The Chrysler Sebring Coupe Owners' Page--2005 Listings

The 2004-05 Sebring Coupe

Below is the 2001-02 model for comparison.

This Web site is devoted to providing information about Chrysler Sebring COUPE (NOT Convertible or Sedan owners). Information and photos of your car should be sent to the site operator at I have only a limited amout of mechanical knowledge. Further, I know very little about aftermarket parts. The people who keep track of aftermarket parts are at

LXiSebring's '95 LXi

Carlos' marvelous "new" '98 Sebring is featured this week

Eric (Mr. Tech) is Back!!

Eric has rejoined the board and is willing to continue to answer a limited number of technical questions related to Sebrings. He has indicated to me that he feels most comfortable dealing with technical questions relating to the 1st gen (95-96) and 2nd Gen (97-2000) Sebrings. He says that the older, out of warranty car owners are the ones that he can help out the most. His new e-mail address is

News: A Sad Day

Chrysler has recently announced that the next gen Sebring coupe will only be available as a sedan and convertible but sadly, not as a coupe. There is all sorts of weird info on the Web about the Sebring coupe, with one place indicating that the Sebring coupe is already discontinued and another indicating there will be a coupe through 2006 so I'm not exactly certain for how long the coupe you will continue. The official Chrysler Web Site makes no mention of any of this.

Here are some of the complexities--Mitsu has been doing engineering work for everything Chrysler/Dodge passenger car smaller than the 300. That includes Stratus, Sebring sedan & convertible, PT Cruiser and Neon. Also the 4 door Charger is floating around somewhere in all of this. Apparently these engineers are now all but employed by Daimler Chrysler as Daimler had allowed their small car engineering staff of their own to disappear--Mitsu was to have done all that engineering work. There was a big fight at Daimer whereby Jurgen Schrempp, the CEO, wanted to keep funding Mitsu and the Board wanted to quit giving them money. THe Board won. But that still left the problem of what to do with the cars under development by Mitsu engineers. This past week Mitsu announced they were trying to sell their North American operations, which largely consists of Diamond-Star Motors in Normal Illinois, where Sebring/Stratus coupes are built as well as Eclipses and Galants which used the same underpinnings. Meanwhile, all the current Sebring Converts and Stratus Sebring Sedans come off of what was known as the Chrysler P (think "cloud cars") car chassis assembled in Hermosillo Mexico-- a short distance across the Texas border where Chrysler has a big assembly plant. No doubt it's a lot cheaper to build cars in Hermosillo than in Normal and the Normal factory never was anywhere near running full production as Mitsu cars never did sell well. But you see how the coupes got lost in all of this. Meanwhile coupes arent exactly rising in sales relative to the other models and only a few soldier on--I'm not sure how long even Solara or Accord coupe are for this world. The Solara is built right here in Lexington, Kentucky, but I dont think it has sold very well either--the styling looks, well, "Asian". The previous model, more Sebring-like, looked better.

I'm not sure who would be inyterested in buying the Mitsu US assembly plant as the world isn't exactly short of production capacity and thats a relatively high cost operation compared with a Mexican site. This has turned into a Royal mess.

Chrysler COULD come up with a fold down hardtop version of the convertible. Convertibles that avoid the Canvas are all the rage and it wouldn't seem to me to be difficult to design a hardtop that is made of plastic not canvas and folds down. The really weird part is Chrysler now has the next generation coupe body all ready for production, except that it has had its top chopped off. Maybe one of those aftermarket places would make me a permanent top for a fee. As these kinds of remodeling things go it shouldn't be impossible or outrlandishly costly...surely easier than removing a top. It would certainly catch the attention of Sebring Coupe owners everywhere.

I also suspect there might be a Chrysler logo version of the Dodge Charger eventually, but more likely with 4 doors than 2 Yuck. By the way that was a big fight inside Dodge and in the end they came up with a design that has 4 doors but you have trouble seeing where the rear doors are. The purists wanted 2 but the bean counters said 2 wouldnt sell.

Older News: Daimler Chrysler pulls the plug on Mitsubishi

Daimler Chrysler announced that they are pulling the plug on their financial investment in MItsubishi. Whether this is the end of Mitsubishi is unclear. Chrysler is writing off their investment (which was about a third of the stock of the company) unless a buyer can be found. What's weird is that this had been the corporate strategy into the mid-priced Asiam market.

This is the opportunity for owners of Chrysler Sebring Coupes to tell everyone about their cars. To be included in the Chrysler Sebring Owners' Page and be a part of the internet "club," simply e-mail me with information about your car. I've changed the format a bit so that the newest owners now appear at the top of the file.


I am not a customer service representative for you, and while you might feel good by writing a letter that vents your anger over a problem with your car or your dealer, we are not going to post letters that identify an individual dealer, nor act as your advocates for you in these disputes. My experience has been that most service departments will try hard to deal with a customer complaint, but they too have limits in terms of what they are able to do. Further, if you do not feel that you are getting adequate service at your dealer, get a second opinion ata second dealership, calmly explaining what the problem is and what the first dealer attempted to do that did not repair the problem. Service people are human too and if you go in angry, chances are you won't get their best work on your behalf.

Go to the owners'Photo Page The Photo Page HAS MOVED. Send me a note at if you see problems with your photo. There are still a few broken photos.

The Sebring Coupe owners' page will be moving soon too. I will keep you posted. return to The Obscure Facts Page

Sebring Coupe Archives

Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2005

Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2004

Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2003

Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2002

Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2001

Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2000

Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 1999

Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 1998

Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 1997

Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed during 1996

return to The Obscure Facts Page

For those of you who are actually looking for the Sebring CONVERTIBLE, to my knowledge no one currently maintains a similar site for convertible owners. We don't deal with Sebring Convertibles or Sedans here because they are different cars built on different chasses in an entirely different plant. Sebring coupes are built by Mitsubishi employees based loosely on the Galant/Eclipse chassis (these cars are also built there). The Convertibles and Sedans are built on a Chrysler-designed "P" car chassis and assembled by Chrysler employees in Chrysler plants. Even the V6 used in the Coupe is different from the one used in sedans and convertibles. The 200 hp coupe engine in the 2001 is a high output 3.0 Mitsubishi V6. The 200 hp V6 used in the sedans andconvertibles is an all-Chrysler engine first used a couple years ago in the Intrigue/Concorde redesign. The coupe engine is used on the Eclipse and Galant as well.

Also, check out

The Avenger Sebring Owners Group (ASOG) Website

The MOPAR website

MOPAR Chatroom

MOPAR Auction

Note: Please e-mail Eric or me any Coupe problems you have and the solutions, if any.

The Official Chrysler web site

I hadn't stopped by the Official Chrysler Website ( for quite awhile. I was amazed to see the many things that were available. What caught my eye was that you can order owner's manuals and factory service manuals directly off of a site button. I checked the price for an owner's manual for my '95, and it was a very reasonable $6. So if you need an owner's manual or serbvice manual for your Sebring that is the place to go!

Also interesting was the fact that you could get a price quote on any Chrysler Corp vehicle. I gather this works somewhat like and undoubtedly there is a connect to dealers in your area. This may not work out to be the final deal, but these sorts of things certainly help limit the search (and the pain of negotiating with greasy sales managers over a few dollars).

On a side note, a local dealer (Lexington KY) is advertizing new 2002 Sebring LXi coupes that have a sticker of 25K+ for 19,700. I gather this is one with all the regular LXi features, V6, and auto, but without the ABS, leather or the sun roof.

Aftermarket parts

LXiSebring: I had this note relative to body parts for convertibles, but maybe the same company would be interested in doing coupe parts as well.

Leu writes

Hello and thank you for your time. I am a proud owner of a 1997 Chrysler Sebring Convertible but as you might already know there are not many after marker Accessory for our car's. i would like to put a hood scoop or a spoiler around the fender's. they make these parts for just about any car but the Sebring Convertible, i finally found a company that will start to make the parts for our car's, but only if i can get 15 or more other Sebring Convertible owner's to contact them in support of this. The more the better but I would like your help in this if you would. Please let me know what you think of this. here is the company information that you will need to contact them.

Pakfeifer Canada Products Chrysler Body Kits E-mail Address is

Here is there Web site

Or just go to a search engine and type in Pakfeifer Canada Products Chrysler Body Kits

again thank you for your time

A V6 owner wrote

here is a link to the supercharger kit for the 2.5 liter v-6. it gave me about 80 extra horsepower at the wheels but i had to add a transmission oil cooler. it was a pretty difficult installation. it worth the 4000 dollars. it comes with Blow-Off Valve, FMU fuel control, inline fuel pump, boost and a/f meter, silicone hoses, and SC to throttle body pipes. I used a k&n air filter.


you will need a custom exhaust. i made a cat back 2.5 in with a high flow cat and dual chrome plated mufflers. the charger is really hard on the transmission.

So there is a supercharger out there but I wouldnt expect Chrysler to do warranty work on a vehicle so modified. and your transmission may quickly end up as a heap of oil and metal filings on your garage floor! There are a limited number of aftermarket parts available. No, I dont know of any ground effects kits or clear taillights. THe guys at keep closer track of this stuff than I do. This is what I know so don't expect to learn any more by writing me.

If you want a custom spoiler painted in your body color they are about $245 at

If you want custom gauges the kits in various colors are about $107 at, but only for 95-2000 models (yet)

I have not purchased anything from any of these companies so this is not an endorsement of any of these but is just information for you.

Instrument Cluster Repairs (roger yenke) To: For the servicing of the common problems associated with the instrument cluster. If interested please email to Roger Yenke (

Replacing batteries in remote keyless entry transmitters

I had an interesting experience when the remote Keyless entry no longer worked on my car. I presumed it was time for battery replacement, My unit is from 1995, and I'm not sure if the design changed significantly in later years or not. Anyway here is what I ran into. I first pried the two sides of the keychain transmitter apart. If you have fairly long fingernails you can actually carefully pry the two sides apart. At that point, one of the two batteries will fall out in your hand. The batteries are quarter-sized number CR2016, and the Energizer replacement is readily available in the jewelry counter at KMart (2.99 each) or in the photography counter at Wal Mart (1.99). Figuring out how the batteries go in is a bit of an issue. They actually fit one on top of the other, with the plus (flatter) side of both of the the batteries toward the springs in the cover section. The slightly rounded negative side of the battery fits against the shiny flat circle on the bottom where the transmitter part actually is. I reassembled and it works (it didn't work with the batteries installed upside down). I would be interested in hearing if any of you have had experience installing batteries in later models and whether these instructions are correct for those models as well.

Click here to visit the Chrysler Central Website Stop in and say hello!!!

If you are interested in trade-in values on Sebrings, check out The Kelly Blue Book SiteInteresting to note that the Chrysler website now has a link to the Kelly Blue Book site--how times change in the automobile business!

Performance Tips from Eric

I promised you earlier that I would find hard evidence before I recommended any performance parts.I am sick of the hype and the 'magic products.' Here are some options.


For the 4 cylinder NGK recommends the BKR6E-11 set at 0.050".
For the V-6 NGK recommends the PFR5G-11, set at 0.044" - NGK's initial setting,
thus the "-11" or 1.1 mm.
If you like the idea of using Platinum plugs or have questions reguarding them you can Email me (
The NGK engineer for Chrysler applications is (


Want to try the absolutely best car polish system in the World? Zaino Bros. I have used these products for a long time and let me tell you nothing compares. Did I mention the owner Sal is a really nice guy and will answer all your questions?


THESE PART NUMBERS FIT 1995-2000 Sebrings. Eric is in the process of getting the correct numbers for 2001-2002 Sebrings. Stay tuned. Here are Eric's recommended part numbers:

Front Axxis Pads........................23-484-01
Front Power Stop rotor/left side......JBR518SL
Front Power Stop rotor/right side....JBR518SR
Rear Axxis Pads.........................23-383-01
Rear Power Stop rotor/left side.......JBR772SL
Rear Power Stop rotor/right side.....JBR772SR

These are slotted rotors that will solve the warping problem so common on Sebrings/Avengers. Contact Ralph at Olympic tell him I sent you. He will set you up with a set of Powerstop SLOTTED rotors and Axxis metal master pads. I'm sure that they are available elsewhere but their prices and service is second to none. When you have them installed make sure that they replace the brake clips (Hardware) and lubricate ALL the contact points of the pad to the calipers. This will fix your problem.

LXiSebring's Shine and Show Trick

Having trouble getting those black plastic outside mirrors to get back to a factory sheen? Try a silicone-based product for blackwalls and black plastic trim. I use Westley's "Black Magic" I bought my bottle some years ago. Check your favorite auto supply store. This restores the dulled and faded plastic part to its original factory sheen, tho you may have to reapply it occasionally. Fading of the mirror plastic appears to particularly be a problem on 95-96 models.

Rambling Commentary on DaimlerChrysler and its future products by LXiSebring

The Sebring coupes are quite different cars from the sedans and convertibles. The 4 dr and convertible Sebrings are Chrysler-made and based on the Chrysler engineered "P" chassis--I believe some if not all are built in a Mexican plant which is just over the Texas Border where Chrysler has a big plant. 4-door owners check your build tag on your driver's side B pillar and tell me what it says. If you remember the Plymouth Acclaim, that was an early version of the "P" car chassis. The Sebring coupe is built in Normal Illinois by Mitsubishi workers in the Diamond Star Motors (DSM) plant, and is based on the completely different Mitsubishi Galant chassis. The V6 in the sedan is a version of the Chrysler-designed V6 that first showed up in the Intrepid, but the coupe V6 is a Mitsubishi design. Both coupe and sedan use the same Chrysler-designed 4 cyl, which is a variant of the 4 cyl also used in the Neon and PT-Cruiser.

It is helpful to think of the Eclipse as being built on a shortened Galant chassis rather than the Sebring coupe as a stretched Eclipse.

Chrysler, after almost completely severing ties with Mitsubishi just before the Damlier merger (The Sebring Coupe was the only really shared product by about '98 and Chrysler had non Mitsubishi-based V6s in their then-new sedans) now is very cozy with them again. Daimler Chrysler doesn't truly own Mitsubishi, but as I understand it, they have about 1/3 of the shares. Thats enough so Mitsubishi doesn't do anything now without checking first with DC headquarters in Germany. The DC/Mitsubishi partnership is similar to what GM has going on with Subaru and now GM used a bunch of Subaru parts in the new Pontiac Solstace--Bob Lutz's pet project at GM.

In the future I expect to see a new DC chassis common to both the P cars and the Galant derivatives and perhaps even eventually derivatives of the Mercedes C class--since all three are so similar in size and layout. Also, dont tell Mercedes owners, but there are cheaper Mercedes coming out that will share lots of parts and engineering with Chrysler & Mitsubishi, and Mercedes parts will be showing up on Chrysler and MItsubishi cars too. Expect luxury Chrysler cars to pull more and more engineering from Mercedes just as the new Lincoln model shares underpinnings with the S-Type Jaguar. Meanwhile, everyone knows that the new Jaguar X-Type is built on as Ford chassis widely used in Europe, but appearing in the US as the now-defunct Ford Contour/Mercury Mystique. This isn't all glued together yet, but thats what will happen. If Mercedes engineers a good new front suspension, why reinvent it and have to pay for additional engineering work at Chrysler or Mitsubishi, espcially if all the cars it could be used in have similar size and weight.

Plus, Mercedes is really looking to expand into the under $30,000 market world-wide, which means the "Not engineered in Germany" opposition will end up being muted and Germans will be happily buying cars that are mostly Chryslers & Mitsubishis but with the three-pointed star on the grille. The new Mercedes little hatchback just came out (Compressor) with (gasp!) cloth upholstery and in the mid 20s! I think the short wheelbase and hatchback design wont do very well in the US, however--the design is just too European for us. Hatchback cars have never been popular in the US regardless of who makes them. But a new Mercedes Coupe built with the overall size and other design parameters of a Sebring coupe and under $30,000. That is quite buildable out of the existing Mercedes/Chrysler/Mitsu parts bin and it could happen!

parts locator Link

Check with Mike Havent ttried this company so have no recommendation on Sebring parts

Xenon Bulb Study

Eric says he is going to do an independent study on these fancy new "HID" look replacement bulbs. It looks to me like they have figured out how to color correuct Halogen bulbs by tinting them and using new gas mixes inside. I have contacted some manufactures and they are sending samples.

LXiSebring: According to the newspaper, the new bulbs on expensive cars are "high-theft" items.

Computer resetting

The best way to reset is to disconnect the battery and reconnect.

Reprogramming remote keyless entry units

Not sure how much of this applies to the Sebring coupe, but Click here

John Tells me that he has a Web site called Auto Makes and Models and he has a link to our site here. Stop by and say hello.

From LXiSebring

In case you guys haven't realized iyt, I love muy car. It's a '95 and going on it's 11th year It has 38,000 miles on it and still looks like nerw inside and out. I recently replaced the front brake pads, and got new tires. I've done the usual maintenance and replaced the battery about 5 times. Other than that I have had no major problems. My car starts well and it runs smoothy. There isn't anything in new vehicles that I can see myself in. I suppose if something major breaks I will have to make some quick decisions, which might involve trading. But not for now!


Sebring Coupe Owners Listed in 2005:

Matt writes

I own a 02 lxi coupe w/ 3.0 V6 (86857 miles) an im starting to feel hard or harder to turn the wheel, i live in idaho its around 10 F at night. when i go to start it about 10:30am it makes this loud hum, it stopes after a few min of running is my stering pump going out.... help

Eric says....Age and cold, mine has done that since it was new.

Jonathon writes

Im wondering if you can tell me how to remove the inside door panel of my sebring lxi 2000, I got all the screws out but it just wont move ,i dont want to forse it and end up breaking the panel ,, is there a trick to it,,, thanks jonathan

Eric says... There are clips around the perimeter. You need the exploded view from the service manual.

Michelle Hoss writes

I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring LXI. Ive noticed the transmission shifts hard at times anywhere from 20 to 35 miles per hour. Just wandered if I should be concerned. The car is under warranty and have had it to the dealer, but they say they can't find anything wrong.

Eric says...Yeah..Don't get me started with Chrysler and their warranty stuff. bad subject. Try another dealer first. You did check the fluid right? Only ever add Chrysler fluid.


hey, how's it going? i just replaced a motor in a 02 sebring, and now it has no spark. it's a 2.7 motor. the flywheel looked good when we put it in and we replaced crank sensors with the old motor. the new motor is an 03 model and we had to change a few sensors but we used the original harness and what sensors weren't the same we swapped with the other motor's. so everything is like it was and the motor was running that was in it. we ran the codes on our computer and it came up with nothing. our computer is also limited to some newer models so we can't check some of the things we want to. we've tried everything except swapping out computers. but like i said we used the old harness and the old sensors. any help would be greatly appreciated.

LXiSebring: Eric is looking into this

Doug Roberts writes

Hi, I have a 2002 Sebring LXI. Love it.... BUT recently the heat goes out when idling (like at a red light). Heat resumes when you accelerate. Radiator is full and not leaking. I know that water is pumped through the heater core and air is passed across it for heat, so I am clueless what engine RPM has to do with this process. Am I taking it to a shop? Ever heard of this before? My thanks, Doug

Eric says... Sounds like a pressure problem. You have to get the system pressure tested. A leak down test. It;s cheap and the right place to start. Are you positive you are not loosing any antifreeze?

Dooug says... You're right. I had it fixed. A radiator hose had a slow leak, causing air to get into the heater core. Obviously, you know your stuff. Thanks, Doug

LXiSebring: The Tappet brothers have nothing on Eric!

Steve writes

I have a 98 Sebring LXi. I bought the car last year. When I got it, it had a little rattle under the hood. The guy said it was just probably something loose. After about a month or two it was getting worse. The rattle would come on during start-up and when I turned the A/C on. I took it to the dealer and it ended up being a cracked flex plate. During that time the car was also catching fire. Again I took it back and they could tell me nothing was wrong. So I took it to another dealership after it caught fire again and they said it was a bad fuel hose. Got it fixed and the problem was gone. Recently the passanger door handle fell off. Sounds like too much hassle and money to fix. Now for 2 easy questions for you. Sometimes when I go up a driveway, like into a parking lot, or over speed bumps, I hear and feel a slight clunk coming from the driver side wheel area. I'm guessing something's loose or maybe something bad under there. Next, the engine is squeeling and I'm going to change the main serpentine belt. I see on the tensioner there is a bolt on the top and one on the side. My question is, how do I move the tensioner to loosen the belt? Do I just put a wrench on it and push down? Thanks, Steve

Eric says... Mine clunks too. Could be a strut plate or a bushing. Have your lower control rods been replaced under recall? The bolt through the idler pulley keeps it in place. When you loosen that bolt it will be able to slide use the other longer bolt to slide it forward or back. Count the turns and you cant go wrong.

Donald writes

My Fianc‚e has a 98 Sebring LXI coupe with the v-6 and will not start. It will turn over normally but doesn't even whimper a bit to start.I was thinking it could be possibly the coil, fuel pump, or was wondering if they still had the resistor box. I generally work on cars myself as I enjoy it and I hate to pay mechanic rates. there are three things that are needed to run a spark, fuel, and compression. What would you recommend?

Eric says....Try to start it with starting fluid, see if it is a fuel problem first. My guess is a bad cam or crank sensor.

Donald says...Eric - It was a bad fuel pump, and the Haynes manual is wrong in where they say the fuel filter is located. It is not under the rear bumper cover as they state in their manual but in front of the passenger side rear wheel.

Eric says...Yep, remember there are 3 sebring flavors and they span over different years. One is a coupe one is a convertible one is a four door...all different. I usually tell people Dodge Avenger to eliminate the issue. Any your right about the filter. Expensive little bugger too.

Doug writes

recently the heat goes out when idling (like at a red light). Heat resumes when you accelerate. Radiator is full and not leaking. I know that water is pumped through the heater core and air is passed across it for heat, so I am clueless what engine RPM has to do with this process. Am I taking it to a shop? Ever heard of this before?

Eric says ....Sounds like a pressure problem. You have to get the system pressure tested. A leak down test. It;s cheap and the right place to start. Are you positive you are not loosing any antifreeze?

XOX writes

figured you would have the lifting points to remove a 2002 2 door 2.4liter engine from my sebring.....i do not see a good spot to hook the chains..thanks any info will be appreciated

Eric says.... I don't..thats the newer version. goto a book store and read the chilton manual. They will be in there.

David writes

Hi, I came across your site and am delighted! I NEED HELP. My 1998 Sebring DASH-INSTRUMENT lights went out. Every other thing on the car is fine. Can you tell me where to look to replace the bulb. The local mechanics will have a heyday with my wallet if I bring it in. HELP. Dave

Eric says... Get yourself a service manual. There is quite a bit of disassembly involved. You will need the exploded views in the book. You can see if the dealer will print you pictures from the service computer.

John writes

im sorry to bother you at this email address but my step son has a 1997 sebring and not alot of money and hes been having a problem 1st with his alarm system not working right i just ordered the owners manual from chrysler. but the alarm doesnt work even after changing the batteries. also for some reason now the car will startup then run and is driveable for approx. 5mins then stops. last night he left for work drove about 5 mins and it stopped, he left it there and went to work. my wife and i drove over started the car and then started home and then approx. 5 mins later it just quit it turns over fine and when i listen under the car i hear the fuel pump run momentary then stop. but the car wont start then when he got home from work several hours later it started fine. then a couple of hours later it started again fine. any ideas on what to check first. footnote before he came out here a shop replaced his distributer then his brain and supposedly it was ok because he drove from illionois to here in california. hes staying with us until he can get on his own financialy so any help would be really appreicated. i used to work on my own cars back in the 60s and 70s but now with all the computer stuff its kind of hard again thanks again in advance for any help you can give me.

Eric says .... check the cam and crank sensors

MP writes

My twins just purchased 1997 Sebring LX. They only had it for five days and the check engine light has gone on. We have taken it to AUTOZONE (which offers FREE "check engine light" diagnostics) and they have informed us that the #2 oxygen sensor is bad. Can you send me information about where these sensors are located?? Thanks in advance! Marisela, Pima Arizona

Eric says ...There is one in the exhaust manifold,one before the catalytic converter,and one after. Any half witted mechanic would know that. You will need a special socket to remove it so not to damage the wires.

Rozy writes

My daughter has a 1995 Chrysler Sebring. She needs a new stereo system and I am wondering if there is a certain size that fits this particular car. She doesn't want anything fancy. She has just been having trouble with her CDs getting stuck in the slot. She is away at college, so I don't have the car to look at and see if there are certain specifications. Any guidance you can give me would be appreciated.

Eric says... Pioneer makes 2 nice units that fit the special din and a half slot. I went on eBay and bought a used factory one for myself. You have to know if it is the Infinity system or not. The original stereo will have the logo and Infinity name if it is.

Kevin writes

I am considering purchasing a 1997 Sebring LXi (122,200 miles) with a transmission problem. I am told that the transmission will not shift out of 2nd gear ("limp home mode"). How can I determine it the problem requires a Minimal repair (Incorrect fluid, Solenoid pack, Input sensor/relay, etc) or a Major repair? Can I get error codes from the instrument panel that will help? Can the "limp home mode" mean that a Major repair is necessary? Thank you very much for any help that you can provide. Regards,

Eric says... key on,off,on,off,on engine light will flash example: flash,flash,flash.............flash,flash = mil code 32 Those transmissions are not very good to begin with. offers a warranted replacement you can check into. I'd pass on the car. unless it was say $1000

Rob writes

I have a 2004 Limited Coupe with 17" tires but would like to buy 15 or 16" wheels with snow tires because they are half the price. Can you tell me how to find a cross reference chart for rims?

Eric I run 205/55/16 and 195/70/14 during the winter.

steve valent writes

I have a 98 Sebring LXi. I bought the car last year. When I got it, it had a little rattle under the hood. The guy said it was just probably something loose. After about a month or two it was getting worse. The rattle would come on during start-up and when I turned the A/C on. I took it to the dealer and it ended up being a cracked flex plate. During that time the car was also catching fire. Again I took it back and they could tell me nothing was wrong. So I took it to another dealership after it caught fire again and they said it was a bad fuel hose. Got it fixed and the problem was gone. Recently the passanger door handle fell off. Sounds like too much hassle and money to fix. Now for 2 easy questions for you. Sometimes when I go up a driveway, like into a parking lot, or over speed bumps, I hear and feel a slight clunk coming from the driver side wheel area. I'm guessing something's loose or maybe something bad under there. Next, the engine is squeeling and I'm going to change the main serpentine belt. I see on the tensioner there is a bolt on the top and one on the side. My question is, how do I move the tensioner to loosen the belt? Do I just put a wrench on it and push down?

LXiSebring: Eric is looking at this

Rhunda writes

Hi there I would like to join the Chrysler Sebring Club. I have a 2003 Ice blue Chrysler Sebring Coup. What other information should I send in to you? Thanks!!

LXiSebring: Tell us more about your car, equipment etc.

Bob writes

97 Sebring LXI with sport wheels. I recieved a letter saying if you had to replace your sport wheels we will reinburse you. I had to replace my wheels. I lost the letter, Has anyone recieved this letter.

LXiSebring: I haven't heard of this but it could be true. Anyone here?

David Mercaldo writes

Hi, I came across your site and am delighted! I NEED HELP. My 1998 Sebring DASH-INSTRUMENT lights went out. Every other thing on the car is fine. Can you tell me where to look to replace the bulb. The local mechanics will have a heyday with my wallet if I bring it in. HELP. Dave

LXiSebring: I htink there is a bigger problem here than a bulb. Sounds to me like a loose connection as there is more than one bulb and the dash lights wouldnt all go out if only one bulb is bad. THese things are impossible to diagnose w/o the car.

robert willis writes

Hello there LXiSebring, great website. First off how do i go about joining? I don't have access to AOL.

Second I have a 1997 Sebring V6 and have an intermentant problem. I travel from Ohio to NJ quite often and have noticed that when I go through the MTs crossing PA in the winter the check engine light comes on and the car starts to "chug", when I come down to a lower elevation the light goes out and the "chugging" stops. This also doesn't happen while driving in OHIO or while I am in NJ. I took it to a shop to have the codes read, but they said there were no codes stored. The interesting part about this whole thing is that this only happens when i reach a high enough elevation where its snowing. I thought there might be something like a airtemp sensor, but can't seem to find out anything about it. Any and all advice you can give me will be of great help.

Thank you in advance for your time


P.S. Could you also tell me if there is a bypass system for the heater? I get heat about two or three mins after the car starts but the bottom hose doesn't heat up till the car temp gage reaches what i believe

LXiSebring: Not sure, Eric is checking..

MP writes

My twins just purchased 1997 Sebring LX. They only had it for five days and the check engine light has gone on. We have taken it to AUTOZONE (which offers FREE "check engine light" diagnostics) and they have informed us that the #2 oxygen sensor is bad. Can you send me information about where these sensors are located?? Thanks in advance! Marisela, Pima Arizona

LXiSebring: Eric is checking on this.

Katherine Blair writes

95 sebring LXI v-6 I bought mine about 4 years ago with 12,000 miles on it. It ran like a dream. Now it is the worst car I have ever owned at 40,000 miles. I owned a jeep before this car and I never had the kind of problems that I deal with (i ran 100,000 miles on that car). My engine's intake is clogged, my transmission had to be replaced (1/2 ago). Yes it is a ten year old car. Yes, it has alot of miles on it. The oil has literally burned the car to ashes. It is one of the worst cars I have ever owned. Check out the problems with this line. Its amazing they were able to market it as long as they did.

LXiSebring:Don't know what to say other than that my 95 Sebring is still running strong.

Reyes Reyes writes

solicito precio de automovil sebring, yo soy de reynosa, tam, Mexico espero informacion. saludos. atte. Reyes Reyes G.

LXiSebring: I'll let the Spanish speakers respond to this one.

Chad Killion writes

Hello, I came across your page and thought you might be able to help me. I have a 1997 Chrysler Sebring LXi coupe with the infinity system. I want to replace my door speakers, rear speakers, and head unit. I was told by Circuit City that I couldn't just put 6.5" full range speakers in the door because the factory amp acts as a crossover and will not send "highs" to those speaker locations (they told me that the amp only sends midrange to the doors, and sends the highs to the dash). They told me I should bypass the factory amp and power my front door speakers directly from the new head unit. Should I be concerned that the factory amp won't send highs to my door speakes, or not? Just trying to avoid running new speakers wire if its not required. Thanks in advance!!

LXiSebring: The Infinity sdtereo systems used in early Sebrings are more than a little weird. The dash speakers are near full-range too. What the stereo place is telling you is accurate, I think. Its easier to add a sub than to try to rebuild the factory system.

Xoxo Xoxo writes

figured you would have the lifting points to remove a 2002 2 door 2.4liter engine from my sebring.....i do not see a good spot to hook the chains..thanks any info will be appreciated

LXiSebring: I'm not sure about this one.

Doug Roberts writes

Hi, I have a 2002 Sebring LXI. Love it.... BUT recently the heat goes out when idling (like at a red light). Heat resumes when you accelerate. Radiator is full and not leaking. I know that water is pumped through the heater core and air is passed across it for heat, so I am clueless what engine RPM has to do with this process. Am I taking it to a shop? Ever heard of this before? My thanks,

LXiSebring: THat's really odd-- I think you are due for a shop trip. Sounds like a heater switch problem to me.

Carey writes

HI, do you know what other mfr. wheels will fit my 16x6" 5 lug wheels, i.e. mitsubishi eclipse?? Thankyou and happy thanksgiving.

I have a feeling that the last gen Eclipse wheels should fit ok. If the bolt holes fit you need to keep within the same outside tire diameter and width. Check to see if the Mistsu wheels fit the tire size on your car currently.

jake presutti writes

i am completely stumped about a problem i have, ....just bought this brand new sebring, 2005, and the stinking horn goes off at any time by itself....i aksed the lot about it, and they said that the horn is actually made into the same little pouch that the airbag is in, which is made of a mylar material......and of course mylar expands and contracts in if my steering wheel gets cold, the horn blasts, (logically thinking), the lot has ordered me a new wheel cover, of course it is one of those never needed, hardly even manufactured parts, but won't the new wheel cover be the same material, which will give me the same problem, which indeed will solve absolutely nothing? you know of any recalls for this part, i have researched this on the net, and can hardly find any problems related to this issue, do you know of or have you heard of any such faulty, frumpy engineering........any answers or guidance would be greatly appreciated.....thanks jake from southern illinois....

If you have a security alarm on this, I would suspect the underhood seccurity aram switch. Does it go steady or off and on repeatedly. If it goes steady the dealer is on the track.

Eric writes

My girlfriend just aquired a 95 sebring lxi with the infinity stereo system. She asked me about replacing the speakers because at a fairly low volume level they start to distort. I have done a lot of stereo work in my own vehicles but only one had its own amp and i know that when i repleaced my 6x9's in the back(89 lincoln tc) it was neevr the same and i mean that in a bad way. Do i need a part that will change the amp's output or is it safe to replace the speakers? any advice you have on upgrading with aftermarket speakers will be appreciated.

Eric says ... I used Infinity 6x9's for my NON Infinity system and am very pleased. Search under what fits my car, use Dodge Avenger.

Donald writes

My Fianc‚e has a 98 Sebring LXI coupe with the v-6 and will not start. It will turn over normally but doesn't even whimper a bit to start.I was thinking it could be possibly the coil, fuel pump, or was wondering if they still had the resistor box. I generally work on cars myself as I enjoy it and I hate to pay mechanic rates. there are three things that are needed to run a spark, fuel, and compression. What would you recommend?

Eric says...Try to start it with starting fluid, see if it is a fuel problem first. My guess is a bad cam or crank sensor.

JFlynn writes

I know you prefer to talk about the earlier versions but maybe you could help me. I have a 2001 Sebring with a 2.7. My air compressor will not engage. The freon charge is good. It has been intermittent for about a month. Sometimes the compressor runs, sometimes it would not. When it engages the air is nice and cold. I only have a Haynes book wiring print. It is very general. I would like to jumper the pressure switches and see if I can keep the compressor running. Do you have any suggestions or have access to a print for the air conditioning system? Thanks for any help!

Eric says...Yor on the right track, chances are it's the compressor relay. Smack it a few times and see if your compressor turns on. You can buy a service manual from Chrysler online.

Bluelight writes

Hi, dont know how old the site is that i got your address from but if you still deal with sebrings, my wife has a 01 sebring lxi and the dash lights that illuminate the speedometer and tach have stop working, occasionally the y will come on after an hour or so of driving, the dash light is the light green glow type that light up the entire circles not the one that just highlight the numbers. Any advice would be appreciated. Thx Matt

Eric says...You'll have to rip the dash out and clean the connections real good and reassemble. Get yourself a manual.

Cindy writes

My name is Cindy Adams, and I own a 98 Sebring Coupe 2.5 V6. I'm having trouble starting her, and I was hoping you could help. When I try to start the engine, she sounds like she's turning over fine, ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- but doesn't want to catch. The problem is intermittent - sometimes she'll fire right up, sometimes she won't. It is getting worse, however, to the point that now I'm never sure if I get myself somewhere, will I able to get her started to get home. I replaced the front 3 spark plugs, and had no problems starting at all for a few weeks. Now though it takes 7 or 8 times before she'll engage. Occasionally, if I let it sit for 10 minutes and try again, she'll start on the second attempt, but not always. Sadly, I'm mighty strapped for cash at the moment, so taking it in to have it looked at is out of the question (tho I have no problems wrenching on anything myself, if I can). Do you have any suggestions? Friends have mentioned the distributor, but she runs fine after it starts, a possible fuel problem (I have noticed my gas mileage isn't at all what it used to be) or perhaps the starter relay or ignition coil. Any ideas? I'd be most appreciative for any advice you can give me !!! Thank you !!!

Eric says ....This is the third email about the problem this month. Replace the distributor cap and rotor. If that does not help, look into cam and crank sensors.

Dwight writes

I just found your email on a Sebring coupe website. The problem is when the car is started it has a very loud squeaking coming out of the front right hand side of the engine compartment. I recently had the timing belt, water pump, and serpentine belt replaced and the noise still comes and goes. It sounds kind of like a ching, ching ching, The engine being cold or warm does not seem to matter. I also have a check engine light that appears to be an EGR valve this should be easy. I am also thinking a tune-up is in order since the idle is rough. It has about 85k on it. Any help would be great.

Eric says...That could be the a/c clutch, an idler pulley or a loose belt.when it happens turn the steering wheel and see if it gets worse, turn on the a/c etc. Try to pinpoint it.

alberto jaime hernandez writes

Hello im from mexico I own a 99 sebring coupe v6 2.5l my car was ok until a Pair of months ago. First when I was driving sometimes it came down and didnt want to restart it Has to passed like 15 minutes and then it starts again, it happened like 1 Or 2 times per month then more closer but now my car start just a few Minutes and then it come down and I have to wait more time almost an hour so The mechanic didnt find any codes and I already change the fuel pump and the Distribuitor and still the same I dont know what it may be, my car has 2 yes 2 months with the mechanic and it is doing the same. Could you please tell me something that could be what else can I do?? Now they tell me that is the computer, do you think so? Im desperete by now cause i,m expending my money and I cant drive my car Yet.

Thank you very much I wait for your mail Please

Eric says...Crank or Cam sensor, could just be a bad connection.


I currently own a 1997 chrysler sebring lxi that is 8years old. The car only have 80,400 miles on it. Recently I have been having problems with the car I have replaced the timing belt, water pump. After doing that the check engine light came on, I found out that the car was misfiring and was told that it need new fuel injectors. I had all six fuel injectors replaced, I also had all of the o2sensors replaced. I just got my car back and my car doesn't seem to be running properly. The check engine light is still on and the car doesn't take off like it is suppose to. Can you please tell me what is going on. Thank you laurinda from new jersey

LXiSebring: Well if the check engine light is still coming on the computer is still generating an error code that should tell the service people exactly what is still wrong. You need to have a good dealer look at this instead of replacing parts one at a time to locate the fix, as the info to fix it properly is beuing generated by the check engine light. Sounds to me like you have a mechanic who is learning at your expense!



I have a 97 Sebring LXI, and I love it....I lost my Alarm clicker and just bought a new one on Ebay, do you know how I can program it without going to the dealer?

LXiSebring: No, generally that is something the dealer only can do, But if you have the remote it shouldnt cost you much to get it programmed.

Peter Kehayov writes

I see you have a great site dedicated to your car. I have the same one but dark green. I have it for 4.5 yrs and I like it a lot. Unfortunately, I'll have to sell it soon. I got married recently and will have a baby therefore we'll need a bigger 4-door car. I see you are very knowledgable on the Sebring subject and I wonder if you can help me locate someone who will be interested in buying my car. I really do not want to sell her to anyone just like that. I like it a lot. We've been together across Ontario and Quebec in Canada and from Chicago, Ill to Richmond, VA in the States. I had a great time with her and would prefer her future owner to take the same good care of her as I did.

What makes her unique is that she was made in FEB 1995 and is dark/deep green, so it looks like one fo the mystery Sebrings you saw in New Orleans, although the front grille is normal. Is it possible that somone may wnat to own her as a collector's item?

Here are some photos of my car:

Please let me know if you or someone you know is interested.

LXiSebring: That dark polo green was a standard color, but I believe only for the short 95 model year. I THINK for 96 the green, still called Polo Green, took on a more blue-green cast.

Kirt and Christy write

iam looking to by a car for myself since my wife now has the Jeep i am seriously considering a sebring while i havr done a little homework on this car i feel an owners club could provide me with more valuble insight. Like should i get the coupe or the vert are the any defects with the vert what engine upgrades should consider etc. please help!!!!!! i really like this car but i gotta convince the wife it is worth the buy please let me know something soon thanks

LXiSebring: We know all about coupes here but very little about convertibles, which are nearly an entirely different car.

Carlos writes

Hello, my name is carlos gomez and i would like to be included in the pictures page of your website. As you can see, i recently purchased this 1998 sebring lxi coupe. nothing amazing about it except this car has a kelly blue book price of 7,000dls, the dealer wanted al least 5400dls for it and i got for a mere 3,000dls on ebay!!!!!!(same car, dealer put it for auction on ebay). i did a complete check on this car before bidding on it, and i cant find nothing wrong with it. no negative carfax, mechanically sound, pass a private mechanic inspection. i have to say i am more than happy with my purchase and eventually i will post more pictures when i modifications are done to the car. thank you very much for the opportunity to share our views on your website. I think it is one of the best ones i ever seen around the web in a long time. Keep up the good work.


Carlos Gomez

LXiSebring: In running this site, evbery once and a while someone sends me a photo of a Sebring that just blows me away. Your's, the featured Sebring, (other photos on the photo page) is it! Everything here just seems to come together in the finest example of a truly collectible Sebring, The shimmering dark red metallic paint, the buttery cream leather interior...this is the whole package.

The story about getting this vehicle through your dealer on ebay for only $3000 just adds to the interest. One day, probably sooner not later, people are going to finally recognizethat these cars are worth way more money than as a used car. I hope you are able to keep this car for a long long time. And to all my readers here take a careful look at the photos. This car is really what earlier model Sebring ownership is all about!

Les writes

I just came across your site while looking for a solution to a problem I have with my 2001 coupe. I bought the car new in June of 2001 for the wife to drive. The car now has about 85000 miles on it and realy have had no problems with it. Recently I started to drive it back and forth to work and put on about 7 hundred miles a week. This morning when I cranked it up to leave for work the Service Engine Soon light came on, The car seems to be running fine. I'm pretty sure it's a sensor and not something like no oil pressure. Is the dealer the only one who can read the error codes?

I am also have the rattle in the engine compartment when I first start the car, been going on about six months, and about a month ago I noticed that the dash has three cracks in it running from the windshield to about halfway back.

If you have any suggestions I would be happy to hear them.

LXiSebring: Eric is looking into this

Jeff writes

Hey, im jeff. Last week i was pulling out of my high school and got t-boned in my 97' dodge ram 1500. that day i went to tha used car lot and bought a 98 sebring lxi FULLY loaded with tan leather automatic seats, sunroof, alloy wheels, imfinity audio, power EVERYTHING, and a cool looking spoiler. I got it for 3,750, not bad por such great condition. I have just started customizing my ride with cold air intake, performance module, and cat back exhaust...(all bought off eBay)....and let me tell you, this thing not only handles awesomely(partially due to my michelin performance tires) But it is FAST.... Just thaught you should know, lol. I'll be writing back letting you know about more upgrades to come.

Gill writes

hey i got a 2002 sebring coupe lxi, the one wit the 3.0 v6, i was wondering do u know where i could get a suppercharger for it or wat kind of mitsubishi engine it is so i can look for cheaper parts

LXiSebring: THat's tricky. There are more aftermarket parts for the 4 than th V6 as that engine has been modded more.

Michael D. Sullivan writes

T I have a '01 Sebring, 106 thousand miles. The trouble is that the Heating element in the 02 sensors keep flashing the " service engine soon light, number 135 and 141. Could it be the PCM or just bad sensors in the car. Any help would really be nice

LXiSEbring: Commonly the sensors themselves go bad.

AJM writes

My front drivers side floor is always wet whether it is rain or shine! What could be causing this? Is it possibly the floor panel?

LXiSebring: Sometimes this is a crack or hole in the floor, and all it needs is a little waterproof undercoating to seal. Get under the car and see if you can see the spot that gets wet. JUst a smal hole can create a big wet spot on the carpet. SEe if you see water dripping down when the car is sitting in the rain.

Another possibility is that the door drains are clogged. Check the underside of the edge of the door.

John writes

Hello, Does anybody know what has happened to the ASOG site. I have not been able to get it for weeks. Seems the site is dead. Any news you might know of would be appreciated.

LXiSebring: Dunno. They have been off for a period of time before, then returned.

G Bowers writes

Hi, Just took a chance on emailing you about a problem we have just noticed on our 2000 ---Actually we haven't had any major problems with the car in 5 years. There is a rattle sound under the hood when the car first starts up--then goes away after it runs a bit..The service dept couldn't figure out where it was coming from--hard to detect exact spot with the engine going and all seems good mechanically..Nothing lights up or shows up when they put it on diagnostic test..So they said it just came with the car ?? Yeah right!

Ok now recently we noted some (what I assume to be rain spots on the spoiler only--nothing on anything else) We tried to use a rubbing compound on them and it didn't work very well..You can not feel them by touching, but can see them in the light--shows up lighter than the silver color. There is quite a few and they are definitely spots of some kind.. We wondered if buffing would help rid of them..Any ideas? We would appreciate your help--hopefully without costing us $$ at dealer. Thank you.

LXiSebring: THat's a cleacoat damage problem, brough on probably by air pollution or acid rain.

Angel writes

I own a 2000 sebring lxi, with 110k miles. Apart from normal wear and tear, and one major problem with the transmission (in 2002), I haven't really had any complaints since I bought it in 2001.

Recently, I had trouble starting the car. The "service engine soon" light came on, so I took it in to the shop. After reading the codes that read "misfire" I had a complete tune-up. New plugs, wires, dist. cap_the whole nine. After the tune-up the car began to constantly stall/die while I'm driving and sitting at stoplights. I took the car to the dealership and the mechanics told me that there was a vacuum hose leaking, that they would be able to get to in a few days, and since the "leak" is under the intake - it would take several hours (of labor) to get to it. Then a salesperson offered to show me around, and perhaps get me into a new car. (I DON"T WANT A NEW CAR - I JUST WANT MINE TO WORK.)

Eric says... Could be a dirty/faulty idle air control motor. Its easty enough to take out and clean. Get yourself a manual.

Bill writes

I just bought a used 2004 Sebring coupe and it has only one keyhole, the one on the driver's door. I don't know if this is a unique model or standard. Please tell me about the different models offered that year. Thanks Bill

LXiSebring: I'm not sure either, maybe other 2004 owners can tell us.

Alberto writes

I need help i'm from Mexico and I need the airbag driver side,,,, can you tell where can I found it

LXiSebring: Tough to find except at a dealers--not sure I would want an airbag from a wrecked car. Maybe it didn't blow because of a mechanical flaw.

Rick writes

Hi, I'm looking to purchase a 1996 Sebring. I have found a nice one. Red, I really like the car. But both of the front seat belts are locked in. They will not release. I can't put them on. I know the car is not inspectable like this. Neither one of the belts will release from the seat. Can anyone help me with this. I'd love to buy the car but if this is a very expensive fix I may have to rethink this vehicle. I also have a funny feeling that this may be the reason the guy is selling.

LXiSebring: Not sure how expensive to fix. Worst case is that you need new belts.

Ned writes

How do i get into the cluster to change a tail light in my 2001 chrysler sebring coupe? I popped the trunk, removed the cloth lining, and don't know where to go from there. The car didn't come with an owners manual.

Eric says....There are sockets, look for wires. You can turn them and pull the socket out with the bulb.

Scott Newman writes

We bought this car fully loaded new in "98" thought it would be a good vehicle for my wife. `It has been a pretty good car with no major mechanical problems. The only "REAL" problem is with the outside door handles, they BREAK from normal use! In 2002 the driver side broke just from opening the door. Then about 6 months later the passenger side broke. They are an expensive repair because dealer won't sell them without paint, about $600 per door. After we fixed those the driver side broke again this year in April! Does anyone know of an aftermarket manufacturer that makes metal replacements? Maybe similar to the replacement handle assemblies made for trucks, or used by customizers? I am disappointed with the quality of the plastic OEM exterior door handles. Also this car can really eat up tires and brakes. I have gone through 5 sets of the Goodyears in 135000 miles. and about 7 sets of front pads, poor performance in my opinion. Wife loves the car, it drives good, I don't like the eminence. Oh the inside mirror electrical connection is always coming loose making the compass turn on & off and can't use map lights. At $299 I think its a bit much for replacement.

LXiSebring: This has not been a common problem at all, but see below. THe INTERIOR handles sometimes break but not the exterior ones.

Heidi writes

My son managed to break the handle off of the exterior drivers-side door...the lever piece with 2 "arms" that connect somewhere on the inside:

1)Where can I purchase a replacement handle? (there's no way to fix this one, both arms are broken)

2)Can the new piece install easily, or is this beyond removing the interior door panel to snap in the new handle?

Any information you have is appreciated! Thanks, Heidi

Eric Says...I have heard this a bunch of times but never had to do it. It will need painted, I know that. Maybe someone who has done this can help you.

LXiSebring: See prior letter.

Simon writes

I have a problem with my 2001 Sebring LXI, the Dashboard lights, are Crazy, I turn on my lights and the dashboard does not light up for usually about 15 minutes, once there on the dimmer switch works, and everything is fine, and then I will turn my car off and go into a store or something come right back out turn on my lights and the same thing I have to wait 10-15 minutes before they illuminate, and then sometimes I turn on my car and they work fine, I don't know what to do , and I am afraid that I am going to get ripped off if I take it into the dealership, but no one can put there finger on what the problem is..:?? ?Can you help please??

LXiSebring: Generally this is a wiring harnass problem with something loose or working only off and on No real way to diagnose from afar. May be cheap or expensive to fix.

Bill Cox writes

I work for Jagorda Interviewing Services in San Diego and we're inviting Sebring owners to a 2-hour focus group in San Diego on Sat., Nov. 12th that pays $100 cash for participation. We need men and women who are Hispanic or African-American between the ages of 18 and 54. They should be residents of San Diego County. To see if they meet the criteria to participate, they should call us toll-free at 1-888-569-0424 during working hours or leave a message on the machine and we'll call them back. I hope I'm not abusing the forum by posting this, but we could use the help and the participants would be well paid for their time. This is open to Sebring convertible, sedan and coupe owners as well. Please let your friends know, and if this can be posted more publicly please do that.

LXiSebring: Anyone in the San Diego area who meets these requirements?"

Courtney writes

Do you know where I can buy a 98 Sebring Coupe front bumper cover besides going to the dealer ?

LXiSebring: The other option is a auto parts recycler (junk car dealer).

Angel Sexton writes

I own a 2000 sebring lxi, with 110k miles. Apart from normal wear and tear, and one major problem with the transmission (in 2002), I haven't really had any complaints since I bought it in 2001.Recently, I had trouble starting the car. The "service engine soon" light came on, so I took it in to the shop. After reading the codes that read "misfire" I had a complete tune-up. New plugs, wires, dist. cap_the whole nine.>After the tune-up the car began to constantly stall/die while I'm driving and sitting at stoplights.I took the car to the dealership and the mechanics told me that there was a vacuum hose leaking, that they would be able to get to in a few days, and since the "leak" is under the intake - it would take several hours (of labor) to get to it. Then a salesperson offered to show me around, and perhaps get me into a new car. (I DON"T WANT A NEW CAR - I JUST WANT MINE TO WORK.)I thought all this sounded fishy, so I got a second opinion. Come to find out, THERE IS NO VACUUM HOSE UNDER THE INTAKE. I had a mechanic take the intake off, and check all connections - and also watch for the phantom vacuum hose. Although I cannot seem to find the problem myself, I'm quite suspicious of the mechanics at the dealership - they seem to be more interested in showing me the car lot and offering off-the-cuff diagnosis, than finding the real problem. I'm so frustrated! Do you have any idea where I should begin? Has anyone else had these same issues?

Sue writes

About 10 months ago, I bought a fully loaded 2001 Sebring Lxi for $9,000 after trade in on my old Jeep. It had 30,000 miles, but I've ran it up to 78,000 mi. My husband says that I need to do preventive maintenance on it. But, I have had NO trouble with anything. It runs perfect. I've changed the oil twice. Is there anything importaint that I should plan to do?

My passenger side fog lamp burned out. Is there a high performance, super bright, spot light style bulb that I could replace it with?

LXiSebring: Time for the 60,000 mile service. See owners manual. Others here know more about fog lights than I do.

Robert Bercik writes

Here is a pic of my 2001 Chrysler Sebring LXI....It was my Christmas Present and its my first car. This is the perfect car for a 16 year old! It is very powerful!

LXiSebring: See the featured Sebring of the Week, above.

Robert Dier writes

Sebring UPDATE:

My 95 'Bring has just over 95k on her. Coupe with a V-6, she is basically stock, but with some service work done to her. When she started stalling @ lights and idling weird, I replaced the plugs, O2 sensors & EGR valve. Chrysler has a new EGR valve out now for the Sebring. R & R it when you can afford it. New fuel filter @ 88k. Replaced the tran fluid @ 90k, timing belt & water pump @ 89k. I know its expensive, but I STRONGLY suggest buying the $50+ K & N air cleaner. Car accelerates better, runs stronger and gas mileage goes up a mile or 2. Plus its warranteed for ONE MILLION MILES!! Went with this pages suggestion on Ralphs Rotors and Brakes.. DO IT!!! Well worth the money.

Santanu writes

Hi David

I bought a Sebring LXi 1995 2.5 L V6 for my girlfriend. I was impressed by the specs but the car handles really bad. I am now really feeling bad for her and thinking of changing some stuff to make it perform better. I think the engine feels heavy and lacks breathing space. I want to put K&N filters for starters. City mpg is 18-19 which is surprising for this small underperformer. I wanted to consult some experts for some other suggestions that might make it perform and handle better. I feel like the people who are die-hard followers of Sebring are either not driving the same car or I am simply frustrated with a very average car fit for its price! Thanks for any advice!

irish writes

hi... my name is bryan . I have a 2004 sebring lx. i recently noticed that the "red light " notated for the theft system doesnt blink when i arm the car. then when the car is armed i can open the car doors without the alarm sounding. do you have a solution for me? how can i get the light to blink when its armed and how can i get the alarm to sound when the doors are opened?????? heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllp

LXiSebring: I would try 1. turning hte key in the drivers side door which supposedly reselts the alarm. If that doesnt work, try disconnecting the pos battery terminal for a couple minutes, which should reset everything.

Other than that you have a problem that needs a service department to trace.

LDYINA writes

I have owned my 1997 Sebring about 9 months now and I love it unfortunately I have a problem with it now, the car won't start, it has fuel, and gets spark, and acts like it wants to start but doesn't several people have told me different things that is wrong with it, from bad fuel pump, or filter, to water in the gas, 15 min prior to it not starting I had gotten fuel, so I thought the problem was the water thing so I bought a bottle of heet and that didn't work either, I am really needing some advice from someone that knows what they are doing. this is the only vehicle we own and with it not running has really put a stress on us as far as getting to doctors appointments. any help you can give me is greatly appreciated.

Eric says...Have the battery checked. Also try starting it with starting fluid to see if it's a fuel or spark problem.

Paula writes

Recently I purchased this car. Since the purchase I have had some major repairs done to this car. The car was purchased from a dealer. My question is this:

Did this year of car have a problem with the motor running hot. The motor has had some repairs to it with the soft plugs being permatexed in. I recently replaced the water pump but the motor is still running hot. You can smell it when I shut it down. I travel three miles one way to my employment and I am trying to find out if there was a recall on this car and its motor because of the running hot problem.

I am looking for a new motor if there is no recall on this vehicle. Can you send to the proper place to inquire the cost of a new motor. I would like it to be some place close where I can go and pick it up. My other preference is I do not want to go through a dealer of Chrysler products. Our local dealership here in Butler is very costly and do not give price breaks.

I look forward to hearing from you or someone who can help me with my problem.

Eric says ...The dealer sold it to you this way? No warranty?

Someone must have damaged it, you need to have the compression checked and the cooling system pressurized to check for leaks or a bad head gasket. Have the thermostat replaced just as a precaution. The only other thing it could be is a clogged radiator or heater core. You can check the radiator for "hot spots" and also feel the upper radiator hose, if it is hot you probably have sufficient flow.

Did you not drive the car before you bought it? did it heat up then?

Press F1 writes

I just purchased a georgeous red 2000 Sebring LXi coupe w/ only 28,000 miles on it and still under a full service contract warranty. I need to change the front brake pads as they have just started rubbing/grinding a little. How do I take off the pads, and what tools do I need. My boyfriend says he will do it if someone tells him how. Could you or some one let me know how please! I really want to drive it, but I am not going to until I get these pads on. Help! BTW, the brake pads dont fall under my warranty :(

Eric says...Replace the pads and rotors. I have been using NAPA parts latley. Use the good pads and the cheap rotors. You will be good for another 20,000 miles. All you should need is a 14mm socket to pull the 2 caliper bolts. Buy high temp brake grease, clean those bolts, grease them back up and reassemble. I am going by my 1996 model, not sure on the newer ones, should be about the same.

Sandra writes

The problem first started when it was warm outside, over 80 hot and humid, and persisted in the hot or cold or wet weather. This week it is cooler 60's and its clear and bright and it still does it. The problem started the day after I filled up with gas. I never fill up ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- with gas because our gas prices in Canada are ridiculous. I put in clean flow, or gas additive, something like that after the first day of not starting, figuring I had water in the gas. (Didn't help) Next I replaced the gas filter, the next day, it still wouldnt start, well it takes allot of cranking the engine to start--today it took almost 10 minutes of cranking before it would even slightly cough or look like it would try to start. This morning I tried priming the fuel pump, well turning on and off the key (5 times) before I even attempted to start it, I heard the fuel pump come on every time, but when I actually cranked the engine, it didn't help. It took quite a while before I smelt the gas. I pump the gas after cranking for several minutes, then I smell the gas. My father seems to think it is the fuel pump. I don't. I have the manual and have read every forum that I could find on this issue. If it was the fuel pump, wouldn't it stall and not start all day long? Tomorrow I will look at the spark plugs. The manual doesn't show me a clear diagram of where they are located or how to remove them (if near the firewall) but I will figure it out. I will also check the fuel pressure tomorrow. I will get some starting fluid tomorrow and try it to see. I figured it would be an easy fix, but not allot of people seem to have this issue with the cold starting. Let me know if you have any further suggestions. It would be appreciated

Eric responds... That is a good one. Is it temperature related at all ? will it start better at 70 than 40 after sitting? Give me as much info as you can. You could have a bad injector or your fuel system may be loosing pressure. Try turning the car on and off like 5 or ten times (operates fuel pump) then try to start it. Try starting it on starting fluid, see if it's a fuel delivery issue.

Sandra continues ... No go on the starting fluid. It did not help at all. Yesterday we checked 3 spark plugs and checked for fire and they would good. The 3 other plugs are rather difficult to get at. We checked the engine compression, that was good, we checked the fuel line leading to the fuel injectors when cranking to see if there was gas and pressure, and it was good. We took off the fuel pump relay and checked its connections, seemed good. Checked fuses in engine compartment, all good.

Today when cranking over the engine, the check engine light finally came on, I receive code 12, code 42, code 66. Code 12, battery disconnection, (we did that when changing the fuel filter) code 42 is I believe fuel pump relay ( I am assuming it registered because we removed it yesterday) and code 66 (which is another issue) code 66 is the one I need to find out more about. I read the diagnostic code chart in the manual and I believe it relates to the PCM and the ETACS-ECU failure to communicate. ?? Not sure though.

Let me know your thoughts.

Another thought I had was the fuel pump check valve staying open?????? What do you think?

Eric responds... Your on the right track with the pcm, dont be affraid to clean the plug and connections to the computer. Also pull the main fuses and breakers and look for corrosion. PCM was my next guess. Your doing great.

Jesse Geis writes

Greetings! I've look a bit through your site and find it helpful. I was wondering however, if you might know a of a solution to a warping air bag cover. I have a 2002 sebring (just out of warranty) and the cover has started to warp. I've purchased a dash mat to help, but was wondering if there was a common fix to this problem. I know that the intrepids have this very problem and have seen a few sebrings with it too. Any ideas would be appreciated!

Eric responds... No,Some do and some don't. You can try writing to Chrysler but it never got me anywhere. Your best bet is to find a dealer that is willing to help you. Good luck.

Chris writes

I have a 1997 Sebring that has been sitting for about 3 months. I tried to start it yesterday and it would not start. I tried to turn the key to see if the fuel pump was working(Maybe a lack of gas) or maybe the fuse was blown but with all the ringing when i turn the key over i can not hear if it clicking or not. My fuse box cover is missing so i don't know which one to check. 1. Is there a place i can go to online to get a fuse box diagram and 2. do you have any solutions for me that might be able to help. Thank you for your time and information.

LXiSebring: Eric is looking into this

Lescar writes


I will be purchasing a used 1999 Sebring LXi with 49,000 miles and I am picking up the car this week. The owner's manual is not in the car and I am writing to ask your opionion about what type of gas do you recommend that I use.

I would also be very interested in knowing any advice that you would share with me regarding this car. Your recommendations about maintenance, driving tips, etc. would be valued.

Thanks so much!

LXiSebring...these all use 87 regular. Owners manuals are avail thru parts dept at chrysler. 98 and 99 models have been quite solid, no problems i can think of.

Steve Cogley writes

Good morning!

I own a 2000 Sebring and plan on keeping it until it quits. However, the heating /air control panel lights went out and now the radio lights did the same.

Both the heater and radio still work, but the dealer is saying it would be 400-500$ to fix becasue they have to replace the whole unit. Is this true or can it be fixed by replacing a fuse?

The car has got 113,000 miles on it and I just dropped $4,000 on paint, tires, timing belt, waterpump, plugs, distributor and a couple other things and don't really feel like spending any more money right now. Any help or suggestions would be great.


Eric says...I replaced my lights but it is quite a bit of work. I went in through the glove compartment to the back of the heater control. This was on a 96'

stabely writes

ok I just got a 2000 Chrysler Sebring LXi, I ended up looking for the car because my original(a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo) was totaled by a cell phone driver. So the search began, it was a choice of the Avenger or the LXi I found a black one for a good price and now I'm the proud owner of the car, only thing is it hasn't got a manual and I will more than likely have a few good questions here and there.

LXiSebring: Manuals should be available at the dealer parts dept.

Dawn Maddox writes

Hi, my name is Dawn Maddox. I have a 1996 Sebring Coupe. It has a automatic transmission. It is a 2.5l V6. I parked it under my carport and when I went to leave again it would not crank. I had just filled it up with gas. My father in law looked at it. My headlights are strong and radio and interior lights work, but it will not turn over. He put it in neutral and it cranked 2 times. He said it is the neutral safety switch. What do you think? He said he had to take out the console around my gear sift to get to it. Does this sound right? Thanks a lot.

Eric says...There was a recall on that, you may want to look into it. Try messsing with the brake pedal and pushing the shifter button a bunch of times and try again.

Evan writes

Hey, my names Evan, I'm 17 from Indiana. I would love to be apart of your club. I have a 1997, Chrysler Sebring LXI Coupe. 2.5 v6 stock 17in. rims, 5% window tint, all leather and woodgrain, all power,sunroof, custom cdplayer, racing chip, cold air intake, custom exaust. I love my car and i have little problems here and there i would like to discuss.

PPappert writes

hi, My name is Pam and I recently purchased a 2003 coupe. It is beautiful. It is the shiniest car around. It is maroon with black interior. I've had it 5 days and about 20 guys are interested in it. In fact, i think it just got me a date. The guy loves my car. Eveyone asks me what it is. The funny thing is, in 2000 i rented a car and got a 2000 beautiful white/gold trim coupe and fell in love with it. I had it for a week. I hated to give it up. I decided then that someday I would own one. My dealer kept an eye out for one and found me one with 37000 miles in immaculate condition. It has the infinity sound system. I especially like how the interior is black, yet the interior roof is off white. I just love driving this car. It puts a smile on my face. Cruzin with the roof open..... I am finally a proud owner. Thank-you Chrysler for one beautiful car.

LXiSEbring: send me some photos and I will post them.

Lauren writes

I found your website and i am the owner of a white 98 coupe sebring....I not sure if you can help me ...but i have been wanting to restore the interior roofing in my car...there are abunch of cigeratte burns in the interior and i was really wanting to fix them ...if you can help me figue out how to do so i would grealty appreciate it...if you get


LXiSebring: Well, for startings, any car upholstery shop should be able to replace the headliner pretty easily and inexpensively. Cigarette burns sometimes can be repaired, otherwise not. THe trick is to cut away the burned fibers and then glue fibers in taken from some inconspicuous spot in the car upholstery. Use a glue like Alene's tacky glue avail at crafts sores. If the burn is too large, this won't work very well.

James L. writes

I have a Red '97 Sebring LXi, 2.5, V6 65,000 miles...I'm experiencing engine noise...sound like there is not enough oil flowing through or over the rocker arms. Oil pressure is fine. Are those rocker arms adjustable?

Eric says...Well they are hydraulic lifters but maybe one of them is lazy and not pressurizing. Does it quit after a while? Do you use 10w30 oil?

a writes

HI, :) does the 1998 sebring has a a) hose fuel line or b) metal fuel line? thanks

Eric says ...I'm not sure but am assuming it is mostly metal.

a writes

hi mr can you send me a sebring manual i wanna know everything about this car because i have this one

Owners or service manual? Owners manuals are avail for sale at dealers parts depts I think. None are on line that I am aware.

MARIUSZ writes

Hello, It's me again ( MARIO from POLAND ) and I have next questions. Please send me if you know some internet address of shops, which in USA sells alloy wheels. I have found but they don't have to much alloy wheels to Chrysler Sebring Coupe1996 year. THANKS.



LXiSebring: sells them I think.

zshaquel writes

I have a blk 97 LXI that I have had for only 1 year. This is my second sebring coupe and I am so..... frustrated. I spent $5,000 & I own my car but the tab keeps running. recently spent $700 on a tune up and distributor and I am still not getting any fire. My car hasn't started in 3 months and I'm sick. Because I'm a female I get a lot of BS from machanics and I can't afford to keep dumping money into it. I love my car, please help me.

LxiSebring: Let's start at the beginning. What have you spent $5000 doing? $700 for a tuneup sounds like a dishonest mechanic, unless other work was done. Do you need a different car or a mnew mechanic??? YOU need to have a RELIABLE mechanic look at this. Sometimes a top dealer service dept is your best bet. THe guys who claim they can fix things on the cheap often learn mechanics on your $

Eric says ....Try a cam shaft or crank shaft sensor.

ERIC writes

These photos show...

The Sebring gets a fresh coat of DuPont clear (in a spray can) on the drivers door after I wet sanded a quite deep scratch out of the paint. I figured I would give it a shot and am pleased with the results...and the cost.

I also had to repaint the wiper arms in Rustoleum Black Satin which is one of the best paints I have found for covering rusty metal etc.

After one wheel cover was damaged on our White Outlander, I was able to sand it smooth and decided to paint it white. Allison really liked it too so they all ended up white. Rustoleum Again...

We have owned several white vehicles, but not in Pearl white. I really noticed the pearl after waxing the vehicle last weekend.

Rita writes

Hi, I would like to be a member of your site, I just purchased my 2004 Chrysler Sebring LX a few days ago and just love it! Rita Lucero Omaha NE

LXiSebring: See photos on the photo page

Terry writes

I would like to ask if there are any consumers out there who have had problems with the exterior door handles breaking on their sebrings. I have replaced my door handles twice within the last 2 years.. Is there any hope or someone I can email to get more information? Thanks

LXiSebring: That one is all new to me after 10 years. Now INTERIOR door handles routinely break.

Bob writes

Hello, My name is Bob. I have a 95 Sebring LXi with 260k kms on it. I have put 11k on it in the last 4 months. The car still runs perfectly, and had plenty of power to beat most newer cars. The body has a few little dings in it, but almost no rust. The interior is near perfect, with the exception of the driver seat, it is worn a lot, not surprising ofter that many kms, I would be too. If you need photos of the car, I would be more that happy to send them.

Thanks in Advance,

LXiSebring: Send photos and I will put htem up on the photo page.

Mike Edwards writes

Hi.Was wondering if anyone out there could help me in locating a front exhaust pipe (flex pipe) for a 96 sebring LXI 2.5 V6.My mechanic says they are priced around $650.00.would appreciate any help to find one cheaper.Thanks

LXiSebring: Anyone?

A.J. writes

Hello fellow Sebring owners. I just got mine & have some modification plans of my own. I will send you the after pics when completed! Here is the "before" pic, as it sits now after 2 weeks of ownership. Stay posted ... your gonna love this!

LXiSebring: See Featured Sebring "before pic" above and on photo page.

Will writes

wuzup fellow sebring owners! my name is Will and here are pics of my 1996 chrysler lxi sebring on 20 inch wheels with custom interior and custom kandy orange paint with spoiler, hope to hear what u guys have say about my chrysler oh yeah tell everybody 20" wheels does fit.

LxiSebring: see several photos of Will's Sebring on the photo page.

Bob writes

Hi, I recently got your e-mail from ownerseb.htm and am hoping you can help. I have a 95 Sebring LXi. The car runs great, and everything works, except it seems to be a pig on gas. I am only getting around 19-20mpg. The trouble code that comes up is 5 1, oxygen sensor indicating a lean fuel to air ratio. I changed the upstream O2 sensor, and that doesn't seem to help. I am a university student with a tight budget, and with gas prices the way they are, I can't afford to have a car guzzling gas. The car doesn't hesitate at all, it starts easily every morning. I haven't had any problems with it, except this. I hope that you can help me. Thanks in advanced, Bob

Eric says...There are two more O2 sensors, also the cat may be clogged. Besides, guessing you do some town driving too, thats about right. The car weighs 3500 lbs. Try running 87 Octane gas too.

david writes

I have a 2000 Chrysler Sebring V6. It has started missing a little while idling. It increases when I have it in Drive or in Reverse. Also I started to change the Spark Plugs on it, but how is that supposed to happen. WHo in the heck came up with the wiring of the spark plugs and their placement. WHat is the easiest way to change these? Thanks,

Eric says...You have to take off the plenum just like most v-6 cars. I would suggest using Mopar plugs and wires.

Kevin Keith writes

Hi my name is Kevin I live in Indiana. My father bought a 98 Chrysler Coupe Sebring in 1998. It has been an excellent car but in the past few months, it has died a few times on him and usually starts right back up but not always. We have had 3 trusted mechanics look at this with diagnostic hook ups and still can't figure it out. Have you heard of this? I am thinking about buying the car. It only has 70-thousand miles on it.

LXiSebring: UNder what circumstances does it die? parked at idle or driving down the road? The diagnosis is very different depending on when this happens.

Josh writes

Howdy...My name is Josh and I suppose you're my new best friend. I saw your name on the sebring owner's page and figured maybe you could help me with a couple of things. I bought a used avenger a few months back that had a bad motor. Rather than spend all kinds of money on a new motor, I started looking for avenger/ sebring coupes with the same motor on wrecked car auctions. I finally bought a 96 sebring coupe that looked to be in bad shape in the auctoin pics, but when I got it turned out to be in fair condition in need of not too much repair. I've bought and replaced every panel that was damaged so far except the front bumper cover (cost is the major issue here) so I have been looking on ebay for a cheaper used version. One question I have is: will the newr looking bumper covers up to 00 fit right on or would they need modifying, and what will this do to the overall effect of the trim. Am I setting myself up to drive a silly looking car? And my second question is: what is the best motor to put in the Avenger if I am looking to make that a horsepower machine...I read everything on the website about the motors but I couldn't get an idea of whether the 3.0 will fit in it or which year of 2.5 has the most horseys. also it says that only the 2.0 comes with a manuel trans. Can this same manuel be used in the 2.5, or is there any that will match up. I can't tell you how much I would appreciate you being able to answer any of the questions, or even simply point me in the right dirrection.

Thanks for your time,

Eric says...First off, The bumper cover for the 95-96 has a false grille and smooth cladding, the 97 + front end would look silly if you could even get it to work. You could look for a body kit and make something work there.

2.5 Auto

2.0 Auto or manual

Those are your choices, Most 2.0 Neon parts will work on the 2.0 Sebring but watch because the exhaust is opposite. You can do cams, valves, turbos, headers etc. This would be the engine to build.

The other snag is that automatic transmission, it is computer controlled and your going to confuse/overpower it. The Sebring never was a real performer and that transmission really doesnt help matters.

Also check out ASOG those guys modify just about everything. Personally I'd buy an Eclipse with a turbo and AWD and be done. The interior is almost identical, in fact the doors are the same, there is a big void behind that plastic panel on the Sebring door and it looks just like the one on the Eclipse,Talon,Avenger.

Allen writes

Hi How can I tell about my sebring lxi 1998 and have it posted ib this web site any chance of getting info on rebuilt transmission v6 lxi coupe

LXiSebring: drop me a note with the info. No leads on a transmission, tho you might check local transmission shops.

Jack Carlson writes

T I recently purchased a 2001 Sebring LXi V6 automatic with 29,000 miles. Is there any way to reduce the idle speed more quickly from a cold start? If I immediately put the trans in forward or reverse when cold and idling at 1500 the trans makes a growning noise for 30 - 60 seconds - is this normal? It seems to run and shift fine.

LXiSebring:THere are some idle speed controllers and adjustments, but this is technical stuff and probably calls for a mechanic who knows exactly what he is doing Your transmission should not groan. Have the noise checked out.

Eric says AC motor could be dirty or bad. What your doing is much better for the car. The valve body in the transmission could also be dirty.

Darwin Moore writes

Thought you would have some knowledge of where the fuel filter on a '95 Chrysler Sebring would be. Its a 2.5litre V6 coupe and my manual says it should be behind the gas tank. To get to it you have to remove the taillights and rear I did and for the life of me I can not find the fuel filter....My haynes doesn't really differentiate models before 2001 except for coupe, sedan or convertible...the coupes ff is suppose to be behind the gas tank on the frame---I'm sorry but I didn't see it there. I know that the elec. fuel pump is under the rear seat and that it has a strainer on it---is this the fuel filter? This is my daughters' car any help or direction on where to get help would be appreciated. The problem she claims is that occasionally it will just die, runs fine, idles fine, accelerates fine and will run that way for days and then she says it just dies like it loses fuel, most of the time she will wait a while and it will start...I put mid octane gas in it for her, about every 3 months I put gas treatment in her tank to keep the injectors clean--- slick50. I change the air filter regularly---I will admit I don't change the plugs like I should because I don't like to take all that electrical crap off the engine just to get to the intake to remove it for access to the plugs...But this doesn't sound like plugs or injectors to me....??? Any leads---- Max

LXiSebring: I think the fuel filter is actually INSIDE the tank. THis is dealer mechanic stuff. I worry you have gunk in the gas tank.

G writes

T hey my name is G and me and my girl own a 96 sebring im having trobule with two things...

1 the stop and tail light fuses keeps on blowin ????? what should i do

2 My Sunroof doesnt work and there is no fuse for it anywhere>>??? and it doesnt even make a noise like if it could be the motor please email me back

ERIC SAYS...Have your car checked for a short.

Shirley says

Good afternoon: I was just looking at your website and found it very informative. I have a 2001 sebring and have had literally no problems with it. I have bought new tires and have had the front brake pads changed and regular (very regular) oil changes. I have 110,000 miles on the car (bought it new so most is highway driving) and am about to get the front brakes totally replaced and need a new hub bearing on the front left wheel (oh yes, the front right one was already changed). My question, I have bought a timing belt to have it replaced (as I have been advised to even though am not experiencing any problems) and just wondered what kind of labour hours I'm looking at for this job. I have been told anywhere from 2 to 6 (which seems unrealistic to me). Also, my ck engine light is on and I was told it was the egr valve which I replaced but light is still on. What if I unplug the fuse under the hood as you had suggested to someone else? Any assistance you can give me is appreciated. Thanks!

Eric says...I would do both, it's not that your belt will break it's that if it does valves will meet pistons. Preventative measure. Use OEM or gates belts, and you can pull the fuse and plug it back in if you like.

LXiSebring: THe Sebring engines are designed so the valves wont meet pistons if the timing belt breaks, but you will be stuck on the road.

Anja writes


I think you once helped me with a dealership problem about two years ago. I bought my Sebring in 2003. My warranty expires in March of 2006. After having my Sebring repainted (paint started to faint after only one year!) I now have a new problem: Yesterday I discovered that a small parto the sunroof weather stripping is missing. It looks just like somebody cut it out with a sharp knife. It's in the front middle and I can see through the hole from inside the car!

I brought the car to the dealer (not where I bought the car but a new five-star dealer) where I was told that "there must have been a small part which must have fallen off" and that I should go to an after-market place to have it replaced. As far as I remember the stripping was one piece but I would love to find out if that's true. I also believe that this should be covered under warranty, shouldn't it? Any tips or recommendations are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Anja

LXiSebring: The dealer gave you good advice. THey would likely know what seal is needed and be able to reopair the problem, as they install sunroofs every day.

Nancy writes

I 'm stuck at home 15 miles from town because after I disconnected battery to get inside lights to turn off, the security system activated and I can't get it to shut off so #1 Ican turn off that loud horn #2 I can once again start my car. are you still around and can you help me. Thanks Nancy

LXiSebring: Try turning the key in the door lock. May be undergood switch too.


I finally got it, but I had to have my keyless entry repaired. Thanks for the help.

Alfred writes

Found your individual web pages and would like to join your group. I have a 1996 Sebring LXI coupe, low miles, and in excellent condition, purchased new. White Silver. Let me know how I can join your group.

LXiSebring: You are in! Tell us about your car.

I have a 1996 LXI, white silver, fully optioned with 92,300 miles. Bought it new in Michigan and kepted it garagedat my home in Dallas. It was in storage in NYC for close to two years while I taught at a university in the Middle East. The Sebring drives and looks like new as I have always taken care of it. I think it drives even better than new since I had a set of Goodyear Assurance ComforTred's installed last winter. Best tires I have ever owned. Last week just had all the lower body silver repainted and all buffed and polished. I moved to Ottawa Canada two years ago and that was the first two winters the car was ever driven in snow.Before I have rust problems (none now) I am taking it in today for a full rust prevention treatment at a place that has been highly recommended by some local people (who know a great deal about rust). I only drive about 8,000 miles a year, or less, and most of that is due to two annual trips to the states and each visit is 2,000 miles round trip. I might be picking up another car from a relatives estate next December so the Sebring will even be driven less and hopefully last for many years. Its a great car and I have been very happy with it. I also like it because there are very few Sebrings here in Canada so it still draws attention.

Thanks for contacting me and I look forward to following your group.

Al Baucom

1 the stop and tail light fuses keeps on blowin ????? what should i do

2 My Sunroof doesnt work and there is no fuse for it anywhere>>??? and it doesnt even make a noise like if it could be the motor please email me back

You have a short somewhere. These can be tough to track down even if the car were in front of me. I suspect the tywo problems are related somehow. ARE you sure the sunroof isnt on the same fuse circuit as the stop/taillights? THe suroof motor could be blowing that fuse if they are. YOu are probably going to need to take it into someone who is good at tracing circuits.

James writes

I have a 98 sebring that overheated on my blow a head gasket. The transmission was also going and won't shift into overdrive due the the "failsafe" non sense Chrysler installed. Do you know of any good sites that will have sebring motors and transmissions or even cylinder heads for a pretty reasonable price?

LXiSebring: you need to find a donor sebring that has been rear ended but has a good engine and tranny

Ok, i have tried that but in Alabama its like finding a needle in a haystack, the closes i've come was a 99 model and i wasn't sure if the motor and transmission would fit it my sebring without changing the computer and wire harness.

LXiSebring: close but you may need a good mechanic.

Cbm writes

Have any idea on how to replace broken drivers side door handle? Or where can I get info on same? Thanks

Eric responds.... I know people here have done it, I never have.

LXiSebring: I havent done it either--its not that easy.

Josh writes

I found your email address on the Sebring Coupe Owner's Page website and it said that you would help people out as much as possible with questions regarding the older models of the Sebrings. This car is my girlfriend's car and it seems like we've had a lot of problems with it lately and are very close to trading it in for a newer car.

After hitting numerous things the lower front fascia has been broken in half for quite a while now and was dragging on the ground so I ended up just cutting it off instead of fixing it (probably a mistake). Never thought it would really cause any issues, but over the last month or so there has been quite a few days of 110+ temps (We live in AZ). On days like that when driving on the highway with the AC on, the car eventually overheats. Turning off the AC usually allows the temperature to creep back down to an acceptable range.

It seemed like an efficiency problem, so I started with the basics. I've replaced the thermostat, put a new radiator cap on, and added some Watter Wetter type of additive, but unfortunately the car continues to overheat on hot days on the highway w/ the AC on. I took it into the shop today w/ thoughts they would just end up flushing it out and then go from there; however, to my surprise, they checked out the basic temps in and out of the radiator and couldn't find any problems. I told them that the coolant seemed a bit dirty, but they were convinced that it would not affect the cooling capability, however I am not so sure.

They eventually decided that the lack of a front lower fascia was causing an air flow problem and that is why the car was overheating under a certain load. While looking at the incredibly restrictive front bumper cover, I can see how it's possible that no front fascia could cause airflow problems. So my question is, how important is the lower front fascia to the airflow over the radiator? Could lack of the front fascia cause poor airflow and eventual overheating when the conditions are right (temp, speed, aerodynamic pattern)?

With new front bumpers going for over $800, I'm trying to decide what my best next step would be. Any suggestions?

Thanks for any help you could provide,

Josh Corbin

Eric says...First off, running the A/C ensures that the fan is always on. It may be that your temp sensor is bad. This is common on Sebrings. Does you temp. rise and fall very quickly? Of course this is impossible and usually means a false reading. Turn the A/C on and verify that both fans are running. Let me know what you find. Also is the surface of your radiator clean allowing air to flow through? Drain is in the bottom corner, it is plastic with a small hose on the end.

Have a pressure test done to see if it holds pressure (not leaking) You could have a blown head gasket and at speed and load it seeps and spikes a temperature. A car can not heat up that quickly or cool down that quickly. Get a new temp sendor and see if that works and do the pressure test.

Mikhail Ratchkovski writes

I just bought a 2001 Sebring LXI coupe with a manual transmission ,it was working perfect except the battery needed to be replaced. After the battery got replaced at a commercial battery outfit, (it took about 10 minutes and I watched them doing it) I started the car and when let go of the gas pedal it immediatelly stalled. I started the car again and again and it started perfectly every time and as long as I kept my foot on the pedal it was running, but wouldn't idle. Every time I took my foot off the gas pedal and the rpm wend down it stalled. When I asked the mechaninc what was the problem, he told me that this is a "Chrysler thing" and the computer will be automatically reset in about 15k... feeling a bit uneasy about the 15k deal I took off stalling at every red light.

After abut 50k I still had the same problem with stalling so I called the mechanic again. This time he put me on hold and then consulted with other "electricians" who told me that I should turn the lock manually 5 times on the passenger side. Then drive another 15k and then the computher will be reset. Indeed this sounded silly and I inquired if he was "for real", after being reassured that this is a genuane technique used by Chrysler to reduce autotheft I performed the ritual and kept driving... well it is now over a 100k and I have turned keys in multiple combinations in every lock in my car including the trunk...

I'm feeling quite puzzled as of why a simple battery change would produce such results. Obvously I'm going to take it to a licenced Chrysler mechanic now, but just in case if someone knows an answer to this predicament would you please comment. Thank you.

LXiSebring: Chrysler Sebrings have small batteries need new batteries every 2 years, and do strange things when the battery is even a little bad. Try replacing your battery with one from the dealer and I think you will have fewer problems. They are about $79.95

Anthony writes

Hi, I found your email address when I was searching the net trying to find information on the above. I just picked up this vehicle for my daughter, but it does not have an owners manuel. Can you PLEASE tell me how to setup the garage opener that is on the sun visor to work with my garage. THANK YOU


LXiSebring: I don't know how to do this. Does anyone here know?

Dana writes Probably the best vehicle I've ever owned..I hate to give it up and because I installed a rust-proof device, this baby looks like ti just stepped out of the showroom.

Marie writes

I have a 98 Sebring LXI Coupe and I am having the most horrendous time finding the OEM Muffler system for it... Can you maybe point me in the right direction.

LXiSebring: Anyone? A dealer should be able to help here. Keri writes

hello, i found your site by luck. I just bought a 2004 Sebring Coupe. I love it. I keep going outside and just staring at it. Then again, it might be because this is the first car I bought since 1994.

I would like to be a member on your site, but do you have any links that I can get accessories for my new car Thanks

LXiSebring: You are in!

Bob writes

uHi: I just wanted to add my name to your Sebring Coupe membership. I drive a 2000 Sebring LXi, 2.5L. I've included a picture of my vehicle and will continue to visit your site periodically. Thanks for your research.

LXiSebring: See featured Sebring above and tyhe Photo page.

John writes

Hi I have a 1995 green lx i was wondering if i could join your web site, I also have a question do you know if the leather seats from a lxi will bolt into a lx thanks,

LXiSebring: You are in! See John's Sebring on the Photo page <

Dodebs writes

T I just purchased a sebring and was nothing but happy. Got it at a very good price and it is a beutiful car. Today the check enging light started coming on. I was told to disconnect the battery to reset the diagnostics. Has any one else had this problem. The car has 48,000 miles on it. HELP.

LXiSebring: You need to get ttthe dealer to diagnose the code as to why the check engine light came on. Probably a bad emissions sensor or component.

Susan writes

Hi, I have a 97 sebring and I am having electrical problems with my stereo speakers. They are cutting off one by one. I have lost the power to my door speakers and am in the process of losing power of the front speakers. If anyone can tell me if it might be the wiring or the speakers it would be a great help. They are infiniti speakers. Thanks.

LXiSebringProbably a loose or corroded connector, but if you are losing sound on all speakers at once there are bigger problems, in need of diagosis by a decent car stereo shop. Usually its cheaper and simpler to replace the radio/cd player as a unit than to diagnose the problem.

Sertac writes My cigarettle lighter does not work and I figured may be the fuse needs to be changed. When I looked at the box, I saw that the cover is missing. So I dont know which fuse is for the cigarette lighter. Is there anyway you can help me out having a picture of the fuse box diagram or tell me which one is for the lighter?

LXiSebring What year Sebring? Generally if the fuse is bad something else on the same circuit doesnt work ie dome light or power window. Cigarette lighters aren't separately fused. So chances are the lighter itself is bad not the fuse unless there are other non-working items.

Bob Bigwood writes

I'm getting a 2005 Sebring and I was wondering where you got the Gold lettering and trim for your Sebring. I asked the dealership and they said they did not offer it. Could you please let me know.

LXiSebring: anyone?

h Christopher writes

Greetings! The ABS trouble dash lamp came on and the brakes were acting funny so I took my coupe to my mechanic. He told my the code reported an intermittent problem which he was unable to diagnose. Later noise came from somewhere under the box that houses the fusible links in the engine compartment and the battery was completely discharged. This has happened intermittently several times. The brakes seem to be getting worse. Any insight you may have would be most appreciated as my budget is quite limited. Thankyou for taking time to read this and God bless!

Eric says ...Pull the fuse/breakers for the ABS system. It''s supplemental anyhow. You will just have normal brakes.

Ssheil writes

Do u know any good repair of my sebring acts like its out of gas and wont start...but it has a full check engine hopeless and don't know what to do. thank you for your time

LXiSebring: I forwarded this to Eric..Others feel free to respond as well. .

Anita writes

Hello! I need some direction please....

My 1998 chrysler sebring stalls out when I am driving it, the engine light will flash but not stay on. It restarts but I cant get a good diagnostic reading. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


Eric says.... Need more info. During idle, up hills, when first started, warmed up?

Kristina writes

I just bought a 1999 Sebring Coupe and the rim of one of the tires is bent. The dealer I bought it from says they cannot find a replacement and I was hoping some one could tell me where I can find one. The problem is that the rim is a white one. They can find the chrome but not the white. Any help would be great. Also, I loved your website I will keep checking it for new information.

LXiSebring: Can anyone help on this? I think the right wheel shop can often fix bent rims. Check that out.

Orseno writes

I have a white 1997 Sebring LXi coupe. I love it!! When I bought it used, the check engine light was on. I finally took it to Auto Zone and had them check it with their computer. I replaced all of the O2 sensors, one at a time, and the light went off. The main problem I have is that the front bumper is so low to the ground that it scrapes on just about anything . speed bumps, driveways with any sort of incline, pot holes . and it is now cracked. Any suggestions on how to fix it without replacing the whole thing?

I also have to replace my head gasket because it has a hole in it, probably from scraping it, too!! This is pretty pricey and my husband wants me to just sell the car instead of fixing it, but NO WAY!!!

LXiSebring: A Body shop might be able to repair some cracks in inconspicuous places with fiberglass tape and body putty.

Diana writes

just got 1 2002 sebring today,but no owners manual.Can u tell me why the air would quit qorking and the yellow light that lets you know it is on is flashing.When i went back later the light didnt flash and the air seemed cool again.I would still like an owners manual

The owners manual is a part that can be ordered at any Chrysler dealer parts dept. Not sure why the light was blinking, but if it happens again shut down the AC and fan and then restart entirely.

HEIDI writes Great info on the website, hope you can help me with this problem! The locks/windows control unit on the drivers-side door armrest in my '96 Sebring LXI came loose & fell through into the door panel. The unit still functions (if you stick your fingers through the holes to reach the controls!), but I want to reposition it back where it belongs. I haven't taken the door panel off yet, for fear of unintentionally disconnecting or breaking I thought I'd ask for help first. Is it as simple as removing the perimeter door panel screws & taking the door panel off to access whatever holds the unit in place? Can you please tell me what I need to do to reattach?

LXiSebring: I've never taken this apart but maybe some of you who have can help here.

Steve Vasilopus writes

Hello, I would like to join the owners page. I just bought a 2004 chrysler sebring coupe limited, pearl blue, very nice car. Can you tell me anything I should look out for with this year Sebring. Thank you.

LXiSebring: send us a photo for the photo page

Melissa Parker writes

Hey David. Hope you had a good vacation. My question is... I have a 2001 Sebring LXi with 47K miles. I have had the brakes replaced, the tires replaced and some other minor things. However, recently I noticed a 'clicking' noise around my left front tire. I took it to the dealership where all my other work has been performed and found out that the left front lower control arm and the tie rod needed to be replaced. I'm wondering if this is a common problem for this year and if it could have been found when my brakes were replaced.

Thanks for your help and listening to my grumbles. I absolutely love my car (also had a 2000 Sebring but was involved in an accident) and want to keep it in tip-top shape. Any suggestions will be welcomed! :)

Sebrings of all years seem to have assorted suspension problems. The good news is that they are fixable.

Bill Tabor writes

To be honest, I'm a Ford man at heart, but over the years have owned three new Dodge/ Chrysler vehicles. This of course includes my most recent purchase of a new '05 Chrysler Sebring LX Coupe. Since 1970, Chrysler products seemed to be on a down hill slide, poor body fit, electrical/ mechanical problems, etc. But since Chrysler had joined w/ Mitsubishi, I now have more confidence in their product. I've owned two Chrysler Sebring Coupes in my time, newly purchased, and both having the Mitsubishi 4 cylinder engine/ transmission. My first Sebring Coupe was a sleek 97 model with the pistol grip type shifter ( Automatic ). And of course, the newly purchased 05 Sebring Coupe that I now speak of. In my opinion, there are great differences between the '97 and '05 Sebring Coupe that is worth mentioning. The '97 coupe no doubt was a head turner, but suffered from poor body fit, a buzzing sound each time that I moved the pistol grip shifter from park to reverse and then to drive once again. The interior noise level was embarrasing, as all of that plastic cladding on the exterior made horrible squeeking sounds as if I were riding in a 1980 Corvette. Everyone who ever rode in this vehicle with me would always ask what that terrible noise was, and of course, the people at the Chrysler garage told me that a few bolts beneath the vehicle were loose, nothing to worry about, but, the noise continued to grow louder until I couldn't take it anymore, and had traded the vehicle for a new 1999 Mercury Cougar V-6. However, the one common thing that my 1997 Sebring Coupe had shared with that of my newly purchased '05 Sebring Coupe was warped front rotors, fresh off the showroom ! I really think that Chrysler should enhance its' Q/A program and get with the program ! Don't these people that work at Chrysler dealerships test drive the vehicle for at least one mile prior to their attempting to sell a vehicle to a perspective buyer ? In any event, I had returned to Chrysler once again, only due to my being upside down on the vehicle that I wanted to trade for a new vehicle, and being that Chrysler was the only company that was willing to work with me on the numbers to bring me within a reasonable figure that I was willing to pay for a new vehicle. Being that the Viper and Crossfire are for the elite few, ( I like sports cars ) the only alternative that I had as far as chosing a vehicle from Chrysler that was sporty in appearance was the sleek '05 Chrysler Sebring LX Coupe that had that chopped top appearance and aero look to it. Surprisingly, the Mitsubishi 4 cylinder engine is not as weak as the car critic's say it is, it powers the vehicle with ease, and hitting 80-90 MPH is no problem at all, this vehicle is a spirited highway cruiser. The noise level of the 4 cylinder engine is not as bad as the car critic's claim also, and is only notable under hard acceleration from a standing stop, or passing a vehicle when climbing a hill. I have the touring suspension with the '05 Coupe, and I am extremely pleased with it's smooth/ quiet ride, and the vehicle manuvers and negotiates sharp turns/ bends with sports car like handling, as there is no body roll, and the vehicle remains nearly even during hard cornering and sharp manuvers. One thing that I'm very happy to report, the 05 Sebring Coupe's body is a good tight fit, all exterior parts are in line with one another and fit well, and as you close the doors, you hear a low tone pleasing thud, which tells you that the '05 Sebring Coupe is built extremely well. The negatives to this vehicle as I had previously said, were the front rotors being warped at time of delivery, and even though pleasing to the eye, the high body stance of the rear of the vehicle makes this vehicle difficult to judge distance when parking, as it becomes difficult to see clearly over the trunk/ rear of vehicle, as you are seated low in the drivers seat, and your vision can become obstructed/ limited due to mentioned above, and also by the post seperating front/ rear side windows behind driver. Also, and although being the law, and necessary for ones safety, the addition of seat belts can also add to your limitation of vision, and ability to turn your upper body to the left, in order to see who/ what is approaching from the left side or left rear of vehicle, as once again, you are cramped and seated low, and being tangled-up in that seat belt doesen't help matters. I know, that's what your rear view mirror is for, exterior mirrors, etc., but it doesen't always work that way in all situations. The interior of the '05 was not as nice as the '97 that I previously owned, it was very plain and dull in regard to the insturmentation display/ design, and all of the materials used for the interior, from the cheap looking plastic dash components, door and kick pannels, to the lack of a standard equipped leather wrapped steering wheel was a huge minus for a vehicle that on a scale of 1 to 10, rates a 10 for exterior appearance and build quality. I didn't care for the hard plastic on the rear of the front bucket seats either, and I'm sure someone will soon tell me that sitting in the rear seat reminds them of being seated on a rollacoaster, as they are similar in appearance ! The interior seating, although comfortable and having good support for the driver and passanger, they could have used a little more cushion. All in all, I'd rate this vehicle a 10 for exterior appearance and build quality, in my opinion it's the best looking Sebring to date. I'd also rate this vehicle a 10 in dependability due to it's Mitsubishi engine/ transmission as being the standard engine for this model, as I've always had problems with Chrysler built engines in the past, not to mention electrical fires inside vehicle due to sub-par wiring. The interior quality I would rate at a 5, ride/ handling a 9. Performance of the I-4 engine a 7.5, as you get ample acceleration and above average performance when crusing on the highway, and it's very easy on gas also, and that makes this combo just right for the times. Great looks, ample performance, and friendly at the pumps = the 05 Chrysler Sebring LX Coupe, base version.

Bryent writes

Hello, I searched your site in regards to this. I have a 97 Sebring LXI with the Infinity System. It appears that the Dash Mounted speakers have either blown out or are not connected properly. I want to give them a look but cant seem to figure out how to get to those little bastards. I've tried looking for screws or flaps that I can pop out, but nothing. Do I need to get to them from under the hood? Do I have to remove the whole dashboard? Do they just rotate out or something that is easy to do? Finding a replacement for them should be hard to do since another reader at your site has mentioned this.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I just want to know how to get to those little speakers so I can look at them myself to see what the problem is and why they are not playing.

LXiSebring: I am checking with eric on how you migfht get in there, but the real trick is finding replacement speakers that fit and sound ok. These are semi-full range drivers, not merely tweeters, and there is little magnet clearance. A place like Crtutchfields that usually carries everything like this draws a blank for a replacement driver. I've heard rumors that even CHrysler no longer stocks them.

Nick writes

T hi my name is nick, i just recieved a 98 sebring lxi...i was looking through the owners photos pages and saw a perosn named LEE's picturs of a black sebirng and he has redone the control panel and i was wondering if you had some sort of contact info to him so i could get his help...thanks alot... i wuold also liek to become a member...thank!! nick

LXiSEbring: In the archives there is no doubt a guy named LEE who has the car you described and there will be an email address for him. I have no idea if LEE still owns the car or the email address is current, but that would be a start. Do a search of each year's archile for LEE And see what pops up.

Fred writes

My wife & i bought this 98 sebring lxi in may 2002. we both like the car , however at times the car just wont start--the dash lights come on , there's plenty of juice in the battery ,it cannot be jumped. once after waiting 15 minutes it started right up.another time this happened in my garage & i had it towed to the dealer's @ that time they told me it was the i payed up & took the car home. it was fine for quite a while , then yesterday --same thing -- another tow job , this time they're selling me a starter for about $300.00 i wont get the car till mon. or tues. i think the problem is in the anti-theft circuitry. but i don't know how to reset the [2345dfghjcvbn5! thing . any help you can give me will save me a lot of headaches @ $$$$$

Eric says... Something like this, you have to trust the mechanic and bite the bullet. Maybe it's a starter solenoid and they think you need a whole starter. Maybe it's not the starter, who knows. These kinds of problems are just not able to be diagnosed through email. Ilie writes

Based on your knowledge/experience how often the transmission should be serviced? My car has only 47,000 miles but I intend to keep this car for awhile specially that the car is not driven during the winter. What other recommendation will you have in regard to the maintenance of this vehicle so it can last for another 4 to 5 years? Thanks a lot

LXiSebring Pull the transmission dipstick and check the level but in particular the color of hte fluid. It should not have a brownish cast. Ordinarily, the fluid would be changed after about 75,000 miles. Rissa writes

Came across this page and decided to show my '99 Chrysler Sebring LXI I just bought 2 months ago. I love this car, but the only problem is the brakes. Rotor has been smoothed out on front right brake and all pads have been changed. Not even an hour later after having this done, that front right brake started to squeak and it's still squeaking. I've read about how to resolve this issue with the brakes and I'm going to give it a try. Will let you know as soon as I get it done. Options installed on the car: 2.5L V6 engine and an automatic transmission

Power Windows
Trip Odometer
AM/FM Radio
Air Conditioning
CD Player
Rear Shoulder Harness
Remote for Keyless Entry
Rear Defroster
Power Sunroof
Cup holder
Map Lights
Reclining Seats
Leather Seats
Vanity Mirror
Interior Wood Trim
Power Door Locks
Bucket Seats
Tilt Steering Wheel
Cruise Control
Power Mirrors
Anti-lock Brakes Power Steering
Power Door Locks
Cassette Player
Tilt Wheel
Air Conditioning
Power Driver Seat
CD Player
Custom Wheels
Cruise Control
Power Windows
Sliding Sunroof
I think I'll be a Chrysler buyer from now on!

LXiSebring: Welcome to the Club!

Javier writes

I am having problems with my 99 Sebring. On Idle its rough and in drive it will backfire from the bottom of the car and with chuggs. Would you happen to know what is wrong with the car.

I replaced the Cap, Roter, Wires, plugs, timing belt, crank sensor......

Eric says : O2 sensor or clogged catalytic converter

Chad writes

Hi guy, My name is Chad and I am the proud owner of a golden 1999 sebring Lxi. I love this car and this site to death. I was looking for specs on the door speakers when I came upon this page. I have had several of the problems I read about on this site, and thanx to you guys I know how to fix most of them. Passenger door lock, handle, dash speaker, all gone. :( . Anyhow, I would love to become part of the club.

LXiSebring: Welcome to the club!

Bruce writes

I live in CT. where we have just adopted a strict emissions testing protocol. Check engine light was on so I had my car serviced, {new O2 sensors, catalytic converter} my mechanic cleared all fault codes and returned car to me. Car will not be accepted by emissions computer because my system moniters need to be reset by taking the car through the manufacturers drive cycle.

My mechanic never heard of drive cycle and niether has the Chrsyler dealership mechanic. so I'm doing what the state's emission guru has told me to do, which is access the web and download the drive cycle calibration test for my 1997 6 cylinder 2.5 l. 2door sedan coup and than take it with me to the dealership. DO you know where or who would be able to provide me with that info?

Eric says :I have never heard of that. Search the web I guess..?

Vitaly writes

Hello! I have LXiSebring, I want to be a member of your club and what I need to do for it. I live in Ukraine and there is only 3 person who has the same car so I want to find a friends who can help me and discuss with me this car. I hope you help me! Thank a lot, Vitaly.

LXiSebring: You are in the club

jason writes

I have a 2003 Silver Sebring LX. It is great, but I see surface rust inthe engine compartment. Mainly where the welds are!  I read that theEclipse, (same car) does the same and that Mitsu won't do anythingabout it. Do you know if Chrysler will do anything?  Have you heard orseen this?

Eric says... I have not seen it. I'd like a picture to try and determine what is going on. Look on the NHTSA web site under complaints for this model. Try the Eclipse too.

EricD NY Writes

Hello,,,first time email. I have a 1996. I did a search on OBD/Readiness Driving Procedures in my Google search and came to this site. I was impressed with this site and all the info you have collected, NICE WORK.

Ok, so,when my car failed to pass New York State Car inspection due to my OBDII

ODB Monitor Readiness Status:
catalyst--------------------------------Not Ready
Evaporative System---------------Not Ready
Oxygen Sensor---------------------Not Ready
Oxygen Sensor Heator----------Not Ready
EGR System------------------------Not Ready

So I guess this OBD/Readiness Prcoedures is a way that I need to drive my car to get the test to start in my cars computer? So how do I make my car start this test? any info will help !!

Eric says...Does it run? Is the connector bad under the dash? Is the engine light on? Does it have any codes? Is the gas mileage bad?

Andrew writes

Hi, I have a 1997 Sebring LX. It's all stock and I'm still paying for it actually as I bought it used. My question is, do you or any Sebring owner you know, know if and where they have custom front fascias for this model that isn't so low to the ground? After bending that bottom piece of plastic back a few times, it finally cracked. It'll cost me about $1400 to replace and I'll still have the same problem with it being to low. I live in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, so we get some pretty crummy weather here. Any assistance you may be able to provide would be greatly appreciated.

LXiSebring: I am not aware of any out there. Someone who reads this might know for sure and can contact you. This has been a problem from day 1.

Rob writes

I have a 99 Sebring Coupe and I have been having prob's with it overheating the last few months... Not enough to cook the engine but definitely enough to make me nervous. It typically overheats while under a load, ie. climbing a grade. Under normal driving conditions, though, I have a constant swing in the temperature guage from horizontal to about 25 degrees above the horizontal (just above the little thermometer). What's worse is the fan doesn't actually kick on until the guage hits the high mark. The temperature increases slowly until the fan finally kicks on and cools it down to where the gauge is horizontal again. What's more... with the A/C on, the same fan kicks on when the temp shows just barely above the mid-level mark.

My mechanic swears the engine is in one piece (no blown head gasket) so he is replacing the water pump this week (already has new stat and rad). I still have a hard time thinking the temperature set points for the fan aren't also screwed up somehow. Could there be a bad relay? Could someone have hacked into my car's computer and changed the trigger point for the coolant fan (lol)...? Oh yeah.. I also went to Chrysler and bought the temperature switch that triggers the fan with no effect.... Any ideas?

Eric says... Change the coolant temp sensor and gauge sender $40 Also, the A/C will call the auxillary fan to run. If that fan turns on with the A/C off, your too hot.

Jay writes

Hi, Hoping that you can help me with my niece's Sebring. It is a 2.5 V-6 and I can't get it to start. I have changed the rotor and dist cap and no effect. I do no get spark while cranking. If I spray starter fluid it seems to try to start for 2 seconds then nothing. Tested the wires with a light while cranking and get nothing. Any ideas?? And am I correct that this year has no chip in key? Thanks for your time. Jay...Ohio

Eric writes... Aftermarket Alarm ?? Could be a cam or crank sensor. Check the codes. Key on-off-on-off-on quickly.

Jay responds... You called was the crank sensor! Thank you for your help.

Robert Melton writes

I came across Sebring owners page, thought you'd enjoy some of my pics, and info visit &CID=90 to see some detailed info about my ride

LXiSebring: also see photos on the photo page.

Sakina writes

Hey I dont know if you would have the answer to this, but I ran across your webpage online. I have a 96 Sebring and after a night or partying I left the key in the ignition all night. Now it simply wont start. I called AAA and they couldnt even jump it. I think itmay have something to do with the security system. I lost my owners manual; any idea what it could be??

LXiSebring: Try locking the doors, then use the key, not the remote to open the driver door. I have been told that turning the key in the door lock resets the security system. Otherwise try disconnecting the positive terminal of the battery. Leave it disconnected a minute or two. THen reconnect. That resets everything. Like powering down and restarting a computer cold boot.

Sakina responds hey david thanks for your help. it ended up being a fuse. go figure :)

Brandon writes

Hey i just recently purchased a 2001 sebring LXI and was wondering if there is something I can do to get an extra 30-50 horses without doing much harm to the engine in the long run. Also i was wondering where i could find some pics of that chrome grill you talked about for the front.

LXiSebring: not easily as it messes up the emissions and the computer.

Donnie writes

I ordered our 1997 Sebring Coupe for my wife for Christmas of '96. It arrived in late January, 1997. It is "bright" white, LXi and has been with us for the past 8 years.

Overall it has been a great car, even though it is underpowered. The biggest problem that we had with it is the undersized front break rotors. They overheat and warp and the brakes squeak. We finally solved this problem after many years by installing ceramic pads-fixed the warping problem and the squeaking problem.

My question:

The front bumper assembly (the one piece plastic part that surrounds the grill, headlights, parking lights, etc) has become cracked by numerous curb run-ins. Do you know where we can buy one of these assemblies without going back to Chrysler? We have had the bottom part that is broken repaired but it just comes loose and sags.

Thanks for the help,

LXiSebring: Tough to find!! YOU might have luck at an auto recycler (junk yard) Many of these guys are linked on computer now and can locate pieces out of state even.

Randalyn writes

My check engine lit keeps coming on and there is a ticking in the engine. I am not sure what is wrong. We have had a new distributor put in and tune up. This is the first time we have ever had trouble with our car at all. Please somebody help me.

Eric says... Is this prior or post distributor and tune-up? Sounds like the EGR valve and or system to me. Have a dealer scan for codes and replace the necessary faulty components.

Caralon writes

I was wondering if you could help me find chrome center caps for chrome 17in 10 spoke 2000 sebring or any assistance you may have for me

LXiSEbring: The guys at keep track of these sorts of things!

Clay writes

Hello ,i have a sebring 2003 can the engines be changed to bigger engines

LXiSebring: Not easily as it messes up both the emissions and the computer module that links the engine to transmission etc, apart from the mechanical problems in the fit. Pricilla writes

I bought me '95 Sebring new and I have a problem that started 5 or 6 years ago. There is a "road noise" problem in my right rear wheel that eventually makes every tire put there go bad. Then I get the "wa..wa..wa" sound at slow speed with a slight shift in the steering and the at high speeds a good, low irritating "wawawawa." I know that noise is from the tire ending up with unusual wear like bumps and being dug out. But there has to be something wrong with that wheel to keep ruining only that tire and not the other side too so it cant be a situation of not rotating often enough. Even with new tires (several times) the original noise is still in the tight rear and not the left. Is it a hub, rotor, strut...? Help! I'm tired of it!

ERIC responds

I would bet that your wheel bearing assembly is bad. Jack up the car and tug on that wheel with your hands, try and shake the whole wheel. It will probably have "play" in it indicating that the bearing is worn out. This is common, I've had 2 replaced and my front left one is bad as we speak. This job is $300 and dealer only. Make sure you tell them when your car was built, sticker inside the drivers door, so they get the right parts.

Robert responds

I've had a similar problem in the past as well, both in the front and rear. What i would recommend doing is first removing the offending wheel (after jacking up and properly securing the vehicle, of course) and grasping the rotor on each side and trying to move it. Any play in any direction means that you need to replace the bearing. The only way to replace the bearing is to replace the entire hub. It is only sold as an assembly. When I replaced mine they ran about $130 per hub. To replace the hub, you must remove the brake caliper first, then secure it out of the way. DO NOT remove the brake line or allow the caliper to hang by the line. I believe there are 4 or 5 bolts that hold on the caliper and associated hardware. Then remove the rotor. The rotor should just pull off, but you may have to bang it a few times with a rubber mallet to loosen it. Then, there are 4 bolts on the back side that must be removed to extract the hub assembly. After they are out, easiest way to remove the hub assembly is to just bang on the back of it with a hammer until it pops out. Assembly is the reverse of removal, make sure you tighten all bolts properly. Hope this helps. Any more questions just send me a message. Good luck!

I've replaced one on the front and one on the back. I also repalced the CV shaft on the front. All you need is a Chilton's Manual, a few assorted sockets, a jack, the correct parts (Napa and Autozone both carry the hub assemblies), some patience, and about 6 hours of time. Don't goto the dealer for this, you can do it yourself and have the satisfaction of keeping about $150 of your hard-earned cash. E-mail me if you have any questions, I'm glad to help!

Blake wonders how to replace the transmission fluid and filter Robert writes

I'm not sure of the year of your car, I have a 95, but everything up to about 97 is the same on the V6. The transmission filter and the fluid can be changed yourself in your driveway for about $30 (try getting a price like that at your dealership) and only takes about an hour. It should be changed every 10k miles to ensure long transmission life. The transmission filter can be had at Autozone for $10, and for fluid you will need 4 quarts of ATF+3. This can also be had at Autozone for about $20. All you need to do is jack the car up in the center under the engine, high enough for you to comfortably slide under. The transmission oil pan is on the driver's side, it a black pan about a foot square, and is held on by 14 bolts with a 12mm size head. Have your drainpan ready, and slide under and begin by removing 7 of the bolts on the rear side. Move the drainpan under the oil pan, and loosen the 7 bolts on the front side. You may have to tap the pan with a rubber hammer or block of wood, it should pop loose, and the back will hang down and drain a large part of the oil. After the oil stops pouring out, remove the remaining bolts. Take the pan, and set aside. If you look where the pan was, you will see the filter. It's about 6"x6" and silver. Pull it off and discard. Allow the transmission to drain for about 30 minutes. While you're waiting, clean off all the old fluid and gasket material from the pan, remove the magnet on the bottom of the pan and wipe it clean and make sure everything is spotless. Now, position your new gasket (should have come with the new filter) on the pan. It will only fit one way. Now, place the o-ring that came with the filter onto the tube on the filter's back side. Push the filter into place on the transmission. It will only fit one way. Now hold the pan in place and replace the bolts in the same order they were removed, being careful that the gasket doesn't move out of place. After all are in, tighten them in an alternating pattern until they are all tight. Now, use a funnel to pour all 4qts of fluid into the transmission through the dipstick tube. After that, run the car at idle until it reaches operating temperature. Now, set the e-brake, push the brakes all the way down, and slowly move the shifter through every gear 3 times, stopping in park. With it still running, remove the tranny dipstick and check the level. It should be between the bottom and middle holes on the dipstick. If not, add fluid until it reaches that point. Before you drive the car, and after about 100 miles, check the pan for leaks. If all is good, you should be set for the next 10,000 miles, and you will notice an immediate improvement in your shifting.

Now, I have three suggestions for anyone with this model car. 1. Purchase a Chilton's Total Car Care manual. This book tells you literaly how to completely disassemble and reassemble the car. It is invaluable and can be had for about $25. The book number is 20320 and covers all Sebring models 95-98. is a good place to look for one.

2. Purchase a transmission cooler. It's like an extra radiator for you transmission and will greatly increase your transmissions life, as well as extend the fluid capacity for better cooling and lubrication efficiency. The one i have is a Hayden model, and can be purchased at almost any parts store for $35.

3. Join ASOG. This is the Avenger/Sebring Owners Group. If you have a problem, this is the place with the answer! If it can be fixed, replaced, modified, improved, or imagined, these guys WILL have the solution!

I really hope this helps you. Any questions, just ask!

Attilio writes

Hello, I was wondering if you could help me with a problem,

My Driver side front suspension is making an awful noise, mostly when I turn the wheel. I think it might be the control arm, have you encountered the same problem?

Robert responds...The only time i've heard a noise like that was when my front wheel bearing was starting to go bad, which is a common problem with these vehicles. Mine sounded like a horrific, shreeking, metal-on-metal sound when i would turn the wheel to the left (it was my right bearing going out). You should probably remove the wheels from the front and check if there is any back and forth play from the brake rotor. If there's no play, then you should inspect the suspension components for damage, wear, or looseness. It could also be that your struts are shot and need to be replaced. Check it out, and get back to me if you need help or instruction. Thanks!

Eric says...There was a recall, you may want to look into it. Check the NHTSA website.

cc writes

hey man i just got me a sebring 1999 lxi coupe and its fast 2.5 liter and v6 but i need to know what can i add to my car for performance what would it fit in to a body kit ? any performance parts ? email me back at ducali 1200 cc

LXiSebring: check this one out withthe guys at who keep track of these things.

Chris writes

My name is Chris Mazzarella and you can take a look at my chrysler Sebring at tell me what you think.

Pricilla writes

Finally somebody who can help me !!! your not going to believe me but my chrysler has been sitting arround for about a 1 year due to the fact that im a single parent and because when I start my car it wont stay on so there for I cant drive it anywhere to get fixed , I have to admit that I have had some guys look at my car but didnt know what was really wrong I have some say there is an electrical wire short due to the fact that the 30 amp fuse keeps burning out after about 5 to 10 mins. of being driven, do you know how many fuses i have bought at least 30 . please help me the car has a new battery, if you have a wiring diagram I think it would help a great deal better yet if YOU could come over to my place and take a look would be a dream come true !!! I've been driving a 1992 Camaro z28 and its got to be the roughest car I know . thank you so very much!!!

LXiSebring: I havent a clue--Let's see what eric has to say about this. Electrical gremlins can be tough to track down. Your first clue: which exact 30 amp fuse keeps blowing? That will tell you which circuit likely is shorting out.

Eric Says:Is it the 30 amp fuse under the hood marked engine/motor? That's the one that controls the ECM. It could be the battery is too high and hitting the hood but that should be obvious. The ECM could be shot too. I would open the hood and start the car. Also you can remove all the fuses and replace them one by one to try and find the culprit. I will try and dig up a wiring schematic.

Pricilla responds thank you once again for your responce. I am the one having the problem with the 97 lxi sebring its the one that keeps shortening out the 30 amp fuse that is the one belonging to the engine well i check to see if the battery was touching the hood its not now but at one time it was cause there is burn mark on the inside of the hood. but it's not anymore and the car wont stay on it will crank up but as soon as let go of the gas pedal it dies. do you think it could be the EMC I think that is what its called. how would i know if that is what it is??? thank you very much

Eric says You could try one from a junk yard, I'd take it and get it diagnosed on a Chrysler scan tool.

David writes

I have recently purchased a chrysler sebring year 1996, from a gentleman that infromed me that there was some engine problems with the vehicle. I am a mechanic myself so I figured I could fix the car myself. However I am stumped and was hoping you may be able to answer a few questions for me. The car tends to stall, and buck. And does not want to shift gears right. And it tends to overheat. I know already that the water pump needs replaced and I had a diagnostics test run on the car. It came back that there was a problem in the wiring. I had pulled codes up with the key, and it came up with the IAC Valve, crank position sensor, and cam shaft position sensor. They came back with crank position sensor/cam position sensor, they told me it was insdie the wiring to the PCM. If you have any information that would be helpful to me in anyway it would be greatly appreciated. You can also contact me by phone @(724)349-2996 or at my home address which is 280 oaktree trailor court creekside pa, 15732, As well as my email. Ask for Dave in the event that you should call, and you can also leave a message with my fiance Mandie. Thankyou for your time and I hope to hear from you soon with any help you can assist me with.

Eric responds You need a service manual. You may want to replace each sensor in question, and possibly the PCM. I'm sure you disconnected the battery to clear the codes and are starting frome square one?

The Service manual supplies good info on testing the sensors. Try Ebay. or

Na writes

I just read through the website and have to say that it is really great to have you back. I have many problems with my recently bought 96 Sebring Lxi.

I have had the car checked and the mechanic has changed the EGR valve (check engine light), replaced all injector seals (gas smell and must be leak), replaced the water pump (over heat). It comes out most of the problems are gone except the check engine light still on, but this time it on and go and then on again (like blinking), and the car seem to lost its power everytime that the light is gone (the RPM gose down). Moreover, I need to step harder on the pedal to make the car go from idle. Is that still the problem from EGR?

Another problem is the rubbing noise when I turn the wheel. It happen every time when I turn it and it's very loud and annoying. I have no idea where it come from.

The last problem is a major rust on the moonroof. I thinking of replacing it and found one for 04-05 sebring on ebay. I just would like to know that if that will fits my 96? and how much it would costs me if I buy it from dealer? Thank you so much, you did a great job.

Eric responds:Blinking MIL lamp is a bad bad thing. Anyone with a Chrysler scan tool can do a diagnostic for you and get you pointed in the right dorection at least. Rubbing noise? is the tire hitting? that's easy to check. You could have a bad wheel bearing too, that's very common. Forget the sunroof swap idea. I would have a good body shop repair that rust problem if you think it's worth the money.

Toni writes

I have a 1996 Sebring LXI. there are NO interior lights in it. none on the roof, the doors, or the floor. No lights and it drives me nuts. Are all the 1996's like this or just mine. I can't believe they would make a car with no interior lights.

Eric responds:Are you kidding me? The 96 w/o sunroof has a dome light, 2 map lights, a rear seat lamp in the arm console, and both front floor areas are lit with yellow mood lamps. You need to get an owners manual and put these back in.

Robert Morgan writes

I want to join. I've been a member of ASOG for about 2 years now, and i've done just about everything on the 2.5 engine. Just recently I replaced the timing belt, water pump, acc belt, painted LOTS, plugs, plug wires, removed egr system, and added some nice new parts. Specs:

1995 Chrysler Sebring
2.5 V6 a604 A/T with Hayden Tranny Cooler
Bright White/ Gray clad
Custom Painted Engine
JDM strut tower bar
RamTek Racing custom banner
Cold Air Intake
I am interested in becoming a technical advisor or answering members questions if i can. Every little bit helps, right?

I have good pics of the car here:

Thank you, and i look forward to joining your community!

LXiSebring: Thank you. I will send you some questions as they come in if you want to try answering them

Blajke writes

Hi, I recently had my transmission fluid changed at 50k mi. I went to a Chrysler dealership and they flushed the trans. fluid. I inquired about the trans. filter. They said that because the filter is hard to get to, it was not changed. Doesn't it need to be changed as well? Thanks, Blake

LXiSebring: Not sure--you might want to check with another dealer.

Melinda writes

hello i was wondering if you can tell me how to take off and install a transmission shift solenoid. If you can help me please email me back. thank you melinda

LXiSebring: I haven't a clue on that one

Darrell W. Branch writes My name is Darrell Branch and I've purchased an '97 Lxi last year and I love it! I did recently have to have the tranny rebuilt, and I am currently having a problem getting my drivers side rear wheel berring assembly repaired. I want to try to bring my 97 Sebring back to its original luster as it does need very minute body work up front due to a minor fender-bender the previous owner had. I also wanted to know what is the largest size of rims that could be placed on this car without suspension modifications. Please help me get into 'Da Club'!

LXiSebring: Its the outside diameter of the rim/tire combination that matters. You should not exceed the stock outside diamerter. A good wheel/tire store should be able to tell you exactly the combinations that will work.n For example, an 18 inch rim might work but only with some 40 series tires.

Chuck writes Just FYI.. my 1997 Chrysler Sebring LX was just traded in for a 2002 Sebring LXI. The 1997 passed 200,747 when traded and I think still had another 50,000 left in it. Fun car - just wants to keep driving. Chuck

LXiSebring: Great: That's the higfhest-milage Sebring I've heard of.. Are there others out there with even more miles?

Cathy writes

I have some comments regarding my 1996 Chrysler Sebring. I have had many problems with this car. Two rear wheel bearings had to be replaced in the past three years, replacement of the radiator, major work to the AC. The thing I think you will find most interesting is in Dec 2004 I had a major mechanical break down which could of turned out a lot worse than it did. I was traveling about 45 mph on a highway and lost all control of the car skidding 150 feet across the road, missing a telephone pole by 50 ft and coming to rest on the berm of the road. The ball joint broke loose causing the axle to fall out from underneath the car. I called Chrysler asking about a recall and was informed there never was one. Upon further investigation using the internet I found there was a recall in 2001 and the car was inspected at that time. After the repair two days later oil was running out of the engine. The cam, rear seal and head gasket was leaking. I contacted Chrysler and they sent an inspector out. Chrysler paid for most of the repairs to the car. Needless to say now I am very nervous about the car when driving it. I feel in light of what happened to me Chrysler should recall these cars again and replace the ball joint for free. I was really lucky another car or semi was not coming the other way and didn't get physically hurt. I wouldn't want this to happen to anyone else. Thank you.

LXiSebring: If you are nervous about driving a car hte best thing to do probably is to trade it as soon as you can.

shane writes

I just got done looking at your site and have a question. I have a 96 lxi sebring, and I have done little things to it (flow masters, cold air intake) but lately it has been over heating. first the thermestat whent out, then it was the cap. now its just lossing water and i dont know where. I think it could be comming from the water pump.It is a great car but it has been a pain in the ass for me. the motor is a mitsubishi v6 24 valve 2.5L. The cap pressure is 0.9. This car can kick some ass. so far i have hit 130 in it but ran out of road. as well do you know if there has been any sighns of the trani going out in these if you know about any recalls or any thing else that would help me out...i would greatly be thankfull of it.

LXiSebring: This COULD be a bad head gasket given that you arent seeing any water on the floor.

Yes it could be the head gasket but thier is no smoke comming out of my pipes and i am losing water fast when i drive so i dont think it is the water pump. Thanks

Shane p.s. as well i have a v-6 24/V i think i have the wrong cap on it it has a mitubishie motor in it with a little cap that has o.9 on it. i whent to get it replaced and they gave me the wrong size. would u know what size it is (lbs) and maybee a pic of your motor so i can compare.

LXiSebring: If you are losing a lot of water and its not on the floor its gotta be going through the engine somehow-- unless its going out the radiator as steam. This makes no real sense unless the head gasket is leaking. Get the proper cap at the dealer parts dept at a nominal cost.

Andy Burden writes

I found your web site and tried to e-mail a question to Eric. The e-mail was returned. Is he still around?

LXiSebring: About six months ago Eric took down his e-mail address and simply disappeared. He never left even me an alternative email contact. I concluded he didn't want to try to answer questions any more. I know he was involved with a dispute with Chrysler over a Stratus he owned, but that's all I know in terms of explanation. Eric made many great contributions here and knows way more about the technical details of Sebrings than I do. I am sill hoping he will decide to reappear at some point.

Darin Sebastian writes

T Hi there, I have a 1998 Sebring LXi, Black with Gray interior, Leather Seats, Power everything, moon roof, Infinity cd/cassette with Amplifier in the back. and it was a one owner car, with me being the second owner, and the previous owner had a remote starter put in it.. my car only has 53,000 miles on it, and runs like a dream, the more I drive it the more I like it... you have a great site with some great information, however I have a couple of question while reading your forum, that I didn't see answer, the first one being is

How far does the gas gauge have to drop before the low fuel light comes on?, I've had mine almost sitting on the E mark, before I became worried about running out somewhere,. not close to a gas station and it doesn't come on...... I'm wondering does it go pretty low before it comes on, or possibly a bulb burnout...

LXiSebring: I'm guessing about 2 gallons in the gas tank, so maybe 50 miles on the highway.

Second, I also have one of those rear view mirrors, that has the compass/lights built into the mirror with the auto dimming feature, well sometimes the compass comes on and sometimes it doesn't;and when it does come on it doesn't stay on long... is there an easy fix to this or would I have to replace the mirror itself..

LXiSebring: Sounds like a loose or corroded connection, but how to fix I dunno. If you can get the connectors loose I'm thinking electrical contact cleaner froM Radio shack--but that is just a thought. I've not dug into one of these.

And Lastly, I also have about 3 small white scuff marks on the drivers side and on the bottom front bumper where the license plate is the ones on the drivers side look like a shopping car has rubbed up against it, and the one on the bumper looks like a parking spot concrete stop has got it... what would be the best way to get them off and get the original finish back... they don't look like nothing more but surface scuffs, not scratches...

LXiSebring: The material of choice is an automotive POLISHING compound,or even more delecate, the similar fine silver polishes. Rubbing compound works but has a coarser grit and tends to dull the clear coat and eventually remove it entirely, Put the polishing compound on a soft rag and rub. One of those round plastic curley cate dish washing things also works to remove stuff--dont use the metal kind as they will scratch the paint. Follow this all with paste wax. If this doesnt do it, you might try a little 0000 steel wool, but this will also dull the clear coat. A slightly dull finish may be preferable to the paint scrape, however. Don't go in for the heavier duty stuff until you are absolutely certain the polishing compound doesn't resolve the problem

Dick Smith writes

I also have a 98 Chrysler Sebring LXI, that would stall after first starting it. Sometimes I could get it started by pumping the gas and other times it would not start. It turned out that the Idler Air Control Motor wires came unhooked. Once the wires were hooked back up properly, so far it has been fine. Another problem we had, the car was pulling to the right when applying the brakes. After having new brakes and rotors put on there was still a problem. There was about 800 lbs. more pressure being applied to the pasengers side brakes Finally, after driving the car about a week the real problem showed up. The lower ball joint ended up putting pressure against the wheel. Once the lower ball joint was replaced, everything seems to be fine.

I would like to be added to your site. Hope this info helps some one out.

Elizabeth D. Corbett writes Hi, I just saw your site on-line. My car is giving me a little trouble. I had it looked at because it has been missing alot. I got it back and now it really runs bad. Also the "check engine light comes on". It seems like it is starting to use oil. I change my oil every 3,000 miles regularly. Do you think you could have a solution for me? Thanks, Elizabeth

LXiSebring:My guess from this vantage point is a fuel system emmisions control sensor problem, but its only a gyuess. When the check engine like comes on it stores a code in the computer which the dealer then reads out to diagnose the exact problem. The vast majority of these are emmissions and fuel system related. Without that code its tough to tell.

Whoever tried to fix the problem the first time didnt get it right. Was this a dealer? One thing dealers usually do better than aftermarket repair people is fuel system emissions control diagnosis. Since the check enginre light came on again this shouldnt be difficult to track down.

I will post some pictures as soon as I get my digital camera in... Thanks again for a great Website Darin Ian Evans writes

Hi, just was browsing your site. I just bought a Sebring 2002. I'm looking for information on the 2.7 efi V six.

I'm taking an intense interest in this car after driving one I was referred to by a Chrycho salesman. The one I test drove had a 110 thousand klicks but it still kicked ass. And then I had an opportunity to take out a completely rebuilt one the insurance company had written off. It was just as much a thrill. And this one only had 53,000 Klicks on it.

What I was wondering was how long the warranty is on both the transmission and engine?

LXiSebring: 60,000 miles I think.

Gregory T Crawford writes

Hi! Know anything about replacing/repairing the front bumper cover for a 2005? Is it just a matter of unscrewing some bolts? Thanks for any info!

LXiSebring: I dunno but someone reading this might.

jkramer writes

Hope you can help. I have a 2001 LXi Sebring coup w/ auto trans and about 26,000 miles. This problem started happening about 2 weeks ago. When I am driving above 40 or 50 mph and turn the wheel slightly to the left, like turning into a curve on the highway there is a continous noise coming from the right front end. Like a humming that goes hmmm, hmmm, hmmm, but does not goes as fast as the tires are turning. It gets louder and more apparent the faster I go. The alignment of my car is slightly off and drifts to the right if that would have any effect. Have you ever heard of anything like this before.

LXiSebring: THis could be a front wheel bearing/constant velocity joint problem. Have this checked' by a dealer pronto as it could be dangerous

Dave writes

I just purchased a 1999 Chrysler Sebring for my son which has a heated rear view mirror with compass. The rear view mirror has an 8 pin connector on the harness side which has 6 wires going to it. The wires were pulled out of the connector and I can figure out the wire order, I believe pin 1 and 8 are empty. Can you give me the color codes of the wires and their pin out location? Thanks,

LXiSebring: I don't know but someone reading this might.

Clinton writes

Hi, I've had my 96 Sebring for almost two years. Several months after I bought it, the alarm started going off every time I parked it. I pulled the horn fuse so at least it doesn't sit there and honk for two minutes, but the lights still flash. I thought it was just going off once per setting, but lately I've seen it go off up to four times in an hour. Any Suggestions? Thankyou Clinton Berreth

LXiSebring: on 95 and 96 models the hood doesnt hold the alarm switch along the left edge of the engine compartment (passenger side). THe permanent cure is a little wad of electrical tape in the indentation just above the switch. Its exacerbated by drive the car in hot weather. THe hood flexes a bit and sets off the alarm.

mariusz writes

HELLO I'm from Poland (Europe) i'm looking MAP SENSOR OE#4671276 to my CHRYSLER SEBRING COUPE LX; year-1996; engine V6 2.5L; VIN:N . Please help me which on-line shop in U.S. sells this parts and sending them from U.S. to Ploand (Europe) because I find shops who sells only in U.S. . I need internet's adress. Who manufactured is good KEM or STANDARD or ells. Sorry for my english. THANKS. My e-mail:

LXiSebring: If this is a regular Chrysler part you might try contacting a parts source through

Bobby writes

I am very frustrated due to spending more than $700 to get my car to stop cutting off and I still have the problem. First a tune-up to no avail. Then and IAC replacement. This was done after misfire codes during diagnostics indicated the IAC needed to be replaced. It was changed, the diagnostics said all was well but it still cuts off. At every stop I make after driving at normal speeds the rpms start to drop and I have to catch it and slip it to neutral to deep the motor from stalling. One shop said I could replace all the parts one at a time but could not be sure whether the egr or fuel filter or whatever, would ultimately be the solution. I simply can't afford to experiment in this manner. This has to be something that has shown up on other Sebrings? I got the car at 115,000 and the problem started at 116,000. Any ideas or similar complaints? I would sure appreciate being pointed in the right direction.

LXiSebring: you need to get a different service department, one who doesnt chasrge you for running mechanuic diagnosis, to look at this.

Shannon Pigron writes

I have a question....I recently bought a 2000 Sebring LXI, on my sun visor I have 3 buttons.I have no idea what they are for, do you have a clue?I thought they might be to open my sunroof , however I have a switch above my rear view mirror that takes care of that.Totally stumped, this car was purchased from a auction and had no manual that came with it , any information would be helpful. Thanks

LXiSebring Those are for a garage door opener. Its a standard code built into the car so you dont need to carry aound a remote opener. IF you dont have a remotely controlled garage door they are just there.

Ted writes

I just purchased a used 1997 Sebring with 63K miles and in immaculate shape. It ran great and I was very proud of the car until a month after ownership. Being a used car I opted against warranty of any kind, being that I had a full coverage on the car, I felt it wasn't needed. I started having problems with the ignition of the car. It would have start up noise but would never seem to have enough to turn over. After getting it towed to my mechanic he explained it was problems with the coil(s). He said this is a reoccurring problem with Sebrings and I just wanted to let you know in case you kept any kind of record of this for your site. Two weeks after having the car back the lower panel of the drivers side door flew off while driving from Denver to Pueblo Colorado. Needless to say, after turning around and picking the panel off the road I needed to order a new one.. this thing was thrashed. Am I the only one you've heard of having these issues or have others had the same? I can understand an engine problem.. even at 63K, it happens. But in no circumstance should a panel of the car just fly off while driving.

Thanks for the site, lots of valuable information.

J. Ted Bateman, CSP

LXiSebring: Both of these are common problems. On the early models those little plastic clips break and the only solution is to replace the entire panel as the clips are molded right into hte panel. 1997 seems to be a particularly bad year for this to happen.

Often the starting problem is battery related, but sometimes you have to dig deeper and i have heard of various fixes.

Dylan Freund writes

I have several engine questions involving my 96 sebring. It is the 2 door coupe model. First is my check engine light comes on every now and then. What should I do? Next, my anti-lock light is always on. What should I do. Also my fuse that controls the engine I believe it is called the engine regulator fuse often blows when I accelerate hard. Next and last, i was driving today and my power steering shut down and my battery light came on. I heard a loud pitched noise then thud thud thud and that si when it happened. I think i blew my power steering belt but I want to know where the belt is located so I can check/and fix it. Thanks for your help.

THe check engine light is probably related to the failure of an emissions sensor. If it goes off again I wouldn't worry, if it stays on, you need to get a dealer diagnosis. There are generally not diy. THe anti-brake light could be a serious problem with hte ABS that would cost $1000 to fix, as you could need a completely new ABS unit. Or it could just be a bad connection or similar, cheap to fix. On this old a car, some owners simply opt to go w/o ABS and just have the dealer just disconnect the unit. How useful ABS is seems open to question. I've seen statisticks that show drivers with ABS tend to stop quicker and run into fewer people but tend to be involved in more collisions in which the ABS car is rear-ended!

Adrian Nebesny writes

I wonder if you can help me. After driving my 2003 Sebring LX 2.7L, and parking, and taking my key out of the ignition, and trying to exit the car, ..the horn sounds and won't stop until I re-start the car briefly and shut it off that point, I can leave the car and lock it without the horn sounding.. Have you come across this yet?

If so, what can I do to cure the problem?



LXiSebring: NOt quite, but I suspect its a problem with either the underhood alarm security switch, the trunk switch or a door panel security switch. This is one for the dealer. I'm no big fan of these alarm systems.

Felicia Taylor writes

Hi, I recently purchased a 2001 Chrysler Sebring LX. I dont know if this car is already equipped with an alarm system, but if it is, could you tell me what I have to do get it to work? I think the owner before me turned it off. The remote keyless entry works fine. Also, I live in Wisconsin, where the weather can get to 15 below (-15 degrees). When I start the car up on these such days, it does not have trouble starting, but it does this high pitched siren thing for about 5-10 seconds, is this something I should worry about? I was reading the different emails under your site, but there was too many to try to find the answer to my question, so I am sorry if these are repeated questions you get often. Please get back to me asap, and let me know, thanks alot, Felicia

THe alarm systems really require a dealer diagnosis. I'm wan't even aware there was a switch that could turn it off and on.

Kat writes

Good Day: I, too, have a 97 Sebring, silver w/ the same rims. It has had some major repairs, as expected for its age. I would like to locate an after factory parts dealer in Ontario or Canada. I would like new head light covers. The front grill/pumper is damaged because it sits to close to curbs and the like. Nothing to do w/the driver. Any suggestions for this pretty car?

LXiSebring: you might want to try the guys at for aftermarket parts sources

Mike Buschur writes

Hi, I have a 1995 Sebring CXi V-6 that I need to sell. It has about 65,000 miles on it and is in very good shape. It has new brakes, timing belt, O2 sensors and has been well cared for. I'm asking $4500 for it and live in Anchorage Alaska. Thanks.

George Leblanc writes Hi There, This site has been very helpfull. My name is George Leblanc and I have a 1995 Sebring Lxi. I am having aproblem with the alam system. The only way to disarm it is to open the passenger side door. Is there any way to disarm it totally? Any Suggestions?

Shouldn't be tough to track down or fix. It sounds to me like the alarm switch on the passenger side door has problems.

Joel Sluyter writes

I have owned my Sebring LX for about 4 years now. At first I was a little leary about a chrysler of any kind, but the guy insisted I get in and take it for a test drive. I was pleasantly surprised to see it was a 5 spd. Needless to say that after the test drive I drove it home. I bought the car with 70K miles, and have since put another 150K on it, with only standard tune ups. This may sound like a feat to some, but this 150K includes street racing in Jacksonville, FL and my drive across the country from King's Bay Naval Submarine Base in GA to Naval Station Kitsap in Silverdale, WA (wich only took me 27 hours) These cars are great, and I swear by them now. After all of the abuse I finaly got a rod knocking. It's a great excuse to rebuild her and see how much more she's willing to give.

Rene Eash writes

I have a 1996 Sebring LXi, it looks just like yours and it wont start. Is there anything that we should do besides what we have done. put a new crank sensor in it check the fuel in take. There are no codes, but the engie light did come on and was on for awhile before it did this. This happened one onther time but we got it to start. It truns over and the lights work and all that.

LXiSebring: you need a dealer diagnosis on this one!

Keith writes

I have a 2001 Sebring and I have looked over your web site for an answer to my problem. When I turn the key to start the car all that happens is the lights flash once the horn beeps once and the car will not start. I have read about the battery issues with the car and am wondering if these symptoms are conducive with a poor battery. I bought the car used two months ago and I am unaware of the condition/age of the battery. The car has lights and heater as well as wiper action, however when the key is turned to the acc. position I don't get any radio. The car has 42,000km on it.

LXiSebring: This is a problem with the chip on the key or with the security alarm system

Harry writes

Hello, My name is Harry. - I have a 1998 Sebring LXI with 84K miles. The "Service Engine" light has been on steady for about (8) months (@ 72K miles). A chrysler dealer said the codes indicate the car is running lean, though the performance is fine. (However I think I am burning more gas). Anyway, the dealer induction cleaned the fuel injectors for approx. $225. The light then went on/off for about 2 weeks and then again stayed on. The dealer said the next step is to replace all (6) injectors to the tune of $1700 (Mitshubishi parts). HELLO- I don't think so - the performance is fine. Also during this period I have had, all by local mechanics, (2) oxygen sensors, air filter & the fuel filter (not in gas tank) replaced. The intake has also been vacuum tested. Today, I spent $350 for annual PA inspection with two- thirds of the amount spent to get an emission waiver (New PA law-car won't pass with service engine light on. Must spend $150 minimum towards problem, hence (1) of the above mentioned oxygen sensors). - Should I have the injectors cleaned again (I'm not replacing them), tune-up? Help & Thanks.

LXiSebring: I'd try a service department at a different dealer. You need a second opinion.

Lei Anne writes

I love my Sebring, and have put many a mile on it, but now I have a problem that maybe someone out there can help me with. My car alarm is going off, and I can't find any info on what to do! I've changed the batteries in the remote, pulled the fuses, and still the alarm goes off! Help!

LXiSebring: USUALLY this is a problem with the hood not holding down the underhood security alarm switch (passenger side, midway along the edge of hood. The permanent cure is a piece of sticky back foam or even a wad of electrical tape placved directly over the indentation in the hood that inadequately holds the switch down.

Bryent writes

Hey, I have been to this site many times in hope to find answers to my problems with the car. It has helped me a quite a bit. Now I have another problem that I can't seem to figure out. I have a 1997 Sebring LXi (2.5L) with 128,000 miles on it. About 3 months ago, I gave the car a super tuneup with the Chrysler dealer, where they did a tune up and replaced several other parts that were not "working." Anyway, recently, the car has been hesitating/stumbling while I accelerate. And just lately, the car stalled on me on the highway after a barrage of these stumbling jerks. After the car stalled, the Check Engine light turned on. I took it to the dealer to have it checked, and the light turned off. They couldn't find anything wrong with the car and blamed it on the gas.

I went through several different types of gas, tried many additives and cleaners, I even tried dry gas/water removers to defeat the condensation excuse. And the stumbling still occurs. And this stumbling occurs with moderate acceleration at ANY speed, meaning it happens at 30mph, 55mph, 60mph, 80mph and so on. I am starting to think that it was my spark plugs or wires that may be causing this, but before I throw down the cash to have it replaced, I did some research. Now I'm totally confused because it could be the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, vacuum hoses, EGR valves, idle speed motor, onboard computer, clogged fuel filter or fuel line, and oxygen sensors.

Rather than to throw all of this at the dealer, who apparently doesn't care what I say because I know nothing and only goes by the computer readings than actually doing real mechanic work, I want to have a place to start that shelling out a million dollars to troubleshoot every part on this car. I tried to make the car shut off again and give me the Check Engine light, but I can't seem to do it. I was told to only bring it back when the light is on. But if the light turns off, then I doubt they will be replacing the right thing to make my car run correctly.

Any ideas what could be causing my problem? Any experiences that may have happened to others with the same model as mine. Best Regards,

LXiSebring: Start by disconnecting the battery. Leave it disconnected for a few minutes and that will reset the computer. I hate to say this, but the service dept likely messed something up while doing the major tuneup. What I dunno. zObviously they don't know either. I think you need to try another dealer if the computer resetting trick doesnt accomplish anything. To me this sounds like an emmisions-related sensor problem but that's just a wild guess.

Gerald Barnett writes

I have a 1998 Chrysler Sebring and I need to find out how to replace a headlight lens, can you help me?

LXiSEbring: I'm not sure but someone who reads this will likely know and contact you. Eric??