
to my OBDII
ODB Monitor Readiness Status:
So I guess this OBD/Readiness Prcoedures is a way that I need to drive
my car to get the test to start in my cars
computer? So how do I make my car start this test? any info will help
!!
Eric says...Does it run? Is the connector bad under the dash? Is the
engine light on? Does it have any codes? Is the
gas mileage bad?
Hi,
I have a 1997 Sebring LX. It's all stock and I'm still paying for it
actually as I bought it used. My question is, do
you or any Sebring owner you know, know if and where they have
custom front fascias for this model that isn't
so low to the ground? After bending that bottom piece of plastic back a
few times, it finally cracked. It'll cost me
about $1400 to replace and I'll still have the same problem with it being
to low. I live in Edmonton, Alberta,
Canada, so we get some pretty crummy weather here. Any assistance
you may be able to provide would be greatly
appreciated.
LXiSebring: I am not aware of any out there. Someone who reads this
might know
for sure and can contact you. This has been a problem from day 1.
I have a 99 Sebring Coupe and I have been having prob's with it
overheating the last few months... Not enough
to cook the engine but definitely enough to make me nervous. It
typically overheats while under a load, ie. climbing
a grade. Under normal driving conditions, though, I have a constant
swing in the temperature guage from
horizontal to about 25 degrees above the horizontal (just above the little
thermometer). What's worse is the fan
doesn't actually kick on until the guage hits the high mark. The
temperature increases slowly until the fan finally
kicks on and cools it down to where the gauge is horizontal again.
What's more... with the A/C on, the same fan
kicks on when the temp shows just barely above the mid-level mark.
My mechanic swears the engine is in one piece (no blown head gasket)
so he is replacing the water pump this week
(already has new stat and rad). I still have a hard time thinking the
temperature set points for the fan aren't also
screwed up somehow. Could there be a bad relay? Could someone
have hacked into my car's computer and
changed the trigger point for the coolant fan (lol)...? Oh yeah.. I also
went to Chrysler and bought the temperature
switch that triggers the fan with no effect.... Any ideas?
Eric says...
Change the coolant temp sensor and gauge sender $40
Also, the A/C will call the auxillary fan to run. If that fan turns on with
the A/C off, your too hot.
Hi,
Hoping that you can help me with my niece's
Sebring.
It is a 2.5 V-6 and I can't get it to start. I
have
changed the rotor and dist cap and no effect. I do
no
get spark while cranking. If I spray starter fluid
it
seems to try to start for 2 seconds then nothing.
Tested the wires with a light while cranking and
get
nothing. Any ideas?? And am I correct that this
year
has no chip in key? Thanks for your time.
Jay...Ohio
Eric writes...
Aftermarket Alarm ??
Could be a cam or crank sensor. Check the codes. Key
on-off-on-off-on
quickly.
Jay responds... You called it...it was the crank sensor! Thank you
for your help.
I came across Sebring owners page, thought you'd enjoy some of my
pics,
and info
visit
http://www.domestictunerz.com/index.php?&act=garage&CODE=12
&CID=90 to
see some detailed info about my ride
LXiSebring: also see photos on the photo page.
Hey
I dont know if you would have the answer to this, but I ran across your
webpage online. I have a 96 Sebring and
after a night or partying I left the key in the ignition all night. Now it
simply wont start. I called AAA and they
couldnt even jump it. I think itmay have something to do with the
security system. I lost my owners manual; any
idea what it could be??
LXiSebring:
Try locking the doors, then use the key, not the remote to open the
driver door. I have been told that turning the
key in the door lock resets the security system.
Otherwise try disconnecting the positive terminal of the battery. Leave
it disconnected a minute or two. THen
reconnect. That resets everything. Like powering down and restarting
a computer cold boot.
Sakina responds
hey david
thanks for your help. it ended up being a fuse. go figure :)
Hey i just recently purchased a 2001 sebring LXI and was wondering
if there is something I can do to get an extra
30-50 horses without doing much harm to the engine in the long run.
Also i was wondering where i could find
some pics of that chrome grill you talked about for the front.
LXiSebring: not easily as it messes up the emissions and the computer.
I ordered our 1997 Sebring Coupe for my wife for Christmas of '96. It
arrived in late January, 1997. It is "bright" white, LXi and has been
with
us for the past 8 years.
Overall it has been a great car, even though it is underpowered. The
biggest
problem that we had with it is the undersized front break rotors. They
overheat and warp and the brakes squeak. We finally solved this
problem
after many years by installing ceramic pads-fixed the warping problem
and
the squeaking problem.
My question:
The front bumper assembly (the one piece plastic part that surrounds the
grill, headlights, parking lights, etc) has become cracked by numerous
curb
run-ins. Do you know where we can buy one of these assemblies
without going
back to Chrysler? We have had the bottom part that is broken repaired
but it
just comes loose and sags.
Thanks for the help,
LXiSebring: Tough to find!! YOU might have luck at an auto recycler
(junk yard) Many
of these guys are linked on computer now and can locate pieces out of
state even.
My check engine lit keeps coming on and there is a ticking in the
engine. I am not sure what is wrong. We have had a new distributor
put
in and tune up. This is the first time we have ever had trouble with
our car at all. Please somebody help me.
Eric says...
Is this prior or post distributor and tune-up? Sounds like the EGR valve
and or system to me. Have a dealer scan for codes and replace the
necessary
faulty components.
I was wondering if you could help me find chrome center caps for
chrome 17in 10 spoke 2000 sebring or any
assistance you may have for me
LXiSEbring: The guys at www.asog.net keep track of these sorts of
things!
Hello ,i have a sebring 2003 can the engines be changed to bigger
engines
LXiSebring: Not easily as it messes up both the emissions and the
computer
module that links the engine to transmission etc, apart from the
mechanical
problems in the fit.
Pricilla
writes
I bought me '95 Sebring new and I have a problem that started 5 or 6
years ago. There is a "road noise" problem
in my right rear wheel that eventually makes every tire put there go bad.
Then I get the "wa..wa..wa" sound at
slow speed with a slight shift in the steering and the at high speeds a
good, low irritating "wawawawa." I know
that noise is from the tire ending up with unusual wear like bumps and
being dug out. But there has to be
something wrong with that wheel to keep ruining only that tire and not
the other side too so it cant be a situation
of not rotating often enough. Even with new tires (several times) the
original noise is still in the tight rear and not
the left. Is it a hub, rotor, strut...? Help! I'm tired of it!
ERIC responds
I would bet that your wheel bearing assembly is bad. Jack up the car
and tug on that wheel with your hands, try
and shake the whole wheel. It will probably have "play" in it indicating
that the bearing is worn out. This is
common, I've had 2 replaced and my front left one is bad as we speak.
This job is $300 and dealer only. Make sure
you tell them when your car was built, sticker inside the drivers door,
so they get the right parts.
Robert responds
I've had a similar problem in the past as well, both in the front and rear.
What i would recommend doing is first
removing the offending wheel (after jacking up and properly securing
the vehicle, of course) and grasping the rotor
on each side and trying to move it. Any play in any direction means that
you need to replace the bearing. The only
way to replace the bearing is to replace the entire hub. It is only sold as
an assembly. When I replaced mine they
ran about $130 per hub. To replace the hub, you must remove the brake
caliper first, then secure it out of the way.
DO NOT remove the brake line or allow the caliper to hang by the line.
I believe there are 4 or 5 bolts that hold
on the caliper and associated hardware. Then remove the rotor. The
rotor should just pull off, but you may have
to bang it a few times with a rubber mallet to loosen it. Then, there are
4 bolts on the back side that must be
removed to extract the hub assembly. After they are out, easiest way to
remove the hub assembly is to just bang
on the back of it with a hammer until it pops out. Assembly is the
reverse of removal, make sure you tighten all
bolts properly. Hope this helps. Any more questions just send me a
message. Good luck!
I've replaced one on the front and one on the back. I also repalced the
CV shaft on the front. All you need is a
Chilton's Manual, a few assorted sockets, a jack, the correct parts (Napa
and Autozone both carry the hub
assemblies), some patience, and about 6 hours of time. Don't goto the
dealer for this, you can do it yourself and
have the satisfaction of keeping about $150 of your hard-earned cash.
E-mail me if you have any questions, I'm
glad to help!
I'm not sure of the year of your car, I have a 95, but everything up to
about 97 is the same on the V6. The
transmission filter and the fluid can be changed yourself in your
driveway for about $30 (try getting a price like
that at your dealership) and only takes about an hour. It should be
changed every 10k miles to ensure long
transmission life. The transmission filter can be had at Autozone for
$10, and for fluid you will need 4 quarts of
ATF+3. This can also be had at Autozone for about $20. All you need
to do is jack the car up in the center under
the engine, high enough for you to comfortably slide under. The
transmission oil pan is on the driver's side, it a
black pan about a foot square, and is held on by 14 bolts with a 12mm
size head. Have your drainpan ready, and
slide under and begin by removing 7 of the bolts on the rear side. Move
the drainpan under the oil pan, and loosen
the 7 bolts on the front side. You may have to tap the pan with a rubber
hammer or block of wood, it should pop
loose, and the back will hang down and drain a large part of the oil.
After the oil stops pouring out, remove the
remaining bolts. Take the pan, and set aside. If you look where the pan
was, you will see the filter. It's about 6"x6"
and silver. Pull it off and discard. Allow the transmission to drain for
about 30 minutes. While you're waiting, clean
off all the old fluid and gasket material from the pan, remove the
magnet on the bottom of the pan and wipe it clean
and make sure everything is spotless. Now, position your new gasket
(should have come with the new filter) on the
pan. It will only fit one way. Now, place the o-ring that came with the
filter onto the tube on the filter's back side.
Push the filter into place on the transmission. It will only fit one way.
Now hold the pan in place and replace the
bolts in the same order they were removed, being careful that the gasket
doesn't move out of place. After all are
in, tighten them in an alternating pattern until they are all tight. Now,
use a funnel to pour all 4qts of fluid into the
transmission through the dipstick tube. After that, run the car at idle
until it reaches operating temperature. Now,
set the e-brake, push the brakes all the way down, and slowly move the
shifter through every gear 3 times, stopping
in park. With it still running, remove the tranny dipstick and check the
level. It should be between the bottom and
middle holes on the dipstick. If not, add fluid until it reaches that point.
Before you drive the car, and after about
100 miles, check the pan for leaks. If all is good, you should be set for
the next 10,000 miles, and you will notice
an immediate improvement in your shifting.
Now, I have three suggestions for anyone with this model car.
1. Purchase a Chilton's Total Car Care manual. This book tells you
literaly how to completely disassemble
and reassemble the car. It is invaluable and can be had for about $25.
The book number is 20320 and covers all
Sebring models 95-98. Amazon.com is a good place to look for one.
2. Purchase a transmission cooler. It's like an extra radiator for you
transmission and will greatly increase your
transmissions life, as well as extend the fluid capacity for better cooling
and lubrication efficiency. The one i have
is a Hayden model, and can be purchased at almost any parts store for
$35.
3. Join ASOG. This is the Avenger/Sebring Owners Group. If you have
a problem, this is the place with the
answer! If it can be fixed, replaced, modified, improved, or imagined,
these guys WILL have the solution!
I really hope this helps you. Any questions, just ask!
Hello, I was wondering if you could help me with a problem,
My Driver side front suspension is making an awful noise, mostly when
I turn
the wheel. I think it might be the control arm, have you encountered the
same problem?
Robert responds...The only time i've heard a noise like that was when
my front wheel bearing was starting to go
bad, which is a common problem with these vehicles. Mine sounded like
a horrific, shreeking, metal-on-metal sound
when i would turn the wheel to the left (it was my right bearing going
out). You should probably remove the wheels
from the front and check if there is any back and forth play from the
brake rotor. If there's no play, then you should
inspect the suspension components for damage, wear, or looseness. It
could also be that your struts are shot and
need to be replaced. Check it out, and get back to me if you need help
or instruction. Thanks!
Eric says...There was a recall, you may want to look into it. Check the
NHTSA website.
hey man i just got me a sebring 1999 lxi coupe and its fast 2.5 liter and
v6 but i need to know what can i add to
my car for performance what would it fit in to a body kit ? any
performance parts ? email me back at ducali 1200
cc
LXiSebring: check this one out withthe guys at www.asog.net who keep
track of these things.
My name is Chris Mazzarella and you can take a look at my chrysler
Sebring at
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/696430/2 tell me what you
think.
Finally somebody who can help me !!! your not going to believe me but
my chrysler has been sitting arround for about a 1 year due to the fact
that im a single parent and because when I start my car it wont stay on
so there for I cant drive it anywhere
to get fixed , I have to admit that I have had some guys look at my car
but didnt know what was really wrong I have some say there is an
electrical wire short due to the fact that the 30 amp fuse keeps burning
out after about 5 to 10 mins. of being driven, do you know how many
fuses i have bought at least 30 . please help me the car has a new
battery, if you have a wiring diagram I think it would help a great deal
better yet if YOU could come over to my place and take a look would
be a dream come true !!! I've been driving a 1992 Camaro z28
and its got to be the roughest car I know .
thank you so very much!!!
LXiSebring: I havent a clue--Let's see what eric has to say about this.
Electrical gremlins can be tough to track down. Your first clue: which
exact 30 amp fuse keeps blowing? That will tell you which circuit likely
is shorting out.
Eric Says:Is it the 30 amp fuse under the hood marked engine/motor?
That's the one that controls the ECM. It could
be the battery is too high and hitting the hood but that should be
obvious. The ECM could be shot too. I would open
the hood and start the car. Also you can remove all the fuses and replace
them one by one to try and find the
culprit. I will try and dig up a wiring schematic.
Pricilla responds
thank you once again for your responce. I am the one having the
problem with the 97 lxi sebring its the one that
keeps shortening
out the 30 amp fuse that is the one belonging to the engine
well i check to see if the battery was touching the hood its not
now but at one time it was cause there is burn mark on the inside
of the hood. but it's not anymore and the car wont stay on
it will crank up but as soon as let go of the gas pedal it dies.
do you think it could be the EMC I think that is what its called.
how would i know if that is what it is???
thank you very much
Eric says
You could try one from a junk yard, I'd take it and get it diagnosed on
a
Chrysler scan tool.
I have recently purchased a chrysler sebring year 1996, from a
gentleman that infromed me that there was some engine problems with
the
vehicle. I am a mechanic myself so I figured I could fix the car myself.
However I am stumped and was hoping you may be able to answer a
few
questions for me. The car tends to stall, and buck. And does not want
to
shift gears right. And it tends to overheat. I know already that the water
pump needs replaced and I had a diagnostics test run on the car. It
came
back that there was a problem in the wiring. I had pulled codes up with
the
key, and it came up with the IAC Valve, crank position sensor, and
cam
shaft position sensor. They came back with crank position sensor/cam
position sensor, they told me it was insdie the wiring to the PCM. If
you
have any information that would be helpful to me in anyway it would
be
greatly appreciated. You can also contact me by phone @(724)349-2996
or at
my home address which is 280 oaktree trailor court creekside
pa, 15732, As well as my email. Ask for Dave in the event that you
should
call, and you can also leave a message with my fiance Mandie.
Thankyou for
your time and I hope to hear from you soon with any help you can
assist me
with.
Eric responds
You need a service manual. You may want to replace each sensor in
question,
and possibly the PCM. I'm sure you disconnected the battery to clear
the
codes and are starting frome square one?
The Service manual supplies good info on testing the sensors. Try Ebay.
or
Chrysler.com
I just read through the website and have to say that it is really great to
have you back. I have many problems with my recently bought 96
Sebring Lxi.
I have had the car checked and the mechanic has changed the EGR valve
(check engine light), replaced all injector seals (gas smell and must be
leak), replaced the water pump (over heat). It comes out most of the
problems are gone except the check engine light still on, but this time
it
on and go and then on again (like blinking), and the car seem to lost its
power everytime that the light is gone (the RPM gose down). Moreover,
I
need to step harder on the pedal to make the car go from idle. Is that
still the problem from EGR?
Another problem is the rubbing noise when I turn the wheel. It happen
every
time when I turn it and it's very loud and annoying. I have no idea
where
it come from.
The last problem is a major rust on the moonroof. I thinking of
replacing
it and found one for 04-05 sebring on ebay. I just would like to know
that
if that will fits my 96? and how much it would costs me if I buy it from
dealer?
Thank you so much, you did a great job.
Eric responds:Blinking MIL lamp is a bad bad thing. Anyone with a
Chrysler scan tool can
do a diagnostic for you and get you pointed in the right dorection at
least.
Rubbing noise? is the tire hitting? that's easy to check. You could have
a
bad wheel bearing too, that's very common. Forget the sunroof swap
idea. I
would have a good body shop repair that rust problem if you think it's
worth
the money.
I have a 1996 Sebring LXI. there are NO interior
lights in it. none on the roof, the doors, or the
floor. No lights and it drives me nuts. Are all the
1996's like this or just mine. I can't believe they
would make a car with no interior lights.
Eric responds:Are you kidding me? The 96 w/o sunroof has a dome
light, 2 map lights, a
rear seat lamp in the arm console, and both front floor areas are lit with
yellow mood lamps. You need to get an owners manual and put these
back in.
I want to join. I've been a member of ASOG for about 2 years now, and
i've done just about everything on the 2.5
engine. Just recently I replaced the timing belt, water pump, acc belt,
painted LOTS, plugs, plug wires, removed
egr system, and added some nice new parts. Specs:
1995 Chrysler Sebring
I have good pics of the car here:
http://www.cardomain.com/id/ramtekracing
Thank you, and i look forward to joining your community!
LXiSebring: Thank you. I will send you some questions as they come
in if you want to try answering them
Hi, I recently had my transmission fluid changed at 50k mi. I went to
a Chrysler dealership and they flushed the
trans. fluid. I inquired about the trans. filter. They said that because
the filter is hard to get to, it was not
changed. Doesn't it need to be changed as well?
Thanks, Blake
LXiSebring: Not sure--you might want to check with another dealer.
hello i was wondering if you can tell me how to take off and install a
transmission shift solenoid. If you can help
me please email me back.
thank you
melinda
LXiSebring: I haven't a clue on that one
LXiSebring: Its the outside diameter of the rim/tire combination that
matters.
You should not exceed the stock outside diamerter. A good wheel/tire
store should
be able to tell you exactly the combinations that will work.n For
example, an 18 inch rim
might work but only with some 40 series tires.
LXiSebring: Great: That's the higfhest-milage Sebring I've heard of..
Are there others out there with
even more miles?
I have some comments regarding my 1996 Chrysler Sebring. I have had
many problems with this car. Two rear wheel bearings had to be
replaced
in the past three years, replacement of the radiator, major work to the
AC. The thing I think you will find most interesting is in Dec 2004 I
had a major mechanical break down which could of turned out a lot
worse
than it did. I was traveling about 45 mph on a highway and lost all
control of the car skidding 150 feet across the road, missing a
telephone pole by 50 ft and coming to rest on the berm of the road. The
ball joint broke loose causing the axle to fall out from underneath the
car. I called Chrysler asking about a recall and was informed there
never was one. Upon further investigation using the internet I found
there was a recall in 2001 and the car was inspected at that time.
After the repair two days later oil was running out of the engine. The
cam, rear seal and head gasket was leaking. I contacted Chrysler and
they sent an inspector out. Chrysler paid for most of the repairs to
the car. Needless to say now I am very nervous about the car when
driving it. I feel in light of what happened to me Chrysler should
recall these cars again and replace the ball joint for free. I was
really lucky another car or semi was not coming the other way and
didn't
get physically hurt. I wouldn't want this to happen to anyone else.
Thank you.
LXiSebring: If you are nervous about driving a car hte best thing to do
probably is to
trade it as soon as you can.
I just got done looking at your site and have a question. I have a 96
lxi sebring, and I have done little things
to it (flow masters, cold air intake) but lately it has been over heating.
first the thermestat whent out, then it was
the cap. now its just lossing water and i dont know where. I think it
could be comming from the water pump.It is
a great car but it has been a pain in the ass for me. the motor is a
mitsubishi v6 24 valve 2.5L. The cap pressure
is 0.9. This car can kick some ass. so far i have hit 130 in it but ran
out of road. as well do you know if there
has been any sighns of the trani going out in these cars.so if you know
about any recalls or any thing else that would
help me out...i would greatly be thankfull of it.
LXiSebring: This COULD be a bad head gasket given that you arent
seeing any water on the floor.
Yes it could be the head gasket but thier is no smoke comming out of
my pipes and i am losing water fast when
i drive so i dont think it is the water pump.
Thanks
Shane
p.s. as well i have a v-6 24/V i think i have the wrong cap on it it has
a mitubishie motor in it with a little cap that
has o.9 on it. i whent to get it replaced and they gave me the wrong
size. would u know what size it is (lbs) and
maybee a pic of your motor so i can compare.
LXiSebring: If you are losing a lot of water and its not on the floor its
gotta be going through the engine somehow--
unless its going out the radiator as steam. This makes no real sense
unless the head
gasket is leaking. Get the proper cap at the dealer parts dept at a
nominal cost.
I found your web site and tried to e-mail a question to Eric. The e-mail
was returned. Is he still around?
LXiSebring: About six months ago Eric took down his e-mail address
and simply disappeared.
He never left even me an alternative email contact. I concluded he didn't
want to try
to answer questions any more. I know he was involved with a dispute
with Chrysler over a Stratus he owned, but that's all I know in terms of
explanation.
Eric made many great contributions here and knows way more about the
technical
details of Sebrings than I do. I am sill hoping he will decide to
reappear at some point.
T
Hi there, I have a 1998 Sebring LXi, Black with Gray
interior, Leather Seats, Power everything, moon roof, Infinity
cd/cassette with Amplifier in the back. and it was a one owner car,
with
me being the second owner, and the previous owner had a remote
starter put
in it.. my car only has 53,000 miles on it, and runs like a dream,
the
more I drive it the more I like it... you have a great site with some
great information, however I have a couple of question while reading
your
forum, that I didn't see answer, the first one being is
How far does the gas gauge have to drop before the low fuel light comes
on?, I've had mine almost sitting on the E mark, before I became
worried
about running out somewhere,. not close to a gas station and it doesn't
come on...... I'm wondering does it go pretty low before it comes on,
or
possibly a bulb burnout...
LXiSebring: I'm guessing about 2 gallons in the gas tank, so maybe 50
miles on the highway.
LXiSebring: Sounds like a loose or corroded connection, but how to fix
I dunno.
If you can get the connectors loose I'm thinking electrical contact
cleaner froM
Radio shack--but that is just a thought. I've not dug into one of these.
And Lastly, I also have about 3 small white scuff marks on the
drivers
side and on the bottom front bumper where the license plate is the ones
on
the drivers side look like a shopping car has rubbed up against it, and
the
one on the bumper looks like a parking spot concrete stop has got
it... what would be the best way to get them off and get the original
finish back... they don't look like nothing more but surface scuffs, not
scratches...
LXiSebring: The material of choice is an automotive POLISHING
compound,or even more delecate, the
similar fine silver polishes. Rubbing compound works but has a coarser
grit and tends to
dull the clear coat and eventually remove it entirely, Put the polishing
compound on a soft rag and rub. One of those
round plastic curley cate dish washing things also works to remove
stuff--dont use the metal kind as they will scratch
the paint.
Follow this all with paste wax. If this doesnt do it, you might try a little
0000
steel wool, but this will also dull the clear coat. A slightly dull finish
may be preferable to the paint scrape,
however. Don't go in for the heavier duty stuff until you are absolutely
certain the polishing
compound doesn't resolve the problem
I also have a 98 Chrysler Sebring LXI, that would stall after first
starting it. Sometimes I could get it started by
pumping the gas and other times it would not start. It turned out that the
Idler Air Control Motor wires came
unhooked. Once the wires were hooked back up properly, so far it has
been fine.
Another problem we had, the car was pulling to the right when applying
the brakes. After having new brakes and
rotors put on there was still a problem. There was about 800 lbs. more
pressure being applied to the pasengers side
brakes Finally, after driving the car about a week the real problem
showed up. The lower ball joint ended up
putting pressure against the wheel. Once the lower ball joint was
replaced, everything seems to be fine.
I would like to be added to your site. Hope this info helps some one
out.
LXiSebring:My guess from this vantage point is a fuel system
emmisions
control sensor problem, but its only a gyuess. When the check engine
like comes on it stores a code in the computer which the dealer then
reads out to diagnose the exact problem. The vast majority of these are
emmissions and
fuel system related. Without that code its tough to tell.
Whoever tried to fix the problem the first time didnt get it right. Was
this a dealer? One thing dealers usually do better than aftermarket repair
people is fuel system emissions control diagnosis. Since the check
enginre light
came on again this shouldnt be difficult to track down.
Hi, just was browsing your site. I just bought a Sebring 2002. I'm
looking
for information on the 2.7 efi V six.
I'm taking an intense interest in this car after driving one I was referred
to by a Chrycho salesman. The one I test drove had a 110 thousand
klicks
but it still kicked ass. And then I had an opportunity to take out a
completely rebuilt one the insurance company had written off. It was
just as
much a thrill. And this one only had 53,000 Klicks on it.
What I was wondering was how long the warranty is on both the
transmission
and engine?
LXiSebring: 60,000 miles I think.
Hi! Know anything about replacing/repairing the front bumper cover for
a 2005? Is it just a matter of unscrewing some bolts? Thanks for any
info!
LXiSebring: I dunno but someone reading this might.
Hope you can help. I have a 2001 LXi Sebring coup w/ auto trans and
about
26,000 miles.
This problem started happening about 2 weeks ago. When I am driving
above
40 or 50 mph and turn the wheel slightly to the left, like turning into a
curve on the highway there is a continous noise coming from the right
front
end. Like a humming that goes hmmm, hmmm, hmmm, but does not
goes as fast
as the tires are turning. It gets louder and more apparent the faster I
go. The alignment of my car is slightly off and drifts to the right if
that would have any effect. Have you ever heard of anything like this
before.
LXiSebring: THis could be a front wheel bearing/constant
velocity joint problem. Have this checked'
by a dealer pronto as it could be dangerous
I just purchased a 1999 Chrysler Sebring for my son which has a heated
rear view mirror with compass. The rear
view mirror has an 8 pin connector on the harness side which has 6
wires going to it. The wires were pulled out
of the connector and I can figure out the wire order, I believe pin 1 and
8 are empty. Can you give me the color
codes of the wires and their pin out location?
Thanks,
LXiSebring: I don't know but someone reading this might.
Hi, I've had my 96 Sebring for almost two years. Several months after
I bought it, the alarm started going off every
time I parked it. I pulled the horn fuse so at least it doesn't sit there and
honk for two minutes, but the lights still
flash. I thought it was just going off once per setting, but lately I've
seen it go off up to four times in an hour. Any
Suggestions? Thankyou Clinton Berreth
LXiSebring: on 95 and 96 models the hood doesnt hold the alarm switch
along the left edge of the engine compartment (passenger side). THe
permanent cure is a little wad of electrical tape in the indentation just
above the
switch. Its exacerbated by drive the car in hot weather. THe hood flexes
a bit and sets off the alarm.
HELLO
I'm from Poland (Europe) i'm looking MAP SENSOR OE#4671276 to
my CHRYSLER SEBRING COUPE LX;
year-1996; engine V6 2.5L; VIN:N . Please help me which on-line shop
in U.S. sells this parts and sending them
from U.S. to Ploand (Europe) because I find shops who sells only in
U.S. . I need internet's adress. Who
manufactured is good KEM or STANDARD or ells. Sorry for my
english. THANKS.
My e-mail: mariusz.thorg@interia.pl
LXiSebring: If this is a regular Chrysler part you might try contacting
a parts source through
www.chrysler.com
I am very frustrated due to spending more than $700 to get my car to
stop cutting off and I still have the problem.
First a tune-up to no avail. Then and IAC replacement. This was done
after misfire codes during diagnostics
indicated the IAC needed to be replaced. It was changed, the
diagnostics said all was well but it still cuts off. At
every stop I make after driving at normal speeds the rpms start to drop
and I have to catch it and slip it to neutral
to deep the motor from stalling. One shop said I could replace all the
parts one at a time but could not be sure
whether the egr or fuel filter or whatever, would ultimately be the
solution. I simply can't afford to experiment
in this manner. This has to be something that has shown up on other
Sebrings? I got the car at 115,000 and the
problem started at 116,000. Any ideas or similar complaints? I would
sure appreciate being pointed in the right
direction.
LXiSebring: you need to get a different service department, one who
doesnt chasrge you for running mechanuic
diagnosis,
to look at this.
I have a question....I recently bought a 2000 Sebring LXI, on my sun
visor I have 3 buttons.I have no idea what
they are for, do you have a clue?I thought they might be to open my
sunroof , however I have a switch above my
rear view mirror that takes care of that.Totally stumped, this car was
purchased from a auction and had no manual
that came with it , any information would be helpful.
Thanks
LXiSebring Those are for a garage door opener. Its a standard code
built into the car so you dont need to carry
aound a remote opener. IF you dont have a remotely controlled garage
door they are just there.
I just purchased a used 1997 Sebring with 63K miles and in immaculate
shape. It ran great and I was very proud
of the car until a month after ownership. Being a used car I opted
against warranty of any kind, being that I had
a full coverage on the car, I felt it wasn't needed. I started having
problems with the ignition of the car. It would
have start up noise but would never seem to have enough to turn over.
After getting it towed to my mechanic he
explained it was problems with the coil(s). He said this is a reoccurring
problem with Sebrings and I just wanted
to let you know in case you kept any kind of record of this for your site.
Two weeks after having the car back the
lower panel of the drivers side door flew off while driving from Denver
to Pueblo Colorado. Needless to say, after
turning around and picking the panel off the road I needed to order a
new one.. this thing was thrashed. Am I the
only one you've heard of having these issues or have others had the
same? I can understand an engine problem..
even at 63K, it happens. But in no circumstance should a panel of the
car just fly off while driving.
Thanks for the site, lots of valuable information.
J. Ted Bateman, CSP
LXiSebring: Both of these are common problems. On the early models
those little plastic clips break and the only
solution is to replace the entire panel as the clips are molded right into
hte panel. 1997
seems to be a particularly bad year for this to happen.
Often the starting problem is battery related, but sometimes you have to
dig deeper and i have heard of various
fixes.
I have several engine questions involving my 96 sebring. It is the 2
door coupe model. First is my check engine light comes on every now
and then. What should I do? Next, my anti-lock light is always on.
What should I do. Also my fuse that controls the engine I believe it is
called the engine regulator fuse often blows when I accelerate hard.
Next and last, i was driving today and my power steering shut down and
my battery light came on. I heard a loud pitched noise then thud thud
thud and that si when it happened. I think i blew my power steering
belt but I want to know where the belt is located so I can check/and fix
it. Thanks for your help.
THe check engine light is probably related to the failure of an emissions
sensor. If it goes off again I wouldn't worry, if it stays on, you need to
get a dealer diagnosis. There are generally not diy. THe anti-brake light
could be a serious problem with hte ABS that would cost $1000 to fix,
as you could need a completely new ABS unit. Or it could just be a bad
connection or similar, cheap to fix. On this old a car, some owners
simply opt to go w/o ABS and just have the dealer just disconnect the
unit. How useful ABS is seems open to question. I've seen statisticks
that show drivers with ABS tend to stop quicker and run into fewer
people but tend to be involved in more collisions in which the ABS car
is rear-ended!
I wonder if you can help me.
After driving my 2003 Sebring LX 2.7L, and parking, and taking my
key
out of the ignition, and trying to exit the car, ..the horn sounds and
won't stop until I re-start the car briefly and shut it off again...at
that point, I can leave the car and lock it without the horn sounding..
Have you come across this yet?
If so, what can I do to cure the problem?
Thanks,
Adrian.
LXiSebring: NOt quite, but I suspect its a problem with either the
underhood alarm security switch, the trunk switch or a door panel
security switch. This is one for the dealer. I'm no big fan of these alarm
systems.
Hi, I recently purchased a 2001 Chrysler Sebring LX. I dont know if
this
car is already equipped with an alarm system, but if it is, could you tell
me what I have to do get it to work? I think the owner before me
turned it
off. The remote keyless entry works fine. Also, I live in Wisconsin,
where
the weather can get to 15 below (-15 degrees). When I start the car up
on
these such days, it does not have trouble starting, but it does this high
pitched siren thing for about 5-10 seconds, is this something I should
worry
about? I was reading the different emails under your site, but there was
too many to try to find the answer to my question, so I am sorry if these
are repeated questions you get often. Please get back to me asap, and
let
me know, thanks alot, Felicia
THe alarm systems really require a dealer diagnosis. I'm wan't even
aware there was
a switch that could turn it off and on.
Good Day: I, too, have a 97 Sebring, silver w/ the same rims. It has
had
some major repairs, as expected for its age. I would like to locate an
after factory parts dealer in Ontario or Canada. I would like new head
light covers. The front grill/pumper is damaged because it sits to close
to
curbs and the like. Nothing to do w/the driver. Any suggestions for
this
pretty car?
LXiSebring: you might want to try the guys at www.asog.net for
aftermarket parts sources
Hi, I have a 1995 Sebring CXi V-6 that I need to sell. It has about
65,000 miles on it and is in very good shape.
It has new brakes, timing belt, O2 sensors and has been well cared for.
I'm asking $4500 for it and live in
Anchorage Alaska. Thanks.
Shouldn't be tough to track down or fix.
It sounds to me like the alarm switch on the passenger side door has
problems.
I have owned my Sebring LX for about 4 years now. At first I was a
little
leary about a chrysler of any kind, but the guy insisted I get in and take
it for a test drive. I was pleasantly surprised to see it was a 5 spd.
Needless to say that after the test drive I drove it home. I bought the
car
with 70K miles, and have since put another 150K on it, with only
standard
tune ups. This may sound like a feat to some, but this 150K includes
street
racing in Jacksonville, FL and my drive across the country from King's
Bay
Naval Submarine Base in GA to Naval Station Kitsap in Silverdale, WA
(wich
only took me 27 hours) These cars are great, and I swear by them now.
After all of the abuse I finaly got a rod knocking. It's a great excuse to
rebuild her and see how much more she's willing to give.
I have a 1996 Sebring LXi, it looks just like yours and it wont start. Is
there anything that we should do besides
what we have done. put a new crank sensor in it check the fuel in take.
There are no codes, but the engie light did
come on and was on for awhile before it did this. This happened one
onther time but we got it to start. It truns over
and the lights work and all that.
LXiSebring: you need a dealer diagnosis on this one!
I have a 2001 Sebring and I have looked over your web site for an
answer to
my problem. When I turn the key to start the car all that happens is the
lights flash once the horn beeps once and the car will not start. I have
read about the battery issues with the car and am wondering if these
symptoms are conducive with a poor battery. I bought the car used two
months
ago and I am unaware of the condition/age of the battery. The car has
lights
and heater as well as wiper action, however when the key is turned to
the
acc. position I don't get any radio. The car has 42,000km on it.
LXiSebring: This is a problem with the chip on the key or with the
security alarm
system
Hello, My name is Harry. - I have a 1998 Sebring LXI with 84K miles.
The "Service Engine" light has been on steady for about (8) months (@
72K miles). A chrysler dealer said the codes indicate the car is running
lean, though the performance is fine. (However I think I am burning
more gas). Anyway, the dealer induction cleaned the fuel injectors for
approx. $225. The light then went on/off for about 2 weeks and then
again stayed on. The dealer said the next step is to replace all (6)
injectors to the tune of $1700 (Mitshubishi parts). HELLO- I don't think
so - the performance is fine. Also during this period I have had, all by
local mechanics, (2) oxygen sensors, air filter & the fuel filter (not in
gas tank) replaced. The intake has also been vacuum tested. Today, I
spent $350 for annual PA inspection with two- thirds of the amount
spent to get an emission waiver (New PA law-car won't pass with
service engine light on. Must spend $150 minimum towards problem,
hence (1) of the above mentioned oxygen sensors). - Should I have the
injectors cleaned again (I'm not replacing them), tune-up? Help &
Thanks.
LXiSebring:
I'd try a service department at a different dealer. You need a second
opinion.
I love my Sebring, and have put many a mile on it, but now I have a
problem that maybe someone out there can help me with. My car alarm
is going off, and I can't find any info on what to do! I've changed the
batteries in the remote, pulled the fuses, and still the alarm goes off!
Help!
LXiSebring: USUALLY this is a problem with the hood not holding
down the underhood security alarm switch (passenger side, midway
along the edge of hood. The permanent cure is a piece of sticky back
foam or even a wad of electrical tape placved directly over the
indentation in the hood that inadequately holds the switch down.
Hey, I have been to this site many times in hope to find answers to my
problems with the car. It has helped me a quite a bit. Now I have
another problem that I can't seem to figure out. I have a 1997 Sebring
LXi (2.5L) with 128,000 miles on it. About 3 months ago, I gave the
car a super tuneup with the Chrysler dealer, where they did a tune up
and replaced several other parts that were not "working." Anyway,
recently, the car has been hesitating/stumbling while I accelerate. And
just lately, the car stalled on me on the highway after a barrage of these
stumbling jerks. After the car stalled, the Check Engine light turned on.
I took it to the dealer to have it checked, and the light turned off. They
couldn't find anything wrong with the car and blamed it on the gas.
I went through several different types of gas, tried many additives and
cleaners, I even tried dry gas/water removers to defeat the condensation
excuse. And the stumbling still occurs. And this stumbling occurs with
moderate acceleration at ANY speed, meaning it happens at 30mph,
55mph, 60mph, 80mph and so on. I am starting to think that it was my
spark plugs or wires that may be causing this, but before I throw down
the cash to have it replaced, I did some research. Now I'm totally
confused because it could be the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap,
vacuum hoses, EGR valves, idle speed motor, onboard computer,
clogged fuel filter or fuel line, and oxygen sensors.
Rather than to throw all of this at the dealer, who apparently doesn't
care what I say because I know nothing and only goes by the computer
readings than actually doing real mechanic work, I want to have a place
to start that shelling out a million dollars to troubleshoot every part on
this car. I tried to make the car shut off again and give me the Check
Engine light, but I can't seem to do it. I was told to only bring it back
when the light is on. But if the light turns off, then I doubt they will be
replacing the right thing to make my car run correctly.
Any ideas what could be causing my problem? Any experiences that
may have happened to others with the same model as mine.
Best Regards,
LXiSebring: Start by disconnecting the battery. Leave it disconnected for
a few minutes and that will reset the computer. I hate to say this, but the
service dept likely messed something up while doing the major tuneup.
What I dunno. zObviously they don't know either. I think you need to
try another dealer if the computer resetting trick doesnt accomplish
anything. To me this sounds like an emmisions-related sensor problem
but that's just a wild guess.
I have a 1998 Chrysler Sebring and I need to find out how to replace a
headlight lens, can you help me?
LXiSEbring: I'm not sure but someone who reads this will likely know
and contact you. Eric??
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Alfred writes
1 the stop and tail light fuses keeps on blowin ????? what should i do
James writes
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Josh writes
Mikhail
Ratchkovski writes
Anthony writes
Dana writes
Probably the best vehicle I've ever owned..I hate to give it up and
because I installed a rust-proof device, this baby
looks like ti just stepped out of the showroom.
Marie writes
Bob writes
John writes
Dodebs writes
Susan writes
Sertac writes
My cigarettle lighter does not work and I figured may be the fuse needs
to be changed. When I looked at the box,
I saw that the cover is missing. So I dont know which fuse is for the
cigarette lighter.
Is there anyway you can help me out having a picture of the fuse box
diagram or tell me which one is for the
lighter?
Bob Bigwood writes
Ssheil writes
Anita writes
Kristina
writes
Orseno writes
LXiSebring: A Body shop might be able to repair some cracks in
inconspicuous places with fiberglass tape and body
putty.
Diana writes
HEIDI writes
Great info on the website, hope you can help me with this problem!
The locks/windows control unit on the drivers-side door armrest in my
'96
Sebring LXI came loose & fell through into the door panel. The unit
still
functions (if you stick your fingers through the holes to reach the
controls!), but I want to reposition it back where it belongs. I haven't
taken the door panel off yet, for fear of unintentionally disconnecting or
breaking something...so I thought I'd ask for help first. Is it as simple
as removing the perimeter door panel screws & taking the door panel off
to
access whatever holds the unit in place? Can you please tell me what
I need
to do to reattach?
Steve
Vasilopus writes
Melissa Parker
writes
Bill Tabor writes
Bryent writes
Nick writes
Fred writes
Clock
Trip Odometer
AM/FM Radio
Air Conditioning
CD Player
Rear Shoulder Harness
Remote for Keyless Entry
Rear Defroster
Power Sunroof
Cup holder
Map Lights
Reclining Seats
Leather Seats
Vanity Mirror
Tachometer
Interior Wood Trim
Carpeting
Power Door Locks
Bucket Seats
Tilt Steering Wheel
Cruise Control
Power Mirrors
Anti-lock Brakes Power Steering
Power Door Locks
Cassette Player
Tilt Wheel
Air Conditioning
Power Driver Seat
CD Player
Custom Wheels
Cruise Control
Power Windows
Sliding Sunroof
I think I'll be a Chrysler buyer from now on!
Javier writes
Chad writes
Bruce writes
Vitaly writes
jason writes
EricD NY Writes
catalyst--------------------------------Not Ready
Evaporative System---------------Not Ready
Oxygen Sensor---------------------Not Ready
Oxygen Sensor Heator----------Not Ready
EGR System------------------------Not Ready
Andrew writes
Rob writes
Jay writes
Robert Melton writes
Sakina writes
Brandon writes
Donnie
writes
Randalyn
writes
Caralon writes
Clay writes
Blake wonders
how to replace the transmission fluid and
filter
Robert writes
Attilio writes
cc writes
Chris writes
Pricilla writes
David writes
Na writes
Toni writes
Robert Morgan writes
2.5 V6 a604 A/T with Hayden Tranny Cooler
Bright White/ Gray clad
Custom Painted Engine
JDM strut tower bar
RamTek Racing custom banner
Cold Air Intake
I am interested in becoming a technical advisor or answering members
questions if i can. Every little bit helps,
right?
Blajke writes
Melinda
writes
Darrell W.
Branch writes
My name is Darrell Branch and I've purchased an '97 Lxi last year and
I love it! I did recently have to have the
tranny rebuilt, and I am currently having a problem getting my drivers
side rear wheel berring assembly repaired.
I want to try to bring my 97 Sebring back to its original luster as it does
need very minute body work up front due
to a minor fender-bender the previous owner had. I also wanted to know
what is the largest size of rims that could
be placed on this car without suspension modifications. Please help me
get into 'Da Club'!
Chuck writes
Just FYI.. my 1997 Chrysler Sebring LX was just traded in for a 2002
Sebring
LXI.
The 1997 passed 200,747 when traded and I think still had another
50,000
left in it. Fun car - just wants to keep driving.
Chuck
Cathy writes
shane writes
Andy Burden writes
Darin Sebastian writes
Second, I also have one of those rear view mirrors, that has the
compass/lights built into the mirror with the auto dimming feature, well
sometimes the compass comes on and sometimes it doesn't;and when it
does
come on it doesn't stay on long... is there an easy fix to this or would
I
have to replace the mirror itself..
Dick Smith writes
Elizabeth D.
Corbett writes
Hi,
I just saw your site on-line. My car is giving me a little trouble. I
had it looked at because it has been missing
alot. I got it back and now it really runs bad. Also the "check engine
light comes on". It seems like it is starting
to use oil. I change my oil every 3,000 miles regularly. Do you think
you could have a solution for me?
Thanks,
Elizabeth
I will post some pictures as soon as I get my digital camera in...
Thanks again for a great Website
Darin
Ian Evans writes
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writes
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writes
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writes
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Nebesny writes
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George Leblanc
writes
Hi There,
This site has been very helpfull. My name is George Leblanc and I
have
a 1995 Sebring Lxi. I am having aproblem with the alam system. The
only way to disarm it is to open the passenger side door. Is there any
way to disarm it totally?
Any Suggestions?
Joel Sluyter
writes
Rene Eash
writes
Keith writes
Harry writes
Lei Anne writes
Bryent writes
Gerald Barnett writes