The Chrysler Sebring Coupe Owners' Page--2003 Listings

The 2003 Sebring Coupe

Note the revised grille with chrome bars. There are changes in the rear fascia too. New are side air bags. Below is the 2001-02 model for comparison.

This Web site is devoted to providing information about Chrysler Sebring COUPE (NOT Convertible or Sedan owners). Information and photos of your car should be sent to the site operator at LXiSebring@aol.com I have only a limited amout of mechanical knowledge. Further, I know very little about aftermarket parts. The people who keep track of aftermarket parts are at www.asog.net

Eric, a fellow owner, has graciously agreed to answer a limited number of e-mails relating to mechanical problems you might be having with your COUPE. ERIC HAS ASKED THAT YOU CAREFULLY SEARCH THE SITE AND THE ARCHIVES BEFORE YOU FIRE OFF A LETTER TO HIM RELATING TO A MECHANICAL PROBLEM. We have answered tons of letters related to ticking sounds, bad brakes, transmission noises, blown tweeters, alarms that go off unexpectedly, batteries that go bad annually, remotes and numerous others. If you are about to fire off a letter on any of these please use your edit command and do a search of the site to see if the problem has already been discussed in detail.

Please do not send us e-mail relating to convertibles or sedans. Theyt are different cars built on a different chassis in a different factory, and we know nothing about them. Before you send us e-mail relating to a problem When you send e-mail to Eric or I, please include "Sebring" in the subject line, My e-mail account on aol has been getting tons of Spam mail recently for some reason, and e-mail where the suject line is blank or something generic like "Hey" will likely get deleted by accident without even being read. I've been in search of more Web space for the Sebring owners and photo pages. AOL will give it to me in exchange for a frame with the "AOL Hometown logo and assorted banner ads" I'm of mixed mind on all of this. By becoming part of AOL Hometown we will potentially get more visitors who will find us through the AOL hometown search engine, but I hate the Hometown frame and banner ads for ATT wireless, WebMD weight loss or whatever. To a certain degree AOL is using my web page content to make ad revenue off of our page, which I don't like at all.

Ben's custom Sebring is featured this week

This is the opportunity for owners of Chrysler Sebring Coupes to tell everyone about their cars. To be included in the Chrysler Sebring Owners' Page and be a part of the internet "club," simply e-mail me with information about your car. I've changed the format a bit so that the newest owners now appear at the top of the file.

Welcome

The Sebring Owners' Club welcomes Eric aka Mr Tech who will be serving as our person for answering questions related to technical and mechanical problems with Sebrings.

Eric is a Sebring owner and is volunteering his time to help other owners. However, recently Eric has been getting a lot of questions relating to problems that have already been dealt with in detail on the web site. Please use your Browser's edit command to search for words in letters and answers relating to your problem before you fire off another letter to Eric describing a problem to which he has already provided a thoughtful and detailed answer. In particular, If you have one of the following problems with your Sebring, check the letters and responses related to these already on the site before firing off yet another letter to Eric on the subject which is already discussed in depth here.

1. Loose plastic body cladding (we've driven that one into the ground)
2. Premature brake wear and choosing replacement brakes (ditto)
3. Warped rotors
4. Using synthetic oil or not (don't)
6. Security alarm goes off when it shouldnt (usually its the underhood switch but read on for an at-home fix)
7. Programming a remote controled keyless entry device. here are the instructions for the 95-97 models Click here for a PDF file
8. Wheel balance problems
9. Choosing new tires
10. What to do whern the "check engine" light comes on
11. battery replacement in remote keyless entry devices
12 Spark plug replacement on the V6 engine (Don't try this yourself, at home. It's a real pain. This is a good job for your dealer)
13. Car turns over but won't start (try a new battery before you do anything else)
14. When to replace timing belts (These really should be replaced at 60,000 miles unless you enjoy sitting by the side of the road)
15. Aftermarket parts such as performance parts and indiglo gauges (the guys at ASOG are the people who keep track of that stuff.
16: Scraping and tearing up the front facia of your Sebring coupe because you run into/over something like a concrete parking lot bumper

Eric says he deletes e-mail if the subject line blank or something generic like "help." Also, remember that Eric and I just Sebring owners and are not customer service people, and while you might feel good by writing a letter that vents your anger over a problem with your car or your dealer, we are not going to post letters that identify an individual dealer, nor act as your advocates for you in these disputes. My experience has been that most service departments will try hard to deal with a customer complaint, but they too have limits in terms of what they are able to do. Further, if you do not feel that you are getting adequate service at your dealer, get a second opinion ata second dealership, calmly explaining what the problem is and what the first dealer attempted to do that did not repair the problem. Service people are human too and if you go in angry, chances are you won't get their best work on your behalf.

This page has been accessed times since Dec. 1, 1997.

Sebring Coupe Archives

Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2005


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2004


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2003


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2002


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2001


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2000


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 1999


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 1998


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 1997


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed during 1996


return to The Obscure Facts Page

For those of you who are actually looking for the Sebring CONVERTIBLE, to my knowledge no one currently maintains a similar site for convertible owners. We don't deal with Sebring Convertibles or Sedans here because they are different cars built on different chasses in an entirely different plant. Sebring coupes are built by Mitsubishi employees based loosely on the Galant/Eclipse chassis (these cars are also built there). The Convertibles and Sedans are built on a Chrysler-designed "P" car chassis and assembled by Chrysler employees in Chrysler plants. Even the V6 used in the Coupe is different from the one used in sedans and convertibles. The 200 hp coupe engine in the 2001 is a high output 3.0 Mitsubishi V6. The 200 hp V6 used in the sedans andconvertibles is an all-Chrysler engine first used a couple years ago in the Intrigue/Concorde redesign. The coupe engine is used on the Eclipse and Galant as well.



Also, check out

The Avenger Sebring Owners Group (ASOG) Website

The MOPAR website

MOPAR Chatroom

MOPAR Auction

Note: Please e-mail Eric or me any Coupe problems you have and the solutions, if any.

The Official Chrysler web site

I hadn't stopped by the Official Chrysler Website (www.chrysler.com) for quite awhile. I was amazed to see the many things that were available. What caught my eye was that you can order owner's manuals and factory service manuals directly off of a site button. I checked the price for an owner's manual for my '95, and it was a very reasonable $6. So if you need an owner's manual or serbvice manual for your Sebring that is the place to go!

Also interesting was the fact that you could get a price quote on any Chrysler Corp vehicle. I gather this works somewhat like Vehix.com. and undoubtedly there is a connect to dealers in your area. This may not work out to be the final deal, but these sorts of things certainly help limit the search (and the pain of negotiating with greasy sales managers over a few dollars).

On a side note, a local dealer (Lexington KY) is advertizing new 2002 Sebring LXi coupes that have a sticker of 25K+ for 19,700. I gather this is one with all the regular LXi features, V6, and auto, but without the ABS, leather or the sun roof.

Aftermarket parts

A V6 owner wrote

here is a link to the supercharger kit for the 2.5 liter v-6. it gave me about 80 extra horsepower at the wheels but i had to add a transmission oil cooler. it was a pretty difficult installation. it worth the 4000 dollars. it comes with Blow-Off Valve, FMU fuel control, inline fuel pump, boost and a/f meter, silicone hoses, and SC to throttle body pipes. I used a k&n air filter.

link:http://www.boosthead.com/kitsbymake.html

you will need a custom exhaust. i made a cat back 2.5 in with a high flow cat and dual chrome plated mufflers. the charger is really hard on the transmission.

So there is a supercharger out there but I wouldnt expect Chrysler to do warranty work on a vehicle so modified. and your transmission may quickly end up as a heap of oil and metal filings on your garage floor! There are a limited number of aftermarket parts available. No, I dont know of any ground effects kits or clear taillights. THe guys at www.asog.net keep closer track of this stuff than I do. This is what I know so don't expect to learn any more by writing me.

If you want a custom spoiler painted in your body color they are about $245 at www.sportwing.com

If you want custom gauges the kits in various colors are about $107 at www.speedhut.com, but only for 95-2000 models (yet)

I have not purchased anything from any of these companies so this is not an endorsement of any of these but is just information for you.

Instrument Cluster Repairs

speedo@fuse.net (roger yenke) To: LXiSebring@aol.com For the servicing of the common problems associated with the instrument cluster. If interested please email to Roger Yenke (speedo@fuse.net)

Replacing batteries in remote keyless entry transmitters

I had an interesting experience when the remote Keyless entry no longer worked on my car. I presumed it was time for battery replacement, My unit is from 1995, and I'm not sure if the design changed significantly in later years or not. Anyway here is what I ran into. I first pried the two sides of the keychain transmitter apart. If you have fairly long fingernails you can actually carefully pry the two sides apart. At that point, one of the two batteries will fall out in your hand. The batteries are quarter-sized number CR2016, and the Energizer replacement is readily available in the jewelery counter at KMart (2.99 each) or in the photography counter at Wal Mart (1.99). Figuring out how the batteries go in is a bit of an issue. They actually fit one on top of the other, with the plus (flatter) side of both of the the batteries toward the springs in the cover section. The slightly rounded negative side of the battery fits against the shiny flat circle on the bottom where the transmitter part actually is. I reassembled and it works (it didn't work with the batteries installed upside down). I would be interested in hearing if any of you have had experience installing batteries in later models and whether these instructions are correct for those models as well.


Click here to visit the Chrysler Central Website Stop in and say hello!!!

If you are interested in trade-in values on Sebrings, check out The Kelly Blue Book SiteInteresting to note that the Chrysler website now has a link to the Kelly Blue Book site--how times change in the automobile business!


Performance Tips from Eric

I promised you earlier that I would find hard evidence before I recommended any performance parts.I am sick of the hype and the 'magic products.' Here are some options.

SPARK PLUGS:

For the 4 cylinder NGK recommends the BKR6E-11 set at 0.050".
For the V-6 NGK recommends the PFR5G-11, set at 0.044" - NGK's initial setting,
thus the "-11" or 1.1 mm.
If you like the idea of using Platinum plugs or have questions reguarding them you can Email me (Drawsoncad@aol.com)
The NGK engineer for Chrysler applications is (knakayama@ngksparkplugs.com)

WAX & POLISH:

Want to try the absolutely best car polish system in the World? Zaino Bros. I have used these products for a long time and let me tell you nothing compares. Did I mention the owner Sal is a really nice guy and will answer all your questions?

PERMANENTLY SOLVING BRAKE PROBLEMS:

THESE PART NUMBERS FIT 1995-2000 Sebrings. Eric is in the process of getting the correct numbers for 2001-2002 Sebrings. Stay tuned. Here are Eric's recommended part numbers:

Front Axxis Pads........................23-484-01
Front Power Stop rotor/left side......JBR518SL
Front Power Stop rotor/right side....JBR518SR
Rear Axxis Pads.........................23-383-01
Rear Power Stop rotor/left side.......JBR772SL
Rear Power Stop rotor/right side.....JBR772SR

These are slotted rotors that will solve the warping problem so common on Sebrings/Avengers. Contact Ralph at Olympic tell him I sent you. He will set you up with a set of Powerstop SLOTTED rotors and Axxis metal master pads. I'm sure that they are available elsewhere but their prices and service is second to none. When you have them installed make sure that they replace the brake clips (Hardware) and lubricate ALL the contact points of the pad to the calipers. This will fix your problem.

PCM Codes

Click here for PCM codesI don't think this link works any more. THere is another link at PCM codes

Use this tool to find & help troubleshoot problems. Your cars computer stores codes "Engine Light" this is how to find out what they mean.

LXiSebring's Shine and Show Trick

Having trouble getting those black plastic outside mirrors to get back to a factory sheen? Try a silicone-based product for blackwalls and black plastic trim. I use Westley's "Black Magic" I bought my bottle some years ago. Check your favorite auto supply store. This restores the dulled and faded plastic part to its original factory sheen, tho you may have to reapply it occasionally. Fading of the mirror plastic appears to particularly be a problem on 95-96 models.

Rambling Commentary on DaimlerChrysler and its future products by LXiSebring

The Sebring coupes are quite different cars from the sedans and convertibles. The 4 dr and convertible Sebrings are Chrysler-made and based on the Chrysler engineered "P" chassis--I believe some if not all are built in a Mexican plant which is just over the Texas Border where Chrysler has a big plant. 4-door owners check your build tag on your driver's side B pillar and tell me what it says. If you remember the Plymouth Acclaim, that was an early version of the "P" car chassis. The Sebring coupe is built in Normal Illinois by Mitsubishi workers in the Diamond Star Motors (DSM) plant, and is based on the completely different Mitsubishi Galant chassis. The V6 in the sedan is a version of the Chrysler-designed V6 that first showed up in the Intrepid, but the coupe V6 is a Mitsubishi design. Both coupe and sedan use the same Chrysler-designed 4 cyl, which is a variant of the 4 cyl also used in the Neon and PT-Cruiser.

It is helpful to think of the Eclipse as being built on a shortened Galant chassis rather than the Sebring coupe as a stretched Eclipse.

Chrysler, after almost completely severing ties with Mitsubishi just before the Damlier merger (The Sebring Coupe was the only really shared product by about '98 and Chrysler had non Mitsubishi-based V6s in their then-new sedans) now is very cozy with them again. Daimler Chrysler doesn't truly own Mitsubishi, but as I understand it, they have about 1/3 of the shares. Thats enough so Mitsubishi doesn't do anything now without checking first with DC headquarters in Germany. The DC/Mitsubishi partnership is similar to what GM has going on with Subaru and now GM used a bunch of Subaru parts in the new Pontiac Solstace--Bob Lutz's pet project at GM.

In the future I expect to see a new DC chassis common to both the P cars and the Galant derivatives and perhaps even eventually derivatives of the Mercedes C class--since all three are so similar in size and layout. Also, dont tell Mercedes owners, but there are cheaper Mercedes coming out that will share lots of parts and engineering with Chrysler & Mitsubishi, and Mercedes parts will be showing up on Chrysler and MItsubishi cars too. Expect luxury Chrysler cars to pull more and more engineering from Mercedes just as the new Lincoln model shares underpinnings with the S-Type Jaguar. Meanwhile, everyone knows that the new Jaguar X-Type is built on as Ford chassis widely used in Europe, but appearing in the US as the now-defunct Ford Contour/Mercury Mystique. This isn't all glued together yet, but thats what will happen. If Mercedes engineers a good new front suspension, why reinvent it and have to pay for additional engineering work at Chrysler or Mitsubishi, espcially if all the cars it could be used in have similar size and weight.

Plus, Mercedes is really looking to expand into the under $30,000 market world-wide, which means the "Not engineered in Germany" opposition will end up being muted and Germans will be happily buying cars that are mostly Chryslers & Mitsubishis but with the three-pointed star on the grille. The new Mercedes little hatchback just came out (Compressor) with (gasp!) cloth upholstery and in the mid 20s! I think the short wheelbase and hatchback design wont do very well in the US, however--the design is just too European for us. Hatchback cars have never been popular in the US regardless of who makes them. But a new Mercedes Coupe built with the overall size and other design parameters of a Sebring coupe and under $30,000. That is quite buildable out of the existing Mercedes/Chrysler/Mitsu parts bin and it could happen!

parts locator Link

Check with Mike mike@uneedapart.com Havent ttried this company so have no recommendation on Sebring parts

Xenon Bulb Study

Eric says he is going to do an independent study on these fancy new "HID" look replacement bulbs. It looks to me like they have figured out how to color correct Halogen bulbs by tinting them and using new gas mixes inside. I have contacted some manufactures and they are sending samples.

LXiSebring: According to the newspaper, the new bulbs on expensive cars are "high-theft" items.

Computer resetting

Eric says..The best way to reset is to disconnect the battery and reconnect.

Reprogramming remote keyless entry units

Not sure how much of this applies to the Sebring coupe, but Click here

John Tells me tht he has a Web site called Auto Makes and Models http://www.auto-makesnmodels.com/ and he has a link to our site here. Stop by and say hello.

Sebring Coupe Owners Listed in 2003:

Diane writes

Hi guys, I have a 2001 Sebring Coupe LXi and now that the winter weather is upon us, I'm finding that my windows freeze in place on a regular basis (even in above freezing temperatures). Both the passenger and driver side windows will not roll down. Any idea where I should ask my dealer to look for moisture build-up? It would seem that something in the window motor is getting stuck. In desperate situations I've had to shimmy my window to jar it loose but the thought of doing that on a regular basis is not an option I enjoy. Thanks, Diane

Eric says... You can take off the door panels and lube the tracks with silicone, but if it's that cold out I'd leave the windows up. Anytime a dealer plays inside the doors your asking for trouble.


lk writes

I am the proud owner of a 1998 Chrysler Sebring LXi. It currently has 137,500 miles on it (131,500 I put on it myself!). This car is amazing! I have had the usual problems, broken door handle, replaced battery, the body recall on the side panels, but NEVER any mechanical issues. Although I hate to admit it, other than changing the oil, I didn't have much maintenance done to it. Two months ago I was involved in an accident, a kid pulled out in front of me and I jammed on the brake, and slid into him. The car was still drivable after the accident. His insurance covered the $3000 of body damage my car sustained, but two weeks after getting it back from the body shop (last week), I stopped at a stop light (had already driven 50+ miles that morning) and it started idling really rough...I thought it was going to knock off. I was fortunately only about a mile away from my office, so I got there, pulled into the parking deck and the check engine light came on. I took it to a mechanic (great guy, I feel like he is family at this point) and he checked the code which was P300 (multiple misfires). Well, there is a list of things that that could be, but we started with some basic maintenance issues since I haven't been the greatest at keeping up with it. First, he did a tune up...new wires and plugs. Changed the timing belt (first time at 137,000 miles!), cleaned the fuel injectors, replaced the valve cover gasket (I had oil all over my spark plugs), etc. You would think that all this would at least perk the old girl up, nope, got worse, now you have to push the gas pedal to start it (sometimes). My mechanic thinks that I might have a cracked block (not likely since the car has never overheated, and I am very good about oil changes) or a messed up head gasket. He poured some sealant in the radiator and said that it would seal up any cracks, and if this fixed the problem then we knew there was a leak somewhere. It didn't completely fix the problem, but it did help a bit. Here are the things I notice...

1. In the morning, when it is cold, it fires up first try, do not have to push the gas pedal.
2. Drives better when it is cold.
3. It is fine when I am on the highway, it only gets the serious rough idle when I slow down for a stop light or to make a turn, once the tac falls below 1000 rpms is when it wants to knock off.
4. When it is warmed up and it knocks off at a light, I have to push the gas to start it back.
5. The check engine light has continued to stay on, however, sometimes it flashes and sometimes it stays on.
6. There is a "plate" of some sort...I forget what he calls it, but it goes on the outside of your engine on the passenger side. (this is in the area where my car was damaged in the wreck). It is missing. For this reason, he believes that my accident could play a part in this.
7. Mechanic says the thermostat is bad and that once he replaces it tomorrow, he feels that it will improve a great deal.
8. He has checked the O2 Sensor, the fuel injection, and even replaced the ignition coil, which he says he will take off and put my old one back on and give me my money back if that has nothing to do with it.
9. He says that I have moderate resistance in 2 of my cylinders and high resistance in one...I have no idea what that means. He knows that the high resistance one is not bad, because if he sticks it in another slot, it works fine.
10. My fuel pressure is good.

Any ideas? He said he will check my throttle positioning sensor (at my request) and make sure it is ok. The only thing that gets me is that in an effort to save money, I recently (2-3 months) switched from high octane gas down to low octane gas. I used to alternate between mid- grade and high octane, but I switched completely to the cheap stuff. Everyone I ask says that that should not be a problem, but I can't help but think it might have something to do with it. It seems like there are enough clues here to throw up a big sign as to what the problem is, but so far, we haven't had a whole lot of luck figuring it out. This car has been wonderful to me, and regardless of the cost of repair I will go through with it. I intend to take this car to the 300k mark! Please Help!!

Eric says... IAC,MAP,TPS,EGR you can reset the computer by disconnecting the battery. A wreck can cause just about anything. Check for a bad head gasket also. Mark writes

Hi, I was hoping you could help me out. I need to replace the gas shocks that open and hold the trunk on our 98 Sebring. Is there any trick to doing this>? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mark from Sarasota Florida

Eric says.........Most autoparts sell strongarm replacement shocks, or try a salvage yard..... Angela writes

My name is Angela and May 2002, I bought a 1996 Chrysler Sebring LX from a Chrysler dealership. It was used with 72,000 miles on it. I bought it for looks, it's polo green with wood grain console. I never expected to have trouble out of it or regret buying it. I have owned it over a year and have replaced tires/rotors(normal maintenance I guess), front brakes, thermostat(to no avail), and now am looking at replacing the timing belt(another maintenance thing) and rear brakes...I'm afraid that the head is blown, but is there any diagnostic tool that can point that out? Or do I have to replace everything else first? Am looking for anyone else who's bought a lemon like I did...if I could, I'd trade it in a heartbeat!

LXiSebring.. If a filled/flushed radiator and new thermostat doesnt cure an overheating problem, the next logical place to look usually is a leaking head gasket. The head warps a bit and hot gasses from the cylinders overheat the water. This is not THAT big of a repair, but they DO need to remove the head and mill the head flat again. Fortunately on a 4 cyl there is only one gasket to replace. On a V6 both heads have to be removed and the repair is that much more complex and expensive. What may have happened is the previous owner ran it with a low or leaky radiator and ended up warping the head. It's a common problem and should be a straightforward fix.

More Info

My name is Angela and I bought a used 1996 Chrysler Sebring LX from a Chrysler dealership over a year ago. My problem is(and if its been dealt with in depth on the site, I'm sorry for writing) my car has a coolant leakage problem, centered primarily around the overflow tank. I've had my thermostat changed actually yesterday and the leaking has gotten worse...but still its around the overflow area. My car first ran hot about two months ago, but hasn't ran hot since, but will smoke under the hood around the overflow tank. I can fill the tank, also, and drive it, only to come home and the tank be empty. I haven't had any visible leakage until three days ago. Could my overflow tank have a hole, or is something just pushing the coolant out of the overflow tank? I'm frustrated because I love my car, but don't really have the funds to keep it in the shop. Thanks for your help...

Eric says... Yes, probably a hole in the tank or tube. You really need to get a coolant system pressure test done.

LxiSebring: That repair for sure would be a LOT cheaper than a new head gasket.


Kevin writes

>My name is Kevin and I bought my first car this september. It is a 97 Lxi. I am looking to add some style and performance, but first I have to take care of a few wear and tear problems. I am looking to replace the headers and down pipe with something aftermarket but I am having trouble finding something for this car. Plus, making things even more difficult I live in Canada...so getting parts here can be tough. If you can help me with my problem I would really appreciate it

Eric says... Bosal makes something. Make sure you specify 4 or 6 cylinder. A good tip when searching is to look under Dodge Avenger. Same car here in the states.


Steve writes

hey guys i have been reading your site for a month or two and have had a few questions answered from reading the post ( thanks )

well i would like to be a memeber and or have a couple new problems figured out .

i have a 96 lxi 2.5l , i was driving down a bumpy road one day and the car started to sputter then died , of course i thought fuel problems ( no gas ,bad pump, filter etc) well i fixed all the above and the distrubuter cap and rotor . still nothing , i pulled the fuel part off the engine by the distr cap and turned engine over and no fuel came out aswell as there was no power noise coming from the pump , i bypassed the power to the pump directly and it worked hmmmm??

ok this is what i noticed, there is a plug that is on the wire harness under the air filter tube that goes from engine to filter box when removed i noticed the WIRES rubed together "POSSIBLY CAUSING MY PROBLEM" !! im thinking it may have shorted out my computer or injection ? i cant find the plug or any info in my CHILTON book and the dealer has no clue either, (over the phone anyway)

so im left with a car that turns over and never even sounds like it wants to start.!

thanks and keep the site going its helpfull

steve

LXiSebring: Have you got it started yet?


Simon writes

Hi Eric, I own a '97 Sebring Lxi and just recently it has developed a humming noise in the front. It almost seems like just loud tires (I just got new ones) but I think there is more to it than that. When I turn the wheel left during driving, the noise goes totally away. Otherwise during straight and right driving the car makes a really annoying whirring noise. Do you have any idea what this could be? Thanks! --Simon

Eric says... That is absolutley a wheel bearing hub assembly, dealer only item, $300 installed.


Janet writes

T Hi, we own a 2002 Sebring Coupe LXi that has sustained some significant damage to the rear end. It has been reconstructed but the original trunk(lid) is still in place. However, the letters spelling out the name of the car are out of place. Do you know where those are available along with a diagram or other means of knowing exactly how and where to place them? Also, how much would it cost? We don't want to have to buy a new trunk, but I'd like to have the letters replaced.

Also, we'd like to get another remote, but don't know which one to buy. We've seen two online and understand that the convertible is made by Chrysler whereas the regular coupe is made by Mitsubishi. We have a very plain rectangular one with three buttons-lock, unlock, trunk, and panic on the back. We've found another one online, but it looks different. It's rounded at the top and has pictures on the remote instead of text. Which one should we get and how can we reprogram it?

Thank you! God bless you!

Eric says... Body shop for the trunk letters. As far as the remote goes TRW makes most of them. I'd say you need to make a trip to the dealer. We got 2 remotes when we bought our 2002 Stratus.


Don writes

I have a 1995 Sebring Coupe, when i start driving for about 15-20 minutes the car losses power and cuts of, after i pull over to the side and get the car to start right away, I'll be fine for the whole day. It seems when the car sits over night, that's when the problem starts.

Do you know what's wrong with my car.

Thanks don.

Eric says ..... Not enough info but could be a clogged fuel filter, injector, fuel pump, or something electrical.


Shree writes

I have a 96 Sebring LXi. Love the car. 140,000 miles. Still going strong. I tried changing the headlights. I unscrewed the cap... which was easy. First, just getting my hand into the space is difficult. On top of that, I just can't seem to get the spring (that holds the headlight) off. Do I need to unmount the entire headlight assembly before doing anything?

Eric says .....That spring is more like a hook. You have to push and pinch towards the front of the car. The spring fits into a hook feature on the bulb bezel, it's almost a blind procedure but very simple once you do one. Think of it as a bent piece of wire that has a spring type effect on the bulb base once hooked into its slot. I just turned 140,000 on my 96 as well......


Mike Abale writes

I have a 95 lxi, what can I do to make it breathe better?

LXiSebruing: An aftermarket air cleaner?


Ginny Lou writes

Hi, My husband & I bought our '96 Sebring LXi out of necessity in Sept. of 2002. Before that time, the newest car we had ever owned was an '87 Toyota Corolla. Both our '85 Camry & '87 Corolla had seen MANY miles & gave superb testimonies for the Toyota products, before totally wearing out. Without any transportation for 3 mos. we were offered help in obtaining transportation, the choices being an '87 Ford Taurus Wagon & the '96 Sebring. My sister has owned various Chrysler vehicles for over 30 years & I've worked at 3 Chrysler dealerships so I figured we'd be getting a good product. We have had a few things happen that have been mentioned in the other notes sent to you, but the major one we seem to have right now is getting the vehicle smogged. When we bought the car we were temporarily living in S. Carolina, so smogging was not required to register the car. Now that we've moved back home to California, we have to smog the car before we can register it. While in S. Carolina the 'ck eng' light was on more than it was off, but every time we had it checked we were told everything was running OK & not to worry about it. In trying to pass the SMOG test here, we've had to replace the o2 sensors, which in this car there are 4, & has become quite expensive. They reset the computer readings & say to drive it a day or 2 & bring it back. The light always goes on the 2nd day & round & round we go. When you move here you are given 20 days in which to register your car or pay a fine. Trying to solve this problem has run us into the 21+ days & now we're going to have to pay a fine. Nothing seems to be the matter now, & 2 of the sensors that were replaced were found to be perfectly alright, that's a loss of $320. My question is: "Has anyone else ever had this problem? And how did they take care of it?". If I could get any answer I would appreciate it. My e-mail address is in the From: section, along with my name in parenthesis.

LXiSebring: USUALLY check engine lights come on because of an emissions control problem that is out of spec. The code normally gives a good clue as to exactly whjat part is not functioning and dealer mechanics would be lost without that info. Why they want you to drive the car is so the codes get stored in the computer as an aid to diagnosis. Whenever the light comes on a code specific to the problem gets stored, so if the light comes on after 2 days it should be pointing to a specific fix by the dealer. Lacking the codes there is no way to diagnose, but if the O2 sensors were replaced when the light came on recently some other problem was identified by the computer, which the dealer should be able to track down.

Carolyn writes

To: LXiSebring@aol.com I am considering the puchase of a Sebring Coupe Platinum. After reviewing the problems on the Sebring Cupe Owner's pages I wonder if the purchase of such a vehicle is wise.

If you could advise me I sure would appreciate your comments.

Carolyn

LXiSEbring: I've had good luck with my over 8 year old '95--nothing major at all. Fewer problems in recent years than in the first few years of ownership. Others may want to comment further.


Paul writes

Eric,Thanks for doing the service you are doing. With your knowledge of the 2001's mechanical problems, would you reccommend a person buying an extended warranty with all of the new technologies? Thanks for your time and answer.

ERic says... .....Extended warranties start at the day the car was delivered regardless. Chrysler extended warranties are ok but if your driving the car into the ground it's better to fix out of pocket in the long run.....

LXiSebring: I agree. Extended warranties are a profit center for dealers whereby they make huge bucks (70% of what you pay in is a good guess) in exchange for insuring against a major repair cost. If people want insurance, someone should market a low-cost insurance product that covers only major repairs--say those costing over $1500. Actuarily, such a product could be sold at very low cost, but extended warranties, like service departments in general, have become the dealer's cash cow with tight profit margins on vehicle sales. So no one wants to shoot the cow. True for other extended warranties too. Circuit City makes way more on the extended warranties they sell than the low-margin products. That's why you can't get out the door without a sales pitch for a $29.95 per year warranty on a $79.95 color TV. Bryan Redinger writes

Hi Fellow Sebring Owners, I am the proud owner of a 1996 sebring LX with 128,000 km's on it. I really like this car, but wish they mated a 5spd transmission with the V6. My car is fully loaded. It has leather, sunroof, tape/cd, cruise, etc. I have a couple of questions. My car didn't come with an owners manual so I can't check these facts out myself. I need to know the bulb size for the fog lamps, as well as the bulb numbers for headlights. I would like to change the bulbs to the HID "type" ones can anyone suggest ones that work well with the car? Second, I don't know if anyone of you have experienced this problem, When the car is in drive(D) with O/D off, and I put my foot to the floor, the tach goes way into the red, like to the end of it without shifting. Does anyone else have this problem? I don't want to blow up my motor, so I want to know if this a serious problem. Anyways, I love your site, it provides a great deal of information, and is fun to browse through. Thanks again

LXiSebring: If the transmission isn't shifting down after red lining, something is not quite right. IN the meantime I certainly wouldn't think it advisable to run the engine for more than a second or two beyond the red line


David writes

Hi LxiSebring, I love the site and the fact that it exists shows that the Sebring coupe is a fantastic car. I own a 1997 Lxi that I purchased 2 months ago. I am really enjoying it and I look forward to learning more about the car from the web site. Please add me to the club, I will send a picture shortly. Thanks!


Maggie writes My husband and I bought our first new car and it was a Chrysler Sebring coupe! It drives like a dream..has fantastic pick up and is very enjoyable to drive..I have never owned a Chrysler, but now I am hooked! The color of our car is the deep red, almost brown. Maggie*


gedoran writes: >I have had to replace 5 wheels (rims). Have you found this to be a chronic problem? I have a 1998 Sebring Coupe.

Eric says..... Yes, it's a problem. I switched to 205/55/16 and have only bent one in 6 years. Chrysler will tell you to quit hitting things. Write to the NHTSA, at least they will log it in a complaint file. Chrysler customer service has been useless since the take over. In fact, I'm now in a court case over a new Dodge with what I feel are problems that I could probably fix myself.


Joy writes

i just came across your website because my automatic '95 lxi decided to stop shifting today and i wanted to know if this is common for lxi's. I was going 30-40mph, i was at 3000rpm and no shift. i tried everything, checked everything, talked to everybody...it's got 112,000 miles on it and i've only had it for maybe 7 or 8 months. the woman who owned it before me seemed to keep it in good shape. any ideas/suggestions? i'm in boston so getting the tranny replaced will cost me my first born child. have you heard from other people about this?

also, the right side dash speakers have gone. i read that this is common on your site. any suggestions for replacements?

a poor student doesn't need this right now,

LXiSebring: This sounds like a problem with the computer module that controls the transmission--hopefully it's not inside the transmission. Sometimes these problems are relatively simple to fix--as in diosconnected wire or loose connection, sometimes not. Your only choice is to take it to a good dealer.


Vig1lante writes

Hello. I just recently bought a 98 sebring LXi from a chevy used car lot. I love this car! It has tan leather seats, handles nice, and looks pimp too. However, its been only a month and my moonroof is stuck shut. I checked the fuse under the dash and its not blown. When I hit the button to open the sunroof, I hear a clicking noise coming from the moonroof (not the sound from the button). It worked so perfectly the same morning. I parked it and from that moment I couldnt open it. Someday suggested it might be belt driven, and maybe there is a problem. I even tried to help it along, but it wont budge. I dont push to hard because I fear it might break. Has anyone had this problem before? If so please give me a suggestion or any help!

LXiSebring: Not sure. I would suggest taking it to a shop that installs sunroofs, and see what they say. Those shops seem to know more about the nuances of how sunroofs work than the dealers do.


Lee Griffin writes

I have recently had to replace both lower ball joints on my car, I am wanting to know if there was a recall for this particular problem will Chrysler reimburse you for these items? The car is a fun car to drive with only two problems at this time, rear hub bearing need to be replaced and outer tie rod ends need to be replaced, which I am thinking may have something to do with the recall that is in affect...

LXiSebring: I somewhat vaguely recall a ball joint recall on some 96 models. Check the 96 and 97 archives.


Harry writes

Distributor Cap/Rotor Replacement--is it DIY?

Eric says..... Thats all normal maintence stuff, I would use OEM parts. The job really is not that bad if you have a manual to follow.


Dakota writes

hey, I was wondering how fast you have gone in your sebring, I was also wondering what engine you have I have an LXi that is putting out 200hp I was just wondering when the governor cuts you off.

LXiSebring:I'm not a good one to ask on that as I am not a fast driver. The early Sebring V6 engines put out about 163 hp not 200 hp. Someone else might volunteer info. Jim Naylor writes

Just add me to the group of Sebring owners with the famous "Check Engine" light problem in my '96 LXi 54K miles). Hard code is 48 (misfiring)? If so, I suppose it could be a host of things from plugs, wires, injectors, coils, etc., etc., etc.,ad naseum? I started with a new set of platinum plugs - no help, but it was time for them to be changed, as the electrodes were somewhat burned and showing evidence of blow-by on the insulators.

The links to the PCM code list from your very helpful site don't work on my system... server not found. Every other place I've looked doesn't seem to know the LXi is unique. Thanks for any help!


Rob writes

I have a 2002 Sebring. The car was making a tapping noise. I took it to an oil change place. They screamed at me to turn my engine off immediately.

The car was TOTALLY out of oil.
No sensor light ever went off. I always added oil.
The car is at the dealer overnight. When they call me, what the hell do I say!
Are there other Sebrings out there with these types of problems?
Rob

LXiSebring: 2002 cars don't just burn up their oil if you haven't checked the dipstick regularly. Either this was a major leak (in which case your garage floor should be covered with oil--four quarts even spread out over months would be very messy--a CUPFULL is a big patch. A few drops will make a quarter-sized spot), or a major internal mechanical failure. Hopefully whatever repairs are need will be done under warranty. We are waiting to hear what the cause was.


Joseph writes

hello my name is joseph i was reading through your prob with you car about the battery. My car is doing the same thing it just keeps stalling on me i can let it sit and it will turn over but its really unreliable. i just recently baught a new battery from PEP BOYS for about 80 bucks.its not even a month old and its still stalliing on me if i get the battery from the dealer is that one better. thanks

LXiSebring If the problem is indeed the battery a new battery should fix the problem for at least 12 months. If you still have problems you have an issue with the alternator/charging system that needs to be checked out.


Marc Ramsey writes

Hi, My name is Marc and I am 19 years old and live in North Carolina. I bought a '98 LXi in early april. It is fully loaded and metallic burgundy in color with the tan leather. It had a little over 90,000 miles on it at the time of purchase. I have many plans for it in the future and have already done a few things to it:

It has been lowered about 1" all around
It has a Viper alarm system
17" chrome wheels
80 watt xenon low-beams and 100 watt xenon high-beams

I plan to redo the stereo within the next month or so due to the fact that the 6 1/2s and one of the small dash speakers blew shortly after I purchased the car. I'm going to bypass the amp or get it done professionally. I have Infinity reference 652i for the doors and I'm planning on getting some Alpine 6x9s. I'm not sure where to get speakers the size of the dash speakers. I have a JVC KD-SH55 deck to go in and two Polk GNX 124 12" subs, and four gauge power wire, but no box or amp yet. I would like to replace all the bulbs on the car (tail & brake lights, turn signals, parking lights, backup lights, and all interior lights) with high-output LED bulbs but I'm having trouble finding the right bulbs, especially the tail lights. The cheapest I've found is $24 a bulb plus s/h which when you figure I need six for just the tail lights, that is a pretty pricy little customization for what its worth. The problem is I can go down to the local auto-parts store and they have LED tail light bulbs for $14, they just aren't the right kind. I also want to get some superblue fog lights or replacement bulbs for the current lights to go with the xenon superwhite headlights. I also saw a black LXi on your site with clear bumper lenses, and I would like to get some of those but I don't know where to find them. I actually need to replace the headlight lenses before I worry about that though. The car needs a lot of normal maintainance right now that I really can't afford at this point. It desperately needs a tune up because it smokes a little when I start it and it hasn't been running for a while. However I've heard that a tune-up on these cars can run up to about $300 due to the fact that you have to remove the intake baffle to reach the back two spark plugs. Thats a whole lot for a tune-up. It is a couple hundred miles overdue for an oil change and the transmission fluid probably should be changed. My guess is it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and replace all the fi lters on the car. It needs new brake-pads and possibly rotors due to the fact that the brakes rub and squeal constantly; which seems to be a common complaint among owners of these cars. While I'm at it and have the tires off I figure I should go ahead and have them balanced and rotated. Also, I'm not sure if this is a common problem with these cars or if its something you know the cause of, but my car whistles loudly at anywhere from about 55 to 65 mph. I hadn't read anywhere on your site about anyone else expereincing this problem but I may have missed it somewhere. My dad thinks it's the transmission pump. To top it all off I managed to crack the windshield maybe a month after I got the car due to the compass module falling off the rear-view mirror when I hit a bump and I pushed a little to hard while trying to get it back on and cracked the windshield and it has done nothing but run ever since. I've had this estimated at about $380 to replace, which is pretty expensive, a nd just way more than I have to spend, especially after all this other maintainance I need to have done. I could save myself some money and do the brakes and tire rotation and filter and all that myself except the nose of the car is so low that my jack wont go under the car and I have no ramps and I don't know anyone who does have ramps and I'm going to need extensions for them so the car can even get on them. I don't know what I'm going to do at this point. And honestly the paint looks good except that the nose is scratched up and the hood has rock chips and the clear coat is peeling off from the little lip right behind the side windows and it has begun to bubble and chip off the spoiler due to exposure to the sun, so It sounds like I'm gonna need a little touch-up done soon. I am happy with my car and as soon as I get all of these little things out of the way and can get back to customizing it the way I want it I will be even happier with it. The car has just under 100,000 miles on it now and is still running pretty quietly and smoothly and I think after all this maintainance gets done it should run like new. I don't have any pics of the car at this point other than some of me and my girlfriend posing in front of it before her prom. So I'll try to get some taken of it and get them to you so you can post them on the site. If you have any information on anything that I questioned feel free to e-mail me back with it or just post it on the web-site. Keep up the good work.


Renato writes

I have a 2002 Sebring LX with about 16,000 miles. Recently I noticed a slight shudder or vibration when making small turns(lane changing, avoiding road hazards) around 35 - 45 MPH. It happens after making the turn when returning the wheel to run straight. When going straight I move the wheel left to right and feel it in between the turns and center position. At other speeds, the car runs smoothly. Is this a speed sensitive steering problem or merely crappy OEM tires gone bad? Thanks in advance for any input.

LXiSebring: Not sure,..we will see what Eric says...


Tammy writes

I am extremely disappointed with my car Sebring Lxi coupe. 1999. I have had nothing but trouble and still having trouble. It only has 54,000.00 miles. Actually it just turned over to 55,000.00 and I'm very frustrated. I have had everything replace from the transmission to catalectic convertor. The platinum spark plugs, distributor, alternator, every major part to the car. That is absurd. And I was told that everything was corroded and the fuel injection lines where also corroded. I wanted to trade it in for a pt cruiser 2002. But they rejected my application. I'm ready to contact my lawyers for the lemon law or bankruptcy. I would rather walk away with a different car. I appreciate you time. But I, am, to give the car back.

Sincerely, Tammy Sarabia, a concerned and frustrated customer.

LXiSebring: I am sorry to hear you are having problems. Did you buy this vehicle new or used? Some of these problems (ie the fuel line corrosion) sound as if they may have happened by an action of a previous owner. In general lemon laws apply only in instances where a dealer has made several attempts to fix hte same problem, without success. Have you considered trading the car? Dealers usually are more than willing to cut deals with customers in these instances rather than have unhappy customers, and I can't believe the dealer wouldn't have some reliable transportation on the lot he would swap you out for at the current value on a 99 Sebring--even if slightly older or less stylish. It's often better to do this and cut your losses than to try to continue to fight the problems.


Andres Flores writes

I dont konw if this is a known issue but I just changed my brakes and now every time i try to stop the brakes will burn . i had to come to a quick stop and the brakes will not work the way they should , it seems as if they will melt to a stop i mean i hit the brakes all the way on the high way and the car will start to stop quickly but then it seems as if the brakes loose grip and start to stop slowly and you smell burning metal. by the way i have a 1997 jxi convirtible with the 2.5. ony last thing i bought the car used and it has a holley intake and i wanted to know if that is stock no one seems to know . thank you

LXiSebring: Something wasn't done right when the pads were changed--I'd get this checked out and quickly!


Jeff Holminski writes

Please go to www.cardomain.com/id/coppahead and you will see info on my Sebring.


Robert writes

Well, this is an update on my spark plug/OS2 sensor replacement on my 1996 Sebring. With a V-6 FI model it wasnt to difficult getting the manifold off. Just follow the directions and remove all pertinant bolts. Especially those behind the manifold close to the firewall. The rear O2 Sensor was a BASTARD!!!!! Front one, a piece of cake. 83,000 miles, I would suggest EVERYONE replace theirs ASAP. Buy the Bosch universal sensor, do a lil assembly labor, and save yourself $60 a pop. Related gaskets are CHEAP, $12 tops. After 2 hours, a few split knuckles, several shots of penetrating oil and $22 spent on an O2 extraction tool, (buy it. Found it @ NAPA), the beotch finally came out!! AFTER using a 3 foot BREAKER BAR!!! The REAL beotch though was........#4 spark plug breaking off at the threads, leaving said thread assy & electrode inside the cylinder head!!!! I inherited this issue, so dont blame me for installing them wrong. :) PLEASE, when replacing your spark plugs use ANTI-SIEZE grease on ALL plug threads. You will thank yourself later for it. So far easy outs havent helped, so Im going to try reverse tip drill bits in an effort to extract the core. Grease on the bit to attract and hold metal shavings and a very small vacuum cleaner hose stuck down the 1 1/2 ", 4-5" deep plug hole should give me a chance. Other then that its REMOVING the head!!!! ACK!! A reverse pitch drill bit should grab the core and as its doing that should also place the correct "unscrewing" motion on the threads and as the part gets worn Im hoping it eventually frees itself and releases. Ill keep you all posted. Even with this headache Im saving HUNDREDS of dollars doing it myself. This lil note is a HEADS up for those thinking about doing it yourself and I hope Eric and the gang post it soon. I would STRONGLY suggest penetrating oil sprayed liberally on ALL plugs & O2 sensors at least a DAY b4 removal. COLD ENGINE. The Chrysler shop manual is also worth its wieght in GOLD. SO BUY IT.

P.S. your disk brake guy is fantastic!!! Fred I think. Very helpfull and fast. Replaced the front rotors and pads. EXCELLENT!! Rotors are left and right desinated so make sure you put them on the correct side.

LXiSebring: LOL, you mean Eric I think!

Eric says..Sometimes those O2 sensors just get lazy and don't switch on and off properly. Thanks for the tip, very common problem at that milage


Eric says....Plugs and wires, 87 Octane


DJ writes

I have a 99 lxi coupe and as it states in a couple of the posts on your site that it is normal for the morning valve knocking to last a few minutes then go away as the engine heats up, mine no longer goes away.

Am I in big trouble?

Eric says.... Uhh yaa.. Try changing the oil latley? use a heavier weight.


Mark writes

Hello, We have a 1999 Sebring LXi Coupe (black) purchased new in 99. Currently our Sebring has 47,300 Km on it and runs great (thanks to regular maintenance)...however we have experienced an ongoing problem with our tires/wheels.

We have had to purchase 4 new tires (4 separate incidents) due to our low profile tires leaking/loosing air....driving on them...and slicing the side wall. This really seems to happen when there is a fluxuation in weather temperature (and living in Winnipeg, Canada...doesn't help).

Our question to you both would be....have you heard of other owners with the same issue? If so, do you have any information or evidence of this as we are planning on taking Chrysler to the wall (as they claim it's a Goodyear tire problem....Goodyear claims it's a Chrysler wheel problem).

The tires on our 99 Sebring are: P215/50R17 90H Eagle RS-A MVSB

Thanks in advance for any/all help/info you can provide.

Eric says.... Sure.. all kinds of problems. Switch to 205/55/16 and they will disappear. Fight all you want they don't care. Write the NHTSA if you please.


Mark McGrath writes

We have a 1999 Sebring LXi Coupe (black) purchased new in 99. Currently our Sebring has 47,300 Km on it and runs great (thanks to regular maintenance)...however we have experienced an ongoing problem with our tires/wheels.

We have had to purchase 4 new tires (4 separate incidents) due to our low profile tires leaking/loosing air....driving on them...and slicing the side wall. This really seems to happen when there is a fluxuation in weather temperature (and living in Winnipeg, Canada...doesn't help).

Our question to you both would be....have you heard of other owners with the same issue? If so, do you have any information or evidence of this as we are planning on taking Chrysler to the wall (as they claim it's a Goodyear tire problem....Goodyear claims it's a Chrysler wheel problem).

The tires on our 99 Sebring are: P215/50R17 90H Eagle RS-A MVSB Thanks in advance for any/all help/info you can provide.

LXiSebring:

ALL narrow-profile tires are prone to more damage and problems of this sort than older, wider-profile tires. On a wider profile tire, the sidewall itself acts as a bit of a bumper when hitting against curbs and other road hazards. The wider profile protects the wheel. In the case of the narrow profile tire the rim itself not the sidewall hits something and before you know it you have an ever so slightly bent rim and a tire that won't hold air.

Some people seem to have more problems in this regard than others--in part it depends on your driving situation and whether you have to deal with stuff that hits the rim.

16-inch rims from the 1995-96 LXi are better than the 17 inchers but still have problems. The real solution is to find a set of 14 inch steel wheels and wheel covers that were OEM on the LX and then use a 14 inch tire. The car won't handle quite as well as with the high performance tire with the bigger rims. The ride will be a tad softer but you will no longer have these kinds of problems. You might find a set of steel wheels and covers at an auto recycler.


EAsyBeezie writes

Hey, I have a 1996 Sebring coupe. I put some of those after market head lights in there to make the headlights brighter. They are 55W. For some reason the fuse kept blowing out so I added a bigger one and that worked but then the wire burnt out. So now I have to rewire the headlights. Do you have any hints that will help. Can I tap into the fog lights for the headlight wires?

Eric says... NOOO !! check your ground and use regular stock wattage bulbs.

LXiSebring: AMEN


Ted Case writes

Mr. Tech, Could use any suggestions you have. I bought my son a 1998 Sebring LXI V6 over a year ago. Up to four weeks ago, he LOVED IT. But it started to randomly stall out. . . could stall within 10 minutes after you started driving or 3 hours. Could be at 25 mph or 65. . . in an intersection or major highway. Immediately re-starts, but many scary moments on lost power. I have started driving it myself now and can verify IT'S HAPPENING. He also says it sluggish. . . like on cruise control and the tack does periodically rise/drop 200-300 RPM while driving at a steady speeds. . . feels like it going to stall any time, but doesn't. Happened with or without AC on. . . with or without cruise control on. I have taken it to two 5 Star dealers and been told the same thing. . . no code, no problem. Of course, then they look it over and drive it, sometime for hours/keep it for days and it doesn't happen. We take it back and it happened within hours. I read your notes on EGR values and asked them to check this. . . they say fine, no need to replace. I have my LAST 5 Star dealer appointment next Wednesday. Any thoughts on what to check or say to them would be appreciated. I can't let my son, a college student with a job, try to do it all with a randomly failing car. And I want mine back! - Ted P.S. I really enjoyed your web page

Eric says...Whats your local lemon law state about several attempts to repair the same problem ?

LXiSebring: This REALLY sounds like a problem with the computer module that controls the fuel system. I am shocked and surprised it's not spewing out a code. Another possibility involves the tank-mounted fuel filter. Shell was having problems with a milage increasing additive causing fuel filters to gum up which in turn would lead to stalling. You havent been running Shell gas have you? When it stalls, either A. Gas isnt getting to the fuel injectors (aka gummy in-tank fuel filter) B. Gas is at the fuel injector system but is not being distributed properly (problem with the fuel injection computer module?) or C. for some reason you are momentarily losing spark so fuel correctly in the cylinders is not being ignited (different computer module problem controlling spark). In the latter two instances the computer should be spewing out a code to announce what happened. That's why I come back to the gas tank fuel filter or gas line clogging theory, which is not connected to the computer in any way so far as I know, and would result in codeless stalling. Another possibility--intermittent problem with fuel pump itself. Keep in mind this is only a theory.

Aaron Steggs writes

Please help. Im having problems with my car overheating. Ive replaced the theromstat with no success. It is overheating when it is at idle or low rpm but when the rpms are raised the lower the guage reads. it does this in park as well as in motion. i recently had a coolent flushing. i would love to hear what you have to say about this

thank you aaron

LXiSebring: If overheating problems aren't resolved with a new thermostat or coolant flush, sadly, usually the problem is a leaky or blown head gasket.


Greg Casto writes

My name is Greg Casto and I've been having a terrible time trying to find the right throttle cable for my 96 sebring lxi. I was wondering if you might know what part I'm looking for.

LXiSebring: That should be no problem for a dealer parts department to locate. Every dealer has an on-line parts book that should be dead accurate and be current. It's merely a matter of looking at the drawing and getting the correct number.


Letter to Sebring owners from LXiSebring:

My '95 now has 32,000 miles on it, odd service, virtually all in stop and go city driving. Running good. Many, many short trips under a mile or two...I live under 2 miles from work. Thinking about new tires. I had it into the dealers for and oil change and asked them to check tires and brakes--both original. Been contemplating new tires as I have a plug in one of them, but the dealer pronounced the tires as good. The verdict on the brakes was that I have 55% remaining on front, and 50% rear. I drive conservatively, but since the driving is all in-town the brakes get used a lot. I almost never use the brake to slow the car at speed, and rely primarily on engine braking. THis is interesting in that I know a lot of you went through brakes and had to have rotors redone at under 20,000 miles.

THey are hinting that I might want to consider a 30,000 mile service/tuneup that I suppose would change out spark plugs etc plus a new $250 timing belt. Already flushed the radiator. Not sure how anxious I'm gonna be about these items. Interestingly I don't recall ever getting a timing belt failure letter in the years I have run this site.I'm sure all of you have been studious about changing your timing belts every 30,000 miles ROFL.

Aside from a few minor problems--mostly dead batteries that leave me stranded at unexpected times, my LXi has treated me well. Even the battery situation seemingly has improved. I'm two years and counting on this last battery from the dealer with the green "Delco" (I THINK its a Delco that says Chrysler on it) eye. I have never gotten a battery to go for more than two years before.

Sadly, one day the Silver Sebring will need to be replaced, but I plan on keeeping her awhile longer, tho this could change esp if something major happens. Mark writes

is this a common problem with the 95 sebrings that you know of? Last year i had to have it changed and now my car is doing the same thing. Today i pressed on the gas pedal to hit the passing gear and all of a sudden it sounded like i had just shifted it into nuetral. I pulled over and when i took off again my car wouldn't shift into the third gear or overdrive. I had to drive home with only low 1 and low2 gears. If it sounds like it might be the TPS again, what would cause these to go bad. Thanks Mark

LxiSebring: Dunno--I'm checking with Eric for you


Michael writes

Just a couple questions for you, may have already covered them on your site and I just missed them, but here goes. Just bought at 95 sebring lx. I don't have a copy of the owner's manual, or the keyless entry thing. You have any idea where I could come across either, besides the dealer? Second, The power locks won't lock/unlock the passenger door, and the light doesn't come on when that door is open. Any ideas? Thanks for the help Michael Leffler

Occasionally remote keyless entry dealies show up on ebay, but you still gotta get them programmed at your dealers. I suspect at some point owners manuals will show up as PDF files for downloading on the Chrysler web site, but this hasn't happened yet. Te publisher is making too much money. But your owenly option is to order thru your dealers parts dept.

The power lock problem is a common problem--I've had one repaired--its a failed relay that seems prone to failure. THe problem is its a $160 part PLUS about 3 hrs labor. One of these deals wwhere you have to decide if its enough of an issue to merit the repair cost. I suspect the door light problem is unrelated--and might be in a faulty or intermittant passenger side door switch on the "B' Pillar PLay with the swiutch and see if you can get the light to come on. there is a rubber bushing over the top of it

Note

I just got a bunch of responses beack from Eric on assorted questions. I am going to list them all here. If a few of the letters are repeats, I apologize ---LXiSbring Rick writes

Sir I have a 96 Sebring and the past eight months I have been banging my head against the wall with problems that the dealer cannot seem to fix or get right. My Sebting has 61K and used to drive like a dream. In January 03 I took my car to the dealer becuase of a check engine light, it resulted in spark plugs (including the platinum plug) wire set, a valve job (because loss of power), manifold gasket/head gasket. After all that the dealer tells me that they were having problems programming the onboard computer. Well here is my question ever since 2K in repair bills when I start my car the engine sounds like a truck and idles roughly, when it is in gear idling at a stop it almost feels like it wants to shut off. I took the car this week and had the battery, alternator and starter checked out to be safe and they all checked out, what else can I troubleshoot? Have you ever heard of a similar problem? I have done everything by the book maintenance wise for this car with supposed certified techs, but it is driving me nuts. I doubt my car's performance and prior to all the initial work I would jump in my car and go without a heartbeat.

Thanks

Rick

Eric says.....Sounds like the cam timing is way off


John writes

Man, I hope you have a suggestion here. I am a fellow Kentuckian and have a 1999 Sebring Coupe (Lxi). My wife ran it off the road last winter and our insurance company wanted to total it. We LOVE it and don't want to do that. So we decided to fix it our selves. Got the frame straightened for a reasonable price, etc. Here's the problem....neither I nor the frame shop can find a front bumper cover.I have looked EVERYWHERE I can think of with no luck. Junk yards,internet,frame shop contacts. They dont seem to be out there. The dealer wants $85.00 for the DOOR HANDLE so I can't imagine what they want for the bumper cover. If you or anyone else you know would have info on where I could get this it would be MUCH appreciated!

Thank You. John Watson

Eric says....Try a local body shop, they have their means.

LXiSebring: Used bumper cover/fascias are in short supply as they are so frequently damaged. Your only ho[pe might be a new one--They are in the $600 range plus painting, I think


John writes

Hello...I have a 1995 Chrysler Sebring and I recently had to have a clutch put in it, well after installing the clutch the shop put the car up on the rack and "drove" it to make sure all the gears worked properly. Well now the AntiLock light is staying on, the repair shop said it was because of "driving" it on the rack and the front weels turning and the back wheels not turning and it would reset itself after driving, it is still staying on. Will it eventually reset it's self? If so, how long should it take? If not, how can I reset it manually? Thanks for your help!

Eric says:....Disconnect the battery


Darby writes

I have a 1996 Sebring that has developed a front end noise at 25+ MPH. It Idoesn"t change in pitch as you speed up. The rotors have been replaced, bearings checked. Now they are suggesting transmission. Instead of transmission, as the mechanic is suggesting, could it be a bad tire...left front looses air (low profile tires) or power steering or who knows! This car has 79,000 miles of recreational driving.

Eric says...It sure could be any one of those. Most likley a bearing, checked or not.


Gary writes

Hello I am trying to help out my nephew he has a 1996 sebring lxi and the drivers hinge is broken I took a short look at it but we cant even see the hinge because the door is stuck under the fender apparently this is a common problem do you know what the fix is? Thanks Gary

Eric says....Take the fender off. Hinge most likley saggging due to the weight of the door.


John writes

Hi Eric I have a 1999 Sebring lxi. I have had the passenger exterior door handle replaced by the dealer. Now the driver handle has broken. Can it be replaced with minimal repair skills? Will I need any special tools? Thanks John

Eric says....Not sure, never did one. Anyone else know?

LXiSebring: THis is a fairly common problem but I haven't heard anyone attempt repairs themselves.

Jacob writes

check engine light ? how do i get it off????

Eric says....Pull the fuse under the hood marked Engine/Motor.

LXiSebring: Sebrings have two fuse boxes, one under the dashboard next to the drivers left knee and one under the hood in front of the battery. There seems to be no rhyme or reason as to which fuse ended up where--for example on my '95 at least, the radio fuse is in the hood box.

Jeff writes

I have a '96 Sebring LXi Coupe with 74,000 miles. I just had the oil changed with the Castrol high mileage oil as per my local Pep Boys recommendation. Now my check engine light is on and I have been idling rough, though not stalling unless the A/C is on (which I rarely drive with but this happened to my wife). Back in 1999 when I bought the car, I heard a knocking sound and it was recommended to change the EGR which I did myself at that time. Swapping this out greatly reduced the knocking but never cleared it up 100%. My question is what is a reasonable life span for the EGR? I have an appointment with my local dealer to complete an engine tune-up to include replacing the plugs (per your recommendation and my initial experience I am not touching that job on this V-6 engine). I believe that the engine is not hitting on all cylinders and that is causing the idle issue and sluggish pick-up. My thought is that changing the plugs will help the engine fire more effectively and should be the end of my "check engine" light problem without changing the EGR. That said, I am looking for your thoughts/opinions on the matter.

Thanks - Jeff

Eric says....Easy, Plugs and wires. You probably have a misfire code which they can check for. EGR's are junk on those cars, so that question cant be answered. A bad EGR usually wont trip the light unless its bad enough to cause drivability problems.


B.C. Taylor writes

Hi... i recently purchased a 1995 Chrysler Sebring Lx, with 90k miles, and at first;i loved this car it could do no wrong...then it seems as if the bottom has fallen out. When ever i go from park to reverse/drive, i hear a winding up sound like a childs toy, i have taken it to several mechanics and they claim that there is no issue...ok. Then the front bumper is now on its last leg standing, i need to have it replaced. My radio was stolen and the wiring from the old radio will need to be updated because apparently no power is coming to the wires, a speaker is busted, the glove compartment is falling, due to parts coming off, while driving. The over head lights dont work at all, at one point in time they did, now...nothing. i could go on but why, i am under the impression either i bought a lemon or i bought a horrible brand. I am hoping i just bought a lemon, and i can have all of these things repaired for a small fortune, because i actually still like the car, i love the body style, its not too small, and just big enough, i love the way it handles over a nice evenly paved road... and i love the gas mileage.  Is there any advise you can provide me on where to go to have all of the above issues resolved. Signed Crying Chrysler, B'ham, AL

LXiSebring: Some of this is easily repaired--some link the tranny noise, not so easy.


Alex Rodriguez writes

Hello i just purchased a 1999 Sebring LXI...ive had it for about a week it has 36700 miles on it. just this weekend it started to idle pretty funny...and im wondering if i filled it w/ the wrong fuel i dont have the owners manual....do you know what type of maintenance it needs right about now......

LXiSebring: Check for a dirty idle control solenoid

what type of fuel do you put in yours....thanx for help

LXisebring: 87 per eric's recommendation.


Bryon writes

Been trying to find upgrades for my 97 Sebring. Haven't done much to it yet. I've had it for 4 years and had no problems till this week. Just has to replace the front and rear main seals and the tranny gasket and cost @ a grand. I'd rather get some rims for that much!!! Looking forward to hearing back from you.

Bryon

LXiSebring: See above for what I know about and check www.asog.net


GC writes

I have a 2001 sebring. It was a promo with about 10,000 miles. I now have to replace the tie rod ends at 36,700 miles. The price is 236.00 by a Chrysler dealer. I have an extended warranty which covers 136.00. I am wondering if this is normal wear and tear or could my vehicle been wrecked in its first life. I really would like an honest answer as i am of the female gender and dont know a lot about mechanical problems. I do know how to check my oil and a few other minor things.

Could be either. There are bushings that can deteriorate or get damaged. Without seeing exactly what the tie rod ends look like, it's hard to tell what might have been going on. Replacing these at that low a milage is a bit odd, but not way out of the odinary. Quiz the Dealer service manager as to hte condition of the ends and whether they looked like road damage or other deterioration. What condition are the roads you normally drive? good or lots of pot holes?


acap writes

well based on you're site I pretty sure that you are the rigth person that i was looking for. well let me just give you a brief explanation about mi problem on my '96 sebring lx (coupe). the thing is when im coasting downhill mi R.P.M's are about 2,000 when I start slowing down to about 20 mph the RPM's drop to 1,500 and the only time when it idles properly ( 800rpm) is until you make a complete stop. can you please help me ?, what part should y replace?. well I expect to here from you soon. thanks for all the hard work

LXiSebring: This sounds like a problem with the electronic control module that sits between the engine and the transmission, monitors engine rpms and tells the transmission what to do. Not something you could easily repair yourself, as it will take specialized equipment to diagnose. Your dealer may want to put a monitor on your engine for a week or so to determine exactly what is happening. It could be relatively cheap to fix (as in a loose wire or corroded somewhere) , or not (as in a whole new computer module). ssj writes

Hey, I'm gunna see if ya'll take my car. ITs a 1997 Chrysler Sebring LXi. Its runnin on 2.5l 24 valve motor.I'm also runnin a hypertech performance chip. I have some 17' factory rimz on it...although they don't look to bad. I got soem really nice ice in it. Its got a kenwood Head unit pushin some Cuspid Mids, Pyramid Highs with a jenson amp. custom encloser with amp and neon lights mounted on them. I got some graphics on it. Mainly dragons, then the inside has some neon lights and some custom APC dragon seat covers and what not. Thats pretty much all for now. I am getin ready to add a custom body kit,tv,dvd,bigger system, lower it round 2 more inches. So this is my Black Dragon. I have enlclosed a picture. Also, I have a page on Lowrider, so check it out sometime!


dougd writes

Hello, Great website.... I just bougt a 2000 sebring LXI 2 weeks ago. The car is in great condition with the cofee laute paint. There are 2 questions that I would like to ask you and that is where can I find parts for my car. I do not mean factory parts but more on the enhancement side like clear light for the front or body kits ect. I just want to be able to check these out to make a dicision to upgarde the car or not. I am sending you a picture that is not realy my car but loos exactly like it. My second question is, from reading other sebring owners on your website I see that there may be a brake issue. My from left hand side does squeek until the brakes get warm like when I get off the freeway. Should I be extra conserned about this. I thank you in advance for your input and hope to send actual pictures of my car very soon.


james anderson writes

I believe one of my daughters attempted to play a CD when the CD changer was full. Thus I have 5 CD's within a 4 CD changer. The CD changer is below the main stereo and just above the little compartment in front of the automatic gear shift. How do I get to the CD changer and remove it so that I can open the CD changer and remove the extra CD? When I attempted to play a CD my LED readout illustrated "Err".

LXiSebring: Good question. I have no idea. would take the car to a car stereo shop.stero In general dealer mechanics know nothing about car stereo sytems other than taking out and installing the entire unit.


Judy Rose writes

Hi - Last week I bought a used Sebring LXI Coupe, 2001 with 45,000 miles, dark red. I was thrilled. I love this car. Then today I heard that the 2.7 liter V-6 engine is a notorious problem, that it doesn't last. A colleague at work who owns an Intrepid with the same engine says hers blew up over the weekend. Her mother works at Chrysler and said the engine is known for trouble. Naturally I'm disappointed. Do you know anything about this? Thanks for any information you can offer.

LXiSebring: I have not had any reports of serious problems with the 2.7 liter engine. If others here have please contact Judy above.


tatasha writes

Hi I am a new sebring owner I just bought a 1999 chrysler sebring coupe lx. I came across this web site searching for ways to customize and make my car look even better. I was hoping i could get some ideas from the club on where and how to start customizing

LXiSebring: THere are a lot of people on this site who do just that! Frank writes

Hey whats up... i was lookin at things for sebring and i think you made your car look really hot... i have a sebring 1999 lxi my self and i was wondering where did you get those side mirrors with the blinkers i was look but i cant find it anywhere..and also i just installed 18inch rims onto my car and i was thinkin how much can i drop my car cuz to tell you the truth im gettin it done tomorrow dropping it to a 1.8 (FF)&(RR) What do you think ??...if you can please get back to me about this.. thanks alot.... frank...

LXiSebring: Not my car but contact the owner Jorhelj@aol.com


Dhelen8 writes

Hello My name is Tony I just bought a 95 lxi and I have read most of your web site but I have a problem that I didn't find It is with the tranny when I am going down the highway it will go like it is in neutral and sometimes it will act like it is hung in 2nd I can turn the engine off then crank it back put it in gear and it will do right until the next time sometimes it changes like new any suggestions or advice as to what it might be THANX

LXiSebring: Dunno--soulds like a problem with the computer control module.


Robin Everage writes

I would love to become a member of the Sebring Club. I am a female 33, with 97 Sebring LXI, red. She goes by the name of Trouble has 150,000 miles and is in fair condition needs some work. Since our union she has had the following problems; transmission and gear box replaced. Since the transmission has been replaced,

when placed in reverse, the car moves slowly as if its in neutral.
check engine light is on (never goes out(
runs hot after continued refilling of coolant, not showing signs of leakage
driver side door will not lock or unlock w/remote or when using passenger side unlock button
doors will not lock automatically when put in reverse
side mirrors will not go in down position to adjust
CD player displays "err"
car sputters @ 80 miles
makes humming noised when accelerating
interior lights will not come on when door is open (makes it very dark at night) when bulb is jiggled it works until door is closed. There's a knob on the side frame of car, when jiggles light comes on, but goes out when open door again.
all fuses check good
could not access some fuses under hood, enclosed in a capsule. Could some of my problems be there
windshield wiper reservoir keeps leaking
rear view mirror keeps falling, especially when hot
passenger seat moves slightly when car in motion, gives new meaning to drive by
Front ends rides rough, car sounds as if its falling apart when hit bumps
door panels keep falling off
Can you please help me. My husband has not a clue. I know that I need a tune up, but I am not sure about anything else. I have not had any problems with car up until I made my last payment. Just your standard brake job, and tire replacement. I get suggestions like timing belt, drive belt, thermostat, tune up, radiator replacement, hoses replacement. I don't know where to start and need a good honest direction and mechanic.

Thank you

Robin and Trouble

LXiSebring: Some of these problems are likely expensive to repair--others pretty cheap. The problem you face is how much money do you want to spend repairing a car that already has 150,000 miles on the odometer. That's considered a good life for most cars. Occasionally cars will go longer than that but these are generally the exception not the rule. You can keep this going, but it's gonna get pretty expensive. You probably have about $800 of basic maintenance to do, timing belt, hoses, radiator drain and flush and other things on that order. But that's just the start. My biggest concern is that it sounds as if the guy who replaced the transmission was less than competent. My other big worry is that you have signs of an impending head gasket failure with the overheating problem--and just getting that fixed will likely be another $800 or so. And you still don't have a car that is running or driving right. The front end repairs could be several hundred dollars too. Sebring front ends are complicated and not something I would let any mechanic work on. At some point you will probably decide it makes more sense to trade this in for something with fewer miles in better shape.


Jason McGonnigal writes

Hi, I saw your sebring on a website an it looks hot. I was wondering if you can help me find some stuff for mine. like the clear headlight with out the orange thing in them and that grill you have.. Thanks jason

LXiSebring: So far as I know no one is making these. If anyone hears otherwise, please let us know here.


dougd writes

Just got a 2000 sebring LXI over the weekend. I was hoping that you could point me towards finding some great pictures and possibly after market parts. I love this car but I am wondering is there anything machanical issues to look out for? Thank you in advance for you input.

LXiSebring: Lots and lots of pics on our photo page (link at top of this page). The guys at www.asog.net keep a lot better track of aftermarket body and performance parts than we do and I would check there.


Joe Gigliotti writes

Hey I not sure if you can answer this, but I thought I might ask... I've been looking at getting underbody's and i got a quote of 249 from one place and 349 from another. They say the higher price covers a relay after the switch... I was wondering if you could explain the benefit... and an led light by the switch. Could you clear this up?

Well lots of switches on cars are simply very low voltage units that when closed send electricity to another type of switch, called a relay, which completes the actual circuit. They do this so only very low voltages, not the voltage the item needs can be sent to the dashboard. Otherwise dash wires would have to be big enough to accomodate whatever wiring is needed for the device being powered. This is commonly used in many places on cars for things like horns, rear window defrosters and, as you found out, lights. In the case of your underbody lights the dash switch sends low voltage to a relay under the car but the relay completes the circut to actually run the light from the car's electrical system.


Dhelen writes

Hello guy I just lucked up on your sight and find it very useful I just bought a 95 Sebring for 500 dollars and found a problem when I am going about 65 or70 it will go into nueutral and you must move the shifter to neutral and turn the engine off and start it again. then it will go back in drive it only does it sometimes I was wondering if it might have some kind of safety switch or something I will be visiting this sight now that I own a sebring any help will be apappreciated thanx

LXiSebring: Dunno--I forwarded your letter to Eric who might know.


Joe writes

Ok this may be a stupid question but what advantage is it to have a 100 watt output when my head unit will put out 200? Thanks...

The OEM head unit actually puts out only a low-level preamp signal, which is amplified by the separate power amp in the trunk to drive the speakers. If your head unit already has a 200 watt power amp built in, you will no longer want to use the separate OEM power amp but bypass that and go directly to your speakers. It is a bad idea to try to drive an external power amp withthe output of the built-in power amp. If you do this you will likely get lots of distortion and possibly ruin the power amp.


John DePrato writes

I am trying to find the part number for some sebring wheels. They are the factory 16" that look kinda like mercedes wheels. I see them on your car in a pic. Could you help me with the part number for those, because I need to purchse 6 lug nuts for those wheels. thanks

LXiSebring: I dunno the number but there was only one standard 16 inch wheel on 95 and 96 LXi models. So just ask a dealer to give you the number for the standard 95 LXi wheel


Karl writes

I found your site about Chrysler Sebring's. I have a 1995 Sebring, but not owners manual. I have been unable to find what fuse the radio is on. Do you happen to have access to this information? Thank you for your time.

LXiSebring:Ahh, there are two fuse boxes on '95 sebrings (and probably other years), one under the dash on the drivers side and another under the hood near the front hood lip on the drivers side. IThe latter is very large and there is a decal that tells what each fuse is. The radio fuse in under the hood--top right, numbered "10"


Scott Hall writes

Hi Guys: I really like your Chrysler Sebring pages. I've got a truly beautiful red 2k1 LXI 3.0 V-6 coupe locked up in the garage. Attached are some pics. Feel free to post these if you like this car as much as I do! Thanks,

LXiSebring: Check the Photo Page


Khalid writes

hello, i have a 97 sebring. there is a problem with the car, somehow the driver's side lock is not working and i have to manually open it. i can hear the motor do the thingy but it does not lock or unlock. i am thinking of repairing it myself. i went to the chrysler website but was unable to find service manual. any tips on how i can open the driver's side door so that i can access the inside of the door?

LXiSebring: The part to repair is expensive (close to $200 for the part alone) and not an easy DIY job. Labor runs a couple hours as well. This one is best left to a dealer. I know, as I have had to have one replaced.


Joe writes

i was wondering if you knew the stats on the amp in the 95' lxi. email back at joegigliotti105@hotmail.com thx


m knapke writes

Hi, I saw your website. I have a 1998 Sebring coupe and although I love how it looks, I'd never buy another Chrysler. I had the car six weeks and all the door panels were loose. I took it back to the dealer, and of course they said it was nothing. They replaced all the door panels. Six weeks later, the panel on the driver's side came off in my driveway. I took it back to the dealer and they said they had never seen anything like this happen before. Pretty much accused me of not taking care of my car. They "fixed" it with some clips that they get from the factory. To make a long story short, for a year and half, I drove the car with a panel missing. They'd fix one panel only to have the other one fall off. I found a website with a list of complaints and discovered this is a common problem with the car. Needless to say, it took all the joy out of buying a new car. Chrysler wouldn't give me my money back, and until I threatened to sue, they wouldn't fix my panels. Finally, they glued the panels on, but they look a little wavy.

I had to replace the mirrors. My tires have had more problems than I can count. I have had so many unexplained flat tires, I have to check every time I get in the car to make sure I can drive the car. For some reason, the tires won't adhere to the rims.

High wear on brakes. And the latest is that the clear coat is coming off my black car. Looks terrible. So now I have to find somebody to repaint my car. No point in going to Chrysler, since I know they won't do anything.

Have you heard of any clear coat problems?

Khalid writes

hello, i have a 97 sebring. there is a problem with the car, somehow the driver's side lock is not working and i have to manually open it. i can hear the motor do the thingy but it does not lock or unlock. i am thinking of repairing it myself. i went to the chrysler website but was unable to find service manual. any tips on how i can open the driver's side door so that i can access the inside of the door?

LXiSebring: This is something I would leave for a dealer. The part to fix this is expensive ($160) and if you mess the part up, you are in deep trouble. Been there!


J writes

Hay Dave; I have a show car that was pictured in " FORWARD '" ,the american heritage of DaimlerChrysler, spring/summer 2002 issue. She is advertising "CEMA" 13th annual car show on June 8th,2002. She is silver mist perilcoat, Viper stripes done in PPG Harlequin, DH 989 green to purple,that flow into a nice side stripe of my design. I also have her doneup like the "Indy 500, Offical Car of May 26,1996". Which brings me to the question I would like to ask you, hopeing for an answer or gidence to the power to be with answer that I have been seaking since I ordered the car new. After seeing Daril Aldermans' in his driveway, and the red one they unvailed at MIS in '94 IROC,and in an advertisment from "MOPAR performance magazine" titled "three chears for this years INDY"--"HISS,HISS,HISS" showing , the offical Pace car ( the Viper ); the offical Truck, blue with white stripes and the offical Car painted red ( the AVENGER ) .....................................................HOW MANY WERE MADE ?................................

LXiSebring: I only vaguely remember this & havent seen any stats. Someone here or on www.asog,net might recall.


Joe Gigliotti writes Hey I have another question then... If it is 100 watts what is the advantage of having it if my deck puts out 200? I'm trying to become more familiar with my setup. Thanks

The receiver/tape CD init acts as a pre-amp to the power amp, unless it is a preamp and power amp combined. Which is what you have if the unit puts out 200 watts. This is not the type of unit you should use to drive the OEM power amp. It will likely overload the power amp and distort the sound. Pick the combined unit only if you arent driving a separate power amp.


Allen Hendry writes You list several topics on your site and refer to them as being archived. For the life of me, I cannot figure out how to access those. Of course, it is late and I'm half asleep. Maybe tomorrow . . . (thanks for the site). And how do you search for the topics you list? A.


The archive links are at the top of the web page by year. Use your Windows Find command to locate letters by problem--ie battery or cladding.


Pam writes

Hi I wanted to write to find out if others have had similar problems. This is the first time I have owned a Sebring, traded a nice suv Mitsubishi montero sport. Thought I wanted a change? Bought the vehicle at the beginning of April and so far I am close to 1200.00 in repair. First it was dragging found out sparks had to be replaced and some wire in there that was almost 600 then had to run a test because service engine soon light was on found out had something to do with leak pump emissions thing in gas tank, that is going to cost me another 200.00 and the most recent thing went to start and the key went in but would not turn, then decided it would turn just enough to put inside lights on but not to engine starting, had to have towed out of here today do not know what is wrong at this point. Very frustrated. Love the look feel good to drive it but do not like these costly repairs... What else?

LXiSebring: You bought this used? Sounds to me like you ended up with one that had been abused by the previous owner. These are very odd and uncommon problems.


Ray writes

Hey, My name is Ray and i sent you an email about a year ago when i first got my sebring. It's a 96 lx with all the goods. I have had several problems with it but i plan on keeping it a long time. Anyway, i have had to replace all 3 o2 sensors, but i still get my check engine light to come on, and when i get it scanned the computer just says that it's an o2 sensor, should i have them replaced again, or could it be something else that the computer is missing? Oh and one more question, my car has stokc16" rims i want to get either 17 or 18 inch rims put on it, but i've heard that it messes up the computer, is this true or is it safe to put a bigger rim on? Thanks

LXiSebring: What is important from the computer's perspective is not the rim size but the outside diameter of the rim and tire. a bigger rim calls for a narrower profile tile. So long as you do this correctly you should be ok. THe rest of the questions you raise on sensors Eric is checking into.


Rick writes

I'm glad to see there is a page like this for our cars. Man I purchased a 1996 V6 with 34K in 2000. Believe it or not I had had any major problems out of my car until I took it to a dealer CHRYSLER to have some routine work done on it. I was trying to keep my car running like a beauty so I simply had the brakes redone, spark plugs (platinum as well) oil change, anti-flish and transmission fluid changed, plus all the belts. After that my onboard computer isn't working properly, the security built-in keeps going off, the timing seems off on my car it shakes when it is idling, I had to replace all my valves and gaskettes, basically I spent over $2,500 worth of work in my vehicle so I would expect that it would run and feel like new. I am currently in Belgium stationed in Mons and I tell you if these problems keep up I just might come back stateside with a Volvo. Thanks for listening.

see photo above and Rick's 96 on photo page


Dave Tubach writes

Great info page on Sebrings. I know it takes a deal of work to do a page, so thank you. I have not however had good luck finding much info on the converts. The link you have to Sebring Convertible Web Site apparently no longer works, nor does the one in the sentence Still more Sebring information can be found at this Web site I would appreciate any info you can give me on Sebring Convertibles. I have driven the Coupes and Convertibles and would like to purchase a Convertible. Don't want to pay the Big Bucks for a new one so would like to research a lot before I pick a year on a used one. Thanks very much...

LXiSebring: Sadly, several convertible sites have started and then stopped. I don't currently kniow of an operating convertible website, but some reader might. I don't really know much about them except that there are lots of differences in both the body & chassis from the coupes.


Jacj writes

Have you heard of any paint issues on black 1998s?

Mine has 2 areas on the roof that are showing small white dots in a circular type pattern. I've tried some of the high-end wax and cleaner products but they have had no effect.

I have seen one other black LXi with the same problem, but much worse than mine. The roof was almost entirely covered with white spots.

I have not been in to the see the dealer yet.

Thanks,

LXiSebring: No I haven't but what you have going on is a clear coat failure of some sort. Perhaps the repair will simply involve removiung the lear coat from that small section and repainting the clear coat layer--should be pretty simple to repair I would think.


Renee Cattaneo writes

Hey your car looks great! I was just searching around to find some parts for mine. I have a 96 LX coupe and I just recently got into a car accident and I was wondering if you knew of any places to get front end bumpers and hoods from. Whether they are stock or aftermarket I would love some advice! Let me know if you can help me out! I appreciate it a lot! Thanks so much!

Do you have and suggestions? I totally screwed up the front bumper and the air lip down below and the hood has a fat crease in it. I called Dodge/Chrysler and they want nearly 500 dollars for a stock bumper with OUT paint. And almost 550 for the hood without paint. I looked at the aftermarket body kits and they are significantly cheaper 299 was the lowest price I saw.

LXiSebring: The prices you were quoted is about right for the new factory parts. Your best bet is your network of auto recyclers (junk yards)


Jessica Neal writes

I own a 2001 Sebring, gold with 17" low profile wheels, and sun roof. I love it alot. But I am looking to customize it more but I can't find any parts. I was wondering if anyone knew where I could find some parts or would have any ideas. thanks Jessica

LXiSebring: www.asog.net


RawRaw writes

My name is Ryan, please call me RawRaw. I have a black 98 Sebring LXi. I have been trying to find performance part for my car but i havent had any luck. i was wondering if you or someone you know would know were i can locate aftermarket parts such as; intake, headers, exaust, chip, ramair, or body kits. If you could help me out it would be greatly appreciated. also what is this car club you guys are talking about?

LXiSEbring: Well in addition to us there is www.asog.net They operate a bit more formally as a club. and keep better track of aftermarket parts than we do here.


Andred writes

Hi, my name is Andrew Hersey. I am 17 and I live in West Chester, Ohio. I drive a 99 red Sebring LXi. It is a great car, I have a few mods including; air intake, bosal catback exhaust underbody neons and LED side markers. as of now the mods aren't so great, but I'm working on it, After all im only 17. The only real problem I've had is the passenger side door molding fell of when I opened the door for my prom date (perfect timing), and it cost me $230 to get it replaced and painted. I purchased the car from a Lexus dealership from a family friend and I am very satisfied with it, one thing very appealing about my car is the 15,000 miles on the odometer. One downside to the car is the lack of after-market upgrades you can add for performance, If you know of anything please let me know. Thank you!

LXiSebring: Older cars w/o computers were a lot easier to do performance mods on. Nearly anything you do on new cars messes up the computer and the emissions. You can thank the Feds & emissions laws for the lack of performance parts.


KCorbin writes

I am an owner of a new 2001 Sebring and recently purchased a 1997 Sebring LXi Coupe for my daughters to use for school. I have been reading the owners page in hopes of gaining a little insight into any major problems I might need to correct in this 1997 Sebring before I turn it over to them. The car has some 60,000 miles (96,000 K) on it and the body is in great shape, the original owner was a mechanic and took OK care of the car. He did remove the original rims and a few other things ( mad at the dealer I guess) when he traded in the car and I am looking to find something to replace them with.

I have noticed a few items that concern me:

1 There is a noticeable knock when the car is first started or is cold, is this normal? It goes away fairly quickly.

2 There is a brake shake and I understand that new rotors will fix that.

3 When will this timing belt need to be replaced and is there a way to tell if it has been done?

4 The car has that hum when under power at most speeds as well, I noted someone commenting on it but there is no response to there question posted? "Sounds like exhaust noise to me"

I purchased the car fairly cheaply I think $7000.00 CDN and I am impressed with it so far. I have found your pages and information posted there very helpful so far and was able to program the remotes using the info you provided. I plan to return the car to as original as possible, so far so good, this motor knock has me worried a bit.

Any help with these few items would be greatly appreciated.

Many Thanks in advance,

Eric says.......A CAD guy like myself, You have found all of the general issues with the Sebring. Timing belt is an 80,000 mile thing, expensive too. My valves are starting to rap all the time at 130,000 miles. Changing the oil more frequently helps.....


Diona writes

My daughter just purchased a 2002 Sebring LXI, still under factory warranty. The vehicle has been in the shop two times now because of excessive gas usage...We're talking 10 miles to the gallon! The Chrysler shop she has taken it to have said twice now that they can't find the problem...She's at 29k now and running out of time and gas! Please let us know if you are aware of anything that could be causing the problem.

Thank you,

Have a great day!!

Eric says....One more time and it's a lemon right? You could call the assistance number, but Chrysler will just ignore you. You could try the BBB.


THomas writes

I have a 1997 sebring the abs light comes on a few seconds arter starting I have taken the sensors off the front wheels and cleaned them but the problem is still there I also scanned for codes there is none whats next

Eric wonders....Does the ABS work?


Cindy writes

Hey, great web page !!!! Read through all the letters and real good info you provide, but didn't see that anyone is having the problem I am. I have a 98 Sebring Coupe, and when I got her about a year ago, I didn't have a lick of trouble - she's a great car :) But just in the last couple months, my brake lights have decided to work intermittently. The first time they went out, my mechanic simply replaced all the bulbs and they worked fine. Now, they're going out again, but it seems to be related to my using my turn signals. Sometimes they work, sometimes I use the turn signal and they don't. It's back at the mechanic's shop, but they tell me they can't find anything - of course it's only proper that the lights work just fine will it's AT the mechanic's :)

Any suggestions?

Again, great web site and LOADS of helpful information !!! This is a site I'll keep coming back to just to keep up on my Sebring data !!! Thanks !!!!

Eric says... Have them check the Ground wires. Sounds like a short to me.


Jude Knight writes

Hi my name is Jude, I own a 1997 Chrysler Sebring coupe LXI, bluish color, 130,000 Km. and still running great. I would like to get onto your forum, I hope I supplied you with enough info.. thanks,


Brad C writes

I recently was lucky enough to aquire a 2001 SEBRING LXi from an auction. Problem is:

1. No manual with it. what is the best way to get one?
2. Side adjustable mirrors don't work. Could be a fuse? What fuse, or do you have a better diagnosis of what is ailing it?
3. Don't know if I have (had) a remote entry control. Is there a way to identify the module that would show that I do. Would love to have the remote control door locks, if they are installed on this great machine.

Nice web site. Thanks for all the insight.

...Eric says... Chrysler.com for the manual, or check ebay. Check your fuses under the hood too.


Robb writes

I am told that I have slack in my front end -- too much to allow for an alignment until fixed -- and that my inner tie rod ends need to be replaced.

However, this has a rack and pinion steering system. Are there tie rod ends inside the rubber boots coming out of the rack and out to the "outer" tie rod ends?

My manuals do not provide any support in replacing these inner tie rod ends. Yet my local parts supplier sells the inner or the outer tie rod ends for this car. I'm a bit confused.

Can you offer any guidance on this?

Thanks.

Eric says.... Not sure on this one, I do know that the lower contol arms were recalled. The rack may not be servicable.


Mpetrilla writes

i am rebuiling a sebring that was in a salvage yard to give to a deserving kid (my "hobby') very 'quality' car and this is the first chrysler product i've worked on. i need to know the numbers/ID of the two relays in the upper part of the interior fuse box that run the heater blower and the defroster. local dealer was absolutely worthless! parts dept had no idea of what to give me said all they had was 5 fuses that weren't labeled????! anyhow - if someone out there could just quickly lookunder there and read me a number would be so grateful!! mpetrilla@yahoo.com thanks!

LXiSebring: What year??????


Rafael writes

i have a 1997 chrysler sebring coupe.. my name is rafael from carson california... also do u guys know wher i can get coilovers for my sebring??? websites or numbers will help thankz i hope i get accepted

LXiSebring: YOU are IN!!!


Scott Irmeger writes

Hello Sebring Page Owner,

I am the owner of a 1997 Sebring LXI and am an electronic engineer as well. My dash and door speakers went out and I had to replace the front door 6 1/2 inch. The Infinity 150 Watt 6 speaker system has a crossover built into the amp. This means that the door speakers only get low frequencies, below the voice level. You can replace these door speakers with a full range but the midrange and tweeter will not work since it is only receiving low frequencies due to the crossover in the amp.

The other problem is the 2 inch dash mounted speakers look like tweeters but are actually small full range speakers. If you notice the magnet on the back, you will know it is not a tweeter. These dash mount speakers carry the voice, guitar, and high ends that the door speakers do not provide. This provides the excellent separation that you hear when you have the right speaker set up. My dash mounts are bad and the suspension for the cones have dried and cracked. NOBODY makes a speaker of this type that I know of. I checked here in Atlanta and the only option is the dealer if they still carry them. You could possibly take the 2 inch dash speakers to a repair shop to see if they can fix the suspension on the cone. If you just replace these with tweeters, you'll only get high end and no voice or mid range. So if you have stayed with the stock system and replaced the door and dash mounts, it may not sound the same as it was designed.

That was my experience on my car stereo and I thought I'd just pass it along for anyone who's is into car stereos. I am sticking with the stock deck and amp and just replaced the door 6.5s with Alpine SPS 170A and they sound great. Now I need to get the dash mounts rebuilt.

LXiSebring: Those dash speakers are TOUGH to come by--not even Crutchfield carries asuitable replacement!


Joe Petersonwrites

Hello. I think your page is great and I'd like to join. My car is a 1997 Sebring LXi. I like it a lot, but like any car it develops random nagging problems as it ages. The problem I'm trying to track down right now is a whining noise that increases in pitch as the car increases in speed. My first thought was that it is tire noise or wheel bearing problem but I haven't pinned it down yet. If it is a wheel bearing problem do you know if BCA Bearings 513138 are a fit for this car? I was searching around for parts and they came up as a match. They look very similar to the hub assembly already on the car but I have no way of knowing for sure. Thanks much!

LXiSebring: Eric might have some ideas on this


Bill writes

Hello, My name is Bill and I just came across your website. Cool! I just bought a 1996 Sebring Lxi in Mint condition and loaded. I really like the car..so far. Hope there's not too many horror stories out there. I was hoping maybe you could direct me to a link that has the codes for reprogramming the remotes. I just bought 2 remotes off eBay, and I'm not sure where to get the tech info. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks again for a cool site. Any questions, please feel free to email me.

LXiSebring:I THINK those codes are in the Owner's manual, available as a regular part item at your Chrysler parts dept.


Jim writes

Hi. My name is Jim. Here is an interesting question. First of all, I just bought a 1999 Seabring Coupe - Love the car! I have had the car since 3/1 and have already had several problems. I used to own a 1985 Buick Regal, and a 1994 Mercury Cougar ... of course those cars were horrible on brakes, if I had known that the Sebring was horrible on brakes BEFORE I bought it, I probably wouldn't have bought it. In any case, since I've had the car I had to:

1. Replace the Front Bumper (as it is too low and I hit a parking bump and it split)
2. Replace 2 motor mounts.
3. Replace 2 speakers
4. Replace front grill
..and of course today....MY BOTTOM PLASTIC DOOR GUARDS FELL OFF!!

I noticed that the door guards are attached by 5 small white plastic clips (of course 4 of them are broken). Is there any way to fix this problem perminatly??! I have a feeling that if I take it back to the dealer, they are just going to get more clips and it's going to break again! Please help!!! I love the car, but it's getting to be such a hassle. If this is 2 months, whats coming in the next 5 years!!???

LXiSebring: I had a number of problems with my '95 in it's first couple of years, but interestingly, its been nearly trouble-free in the last 4 or 5 years. You MIGHT not have any other major problems. Many items you list are things Sebring owners commonly fix. Loose cladding etc. After one cladding repair right after I got my new '95 the cladding has stayed put. Watch those concrete parking bumpers--they are terror on front Fascias.


Tivcanin writes Is this there an option with chrysler with regard to wheel size? I have 17" tire dealers say 16" is listed in there vendor recommendation column as an option???

LXiSebring: Depends on year. 95-96 had 16 inch on LXi. 97 and on used 17 inch. The 16 inch wheel uses a different, slightly wider 205 tire, so the outside diameter of the wheel remains constant. But I believe you can use the 16 inch rim on the madels that used 17 inch OEM wheels, if you get the correct 205 tire for the wheel. Make sure you keep the correct outside wheel diameter or you will mess up things like your speedometer and odometer.


curlie writes

what type of gas does the chrysler sebring usually take. Is it the premium or can you just put in regular old gas like any other car? I have been looking into them as a first car choice and haven't been able to come accross the type of fas it takes. An answer to my simple question would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again

LXiSebring:I'm sure I speak for Eric in recommending that for either engine simple use 87 octane gas. Eric claims the car may not actually run as well with higher-octane gas.


Froggy

Got any tips on fixing a leaky sunroof on a '98 sebring?

One of the good aftermarket sunroof places might have better ideas than the dealership. They work with these constantly and know exactly how the sealing strips need to be.


Handrigan writes

I have a 98 Chrysler Seebring and want to jazz it up a little to make it look more sporty. My first step I think it is to buy some new rims. Where would you sugest i look? If my rim size is 17", will any 17" rims fit my car or do they have to be chrysler rims? Do they even have to be 17" rims that i purchase? Let me know what you think. thanks

LXiSebring: Most 17 inch rims would work, but check with whoever you buy htem from for sure. Whaty's important is the diameter of the wheel and tire combination, not the rim size. A 16 inch rim calls for a different tire size to maintain the same overall diameter. Check the Tire Rack for rims--ads in any Car & Driver magazine. They probably have a web site too.


NON1TA writes

how many cat's does a 1998 sebring have?.,....catalytic's

LXiSebring: I think just 1 but Eric might know for sure.


Spongah writes

Hey guys! I've been reading your site all day doing little things to my car. I recently bought a Dark Green 95 Sebring LXi with 79k miles for $4400... She's very clean, tinted out, runs great, but theres a buncha little things that need straitening out. I've already had the alarm problem, so I put some tape on the hood switch on the FRONT LEFT of the engine (right?). I also learned how to work my alarm by reading through the manual. My check engine light comes on after driving for a little while, so I'm interested in whats going on there too. I tried the ignition on-off-on-off-on thing, but couldn't get the check engine light to flash me a code, is there something I'm doing wrong?

Okay, the MAIN thing I guess that I want to know about is my shifter. I havn't seen this anywhere on your site yet. It's the automatic transmission. This could be dangerous... The shifter just slides through the gears like a hot knife through butter. I dont have to push the break to get it out of park, I dont have to push the top button to shift between ANY of the gears.. I'm really scared I'll bump it while I'm driving some day, and it'll land in park, or reverse.. Is there something simple I can do to fix that ya think?

Thats my main problem except the fact that my rotors feel warped, and I scrape up my front valance every time I park hehe. Okay thanks a lot for your kick ass website guys! I hope you get around to reading my letter, I'll send ya pics of my car if you want. :D

Eric says... .....The shifter gate has to be toasted in the linkage. The metal gate with the roller under the shifter cover does nothing, yours is more internal. I'd guess that the transmission "park" pin is busted or was removed. Everything else sounds normal. The engine light thing works, try again.....


YULA writes

I have a 96 sebring which I am restoring after a fender bender I am looking for a front bumper cover for it i think I found every thing else do you have any info on where I can find one.

LXiSebring: Local auto recyclers (junk yards) may be able to locate you one.


Andy writes

I need some advise on tire/wheel size/lowering upgrades!!

LXiSebring:The guys at www.asog.net keep good track of that!


John Kaminski writes

I was installing a radio and the power lead from the battery touched the computer in the middle console and now the car will not start.. I have checked the large fuses inder the hood and under the dash and nothing works. I have also checked the battery and it is also good.. Can you assist..

LXiSebring: Dunno--you may have fried the computer, or unprogrammed it. Either way, it's a dealer fix.


Page Mcginnis writes

hello i'm a 97 lxi owner, and would like to be a part of your internet "club." how do i access your archives? your website mentions a few topics i would be interested in, but does not provide a link. thanks for your help

LXiSebring: THe links to the archives are at the top of this page.


Craig writes

I have lost my night time driving instrument cluster lights on my 1997 Sebring LXi. When I turn my headlights on, I get 12 volts at the dimmer switch, but no cluster lights. I checked all fuses under the dash and in the engine compartment, all good. Are there any more fuses that are hidden or maybe a cluster relay?

Eric says... I bet its a plug. I'd unplug and replug everything first.

Craig responds: You were correct Eric! I did what you suggested and my lights are back on.

LXiSebring:Thats why we like Eric--he is usually right with his sensible solutions.


Gina writes

I have a 1998 Sebring LXi, Can you tell me where I can check for recalls? Both my door handles fell off. Do I have the right site? Thank you.

Eric says .......nhtsa.dot.gov & alldata.com...........


Don Freeman writes

I have a 1997 Sebring LXI Coupe. Over the last 4 years, I have had 5 Oxygen Sensor replaced due to CHK Engine Light coming on. I felt this was a high rate of failures for this sensor.I spoke to the dealer & he agreed that it was unusual to have this many failures, but that there are four O2 Sensors on the car & if if each one failed at different times it could account for the majority of the failures. I just got another ChK Engine Light indicating O2 Sensor failure. This will be the 6th time. What is the normal failure rate for O2 Sensors & what could cause the sensors to keep failing at this high rate? I'm hesitant to keep replacing O2 Sensors.Would like to find the root cause.

Eric says....Yeah, I have 130,000 on all my originals. Could be a wire harness probelm, or an emissions problem.


Lis writes

I have a 1995 Chrysler Sebring LX with a 4cyl. I bought this car in about January... and it has been running good, but I've had a few problems... stupid problems. The SRS has been on since I bought it along with... the ABS light... but also the front bumper was knocked off on the bottem, and the back was crack on the passenger side. I thought all of this was fixable and would be a fun project. Well now I had a little accident the other day and my car won't start. I was about to rear end someone and decided to turn instead of totalling my car, when I did this I pulled into a driveway. I set there for a moment and decided to BACK UP and turn around. As I back up I hit something. I got out of my car and looked at the back... MY WHOLE BACKEND WAS ABOUT ATLEAST A FOOT OFF OF THE GROUND!!! I had gotten up on top of a rock! I had someone pull me off the rockand I tried to start my car, but it wouldn't. I have not got it checked yet... because I don't know how much money it will be. It has been said I wrinckled my fuel line? I guess. It is directly underneath the trunk close to where the spare is. I wanted to know where to get pictures of an underbody of a 95 sebring so I can see what I did to my car. Thank you,Lis

LXiSebring: Goodness--they MIGHT be in the chassis service manual. But you really need to have a dealer put it up on a lift to see if everyuthing is in order.

fasterthanyou writes System
Head Unit: Alpine CDA-7995
Fronts: Alpine SPR-176A Comp.
Rear: Alpine SPR-176A Comp.
Subs: 3 x Alpine SWR-1241D
4ch Amp: Alpine MRV-F307
Sub Amp: Alpine MRV-T757
Wires: All Monster Cable
Cap: RokFos .5f lol
Battery: Redtop

System Upgrades Needed/Wanted
Head Unit: Alpine IVAD-900
F Kicks: Alpine SPR-176A
Subs: Alpine SWR-1221D x 4(possible)
Sub Amps: Alpine MRDM-1000 x 2
4ch Amp: Alpine MRVF-540 Cap: AudioBahn 10farad x 2
Monitors: Undecided

Other upgrades will be:
Completely taking apart inside and laying in dynamat.
Rebuilding entire trunk area(in progress).
Getting a TC Spoiler body kit
. Putting some 19's on it.
And a supercharger once I can afford the 3k price.

Photo:


Jimmy K writes

Featured is a photo of my 2000 Chrysler Sebring that I bought in Duncanville Texas in October. It was in exceptionally excellent shape, and had only 9800 miles on the odometer, so, I had to have it. Plus, Chrysler had just started the 8/80 mile certified used car program, so it was even a better buy. Considering the price of cars now, I think I paid a little more than it was actually worth, ($14,900) but I think I got a good buy anyway!


Jim Christensen writes

Hi David-

A few weeks ago my wife and I were driving home from a movie and an old Satellite Sebring went by us and my wife asked me what a 'sebring' was(she knows what a satellite is). Was it some kind of animal, a kind of adjective or some kind of mythical beast? In other words, where did Chrysler get this word? Do you have any idea? We can't find it in any dictionary, or anywhere on the internet.

Thanks- Jim Christensen

LXiSebring: In the 1960s, there was a PLYMOUTH Satellite, but I don't ever recall it referred to as a Satellite Sebring. THe Chrysler Sebring was named either after (1) The famous Sebring auto race (where is that run? Remember the Chevelle Laguna?) or Sebring Florida (Auto makers love to name cars after warnm spots in either Florida or California for some reason ie Biscayne, Del Ray etc)


Knottie72 writes

we have had only two problems with my 97 sebring the first one started when it had about 76,000 miles on it and the temp gauge says it is getting hot we have taken it to the shop and they replaced the cooling sensor and the hoses and then the thermostat someone has suggested that the fan may not be coming on when it started to get hot and is being delayed by something have you ever herd of this can you give any advise thank you kristen

LXiSebring:Could be a problem with the fan relay, but whenever I hear of temp problems like this that don't lendthemselves to inexpensive fixes I tend to think of leaky head gasket, unfortunately not cheap to fix.


GM Smith writes

I have a '96 LX. I want to replace the headlight bulbs and cannot firgure out how to release the wire retaining clip. Is there a trick I don't know about? And of course I am looking for an after-market or cheap source for a new front cowling (isn't everyone?) Thank You

LXiSebring: I dunno but someone reading this might.


Marshall Sharp writes

Wow.. Nice website.. I'm gonna try replacing the O2 sensors and EGR valve now. I think my story is unique in the fact that my 97 LX is far past it's prime. I purchased the car with 122k miles almost a year ago and it now has 135k.. I was proud of the fact of putting 1000 miles on it in one week. I'm trying to pass my friend with a 91 Toyota Tercel with 140k.. No serious problems have arose. The factory tape player was screwed because some jerk off jammed a tape in there. Replaced with wonderful aftermarket cd-player and factory speakers are in the process of being replaced with KAPPA infinity's. The engine has burnt oil since I purchased it, but this hasn't been anything serious. The car does get bragging rights to the fact that it is not garage kept,and goes through Indiana weather day in and day out.

The worst thing I've run into is a squeaky belt that will not stop. Tightened and replaced, now having same problems.. I believe this is due to weather changes and driving wear (yes I redline it everyday).. 2.0 DOHC.. I have to, to keep up with anything. I can tell the brakes are going, but I am quite certain that the owner before me did NOT take care of this car, so there is no telling what sort of crap he/she put it through. It is in much better condition now than when I purchased it. I've had quite a few other small mishaps that everyone else has talked about but they RARELY occur, and when they do I find my own solution.. Helpful hint don't make the dealership your first stop.. Find someone, anyone that you can trust and get advice..

One potentially serious problem, the engine seems to `stutter' when starting from complete rest going into full acceleration. It also makes a loud pop sort of noise sometimes when finally kicking in. I'm 17 and can't really afford any sort of jerk-off, waste of time dealership guys, but eventually I'll try to get it fixed.

Oh and one last detail.. I had an accident that wasn't my fault, low speed (25-30) so it screwed the front of my car but didn't touch the engine, so the entire front end is as good as new, all for free (thank you bad drivers)...

And I must share this.. It is to the best of my knowledge that the absolute top speed of the 2.0 automatic is 112mph.. ;)


Larry writes

I'm stumped by this car. My wife has a 96 Sebring, she loves it, the first NEW car she owned. We had a baby about a year ago and had to buy a 4 door ( Chrysler Concorde ) so that she could easily get the baby into his car seat in back. So we parked the Sebring. I guess that was a big mistake, because since bringing it back to life with a new battery, we've had a host of mystery problems, most of which I have been able to fix. The one that I can't figure out is the ABS light. There was NOTHING wrong with the car when we parked it, what could happen to the ABS system from lack of use? I changed all the brakes and rotors, reset the computer, checked fluid level, but still have the light! I have checked the ABS fuse - that's not it. The light comes on in prestart ( diagnostic ) and then goes out like it should, start the car and it still stays out, but as soon as you get the car moving and step on the brake - there it is. And it won't go out until you shut the car off.

Do you have any ideas?

Eric says ... ...Does the system still work? I mean with the light on? If it does it has to be a sensor and only the dealer will be able to tell whats tripping the light


John writes

Over the last 2 years I've had either 5 starters or some starter fuse replaced. Symptoms all the same - most electical works except engine and radio. I've had to have it towed each time. Have you heard of this ? Dealership finally replaced most wiring that was easy to do from ignition switch to starter and also put in a circuit breaker that resets when overloaded. Not a confidence builder.

Eric says... .....Yes, I have heard of this before. Contact the NHTSA and see if others have the same problem.....


Kymberlee writes

Hi there. I saw your sebring web site. Dont know if you are still running it, but hoping you can help me. I have a 95 Sebring LXi. My friggin body moulding thingie along the drivers side of my door flew off (YES!! FLEW OFF) on the highway yesterday. I saw something about this on your site and wondered if it is , in deed, a problem, and if you know of any matters resolved in Canada regarding this. I didnt even know that it had happened (I thought that wretched sound was a chunk of ice falling from my car). We just had an ice storm here in Toronto. When I realized the moulding was off my car, I freaked out and went all the way back to search for it. Couldnt find it. And now my beloved sebring is ugly and scraper like without the piece. Freaking out. Help!! Kymberlee

LXiSebring: The cost of this repair MIGHT be covered by your comprehensive auto insurance, like any other road hazard.


Rick writes

I don't have the manual and am wondering how to program the three buttons for the garage and gate openers that are on the sun visor. Thanks Rick

LXiSebring: Why not order an owners manual at the parts dept of your dealership.

Eric says.......Someone here should know. I don't have that on mine. You can ask where you bought it I would think. You can order a manual at Chrysler.com....



Keith Sawyer writes

Thanks for listing the PCM codes, I appreciate that. I'm eventually going to pick up a service manual, we'll see if the off-on-off-on-off works on a 2003. My vehicle is a black 2003 Sebring LXi 5 speed, has the leather, sunroof and cassette options. Only 2800 miles on it so far ... if you desire any more info let me know!


Gary Conn writes

I'm having a '97 Sebring body module problem fixed on my car. The guy that's fixing it told me he talked to a dealership here in Nashville and that they had fixed seven of them last week. It costs over 1,000.00 to repair this. Have you heard of this problem?

LXiSebring: No I havent. Not even sure what a body module is.


britton markstrom writes

Hey, my name is Britton and i own a 99 sebring lxi and i have a question about the results of your K&N air filter. I am thinking about purchasing one for my car, but i am not sure about the results. If you could tell me if it helped the car or not i would greatly appreciate it. Or maybe you could tell me of a better inexpensive way to gain horsepower or mileage for the car. Thank you. Britton Markstrom

LXiSebring: The guys on www.asog.net and Eric seem to think these are a good upgrade, with no downside,..I think.


ellison5 writes

I have a 97 chrysler sebring and was wondering where can I find the trunk measurements for my car. I want to put some subs back there and need the measurements for the box. thanks

I havent seen these--why not just measure it yourself and do calculations on spreadsheet. Are you after volume? The stereo installation people might have a book with this info.


LARRY writes

can u tell me if there has been any problems with the transmission in the 1995 sebring LXi. I have just lost my transmission.there has been a series of things that went wrong with my car.I do believe that it is a lemon.please reply.

LXiSebring: A few of the transmissions in the 95 and 96 models had problems, but they were relatively rare. You might want to checjh the 95 and 96 archives searching on "transmission" for more detailed info


Joan writes

I have been a die-hard Camaro fan and am in the market for a new car. Obviously, I want to purchase something similar to the Camaro. I think the Sebring may come closest. What do you think? I recently read that the Sebring Coupe is very similar to the Mitsubishi Eclipse. Is that true? If you could give me any helpful hints to consider as I make my purchase, I would appreciate i.

LXiSebring: Having ownd (and still owning my first '69) Camaros, I would say:

1. The Sebring is a much more modern design than the late-generation Camaro. A big difference is Front Wheel Drive, which means it goes a lot better in ice and snow. The Sebring does not go anywhere near as Fast as the Camaro in a straight line, UNlike the Camaro, you can comfortably ride two adults in the rear seat of a Sebring. If you need to go very fast in a straight line, Sebring is not your car. But otherwise, Sebrings ride and handle very well. And you can actually carry stuff in the trunk. I fold down the rear seat in mine and carry 8 ft lengths of lumber in it.


Myia writes

Hello, I was very interested to find this site. I have had a continuing problem with my car. Every couple of weeks my check engine light comes on, then goes off in a week or two. I always make sure I tighten the gas cap tight so that could not be the problem either. I have brought the car to the dealer and they said it was the O2 sensor. The only thing about this was that if that was the problem then the check engine light would not have gone off after they returned the car to me, because that fault code can only be erased by resetting it, which they said they did not do. I then took the car to a mechanic when the light came on again and he plugged it in and there was not even a fault code it the computer, but the check engine light was on yet again. If you have any ideas what it could be please enlighten me, I am at a complete loss.

Thank you, Myia

Eric says ......There are two types of Codes, hard codes and soft codes. An engine light means that there is a hard code which it sees as a repetative problem. After 50 some key cycles it will go out. You need to see a Chrysler dealer that can check it with the proper scan tool.....


Anja writes

A few weeks ago I bought a 2002 Chrysler Sebring Lxi coupe, 2 door, black. The car had a markup of $3000 with a total price of $30,000. I thought I got a good deal when I negotiated the price down to $23,500. Later I found out that this is the actual MSRP! I also found out that Markups are a scam....too late!

This is not all....I complained about a dent, which they promised to remove. While the car was in the shop I was told that it need to be repainted! A brandnew car? They kept the car for a whole nine days! When I picked it up, it looked worse than when I originally saw it! It was dirty and had lots of scratch marks that looked like somebody used a rough brush on the paint! I was told that this will come out once the clear coat is applied......

I ordered a second key. They forgot to order it. Finally I got it in the mail. However, the engine dies when I turn on the ignition with that key. I assume that it needs to be programmed....nobody told me....

My alarm doesn't work.....it goes off for no reason and then can't be turned of for minutes! I don't even dare to use it anymore!

I read that the 2002 model comes with a standard 4 disc changer in the dash board.....I only have a regular CD-Player. Did they rip me off here too?

I wonder if you know about this. Every morning when I drive to work I hear a weird noise that's coming from the engine. It sounds like a lot of water bubbling through some tubes. I wonder if that's normal?

Do I have any changes contacting Chrysler directly?

Your site is great!

Thanks Anja


Pandaeli writes

I have a 95 sebring LXi with a 2.5 V6 engine. I want to now how much horse power it has and if it is worth keeping it. I enjoy driving my sebring and I want to keep it but, is it going to give me problems later on. It has 97,250 miles right now. would you please give my your opinion.

LXiSebring: 163 hp. When a car starts approaching 100,000 the odds increase that you will have major mechanical problems of some sort, but not always. The Sebring V6 actually is pretty durable, and might go for a long time yet. If I were you I would just keep it and run it. For its current value, what are you gonna find thats better? If something ultimately breaks then you can decide whether its worth repairing, but if it ain't broke, just keep going...


mj writes

I am trying to find performance parts for the 2.7L in my 2003.. Can you point me towards chips, intakes, exhaust, etc? I am not even sure where to look. Thank You

LXiSebring: There isnt much out there because changing out a lot of this stuff affects emissions or the car computer or both. THere are actually more performance parts for the 4 cyl.


Dragon writes

What is the 1/4 mile time on the 1997 sebring LXi, convertible and hatchback. please Write back

LXiSebring: THe Sebring coupe is DEFINITELY not a hatchback. It has a trunk like any other car. Numbers in the mid 16 second range stick in my mind


Neil writes

The "service engine soon" light on our 1999 Sebring came on last night and at the same time the speedometer and odometer stopped working, are the faults connected or is it just a coincidence? Do I have to take the car to a Dealer or can I fix it myself? The Sebring has only done 12,700 miles and had an oil change just under 3,000 miles ago. Look forward to your reply.

Eric says.... What type of Sebring ? Its probably a speed sensor


T.J. Michel writes

I own an 01 Stratus Coupe and the rear wheel bearings are bad already (35,000mi). Do you know of any documentation that shows Chrysler (Mitsu) is having any issues with wheel bearings? Thanks for your time -

Eric says ...They have been a problem since 95' look at NHTSA or Alldata


Tom writes

Today I happened to stumble upon your site through a search on Google. I was very impressed! I was reading through some of the letters that you received from other members.

What struck my curiosity was the owner of a Sebring that was having problems with flat tires (no bead) on factory Goodyear 17" tires. This past winter, I have had similar problems with flat tires (Goodyear 215/50/17). I was constantly refilling the air, although it was only once per tire. I wrote it off to the possibility that our sub-zero temps that we had for nearly two weeks sucked the air out of them (they weren't completely flat). I recently purchased 16" steel wheels for the remainder of winter since my last bout with a flat tire was actually caused by a pothole obliterating the tire and the wheel (unfortunately!). I believe that it was Eric that suggested to go to 16" wheels to have "less problems," but he didn't really elaborate as to why. I am currently looking to replace two of my factory aluminum 17" wheels, but if there is good reason why I should be looking into 16" wheels instead, I would like your opinion before I continue shopping around.

Thank you for a fantastic website and your time to read my inquiry. I would appreciate it if I could join your club. My vehicle is a 1997 Chrysler Sebring LXi purchased in 2001 with only 29,000 miles on it. I've had no major mechanical problems with the car, and I absolutely love the ride!


Kelvin Wilbore writes

I have been searching the internet for a similar complaint to mine - 2001 Chrysler Sebring.

When I take off, I hear an audible "klunk" sound - which Chrysler has identified as a "design feature" (to use their words) of the transmission for this car. I did not accept this explanation and initiated an arbitration process with them. The outcome was the arbitrator ordered Chrysler to fix the problem as he did not accept that this was a noise in every Chrysler of this model. To date they have not been able to fix this problem and I was wondering if you have ever come across this issue.

I am wondering if I should insist on them replacing the transmission.

I have a detailed explanation from Chrysler of what they believe is the problem.

Eric says... .....Sure, Our 2002 Stratus does this. Seems as if the mounts are bad or something. Look at alldata.com and nhtsa.com for customer reported problems. If your vehicle has been in 3 times for the same unresolved problem, It's a lemon, at least in the state of PA. Try Lemonlaw.com I have written to the chairman of DiamlerChrysler as to my problems and have yet to get any response. It has been a month. The car was bought 9/02. My next step is to seek legal assistance.These law firms have a policy that says "If we loose we dont get paid" "If we win the manufacturer pays our fees" My family and friends currently own 20+ Chrysler vehicles so they stand to loose lots of bussiness either way.....


Steve Waycott writes

Hi there. Great site you have here, although I haven't seen any new listings so I hope it's still active.

I'm having problems with the sound system in my 2001 Coupe LXi. The factory amp blew up on me a few weeks ago (taking the head unit and a couple speakers with it) and after the dealer replaced the head unit I was playing some music when smoke started pouring out of what looks like a speaker grille in the center of the dash (on top of the temperature/compass display). I had assumed ever since I bought the car that this grille was indeed for a speaker mounted in the center of the console, though I never put my ear to it to be sure (it's not really very accessible).

All the literature I've been able to find states that the "premium sound system" in the LXi is an Infinity 7-speaker system. I count six speakers elsewhere in the car -- two in the doors, two in the back, and two tweeters on the upper front door frames -- so I assumed this grille in the center was speaker number seven. Anyway, when I brought the car back to the dealer and told them about the smoke pouring from the center speaker (the smoke stopped as soon as I turned the stereo off, by the way), they looked at it and informed me that there is no center speaker in my car. They had checked their manuals and there was no mention of a seventh speaker anywhere. I asked what the grille was for and was told that it is a vent.

I'm wondering why no air ever comes out of this supposed "vent"? No sound is coming out of it now, either (may have something to do with all that smoke!). The dealer insists there is no seventh speaker in my car, but I am simply not convinced. I'm tired of arguing with them, and they are simply unwilling to pursue it further. So my question, after this long-winded rant, is this: Is there a seventh, smaller speaker mounted top mid-dash in the 2001 Sebring Coupe LXi with the "7-speaker premium Infinity" sound system? Or am I completely out to lunch?

Thanks so much.

LXiSebring: Good question--can you take a strong flashlight and peer thru the grille? Otherwise you will have to pull off the grille. Air vents usually look like air vents not like speaker grilles, and have some provisin for adjusting.


Robby and Mandy write

Hey I was wondering if you could help me? I have a 96 Sebring Hardtop And I have been looking for some euro lights for it. It seems they are hard to find can you help me?

LXiSebring: THe guys at www.asog.net keep closer track of aftermarket parts than I do.


Bobbie writes

I am just trying to find out why, my 2000 LXi with 19,000 miles has had to have two tires replaced due to the bead being gone (I have had approx. 10 flats). Now two days after replacing the second tire (it was a factory original), I had another flat, and the rims is sooooo bent. I do not have teenage boys driving over curbs (as the last AAA driver suggested). I do not go over, bang into curbs as the low front end gets yucked up and I know that the rims would get bent. What recourse, who can I contact - I know about the class action suit. I bought the car used w/3000 miles on it 2 years ago. I never would have bought a car with low profile tires and I appreciate you letting me vent. I would love any information you can give me. Thanks! Bobbie Desprat

Eric says... Buy 205/55/16 and your problems will go away. You can aslo try contacting the NHTSA.


Josep writes

My name is Josep, I live in Santa Fe NM. I own a 1997 LXI, I am currently looking to purchase a body kit, but Ive had no luck! Could you please tell me where I could find the kit? Sean May writes

LXiSEbring:The guys at www.asog.net keep track of these.


Dabo writes

To: LXiSebring Hey man how can i get the inside of my car outfitted with a wood package like a wood sterring wheel where could i go to find out about that thanks

LXiSebring: THe guys at www.asog.net would keep track of those.


Diane writes

I've been visiting the Sebring Owners website and have a 2001 LXi coupe. I recently went in for regular servicing at a Chrysler dealership and the guy mentioned how he would like to order a new horn for my car. I'm assuming it's because it's a Mitsubishi horn and not a Chrysler horn which make significantly different sounds. Are there any problems with switching horns or should I bother?

Eric says .... Horns are horns, If it works I wouldnt bother replacing it.


Thanks for letting me join the "club". Again my car is a white 1998 Sebring Lxi with leather interior, sun roof,premium sound,etc... My question has to do with the fuel pump, recently I have been having a intermittent problem, when I turn the key to the "on" position,the fuel pump sometimes turns on as it is suppose to and sometimes it doesn't, when it does not, the car will not start, has anyone else experienced this problem? I have searched the site and I have noticed that a suggestion is to replace the battery,I have checked mine out and it is fine can anyone help me with this problem ? I love my car since I got it 2 years ago with 32,000 miles on it and I have not had any of the problems that seem to be common to most other Sebring's


Gustavo writes

hi!! i have a sebring coupe 1996 lx / 4 cyl. / and i just can`t find racing parts for the car. i would like to be part of your club, at this moment i do not have a recent picture of the car ,but, as soon as i have one i`ll send you one, i got it equiped with 18" wheells, strobe lights, a neon kit under the car , rockfordfosgate sound system, and as you can see they are universal parts , because all the shops that sell racing parts do not even have intake systems and if they have them are just for the convertible, please send me some web addresses where i can buy racing parts (intake,chips,and stuff like that)please help me i will appreciate it , thank u !!!! ...

LXiSebring:The guys at www.asog.net keep track of performance parts betterthan I do.


Ziggy writes

1998 Sebring LXi
Radiant red, tan leather interior, tinted windows, 17" Konig Rush wheel w/ sumitomo HTR+ tires Soon to come: AEM airintake w/bypass, TC2 bodykit, new flowmaster exhaust Currently a member of ASOG / ASEC


Connie writes

My name is Connie and I have a "95 Sebring Coupe......over the weekend my dash lights went out and my husband checked the fuses. He changed the fuse ... although he did notice that the fuse seemed fine...didn't look to be blown. He went ahead and changed it anyways....and after doing so ....my dash lights started working again.

I had left him with the car to run into a store....when I returned to the car....it was sounding an alarm (horn and flashing headlights). That was very strange to me....I did not know that the car even had an alarm when I purchased it in October. The dealership did not mention it nor did they give me the keyless remote to control the alarm...they gave me a remote for the doors only. My husband said that when he opened the car door to get out to check the fuses the alarm sounded.

The alarm sounded for about 1 minute then stopped...which is a good thing because we did not know how to stop it or control it. This all occurred on Sat night and on Sunday I had no problem with the dash lights or alarm. Then when I was leaving work on Tuesday morning my dash lights were out once again. I drove home without them....but the entire way I was afraid that the alarm would sound again or that I could lose some other function on my car.

My question to you is ......does it sound like I have an electrical problem ....some kind of short? Why did the lights start working again after the fuse was changed? Then within days the dash lights are not working again. Where do I go from here? Is this going to be very expensive for me to repair? Are you aware of any type of recalls or complaints for this type of problem. I have been searching websites for this topic and have been unsuccessful so far. Thank you very much for your time.

LXiSebring: You have a short somewhere that is blowing the fuse. You need to have that diagnosed at a dealer--shade tree mechanics cant do that. You can shut the alarm off by putting the key in the door and turning it. USUALLY on a 95, the underhood alarm switch isnt being held down securely by the hood. I think this problem is unrelated to the dash light problem, except that you might have had the hood open when you were messing around with the fuses.


Mike writes

I bought a 1998 sebring lxi -- but no manual -- is there anywhere on the net i can download one for free?

LXiSebring: The owners manual can be ordered thru the parts dept at your Chrysler dealers.


Rick Gawlinski writes

I'm thinking about joining the club & got a quick question for ya ! I notice that on the 97 sebring lxi there is not an emblem on the 10 spoke rim center cap. Can the small cap be changed out to a newer version such as the 98, 99, etc. that do have the emblem on them ? If so, what is the correct part number for this item ? Thanks! P.S. Have not purchased a 97 sebring lxi but am currently working on a deal. R.G.

LXiSebring: I dunno, but the guy at your Chrysler parts counter probably would.


Klockes writes

Hello, i have emailed you before. I have a 1995 Sebring LXi. I have 205/55/R16 tires on right now. I want to get a 17in rims but will they work without rubbing on my sidewalls and etc. I know i need different tires. Thanx again....

Eric says...In short yes, The newer ones had 17's but they are nothing but problems and cost much more. Some people have gone from 17's to 16's


Rita writes

I love my car more than life itself! It is black and beautiful..all leather, sunroof the works. Now my question is, do you have any clue where I can get the wiring diagram for it? I really appreciate your help, and the site is great!

Eric says... Chrysler.com order a service manual, or try ebay for one. You will need the electrical manual.


Melinda writes

I have a 1999 black Lxi, leather, etc... and I love it. Two questions though.

One: whenever I put my car into gear, there is a "creaking" noise coming from the transmission. It has always done this, is it something to be alarmed about?

Two: my car was demolished by a hail storm about 2 years ago, the sunroof was replaced. Now, to pop my sunroof, I must push the switch forward, to open it, I push the switch backward. When I first got it, I could push backward once to pop it and backward again to open it. The unintended side-effect is that when closing it will often pop up instead. The dealer told me there is a dial near the switch that they did not know how to set. Can you help me with these settings? I have taken it to the dealer several times since...no luck. HELP!!

Eric says...Your transmission is fine, Dealer work should be warranted, make sure they know there are laws that protect you. Get ALL paperwork. Don't forget to be nice.


Jeff writes

Hello,

On my way to work this morn my 1995 LXi temp gauge was going up and down, showing that the engine was overheating then cooling to regular temp. Once into the office I was trying to find a solution or common problem on the internet. This is when I came across your site.

This problem I am having is the first time this has happened so I wouldn't call it a common problem yet, but I think there is a good chance that it is the heater coil.

The ongoing common problem I have had with my 1995 LXi is that the ABS brake light stays on most of the time. I have had this checked out by several mechanics who I trust and they have all said that my brakes are working fine, it just seems to be a malfunction in the light.

If you have heard of any quick fix to this problem please let me know.

I have found your site very informative and useful in trying to figure out the problem I am currently having. Thanks for keeping this site up and good job.

Cheers,

Eric says...Your ABS will self test when you start the car and go in reverse while lightly applying the brakes. The temp fluctuation is either the temp sender, or a head gasket.


Gary writes

Hi Eric. I recently replaced the transmission control module in my 98 LXI (V6, Automatic) in an effort to clear a P1968 code and when I reconnected the battery the odometer quit working. Could it be a defective module?

Eric says... Hmm...speed sensor has something to do with transmission. Get it scanned at a Chrysler Dealer.


Sean May writes

Hi I have a 1998 Sebring LXi and I would like to join your club, I have been looking for something like this for about 2 years and just recently stumbled across your site.

LXiSebring: You are in!!! Thank you for your letter!!


Mike writes

Juyst read alot of the 1998 lxi post that people made. I'm about to purchase a 1998 lxi sebring fully loaded -- sunroof, Black with gray leather interior. But it has 150,000km --- is it still worth it, any troubles after this. I'm in canada so not sure on the miles, i think its about 93,205. Any info on this would be great. Thanks in Adavnce mike

LXiSebring: Condition matters more than age--I'd look for a lower milage vehicle even if it cost more--Verhicles with 100,000 + miles on them set you up for $2500 repair bills. Better to spend the extra $2500 on a vehicle with fewer miles.


Trish writes

Hi, I own a 1995 sebring Lxi coupe. The only problem I have with it other than it was neglected by it's previous owner, is it has a hard time starting in damp weather.(if it start's at all) I've had to do 3 oil changes due to this problem, as well as find alternative way's to work. Do you have any suggestions? They would be greatly appreciated. Other than this problem I love my car.

LXiSebring: Have you tried a new battery? Does the car turn over when it doesnt start?

Eric says...The LXI has a distributor, I would start there. Replace wires and plugs just because.


LXiSebring: send me a link to your car pic


Lee writes

why did chrysler change the body style on the sebring coupe? i have a 99 red lxi and love the body style. however i doubt i will buy another one simply because i hate the new style. it does not even look like a sebring. the style on the convert. are basically the same.

I'm sorta partial to hte earlier style too..in fact, I like the 95-96 models the best, before they added the ribbed cladding. But then, that's what I own. Car makers figure if they dont change the design they wont sell new cars. The earliest Sebrings still look very contemporary and sexy even tho they are gouing on 8 years old. Few other cars can say that! Melinda writes

I have a black 1999 Sebring LXi coupe. I have driven it for over 3 years now and I LOVE IT!!!!

LXiSebring: Great to hear that!!!


Becky writes

hi. I own a 2000 sebring. I have had no problems so far. but I am going to install a remote starter and keyless entry. I have heard that if you put remote start on newer cars, it messes up the electrical units. have you heard of any problems with installing remote start on sebrings? please let me know. i am suppose to get it installed 3/1. thank you

LXiSebring: I'm checking on this with Eric for you. Rafael writes

I was just recently on your web site. I am trying to do research on the stereo speaker configurations. Basically, what size are the speaker on the side door and the size of the tweeters. Any information will be highly helpfull.

www.crutchfield.com has an excellent program for finding speakers that fit. The door speakers are fairly standard units--5 1/4 inch I believe. If your dash tweeters are working ok, dont mess withthem--suitible replacements are tough to find and expensive. Last I looked even Crutchfield doesnt carry anything that fits. Audax maxes some mini tweeters for auto applications that might sorta fit at www.madisound.com if you have burned out a tweeter but I don't know if they would sound even as good as the oem units.


Edward writes

I have a sharkblue 1999 sebring lxi my question is can i put 225-55-17 tires in replace of the stock 215-50-17 my last set of tires were cooper touring didnt last 20000,the 225-55-17 are half the cost as the 215 i was hoping they wont interfer with strut tower,any feedback would be appreciated,Edward Brown

LXiSebring: Not a good idea. THe clearance is minimal and the 225 55 tires are going to be considerably larger in outside diameter. Could cause scraping against the body esp going over bumps. Stick with the stock size.


Jennifer writes Hi. My name is Jennifer and like it says in the subject, I'm getting my first car, to be totally honest. However, I'm not one of those dumb teenagers who try to get sports cars - I've heard of insurance and take that deeply into consideration. I've been researching for months about cars that I'd consider getting and I feel like I'm learning tons and tons. I know what Makes are good and what ones suck for specific reasons. I'm a girl and I get guys who ask me about cars. I also grew up with mechanics so.. Anywho, I emailed because I now have my eye on a Chrysler Sebring/Dodge Avenger for many justifications, not just the looks like you might be thinking. But I was searching for them, and found '95's - even '97's for only $3500. I thought that was real cheap for a car that looks that good. So I'm trying to ask you why that is. My brother tells me that it should really cost $6000 but I find so many for under 4 grand. I just need answers. If you can tell me .. oh, everything you know about Sebrings that you think is vital to my purchasing one, please do. Thanks for you time, I see that you're real busy and I don't want to be a bother.

Eric says... The Sebring is delicate. I have 126,000 miles on mine but I feel that I am lucky. First off, people usually trade cars in to rid themselves of problems. Secondly, 95' is 7 years ago. The Avenger was not an expensive car to begin with. Most Sebrings you find used are littered with problems. Look for transmission,brake,wheel bearing,and ball joint probelms. Great car for the money, but be ready to do brake jobs. Also, the lower front air dam will probably be damaged on most used ones. Good luck to you.

LXiSebring: I'm not nearly as negative on a used Sebring as a teen car as Eric is, tho you may want to get into the $6000 + price range in order to find a relatively low-milage unit in excellent shape. I have had good luck with my 95 Sebring over the last 7 1/2 years, tho I don't drive a lot.

What I like about the used Sebring as a teen car is that its sporty but fairly heavy with a low center of gravity and a long wheelbase. That means they are very difficult to roll. Plus the crash ratings are very very good. I can't think of a car I would rather be driving if I were run into. The problems with the brakes and batteries are annoying but ultimately usually not that costly. If I were looking for a used one, pay more attention to condition and milage than age. The 95-96 models are every bit as good looking as the later models. Engines seem to be relatively trouble free. The occasional owner has dropped a transmission, but overall I think that problem is overblown. Avoid the Sebrings that have had their wheels run off, milage wise.


Jeff writes

Hello, On my way to work this morn my 1995 LXi temp gauge was going up and down, showing that the engine was overheating then cooling to regular temp. Once into the office I was trying to find a solution or common problem on the internet. This is when I came across your site.

This problem I am having is the first time this has happened so I wouldn't call it a common problem yet, but I think there is a good chance that it is the heater coil.

The ongoing common problem I have had with my 1995 LXi is that the ABS brake light stays on most of the time. I have had this checked out by several mechanics who I trust and they have all said that my brakes are working fine, it just seems to be a malfunction in the light.

If you have heard of any quick fix to this problem please let me know.

I have found your site very informative and useful in trying to figure out the problem I am currently having. Thanks for keeping this site up and good job.

Cheers,

LXiSebring: The most likely cause of the temp fluctuations is a bad thermostat which would be inexpensive to repair. Does your mechanic claim the ABS unit is working ok. Sebrings brake just fine with a malfunctioning ABS tho you lose the ABS feature. The ABS units are expensive to repair (aka $800 up) On a 95, I wouldnt bother. Just put a piece of tape over the light.


Robert Dennehy writes

My coupe is a LXi '01 with more than 40X on the speedo. It was interesting to read who many other people have the same problems that I do. Front tire ware (drivers side) blowout for no apparent reason bent aluminum rims and so on.

But I have at lease two other problems that I haven't read about so far.

1. I live in a "snow" state (Connecticut) and have and on going problem with winter wet weather traction. No matter how EASY I let the CLUTCH out I will get wheel slippage (but not all the time) when taking off from a stop sign or a slight up grade. I've changed the stock tires (Goodyear's) to Cooper (same size). But still have the problem. The dealer suggested that I change the tires and go with steel belted studded snow tires. Sounds like a good idea but I can't find reasonably priced tires. The other suggest was to change out the aluminum rims and tires and go with 16"! I gave up on that idea when I figured out what that will do with my fuel mileage, speedometer readings and cost. Any ideas other than letting the clutch out real easy?

LXiSebring: Check the Tire rack ads in Magazines such as Car and Driver for options in NON-studded snow tires. I think you could get a set for not that much money. 2. I am getting a wind noise where both doors meet the body. When I first purchased (new) the car, the windows would stick to the weather-stripping. It was so bad that when I opened the doors the weather-stripping would be pulled out of its track. In order to stop that from happening the dealer adjusted the "tilt" of the windows and glued the stripping in place. But I still have the noise, although not as bad as it was at first. Any way to adjust the "tilt" back to where it was with out going back to a dealer. I know how to take the door panels off but I'm unsure how to adjust the windows. Ideas?

LXiSebring: Check the weather stripping all around for spot where there are air gaps between the window and the strip. I had an air gap in one spot. I cured the gap and restored the seal by sticking a wooden match stick underneath the weather stripping at that point which brought the strip out 1/8 inch.

One other thing. The coupe that I purchased was going to be for the dealers son so he could learn shift on! But since I liked it so much that he ordered one for his son and sold me this one I'm told that the car has ever single accessory that could have been ordered, except the automatic transmission. Which is fine by me. The car and the color is just the way I wanted it if I had ordered it. I was told at that time that although the car is by no means rare it is unusual because of the 5 speed and the accessory combination. Could this really be true or was the dealer giving me a line of bull? Is there a web site that I can look up the production numbers and combinations for that model and year?

LXiSebring: I suspect its fairly rare.But I have not been able to locate production numbers by option for Sebring coupes...yet.

Well that's it thanks for reading this and I look forward to hearing from you.

Thank You


Casey Harvey writes

Hey, I'm lucky enough to own a 1999 Chrysler Sebring Lxi, steel blue and about 57k miles. Its pretty nice as it is, all leather and great condition, but i wanted to spice it up a bit (I'm 16, and a little spoiled)

Anyway, I was wondering if the Sebring has a body kit for it? or if you know of anything else i could do to improve the look of my car, i'd love some advice.

Hope to hear from you soon,

LXiSebring: the guys at www.asog.net are the body kit experts. So far as I know there is no off the shelf aftermarket setup.


STIG MORK writes

Hello my name is Stig Mork From Tromso in Norway. I`m sending you some new photos of my Sebring with new wheels,tires and lowering springs.


Tim Lee writes

Hi, I read the problems that people had and the closest symptoms to my 1996 Sebring 2.5 is the one that you suggested the problem was the EGR. There are a few twists to this though so I'm wondering if you have any other advice. Sorry this is in kilometers and not miles. Around 60,000 kms my Sebring started to have idle problems just like the one you answered, idling erratic but never stalling when coming to a stop. My mechanic couldn't figure it out.....but since it never stalled and I got good gas mileage I just let it be. Now I have 130,000 kms and have problems starting it sometimes where I have to pump the gas pedal, and when my foot is off the brake and the car is rolling forward it shakes like if the idle is going up and down. It also stalls now when I come to a stop (not every time) with erratic idle and low idle about 400 rpm. When the car is in park or neutral it never stalls and idles low but steady. I keep perfect maintenance of it and had the map sensor change and full tune-up. The map sensor brought the level up but not to normal. Throttle body was suggested and cleaned. I like the car a lot, better then my Acura but is giving me too many headaches now. Can you suggest anything else? Thanks, Tim

Eric says .... I.A.C. motor or T.P.S. sensor


Ben writes

Hey im lookin for info where i can get a good spoiler for my 1995 Sebring. Its white on top and grey on bottom. thanx man

LXiSebring:Check with the guys at www.asog.net


Playboy writes

Can you add a twin turbo to this car?

LXiSebring: V6 NO; 4 possibly.


William Hamblen writes

The 2004 Sebrings are at the dealer (Perrin's in Brockville) now. Quite a change in the front.

LXiSebring:I think the changes are on the Sedan and Convertible which did not get the front end revisions for the 2003 model year that the coupe did. So far as I know the 2004 Coupe is not out, and if it were it would look essentially the same as the 2003.


Eric writes

Due to recent events with our new 2002 Dodge 4dr. Stratus SXT, I havent been inclined to support Chrysler vehicles. This is just based on my disgust in the way that I have been treated by the local (Irwin, PA.)Chrysler district manager, Tom Sheehan. My local dealership called Tom in for assistance with the vehicle. Tom overlooked all of the unresolved documented problems with the vehicle, and even went as far as hanging up on me when I asked to speak to his supervisor. Currently there are over 20 Chrysler products between my family and friends valued at hundreds of thousands of dollars, 3 owned by my wife and myself. I have demanded an appology from Chrysler customer service and have yet to get any satisfaction. Currently I have decided to take matters into my own hands. I will be able to answer a limited amount of questions, and please, I encourage you to send any of your bad experiences with Chrysler DIRECTLY to me so that I may collect them for further research. These will not be posted to the site, as the site is operated on an F.A.Q. type basis. Thanks for your consideration.

LXiSebring: Eric, I'm sorry to hear this.


valerie writes

My 97 has now armed itself {security wise}. I have reset the alarm using the door lock, I have no remote. The car will start fine, run for sixty seconds then turn itself off. This procedure can be followed each time with the same results. I made the mistake taking the car to a local mechanic, he wants to charge me 69.95 and 170.00 for I'm sorry guy this is a dealer item . I'm limited on funds I'm up to 323.00 counting towing and the car is exactly the same as when I brought it there. I feel like I'm being taken advantage of and I'm now faced with dealer plus cost to fix this problem . Can I fix this and is this common what to do I don't know

LXiSebring: If this were my car and I were short of funds and not in too high a theft area, and I were convinced the run problem was somehow connected to hte security alarm system, I would have the dealer disconnect the security alarm feature entirely.If the car runs ok, then you could go that way indefinitely, till you get funds to repair if you wanted. But I would not let a shade tree mechanic polish the fender of this car, let alone try to disconnect the alarm system or diagnose the problem. If something else is causing the run problem, you have at least eliminated the security alarm system as the culprit.


Cheryl F. Booker writes

Hello--Can I advertise my 200 LXI on your website? It is in excellent condition and I hate to sell it but my situation now demands a larger vehicle and I would love to sell it to a fellow Sebring lover.

LXiSEbring: contact Cheryl at her email address above if interested.


Tara writes

I've got a 1995 Sebring LXi 5 Speed with 56K miles on it......It's in immaculate shape. Right now, I'm looking for 4 rims for is. I need the 14 inch rims, 5 Lug. Any suggestions?

LXiSebring: For used OEM wheels, check your auto recycling centers (junk yards)

Eric says ...You can buy a full set of new rims with tires at the tirerack.com for $400


Craig writes

Well, I did what you suggested and searched through the whole '97 section looking for the fix for the alarm that goes off unexpectedly when you open the driver's side door. I used the keyword "alarm". I hope that was the correct keyword. I could not find any solution to the problem. May I suggest to you, that rather that list the 10 most asked questions and tell everyone to "search" for the answer that you have a special section listed "10 most asked questions" and have the answers right there?? Love your website,

LXiSebring: See comments under letter below.


Douglas writes

I looked all over this web site but I can't find the cure. I ot in a small front end crash and they replaced my hood now my car alarm keeps going off. I' m taking it back in but that is a week away I was wondering if it is some I can just fix my self or not.

LXiSebring: MOST (tho not all) problems with alarms going of unexpectedly in early Sebrings have something to do with the alarm switch that is designed to set hte alarm off if anyone tampers with your hood. This switch is located along the passengers side of the engine compartment, along the very edge, about midway. It is held down at a little indentation in the lip of the hood over a rubber gizmo coveringg the switch. The hood is adjusted up or down by simply turning htoselittle rubber pads in and out. But the problem is that the hood on early Sebrings sometimes doesnt hold the switch down securely because there is a bit too much clearance between the hood and the switch when the hood is closed. In warm weather, or if the engine is hot, even engine heat can cause the hood to warp upward ever so slightly. The result is, you park the car after driving hard and ten minutes later the alarm goes off in the parking lot.

You can try replacing the switch or adjusting those hood height deals by turning them, but neither repair worked when my dealer tried it. The car was new and the dealer was threatening to replace the hood which would have involved a body shop paint job. I was not enthusiastic about that. So I decided the real problem was that the switch was ok but was simply not held down securely. The permanent fix is about a quarter inch thick was of electrial tape,or heavy foam tape with a sticky side. Since this repair in 1995, my alarm has never again gone off unexpectedly.

I can't be certain that this is the problem the alarm goes off when you stick the key in, but I wouls still strongly suspect that particular switch isnt being held completely down.

I notice on hte 2003 models there is no underhood security alarm switch, which suggests to me htat Chrysler finally gave up trying to get this right.


Ziggy writes

i have a 98 chrysler Sebring LXi, im currently a member of ASOG and was wanting to join your club

LXiSebring:OK


David Sipes writes

Good afternoon. Just emailing to see if you could direct me to somewhere, anywhere to purchase a replacement mirror(passenger side), other then the dealer? I can't find them anywhere? The dealer wants $180 for a mirror! You've got to be kidding me. Any help, I would greatly appreciate it.

LXiSebring:You need to check an auto recycling center (junk yard) for one of these. I was at my dealer and he was checking with the local junk yard for a mirror for a van-owner--same deal.


Reach writes

I am having a dispute with a friend. We both just bought our dodge and sebring. It is the first chrysler product for either of us. The debate is about the overdive switch. He says that the light "overdrive" should be on the dash for everyday driving. To put the light on , overdrive in ON according to the shifter. My past understanding is that Overdrive should be Off for everyday driving but also I don't think a light should always be on the dash. I also listen to the gear shifts and I seem to get the correct 4 gears when there is no light on dash -Overdrive ON. Therefore, I drive with no light on dash and he drives with the "overdive" light on dash. Am I right or is he? If I'm right, can damage be done by driving all the time with Overdrive. I know when the Overdive light is on the dash we get quicker acceleration/higher RPM's which is what he likes. He has the 90's sebring and I have the 90's dodge.

LXiSebring: Good question...With an overdrive gear in an auto transmission, the car will often hunt for a gear (flip back and forth between third and fourth gear) in city traffic. This can be bothersome, so the switch is there to make certain that the car doesnt go into overdrive 4th gear around town. I swiched the overdrive off on mine, and found that while the drivability improved slightly, the gas milagfe went down by 2-3 mpg. Sebrings with the V6 are no great shjakes around town in the gas milage dept anyway, but 15 mpg was just too awful. I switched the overdrive back on and the around town milage improved to around 18, so I leave mine on, and just put up with hte occasional hunting for a gear. Aristo writes

i have a 97 sebring totally modified top to bottom. there is a company out here in la that makes a body kit for it you should check it out it is at tc sportline.com


LA writes

Hello my name is L.A. and I have a 95 Chrysler Sebring Coupe(4 Cylinder). I've had it for about five months and I like it. It has 123,000 miles on it. Recently It has stopped starting all together. It tries, but won't start. I have changed the O2 sensor (the check engine light is still on though), replaced plugs, replaced wires, checked the fuel pump, bought a new air filter, bought a new fuel filter, checked the starter, and checked almost everything there is to check that deals with starting. I was told to check on a Crank Sensor recently. The car actually started and drove perfectly for a week and a half two weeks ago after being immobile for a three weeks. Then all of a sudden it stopped again. It is confusing me because it's getting spark and fuel. So right now I'm especting it to crank agian at its leisure.

Eric says .... Cam shaft sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter .....


Ray writes

Hey sorry but i couldn't find the other emails on check engine lights. Well my check engine light have been coming on for quite some time, originally the computer test said it was an o2 sensor, but even after replacing all of them my engine light has come back on...the mechanic now thinks its the computer. Any ideas would be great...thanks,

Eric says..... Dodge dealer, scan it with a Chrysler scan tool. .....


Edwion writes

Purchsed a Sebring 2002 3.0 six auto trans. I see all kinds of input for the 96-2001 but noting for the 2002-2003 my question is what did i buy is this a mitbishi built auto or not and is the wishbone in the rear a mitsubishi constructed auto ????. My friends ate telling me that the that chrysler changed to there own parts on this vehicle. is this vehicle being built in the Mitsubishi plant or did I buy a down graded junker.

Eric says It's Mitsubishi based, I think they ditched the wishbone..ask David.

LXiSebring: This is not that simple. Daimler Chrysler has majority interest in Mitsubishi, meaning that Mitsubishi functions for all practical purposes like a Daimler Chrysler subsidiary--trhink of them as Mercede's Japanese subsidiary. Mitsubishi technically is responsible for building cars at the Normal Illinois plant, where Sebrings coupes, Stratus coupes, Eclipses and Mitsubishi Galants are built. But Mitsubishi doesnt do anything without checking with the parent first.

All these cars share a lot of chassis parts. This is nothing new, as Sebring coupes, Avengers and now Stratus coupes have always been built there on a Galant chassis. When the Mitsubishi Galant was revised in 2000, it changed from a wishbone front suspension to a simpler design. The new design is probably cheaper to manufacture, but I suspect has fewer problems as well. The auto mags that have looked at htis claim that the new suspension was not an improvement on the old, handling-wise, but they couldnt see that handling had deteriorated either.


Juan writes

Hi, my name is Juan and I own a 95 LXi. Do you know how or where I can find a cold air intake for my car? I have searched in numerous places but I haven't had any luck. And I know they have mad intakes for this car because I have seen pictures with them on. So if you know anything, please let me know. Thanks

LXiSebring : Check with the guys at www.asog.net


Martin writes

Hi! The oil pan shows distinct corrosion damage at the bottom. I read that the part is actually a two-layer design with soundproofing between the sheet metal layers. Is the bottom corrosion enough to warrant immediate replacement? thx

Eric says ....nah mines like that too.


ALan writes

I love my 1997 sebring lxi. I got it used in 2000 and have been extremely pleased with it's performance so far. My wife had an SUV and I got the sebring to for me because I like the design and had only heard good things. To make a long story short she took the sebring and I drive an SUV that cost twice as much as a brand new sebring. It is really a great car. The only thing I've done to it is get a new set or tires at 80,000 miles and a second battery. We have always ran 87 octane gas and no synthetic oil. Last week a friend and I changed the plugs, plug wires, and belts. It wasn't a job for the timid. His wife thought we had broken the car because it was a mess. If you do decide to do it yourself be prepared to spend a minimum of six to eight hours to do the job. It was a real chore having to use both metric and standard tools. My sebring is well worth it though. It now has 102,000 miles and runs fine. It does leak a little transmission fluid. That is probably because of the rear seal. I would recommend putting the after market cone shaped K&N air filter or whatever brand you prefer. It looks great and you can really feel it when you open her up on the open road. Thank you for the website and could you add me to your list of sebring lxi owners.


kick writes

i was just surfing around and came across this sight I really enjoy it, I have had 5 experiences with the Sebring recently all with big a ++, I am a used dealer and have found like I can trust this car like a Honda these cars ride very quiet and smooth and very fun to drive, the only down side I actually see with this car is that it does have a awerful trade -in value I always give very good trade vaalues but was doubt when I took this 1996 convertible in it had 127000 miles and ran perfect absolutely no flaws and that interior is not cheaply made, the trade was only 3450 on this car good trade value to. we drove and hot rodded this car for 2 days sat and Sunday we put 350 miles on it and enjoyed every bit of it. on Monday this car sold fast and easy and the owner is extremely happy with it. it seems any Sebring I get in has a turn around of no more then 3 days on my lot, now that says a great deal about this car and dependability. now I hunt this car at auctions because they are smooth and just fun to race around with. Eric Cooper writes

My name is Eric Cooper and I own a 2001 Sebring Coupe, pearl white. I love my car almost more than my girlfriend. I have had it sence i bought it brand new last year. I was thinking about adding a few wxtras to my car, but I am unable to find the main thing I am looking for. I want some euro tail lights but have been unable to find any. I was wondering if you could suggest a web site where i could find things for my car. Thank you for the page, Its great to see the pictures of all the other sebrings.

LXiSebring: I'm glad you said "almost" there or you would have been in trouble!


Nichole writes

Hey, wassup! I was wondering if you know anything about the power window's on the 96 sebring coupes? Mine just totally stopped working yesterday and I'm not sure why. The passenger one still works. Let me know if you can think of anything! Thanks! ;0)

Eric says........ The switches are known to quit working, start there. .....


Greg writes

Hey, I saw your facts page on the chrysler sebring. I bought a black '98 LXi about a year ago. Anyways, i've been looking for the clear euro-lights for it. I've come to the conclusion that they do not exist but I figured i'd ask around. Maybe if enough people were interested in them, some company would manufacture them. Any suggestions?? Thanks,

LXiSebring: I don't think they exist but you might check with the guys at www.asog,net


Will writes

My name is Will, and until recently I had a 96 sebring coupe w/V6. This webpage was very helpful in a few instances for me. I thought that I might feedback with one of the mysterious ailments this delicate car has to offer. My check engine light would come on for apparently no reason. About a year later, the engine light still illuminated, but the car would die as it down shifted or slowed to idle. The idling became very rough, too. The problem was a clogged EGR valve, which may only be replaced.


Racheal Berggren writes

Hi David, the 4- cylinder engine we have had nothing but problems with it I don't know if you wouldHi david I have a Question about a 1995 chrysler sebring hardtop that we have with know the problem but I'll describe it to you... When you try to start it in cold temps. It starts but seems like its only on 2 or 3 cylinders then clears out and runs fine it starts O.K. when it's plugged in with in-line heater. When you stop at a stop sign or light, it seems like it has a miss to it! We've had it in the shop for the last month or better and they've replaced plugs, wires, hooked it up to computers put in a fuel pressure regulator, did an engine vac. They couldn't find anything and we can't afford to keep sticking $200 a week into the car Please help?

Eric says... Dealer, probably an O2 sensor or something.


Josh Pratt writes

Hi, I have a 1997 Sebring LXI with 64,000 miles on it. The car is in excellent condition. Yet, there are a lot of goodies on it. It has a TCS 2 body kit (with spoiler) that has been smoothly fiberglassed to fit all around. I had a custom dual exhaust put on that is split before the gas tank with APC exhausts. A weapon R dragon intake plus a Venom power chip. 17 x 7.5 chrome 5 star KMC Gnome rims...plus stock. The interior in tan leather but the seats have been dyed in certain areas black to make the interior flow together better...it looks very sharp. New pioneer TA6999 6x9's plus new front door speakers (Alpine R series) plus infinity 3/4 inch super tweeters then stock 2 1/2 inch on dash. It also has an alpine EQ in the glove compartment and a pioneer deck (detachable face). the surround is powered by a lanzar 800 watt 4channel amp, wired with monster cable and has an oversized battery to give good power (1000 amps 800 cold cranking amps). Now for the nice part. The car has a custom paint job...front half black and rear half metallic blue...nice, nice, nice. The two colors join in a zigzag line that runs diagonally from the bottom of the front wheel well up around the trunk(bottom of rear glass). The car hits speeds of 140mph maybe a little faster and is pushing approx. 200-215HP. I am looking to get around 14,000-16,000 for this car. It's a great car...flawless, highly dependable and beautiful. I need to get two vehicles...a truck and a car for winter/summer that is the only reason I am selling. I will have pictures of the car soon.


Grim writes

I had a 1998 Sebring LXI for 2 and a half years and sold it in December of 2000. I have a Service Manual for the 1998 Sebring /Avenger for sale if anyone is interested. I bought it new in 98 for $110.00. It is the Chrysler Corporation Edition, Voulmes 1 and 2. Virtually unused, I would sell for $20 plus shipping.