The Chrysler Sebring Coupe Owners' Page--2000 Listings

The 2001 Sebring Coupes are on the Chrysler Website


Sebring Coupe Archives

Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2005


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2004


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2003


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2002


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2001


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 2000


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 1999


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 1998


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed in 1997


Go to the Sebring Page containing owners listed during 1996


return to The Obscure Facts Page

We don't deal with Sebring Convertibles or Sedans here because they are different cars built on different chasses in an entirely different plant. Sebring coupes are built by Mitsubishi employees based loosely on the Galant/Eclipse chassis (these cars are also built there). The Convertibles and Sedans are built on a Chrysler-designed "P" car chassis and assembled by Chrysler employees in Chrysler plants. Even the V6 used in the Coupe is different from the one used in sedans and convertibles. The 200 hp coupe engine in the 2001 is a high output 3.0 Mitsubishi V6. The 200 hp V6 used in the sedans andconvertibles is an all-Chrysler engine first used a couple years ago in the Intrigue/Concorde redesign. The coupe engine is used on the Eclipse and Galant as well.

New

Check out David Unwin's (aka WheatKing) examination and review of the 2001 Sebring at The Avenger Sebring Owners' Club Location

This week's featured Sebring is a 98 owned by Wayne and Kaysi

Details about the 2001 Sebring Coupes are now available at The Chrysler Website. The coupes will continue to be built on the Galant chassis by Mitsubishi in the Normal, Illinois plant, although Daimler Chrysler is in the process of purchasing a majority stake in Mitsubishi. Sedans (the former Cirrus) and convertibles will be J-Car based and built elsewhere. I just learned in the new Motor Trend that hte Sedans and Convertibles will be assembled in a Chrysler plant in Sterling Heights, Michigan. Underneath, the Sebring coupes are still quite different cars from the Sedan and Convertible. With the 2001 model year, the Avenger becomes the Stratus coupe. Same deal as Sebring on build location and underpinnings.

There are Engine differences too, A 4 Cyl. is again available as the standard engine on the LX coupe, built by Chrysler and rated at 147 hp, and now receiving balance shafts, which should reduce noise and vibration. In the sedan and convertible, this engine is rated at 150 hp. The LXi gets a 3.0 liter V6 built by Mitsubishi, an off-shoot of the previous 2.5 liter version. Interestingly, the sedan and convertible get a Chrysler-built 2,7 liter V6, also rated at 200 hp, and basically the same the same engine as the Intrepid. The Mitsubishi V6 should be torquier owing to its larger displacement, and produces maximum hp at a lower rpm than the Chrysler-built unit.

As for transmissions on the coupes, three are available. A manual is available with both the 4 and V6, and there is also the regular automatic and the autostick, which allows for manual shifting.

The coupe comes standard with a combo cassette and player, while the sedan gets by with the CD only unit.Most of the other options are as current.

Styling changes are major but evolutionary. I'm glad they didn't go in for freaky styling as the current awful looking Celica coupe. The sedan is actually quite good looking too. It looks like rear seat and trunk space etc will be similar to the current model. Gone are the huge pieces of plastic cladding, replaced by what is both a simpler and less expensive trim strip. Those of you with loose cladding problems will appreciate the change. The only thing Chrysler is saying about availability, is "in the fall."

This is the opportunity for owners of Chrysler Sebring Coupes to tell everyone about their cars. To be included in the Chrysler Sebring Owners' Page and be a part of the internet "club," simply e-mail me with information about your car. I've changed the format a bit so that the newest owners now appear at the top of the file.

Welcome

The Sebring Owners' Club welcomes Eric aka Mr Tech who will be serving as our person for answering questions related to technical and mechanical problems with Sebrings. Eric is a Sebring owner and is volunteering his time to help other owners.



Also, check out

THe Avenger Sebring Owners Group (ASOG) Website

The MOPAR website

MOPAR Chatroom

MOPAR Auction

Note: Please e-mail Eric or me any Coupe problems you have and the solutions, if any.


New Stuff of Interest

Hmmm... information all over the place about the new Stratus Coupe, which appeared at the Chicago Auto Show. According to Motor Trend, the Stratus Coupe will REPLACE the Avenger. Tho the Stratus coupe is really the Avenger by another name as it will be built at the Mitsubishi in Normal Illinois, and be Galant/Eclipse based, while the Stratus Sedan will be built in Michigan on the familiar Chrysler J-car chassis, which also begat the Sebring Convertible.

Are you still with me? Motor Trend says there will be a 2001 Sebring SEDAN. Though they dont say so, this no doubt is formerly the J-car based Cirrus sedan. So the Avenger name will be dead and probably the Cirrus name. Dodge will market a Stratus (J-car) sedan and (Galant-based) Stratus Coupe. Chrysler will market a J-car based Sebring sedan and convertible and Galant/Eclipse-based coupe. The Avenger and likely the Cirrus names are dead.

Options. After a year out, the 4 cylinder will be back, at least in the Dodge version of the coupe. The V6 will have 200 horspower, and, yes, the manual will be available at least on the Dodge coupe--no official word yet on the manual V6 Sebring coupe but I supspect the engine and transmission options will be identical.

Now for the pictures. The shot from the Chicago Auto Show suggests that in overall package, the 2000 Stratus coupe will be similar to the current Avenger--decent trunk, good rear seat, etc. If you loved the overall Avenger package you should not be put off by the new design.

Dodge is ALREADY Running ads for the 2001 Stratus Coupe and convertible in the May issues of Motor Trend, Car & Diver and perhaps others. Here are some pics from the ads:

Stratus Coupe

Stratus Sedan

Both Coupe & Sedan

To my eye, the exteriordesign of the coupe and sedan are coming together--note the virtually identical grille and hood design. A more interesting question is whether as Daimler-Chryslers purchases of Misubishi, whether the Galant and J-car merge together as well.

The ASOG message board has moved.

The ASOG message board has moved. This is the place to post your question if you need a quick response from other Sebring owners. Membership in ASOG is free and they are planning some summer gatherings for Sebring owners.

Daimler Chrysler Purchase of Mitsubishi

What did I tell you! Purchase of a controlling interest in Mitsubishi by Daimler Chrysler is all but done. Interestingly the clue I had that this was likely to happen was the decision to continue producing Sebring Coupes and Avengers in the Mitsubishi-owned Normal Illinois plant, rather than to move production to Mexico where theSebring convertibles are made. The implication of couse is that the Sebring coupes will continue to be Galant- based whereas the Convertibles are based on the Chrysler "cloud" cars (Stratus, Cirrus). I wouldn't be surprised to see the Plymouth Breeze reappear as a low-end Chrysler model in much the way they are still planning on marketing the Plymouth Voyager as a Chrysler Voyager while still selling the Town and Country van to the carriage trade. I can see this as the "Plymouth" model in the Chrysler line--a Chrysler-Plymouth, so to speak. That would let Chrysler-Plymouth dealers continue to sell what they have been selling without the need for separate marketing expenses promoting the Plymouth name.

Flying cladding

Obviously we have had a number of complaints about cladding coming loose. This seems to have been a problem on 95 models, but 96 models were much better. The problem reappeared when the cladding pieces were redesigned for 1998-2000 models. Sebrings use the same door stamping as Avengers and Last generation Eclipses. THese stampings have a large indentation on the lower third of the door. On Sebrings, this indentation is covered entirely by the plastic cladding. There are holes drilled in the door that accept clips on the cladding. Ther clips fit through the holes like a molly hook, and expand behind the sheet metal of the door.. Along the top of the cladding there is a long strip of a sticky putty-like caulk, keeps water from collecting between the dood metal and the cladding. The cladding panels come from the factory unpainted and the caulk/glue strip is covered with tape. Body shops first spray paint the cladding. Just before the cladding is put into position, the tale is removed and the cladding clips placed through the holes and the caulk strip pressed securely against the door. The problem is, sometimes the clip either breaks off or does not expand properly. The clips are not separate hardware items but are molded into the cladding itself. Basically, if you remove a piece of cladding, a new piece mist be purchased and painted, as the clips and the caulk seal are destroyed during removal. We have incidents where cladding has come completely loose from the car at highwway speed, and flew through the air.

I received the following letter.

Danniel Happel writes

I had found the Sebring site several months ago when I was having problems with my door garnish panels falling off the car (outside lower trim). Via your site I searched the NHTSA site only to find that several complaints had been registered for the same problem that I had experienced. I filled out the on-line report in early October. Had my panels replaced at the dealer (no charge). Submitted to Chrysler Arbitration. The results of this effort were less than I expected. Basically this review stated that the panel's mounting clips were a design problem which had yet to be resolved. The mounting clips were being revised.

Well, today, a rep from the NHTSA called me for details concerning my car. From our conversation I got the impression that NHTSA wants input in regard to these faulty panel clips from owners. Apparently, the panels parting from the car at highway speeds, MAY BE considered a highway safety issue. Additionally, they are concerned as most of the complaints are for 96'; 97'; and 98' model coupes.

I have but one request. Get the word out to fellow Sebring owners via your site to register their complaints ASAP. The more information the NHTSA has the better. Especially, if there is documented accidents caused by the panels parting the car. Establishing the fact that the parted panel caused or hampered highway safety. Copies of documents may be requested for review.

I have included the email address of the rep Peter Ong from NHTSA that contacted me. phone: 202-366-0583

If any questions or comments, please advise

Respectfully
, Daniel Happel
w 888-646-8779

If Chrysler is forced into a safety-related recall on this, it could be expensive if it is deemed that all cladding with certain clip designs must be replaced. It will be interesting to see how this one turns out. If you have had problems with cladding coming loose be sure to drop an e-mail to Peter Ong at NHTSA as they are trying to figure out hte extent of the problem as well as what should be done about it.

Replacing batteries in remote keyless entry transmitters

I had an interesting experience when the remote Keyless entry no longer worked on my car. I presumed it was time for battery replacement, My unit is from 1995, and I'm not sure if the design changed significantly in later years or not. Anyway here is what I ran into. I first pried the two sides of the keychain transmitter apart. If you have fairly long fingernails you can actually carefully pry the two sides apart. At that point, one of the two batteries will fall out in your hand. The batteries are quarter-sized number CR2016, and the Energizer replacement is readily available in the jewelery counter at KMart (2.99 each) or in the photography counter at Wal Mart (1.99). Figuring out how the batteries go in is a bit of an issue. They actually fit one on top of the other, with the plus (flatter) side of both of the the batteries toward the springs in the cover section. The slightly rounded negative side of the battery fits against the shiny flat circle on the bottom where the transmitter part actually is. I reassembled and it works (it didn't work with the batteries installed upside down). I would be interested in hearing if any of you have had experience installing batteries in later models and whether these instructions are correct for those models as well.


Click here to visit the Chrysler Central Website Stop in and say hello!!!

THe August, 1999 Issues of Automobile & Car and Driver have full reports on the new Mitsubishi Eclipse--You can bet that some of the equipment listed will show up on the next generation Sebring/Avenger. Hp on the new V6 is rated at 200, torque at 205. The latest word is that the V6 will continue to come from Mitsubishi for Sebring/Avenger.

If you are interested in trade-in values on Sebrings, check out The Kelly Blue Book SiteInteresting to note that the Chrysler website now has a link to the Kelly Blue Book site--how times change in the automobile business!


Car and Driver(Sept, 1999) and Auto Week magazines have some information that will be of interest to Sebring Owners. Car and Driver contains a picture of the 2001 model similar to the one on the main ASOG website (p. 29). The July 26th issue of Auto Week includes a very favorable road test of the 2000 Eclipse, which will again share the chassis with the Sebring/Avenger. The Eclipse chassis is based on the new Galant, also tested in the same issue of Car and Driver. Car and Driver really liked the new Galant Chassis and Mitsu engine, ranking it number one in a comparison test of sedans incuding Toyota Camry(!!!) Honda Accord, as well as other foreign and domestic competitors. This bodes well for the new chassis in Eclipse/Sebring/Avenger applications.

On a sad note, the new Galant chassis eliminates the Wishbone suspension in favor of a cheaper strut system, and this arrangement is carried to the Eclipse--the cheaper system will probably be used on Avenger/Sebring as well. In my view the Wishbone arrangement is what gives Avenger/Sebring that wonderful BMW-like, glued-to-the-road feel on the highway. Anyway, the Auto Week article claimed that the old system was only marginally better than the new strut design. I await a comparison drive on this one. Expect to see the next generation Sebring and Avenger in early 2000 (Feb maybe) as a 2001 model. Stay tuned.

Performance Tips from Eric

I promised you earlier that I would find hard evidence before I recommended any performance parts.I am sick of the hype and the 'magic products.' Here are some options.

SPARK PLUGS:

For the 4 cylinder NGK recommends the BKR6E-11 set at 0.050".
For the V-6 NGK recommends the PFR5G-11, set at 0.044" - NGK's initial setting,
thus the "-11" or 1.1 mm.
If you like the idea of using Platinum plugs or have questions reguarding them you can Email me (Drawsoncad@aol.com)
The NGK engineer for Chrysler applications is (knakayama@ngksparkplugs.com)

WAX & POLISH:

Want to try the absolutely best car polish system in the World? Zaino Bros. I have used these products for a long time and let me tell you nothing compares. Did I mention the owner Sal is a really nice guy and will answer all your questions?

PERMANENTLY SOLVING BRAKE PROBLEMS:

Here are Eric's recommended part numbers:

Front Axxis Pads........................23-484-01
Front Power Stop rotor/left side......JBR518SL
Front Power Stop rotor/right side....JBR518SR
Rear Axxis Pads.........................23-383-01
Rear Power Stop rotor/left side.......JBR772SL
Rear Power Stop rotor/right side.....JBR772SR

These are slotted rotors that will solve the warping problem so common on Sebrings/Avengers. Contact Ralph at Olympic tell him I sent you. He will set you up with a set of Powerstop SLOTTED rotors and Axxis metal master pads. I'm sure that they are available elsewhere but their prices and service is second to none. When you have them installed make sure that they replace the brake clips (Hardware) and lubricate ALL the contact points of the pad to the calipers. This will fix your problem.

PCM Codes

Click here for PCM codes THere is another link at PCM codes

Use this tool to find & help troubleshoot problems. Your cars computer stores codes "Engine Light" this is how to find out what they mean.

LXiSebrings Show and Shine Trick

Having trouble getting those black plastic outside mirrors to get back to a factory sheen? Try a silicone-based product for blackwalls and black plastic trim. I use Westley's "Black Magic" I bought my bottle some years ago. Check your favorite auto supply store. This restores the dulled and faded plastic part to its original factory sheen, tho you may have to reapply it occasionally. Fading of the mirror plastic appears to particularly be a problem on 95-96 models.

Five Star Dealership

I had my first visit to a five-star dealership. Some things I noticed that were different were, first, the oil change that was $19.95 is now $23.95...A coincidence? On driving up I was met by a mechanic instead of a service manager whose job it was to answer questions. So I asked about whether I should think about changing my brake pads. My car is very low milage, a '95 with just over 19,000 miles--but nearly all of that is stop-and-go driving. The mechanic said I can check your brakes with a flashlight since you have the cast wheels. He did, and declared my pads ok with good life left.

An interesting question is why I am getting better brake life than most owners here are reporting when the type of driving I do should be harder on brakes than the driving most of you do with lots of highway miles. The mechanic and I discussed the role of driving habits, in particular, the use of the brake as the primary device to slow the car from high speed. When people come to the website and complain that they go through pads and rotors every 10,000 miles I don't like to tell them that maybe they should examine how they use the brake pedal in ordinary driving, but sometimes I swallow hard and do. People generally don't like to be told that they never quite learned how to drive, and the engine is the first brake on the car, not the brake pedal. Anyway the mechanic agreed with me that driving habits have a great deal to do with brake pad & rotor life. He then talked me into a $9 tire rotation. All in all, not a bad experience.

Sebring Owners Forum

Click Here

Sebring Owners Listed in 2000:


Chris Raney writes

Hi, I have a '96 with 83,000 miles. A couple of weeks ago the car began to idle rough with a surge (miss). I took it into a mechanic who then proceeded with a tune-up. The car still ran the same. Took it back to the mechanics, ran fine for him and he couldn't get a computer code. I then took it to the dealer who says #1 and 4 cyl. misfire. They recommended to put the factory plugs and wires in it. I checked with the mechanic and he told me the wires were form the dealer. I checked the plugs and they ended up putting Autolites in it. I have then upgraded to NGK platinum. The car still surges at idle. The mechanic is now telling me the injectors need to be replaced. Have you heard about any similar problems?

Eric says.................................................................................... I would definitly try the Champion plugs,and use 87 Octane gasoline only .....................................................................................


Kimberly writes

i have a 1997 sebring lxi we had to take it to a mechnic because of a grinding noise in the right tire they told us that it was the lower ball joint and it would cost $177.00 to get a new one that's if we replace it ourselves. i was wondering if we could find the part someplace other than a dealership

Eric says ...................................................................................... Yes, I would try Napa, but get a second opinion on that ball joint problem first, sounds fishy. ..................


Anne writes

Flat tires !!!! Usually, slow leaks. I have had 6 in the past 2 years since purchasing the pretty car. Never before have I had a flat. I am afraid to drive that "Killdozer." Should I purchase new wheels and tires or just trade it in for a Camry? I noticed many similar complaints on your web page. Is this a manufacturing fault?

Eric says ....................................................................................... It has to do with the tire moving on the rim, these aluminum wheels are tricky, goto a reputable tire place and have them "glue" your tires to your rims, If they look at you funny go somewhere else. .......................................................................................


Jim writes

I own a 1998 Chrysler Sebring Coupe that has a recurring problem starting up. When you turn the key the starter motor turns, but it won't catch. It is the exact same symptoms as if the car was out of gas or not getting a spark. This occurs roughly 5 times a month. So far the problem has not been diagnosed because by the time the car gets towed to a mechanic it starts right away and rides as if there were never a problem. I have been told that unless the problem is occurring when the mechanic looks at it they cannot diagnose the problem. This is driving me crazy because I never know if my car will start when I go to use it. Most times I can get the car started by waiting 5 minutes to a few hours (the necessary time varies). But lately it has been getting harder and harder to start the car. Last week I could not get it started and I called a tow truck. When the tow truck got there the driver was able to start the car, but a big whiff of gas came out when he did. This leads me, as well as the driver, to think it has something to do with the fuel line which I told my mechanic. But when I had the mechanic look at the car, once again, he could not diagnose the problem. I am at my wits end with this car. If you can be of any assistance in either diagnosing the problem or recommending a course of action I would be very grateful.

Eric says ..................................................................................... The dealer has a computer called the "co-pilot" which will record the cars problems at the touch of a button, ask your dealer about it. ....................................


Shane writes

I just purchased a brand new 98 leftover Sebring LX Coup in Nov 2000. It is white in color with the 2.5 Liter V6 engine, alloy rims etc, with full warranty. After I bought it I took it home and put a few good coats of wax on the car, and had it undercoated. I noticed a few little rusty colored dots in the paint. Do these cars have a tendency of rusting quickly, I am thinking of taking it back to the dealership to make them awair of this. If it gets to bad I am going to request the car to be repainted. Is that a good idea or is there a way of getting rid of the little rust dots?

Eric says ....................................................................................... It may have been touched up or something during its 2 year layover, lots of times new cars come in damaged, could be shoddy dealer paint work, your warranty should cover this. .......................................................................................


SuPhHa writes

my front bumper is cracked. i see other sebrings with the same problem. i want to get i painted but i just dont know what to do about the crack. what can i do to make it look better.glue, tape or what. because i know that it will cost a lot to get the bumper replace.

Eric writes ......................................................................................... Your right, about $800, you could probably "RIG" it with some fiberglass resin but it wont look right until you replace the metal inner shell behind the cover. ..........................................................................................


Brian writes

Hello, My name is Brian and I just purchaced a '96 LXI 2 days ago and already discovered your infamous brake rotor problem. Could this also cause the steering to vibrate? I noticed there was a mis-matched tire on the front and am getting them balanced asap. I also wanted to know how I could find if the car came oroginally with a remote. The drivers side power lock solenoid is not working and I think the remote might have been discarded as the car came with every other option. The dealer wants to sell me the door handle and solenoid for 170$ any idea where to get another or a used one? I'm also looking for a rear deck spoiler if you know of any mfgs dealing in them. There are no Sebrings in any of the junkyards near me (I don't know if that's a good or a bad thing) I havn't had the car long enough to find all it's problems, but I want to check any before any of them occur. I don't want to put ALL the money I make drawing on cad into it. thanks, Brian

Eric says ......................................................................................... Yes warped rotors will cause the steering to vibrate,and so will mismatched tires, you have a combination of problems there. Try a Dodge Avenger for parts, it's the same setup. ..........................................................................................


Greg writes

I have a '95 Sebring LXi, and I've got a couple of 'minor' things I'm wondering if you could help me with: I've got a dash light out behind temperature control panel, and a faulty cruise control switch. I only attempt reletively simple repairs, and I'd like to know if there is an easy way to change bulbs, or must I pop $$$ for labor to do this for me...? Can you offer any sites that might help with this? Or perhpas you yourself know...

Eric says ......................................................................................... I would goto Barnes and Noble and order a Sebring Chiltons manual, or maybe a FRIENDLY Dodge or Chrysler shop could print you off the exploded assembly view of the dash from their parts computer. ...........................................................................................


Adam writes

I've read that you have installed the PIAA Super White bulbs in your Sebring. Is there a significant visual difference between them and yellow halogens, or should I go for a real Xenon kit to get the blue-white light?

Eric says ......................................................................................... I am very happy with the Piaa's, They are whiter but do not enter into the catagory of "blue" I had my wife follow me once and compared to the other cars, It appears as if she had the HI-Beams on. They are high quality and I would reccommend them. Real HID is $1000, and your reflectors arent designed for them anyhow. The Piaas are more of a white "corrective" bulb rather than an introduction of fake blue cancelling out the usable yellow light bulb. ..........................................................................................



Mike writes

I own a 96 sebring LXi and I am looking to add to my performance. what can I do? i plan to start out small and work my way up.your suggestions would be greatly appriciated. thanks,mike


JRodi writes

The Chrysler Sebring I own has only 57,700 miles and so far has had (3) chips in the transmission replaced, (1) transmission and is now current in the shop for more transmission problems. I was driving on the highway at 65 when the car jerked, steering froze and car almost stalled. After that the car would not go over 45 mph and the car was making a high pitch noise. The drivers seat broke and I was told the 2 motors which control the seat were gone and needed replacing, this would have been a very expensive job if not for the warranty. I have been very disappointed with the car. Luckily I purchased the extra warranty i.e. 6 years or 60,000 full warranty. After the car is fixed I am trading it in and not for a Chrysler made product.


Pete writes

I am so glad that I finally found a web site about my car. I am an owner of a 1995 Black Sebring. I love it, and I would love to do some modification to it but there is the problem of accesories not being as common as they are for civics and accords. The reason for this e-mail is that on the Sebring photo page, the photos of Alex's custom Sebring got my attention because of the fact that on his headlights, the corner lights are clear, mine are orange. Would you have any suggestions as to how I could do this to my car? The same thing is with the Tail Light covers, I want to black mine out like Alex did, but I can't find any store that sells blackouts for my car, if they don't sell that part how can I black out my lights to look like Alex's. I really appreciate the time you took to read this and I would love to send you pictures of my sebring if you still have room on your page.

Eric says ................................................................................... This madification requires the removal of the bucket and cutting to remove the orange lens. ...................................................................................... __


Gregory L. Hughes writes

I have a '95 Sebring LXi, and I've got a couple of 'minor' things I'm wondering if you could help me with: I've got a dash light out behind temperature control panel, and a faulty cruise control switch. I only attempt reletively simple repairs, and I'd like to know if there is an easy way to change bulbs, or must I pop $$$ for labor to do this for me...? Can you offer any sites that might help with this? Or perhpas you yourself know...


Bob Mosley writes

I purchased my 2000 Sebring LXI coupe in June, 2000. I really enjoy most of the car, but have been very unhappy with the front spoiler. The engineering and design is so low that it scrapes and catches on every parking bumper. In October, I was charged $62.00 to replace the front bracket and now (November) the bracket is bent again and, this time, the plastic is torn. I e-mailed Customer Assistance and Mr. Eric Ulferts, Senior Staff Rep, answered that "the situation written about is a function of the vehicle's design". I replied and asked for a clarification of "the function" but only received another weasel-worded answer. The car has several flaws; however, they can be overlooked and the finer points appreciated. The design that is costing many dollars to repair after only 7000 miles can only be a gross error on the part of DaimlerChrysler.

Eric says

As a general rule, if the object is higher than a soda can, dont run it over, Ferraris,Porches, and even the Corvette are lower than the Sebring in the front. When in doubt, "BACK" into the spot. .......


Mark Sowers writes

I have had to replace two wheels and am getting a extraordinary number of flats on my 98 LXi. Have there been many complaints regarding the thinness or lack of strength in the wheels used?


Eric writes

I'm in the middle of testing car care products. If you have a chance pick up some 3m Medium Oxidation remover/wax. It contains a mild compound that will polish those black plastic mirrors like glass. I did mine last month and there still shining. I also used the 3m Finesse It 2 rubbing compound to remove scratches in the windshield. That product contains no wax and does an excellent job. It's also good for taking out acid rain spots or minor paint blemishes. Well, I will keep you updated as things progress.


Dean writes

Hi, my name is Dean and I own a 98 Sebring LXI. I'm having a problem with the brakes, going on my third set of pads with only 21,000 miles on the car. I've read at another site about brake problems and was wondering if you're aware of any service bulletins or the like with regards to this problem. Any help is appreciated

Dean

Eric Says

.....I have listed some parts towards the top of the page that should fix your problem. Unfortunatley they are wear items and hardly ever covered under warranty.


Jake writes

Hi Can you tell me where the fuel filter is located? 97 Sebring coupe Having problems keeping idle, dies in gear. Thank you for any help you can give :)

Eric says .....Thats a good question, Mine was replaced once (4 cylinder) and it took them forever so I know it's burried. The filter is located along the firewall I believe. $60


Mike writes

I own a 1996 Sebring Lxi. I don't have the owner's manual that goes with it b/c I bought I used in 1999. I love the car, but don't know how to program the garage door opener. How do I do that? How do I get a manual? I saw one on ebay for $14.99, but I am not sure if it is official. Also, do Sebrings have a history of brake problems? I have my discs replaced, and a few months later, it feels a bit rough to brake. I live in Greensboro NC and there aren't many decent places I can take my car to get these answers.

Thanks so much,

Mike DiPaola@triad.rr.com

.....I'd ask Dave about the garage door opener,as far as brakes go, yes they are a problem. The parts listed towards the top of the page will fix most of those headaches though.

LXiSebring says: Order the owners manual at the parts dept of your dealership. I'd be guessing on programming the door opener.


Quentin writes

I am writing to ask about the reliability and saftey of the 96 Sebring LXi Coupe. The car is beautiful, but I have heard many horror stories about brakes, rotors, and other various problems. Can you give me some good information about this car. I have found a sweet deal on one with 65K miles. What is the real deal on this car? Please help me before I buy, which may be as early are today or tomorrow. I am in the military and cant afford to waste any money, no matter how pretty the car is. I do know something about cars, but would like your honest opinion and the car. Thanks,

Eric Says

.....I'll be honest, You could really hurt any car in 65,000 miles. I have 80k now and mines fine but it takes upkeep. The Sebring is deffinatley not a beater by any means. Even balancing the tires twice a year is mandatory. If your not a do-it-yourself person expect lots of service bills for brakes. If you want bang for the buck though you cant go wrong.


Mike writes

Thanks for your site very informative but depressing. My 95 Wild berry/Grey LXI was one of the first in Alberta, Can. (March 95) Other than the usual brakes & battery the car was very good until the warranty came off. (now have 60K) Now I'm suffering many of the same aches and pains others are. (PCM, sensors, lights, CD, etc.) One of the things I haven't seen on the site I've experienced is the alarm being activated by the drivers airbag. On hot days it would go crazy and I couldn't shut it off. Anyway the dealer said that one of the alarm sensor wires went over the airbag in the steering wheel and with expansion set it off. Anyway got a new steering wheel and I probably have the only 95 with a rams head embossed into it. I thought of selling it a dozen times, then someone pulls up along side me asks how I like my new Mercedes and I keep driving it and complaining about what a piece of crap it is.

Eric says .....You have a Dodge Avenger steering wheel. Also in my opinion a beautiful paint combination. Don't forget the 95' was the guinnea pig model. I know deep down you love the car. 60k is pretty good milage, but enoough time for stupid stuff to start breaking.


Frank writes

Hi Eric..I found your name on the web and heard you are a Sebring specialist. Maybe you can help, because I am almost hopeless by now. First of all, please excuse my English, I am European and just living in the US. I have a Sebring convertible JXI (1997). So far it drove pretty good, but lately pretty often when I gave gas, the car would not react for a second or two. A couple of days later the car died down (totaly, no power, etc.). Fortunately in front of a repair shop, unfotunately their diagnostic computer did not find anything. They put in new crankshafts (165,-), but I could only drive appx. 100 yards and it died down again. I brought it to a Chrysler dealer. They also checked it and said it was running o.k. Within the next 10 days I was stranded 3 times (meaning 3 rental cars and 3 x towing service). Every time, the car would die down, and not start anymore. Strange enough, a few mins later at the dealer it would start and run for hours. There was no consistency in it, sometimes it died down when the car was cold, sometimes after running or 30 miles. Finally, the car one day died at the dealer and their computer said the distributor was not working. I got a new distributor (incl. lots of work hours: 1,100,- bucks). They explained to me that the source of the problem could also be the board computer. Beause I was shortly over 80,000 miles (the warranty limit fo the computer) and because of my major trouble, Chrysler decided to give me the board computer for free. Anyway, at the end of that expansive repair I paid. When they wanted to bring me the car, ironicalyb it did not start. That was last Saurday. Of course, Monday morning it did start without problems. They kept the car till today (Wednesday) and drove it a total of 90 miles - no problem. I got it back today. So far so good, but I have the feeling, it will die down again soon. I am not sure, if they know what's going on or if they are really cueless. I have paid a total of almost two grands now and basically am where I was before. I was wondering if you have heard about a similar problem or would have any idea. I appreciate your time. Have a great Thanksgiving day! Frank

Eric says .....They should connect your car to the "CO-pilot" so that they can record the cars activity while driving. This would really help the diagagnosis.


Matt writes

do u know if u can raise or lower a chrysler sebring by using the torsion bar. Please let me know if u know anything as soon as possible

thanks

Eric says .....Torsion bars huh? You have a great idea but I havent seen torsion bars since the late 70's. The Sebring uses double wishbone and struts w/ springs on all 4 corners. You could cut the springs and realign or buy a spring kit from Eibach. Try searching ASOG on the web.


Daniel writes

Where can I find Speakers Foe My Lxi 95 without buying from the dealer?

Eric says .....I put all Infinity Reference speakers in mine. It was simple to do and economical. Crutchfield will tell you what types will fit into your car. You can tell them it's a Dodge Avenger, this will eliminate the confusion.


Jason writes

Hello- I recently purchased a 1996 Sebring LXi with 48,000 miles. It's white with grey cladding, Leather/Infinity sound system/sunroof , I just love it. The only 'complaint' I have is the whistling noise I hear when I travel at speeds above 50 mph. It only happens when I apply pressure to the throttle-as soon as I let off the noise goes away. Is this related to the transmission or is it just noise from the engine? I saw a few other messages about this problem but was wondering if a solution was ever discovered. Thanks-jason

.....Its probably the cable that runs to the transmission, they tend to vibrate. Try driving it in second, see if it goes away. I know that some transmissions whine too, but I think its one of those notice it or just ignore it noises.


YOLIE writes

well i just recently purchased a 98 sebring lxi and all i can say is that i am very content w/it so far, no problems just maybe a few speed bumps but other than that no problems at all


Shane writes

Hi I just purchased a brand new 98 leftover Sebring LX Coup in Nov 2000. It is white in color with the 2.5 Liter V6 engine, alloy rims etc, with full warranty. After I bought it I took it home and put a few good coats of wax on the car, and had it undercoated. I noticed a few little rusty colored dots in the paint. Do these cars have a tendency of rusting quickly, I am thinking of taking it back to the dealership to make them awair of this. If it gets to bad I am going to request the car to be repainted. Is that a good idea or is there a way of getting rid of the little rust dots? Thanks,

LXiSebring: I have a feeling you are seeing a bit of red primer not rust, but ask your dealer


Chris Raney writes

Hi, I have a '96 with 83,000 miles. A couple of weeks ago the car began to idle rough with a surge (miss). I took it into a mechanic who then proceeded with a tune-up. The car still ran the same. Took it back to the mechanics, ran fine for him and he couldn't get a computer code. I then took it to the dealer who says #1 and 4 cyl. misfire. They recommended to put the factory plugs and wires in it. I checked with the mechanic and he told me the wires were form the dealer. I checked the plugs and they ended up putting Autolites in it. I have then upgraded to NGK platinum. The car still surges at idle. The mechanic is now telling me the injectors need to be replaced. Have you heard about any similar problems?

LXiSebring: Before I had injectors replaced I'd have a dealer mechanic take a look.


Craig Kuhlman writes

I have a 97 LXi. Its Maroon w/gray interior and has 17" Rims


Kristi Connors writes

Wondering if you've heard of anybody having a high occurrence of flat tires with the '98 Sebring Coupe. I've had 6 flat tires since I've had the car (just over two years) 2 were found to be nails in the tires, but there have also been the four unexplained other flats. I suspect a bad rim or possibly a defect in the Goodyear tires on the car.

Any information or advice would be appreciated.

LXiSEbring: CHeck the tire valve stems..I had problems with slow leaks there.


Jean Konrad writes

David, any "obscure facts" regarding the 1999 model??? Thanks!

LXiSebring:THe 99 model was just a continuation of the 98s with slight color changes.


Matt writes

Hey, I just saw your website and would like to join in. I've had a Dodge Avenger for about a year and just yesterday I purchased a 2001 Sebring Coupe LXi. Tell me what I need to do to get on. Thanks,

LXiSebring: You are in! You may want to htink about changing that Avenger AOL screen name, however (ROFL)


TURBORICK writes

I own a 96 Sebring LXi v-6 automatic. I am getting a strange sound, possibly from the transmission, when i get off the gas at any speed. As soon as i step on the gas the sound goes away, get off the gas and it's back, also if i put the car in neutral when i get off the gas it will make a big clunking sound right before it comes to a stop. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


Griff writes

Hi..nice to find this interest in the Sebring coupes...i have a '96 LX which i purchased new from Francis C-P in Vancouver. Washington, on May 31, 1996...it took me six months to finally find this one, with colors and equipment that i had in mind.and goodbye to my pristne '65 Barracuda.

color..........black with silver cladding
drive..........V6-AT
mfg.date.......Jan. '96
miles(Nov.'00) 17,000
it's mostly been my 'second' car, so the miles aren't that high on it...and so far, no problems with it(except for the same cup-holder cover failure as most). thanks, i'll continue with your site now

See Photo on the Photo Page


Mr. Ed writes

Hello, My name is Ed from Atlanta Ga, I am including a picture of my 1998 Chrysler Sebring Lxi. This car is pretty much stock except the rims of course. These are 18X7 inch Enkei wheels with Pirelli tires. Please post on your website.

See Photo on the Photo Page


Mike Babichuk writes

I see you are starting to get a few emails on sensors so here's my 2 cents worth that I sent to bubba. The thing that kills me is that in spite of all the problems we still like our Sebring's. Now if Chrysler would reward this type of loyalty by fixing some of these obvious defects on recall I would buy another. Sadly I 'm unloading mine while it still has curb appeal.

Dear Bubba

Good luck I just went through the same thing at 60,000 miles on a 95 LXI. I really like the car and its sharp looking but its starting to cost me and I'm thinking of unloading it. Besides the brake problem everyone else is having my CD is starting to act up and I just finished paying $1200 for the same thing as your girl friend. First the car was stalling without the light coming on. The dealer said PCM $1000 please, a month later the light came on, they said O2 sensor $225.00 please. I wonder what's next. Just for your info a tune up is around $500 and to change the fuel filter $200. If you're an American and living close to Canada at least the exchange is in your favor if you get it fixed here.


Matt Lloyd writes

do u know if u can raise or lower a chrysler sebring by using the torsion bar. Please let me know if u know anything as soon as possible thanks

LXiSebring: I dunno, but I'm checking with Eric. Meanwhile someone else here might know



Michael Lee writes

hey if you know of anyone with a stock set of the 10 spoke Sebring rims that they took off in favor of something else,I'd be curious about buying them.


Walsodar writes

I have a question regarding the stereo system in my 1998 Sebring LXi. I have had it since late August and I drove it home from a dealership about 400 miles from where I live. Anyway, for the first two months I have had the car, the system was fine. However, in the past two weeks I have noticed a strange and quite frankly annoying vibration on the passenger side door. It isn't coming from the speaker, but directly above the passenger door handle. I have noticed that when I apply pressure to it, the vibrating stops. Is there anything I do short of exposing the speaker to see where this vibration could be coming from?

LXiSebring:Sounds to me like it could be in the door lock relay mechanism or in the window rolldown mechanism. The only way is to pop off the door panel, which is not difficult. The screw holding it is under that plastic clup in the hole in the arm rest.


Edie writes

I purchased the 1998 Sebring LXI 6 months ago from my sister, who bought it brand new. I have only one complaint so far. About 1 month ago, the brakes started to squeak. And it keeps getting worse. I've taken it to the dealership, and 2 other mechanics, and they all tell me that my brake pads and rotors are fine. Any suggestions?

LXiSebring: If the pads & rotors are ok, it might just gradually work its way out of it. Ignore it for awhile & see what happens. Some replacement pads are prone to squeaks.


Lonny White writes

I've been wondering - how does the wear and tear on the brakes, calipers and rotors differ when comparing 4-wheel disc brakes to ABS? From what I've seen and read, not many of these cars have ABS on them (my 2000 LXI does) and I'm quite curious about the frequency of brake trouble on Sebrings with ABS vs. without ABS. Thanks!

LXiSebring. All 95 and 96 LXi Sebrings had ABS (IT was an option on the LX model). ABS became optional on LXi Sebrings I believe in 97 (tho it could have been 98) So there are a lot os Sebrings running around with ABS. I dont think the brake wear problems are any different with ABS or without.


Diane Galante writes

Hi...I just traded in my 1999 Sebring Coupe for the new 2001. What a honey! I just love it. Softer, smoother ride, great response, super styling inside and out. I loved my "old" one and this one is even better, if that's possible. I have the Ice Silver Pearl Lxi with gray leather, black and gray interior, fully loaded, with the chrome wheels. I get plenty of looks and great comments wherever I go. It's a classy looking car.

LXiSebring: We are hoping to see some pics of your car soon.


RRemboldjr writes

I have a 1999 Sebring Lxi. I have been looking for such a group. I have plenty of questions to ask and experiences to share.

LXiSebring: Send us your questions & experiences see photos on the Sebring photo page.


Wayne & Kaysi write

This is the most awsome car we've ever bought. But it has a few pros and cons. First of all I chose this car over a Pontiac Grand Am GT because of the special features that it possess, such as the wood interior, all leather seats, tinted windows, sunroof and a kick ass security system. But the only problem I have is that its a little too low in the front of the vehicle. Overall its the best car we ever purchased.


WALKERDOGGS writes

Well hello again. I own a 95 Sebring and I have had it with my Sebring, let me tell u what happened. .I live in Michigan and I had to travel to Georgia this weekend for a funeral, so I choose to drive my car for some reason. Now this was a 12-14 hour trip, but anyway it made it down there perfect with no problem, but on the way back near Chattanooga my pedal would not go back down after I let up of the gas, I would have to stomp really hard to get down and my rpm's would go up. So when I went to stop at the gas station the car just went dead and my rpm's dropped fast. When I went to start it I had to press the pedal because it wouldn't start by itself, my check engine light didn't even come on. I tried the key on key off method and no codes were stored. So once I got it started I had to stay on the gas because it would cut off, so after I got back on the highway it ran find until I stopped and it done the same thing, my rpm's dropped fast, the car cut off, and wont idle by itself. If u can help me I would be very helpful. Thanks

LxiSebring: This sounds like a problem with the throttle linkage--perhaps binding, But I wouldnt mess around trying to figure it out on my own. Its danergous. Have a dealer check it pronto.


Scott F. writes

My name is Scott and I work at a local Five Star Chrysler dealership in Southern Texas. I recently fell in love and purchased a 1998 Sebring LXi coup. The car is Fantastic. I purchased it from the dealership after a woman traded it in for a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee (I don't know why, the Cherokee was a base model) But the car was Immaculate, Wild berry (deep burgundy) in color with the Camel leather interior. It has the 2.5L V6, auto tranny and optional moon roof. The car had 35,500 miles when I got it and currently has 37,750 miles. This is the first automobile I've ever owned that I've had to do NO upgrades aside from window tint (i.e. radio, interior, speakers) Enclosed is a photo of the car (please excuse the mess in the passenger seat, I just got the car and went out of town in it) The only things I don't like about the car (I know it's hard to believe there's ANYTHING to dislike about a Sebring) the turn radius is a little bad and the cost of replacing tires sucks lol (almost $1,000 for a set of 215/50/17) Anyway this is a car I will keep for many years to come.


Anthony writes

Here is a pic of my custom Sebring


Diane Siefert writes

We carry burlwood, carbon fiber and brushed aluminum dash kits for the Avenger and Sebring. Here is a link to our site: Link

Our toll free number is 800-350-5337.
Protrim, Inc.
www.wooddash.com
mrchrome@west.net


Dee writes

Hi, this is Dee: I recently purchased a 97 Sebring LXI (black, fully loaded). It is a great car . . . I love it!! I get alot of compliments; some people even think it's brand new. HOWEVER, I have one question regarding the keyless entry/alarm remote: The dealer gave me one that barely works & doesn't even have a chrysler emblem on it. Is this normal?

THe 97 remote is made by TRW and has no Chrysler logo on it. It does have TRW on it. I think the batteries are weak in your remote unit. SEe instructions above for replacing.


Dean writes

Hi my name is Dean and I am the owner of a 98 Sebring. I found your site while researching information on my car. I am having a problem with the brakes on my car, going on the third set of pads in 21,000 miles. I noticed something about brakes you mentioned in the section "Known Problems" and was wondering if you can reference the bulletin you refer to. I would really appreciate it as I am trying to come up with documentation to take to the dealer. As to any other known problems I am having a problem with the side panels riding forward and touching the rear of the front fender causing the side panels to pop away from the door. Chrysler has sent me a letter stating that they know of this problem and that they will replace the panels if necessary and replace the fasteners as soon as I take the car in. Thanks for any info

Dean, owner of a red 98 Sebring LXI

LXiSebring: I dont know but Eric might. There are better pads and rotors than the factory units. I would look into these if I were you (see Eric's notes, above)


Matthews writes

Do you know when the joint venture between Mitsubishi Motors and Chrysler Corporation ended? And, do you know if any Chrysler Sebring Coupes were built in the plant in Illinois during this joint venture? Specifically, we have a 1996 Sebring Coupe and we just wanted to know. Also, do you know where we can find out more information on the relationship between these companies? Thanks for your help.

LXiSebring: ALL Sebring coupes no matter what model year are or were built in the Mitsubishi managed plant at Normal Illinois along side Galants and Eclipses. Daimler Chrysler recently announced that they are taking a majority stake in Mitsubishi, so, in essence, Mitsunbishi is now or will be shortly a Daimler Chrysler subsiderary. The Sebring Coupe is Galant-based, unlike the sedan and convertible, which are built on a Chryser engineered "P" car chassis. Check the white tag in the drivers side B pillar of your car for info about where & when the car was built. There will be reference to Diamond Star Motors, which is the Normal Illinois plant.


Jeff & Laurie write

Greetings! We own a 2.0 5 speed 96 Coupe Sebring that seems to miss about 2800- 3200 rpm. The plug wires have been changed and the plugs (Bosch platinum). The problem seems worse at times, but not all the time. It is really aggrevating to try to pass someone and the car stumbles and you wonder if you are going to make it or not. The local dealer can find nothing on the diagonistic machine (oh where have all the real mechanics gone???) and I am at my wits end. We love the car, other than this problem, and I hope you can shed some light on the subject!!

Thanks,

Jeff & Laurie

ric says .....Im wondering if it could be the coil spark pack, or fuel related. Try hooking up the co-pilot at the dealer. They will know what that means.


ianrenwick writes

My daudhter recently purchased a 1999 Sebring with about 32,500 miles. At about 35,500 miles she experienced a grinding noise in the front and took it to a mechanic. The front pads on one side were completely worn away although when checked before purchase, they had lots od wear left. The mechanic also said that the rear brakes were improperly adjusted and could have caused excessive wear in the front. I took it to Chrysler, explained the problem, and they changed something in the rear brake assembly UNDER WARRANTY. Last Friday with 38,100 miles on the car, she heard the same noise again and took it back to the same mechanic. Again the left front paad was completely worn away. I took it in to Chrysler and had them check for a sticking caliper but they claim that they could not find a problem. If not a stuck caliper, what could be caaausing this problem? Any suggestions.....

Eric says .....Stuck caliper, I had the same problem once. Try touching the front wheels after driving, if ones hotter than the other, it's a stuck caliper.


Ralph writes

I own a 95 coupe, what bolt on or out of the box parts, can i buy for better performance?

ERic says .....K&N air filter element, and keep your plugs changed.


Hamilton writes

My car has never been wrecked and I am having to replace the door hinges on the drivers side, is this a norm for this year, or did I just pick the wrong car on the new car lot. My car has 80,000 commuter miles on it, but really a car hinge should last more than 3 years, anyone else reported the same problem

Eric says .....Mine are perfect @ 80,000, but im really careful about opening and closing my doors. The right door does feel more rigid though due to wear on the left.


Brady Hogan writes

I had a quick questions as to how much a fully loaded 2001 sebring coupe would run. I'm talking leather, CD, sunroof ya know the whole enchilada. I was also wonder what kind of problems where most frequent with them, in the past?

Eric says .....Brakes are the major problem, though not abnormal for any new car. Ask Dave about prices. I looked at several 2001's and there about $22,000 loaded up.

LxiSebring: THe loaded LXi I saw stickered at $25000 and change but check www.kbb.com for specific prices


Patty writes

Hi... I have just traded in my 1997 LXI for a 1999 LXI Sebring...I would love to join this club...can you send me information?

LXiSebring: You are in! All the info I have is right on the web site


dave allison writes

I just bought a 2000 Sebring about a month ago. And I was wondering how this car is going to do in the snow, with the low front end. This is the first car I've had with a leather interior and I keep hearing a creaking sound that seems to be coming from the seats or something rubbing, I guess I'm just getting use to it. I've been admiring these cars for the last couple years and was undecided whether to get it or a (Supercharged)Pontiac Grand Prix. But I love the body style of this car. I'm a little concerned after hearing some of the same problems over and over again on this site. Some are pretty serious and costly. I owned a Chrysler New Yorker Salon and never had any trouble with it. Thats one of the reasons I wanted to stay with Chrysler. This car handles the road and turns much better I must say. Anyway I'd like to join your site so I can keep updated on what's new. Look forward to reading all the new articles. Thanks


Roel Gielen writes

My name is Roel Gielen. I am a student aged eighteen and I am collecting car brochures and car front emblems. I have seen your webpage on the internet and I thought it to be very beautiful. I am living in Venlo (Holland). In Europe, the Chrysler (2000) Sebring coup‚ as on the photos of your website, is not available, nor are any brochures of this car. Chrysler America does not send any brochures to Europe. With this e-mail I would like to ask you if you can help me to a brochure about the 2000 Chrysler Sebring coup‚ and, if yes, if you would like to swop this brochure with the Dutch or German brochure about the Chrysler Stratus (as the Cirrus is called here, the cars do look like each other, there are only some details which are different from each other). I am also looking for the brochures about the Chrysler Concorde and Chrysler LHS, which are not available in Europe, too. Maybe you want to swop these for the brochures about the other Dutch or German Chrysler models (except the Viper-models, they are sold as Chrysler in Europe, but they are the same as the American Dodge Viper models. Viper brochures are extremely seldom in Europe and can be sold by high prices). I know, English has never been my best school subject. But I think you can understand what I want, more than when I had written this letter in Dutch, in German or in French, which is actually more bad than my English.

LXiSebring: The brochures available at the dealers now are for the newly revised 2001 model rather than the 2000 model. I'm not if you are specifically looking for the 2000 brochure. I have just a small brochure so far on the 2001 model. I assume therewill be a larger book available shortly, which will probably include the Sebring Sedan and convertible as well. Let me see what I can locate for you in the bext month or two.


Billy R Ruby writes

Hello David, My daughter has just bought a 97 Sebring LXI and it has the plain centers in the spoked rims. Are the centers with the Chrysler emblems factory on some or is it an option? Thanks for any info please.

LXiSebring: I checked my '97 Sebring book and there are several different wheel options, but all have plain centers with no Chrysler emblems. You might be able, however, to find suitable Chrysler emblems in the aftermarket, and these could then be glued to the wheels using epoxy. Buy a spare in case the glue doesnt hold. Sheck some of the auto parts places or even the dealer for emblems.


Dino Esposito writes

I was wondering if you or anyone you have heard of has had problems with the alarm system. I have a 95 Sebring LXI, and the alarm seems to go off occasionly without any apparent reason. The manuel does not seem to say to much about the alarm. Dino

Goodness! We've answered THAT question dozens of times here, and everyone knew the fix by now. The alarm is going off for no reason because the hood isn't holding down the security hood switch. The switch is along the edge of hood, passenger side. There is an indentation in the hood edge thats sposed to hold it down. Stick a wad of electrical tape in the indentation and your problem should be solved. It was a problen that haunted most 95 and some 96 models.


Louis Barrack writes

My girlfriend bought a 1998 Sebring and is having problems with it. I am mechanically savvy so I was wondering if I gave you the info, you might have some advice. First, her front air dam is trashed (again). Is there an aftermarket one made that does not sit so low? Second, she is getting a whistling noise that no one cane identify. I have taken it to the dealer and other shops and no one can identify it. I do know it has nothing to do with the engine or transmission (I've disengaged them on the freeway to make sure) but occurs when the car is traveling above 50 mph and seems to be coming from the front passenger area. Any help would be appreciated.


CHAUPPER1 writes

I own a 1998 sebring LXi. I have a couple of problems I have with the car and would like to know if anyone else has had similar problems. First is brake wear I have replaced the pads 4 times with 35000 miles ,also the front end is very low and seems to get hung up on the lowest of parking curbs., Please let me know if anything is known about a cure for these problems such as defects in design. thank you.

LXiSebring: See my notes at the top of the pge on brake wear


Stacie writes

I have a 2000 Chrysler Sebring that has not started three times in the last two months. I have had it towed to Chrysler two times. The first time they couldn't figure out what was wrong with it, so they claimed it was out of gas. They said I must have been parked on an incline. The other times they have hooked it up to the computer and nothing has shown up. The problem is, by the time Chysler gets the car, it will start. When I try to start it, the radio and lights all work, yet the engine will not turn over at all. They say they can't figure out the problem until the car acts up while they have it. Have you heard of this ever happening? Please let me know, I am getting very discouraged. It is in the shop right now and I am currently driving the rental car. I have only had the car since March.

Eric says .....Well if the electrical and charging system are OK then I'd suspect the starter or starter solenoid.


Babiwps writes

I am actually looking to see if you have any info or if you know anything about a certain electrical problem with the sebring. I have a 96LXI recently purchased through a dealership. about a month ago, the battery died suddenly. since having it replaced i have first noticed the radio shorting when i step on the brake. More recently when the car is shut down and i attempt to restart it, it will get no power. I have to put the car into drive first a few times. it will eventually get power to it, tehn put it back into start and it will start. I have brought it to 2 seperate dealerships, no one can either find a problem or it doesn't happen while they are looking at it. please if you have any info... HELP

Eric says .....I have no clue, This type of problem is best addressed by an electrical technician.


Michael writes

Well, after reading the page, I'm glad i'm not the only one who has had ROTOR PROBLEMS. My 1997 Sebring LX only has 56,000 miles and is now going to need its FOURTH SET OF ROTORS! This is outrageous, and believe me I don't "beat" on my car. The first two times, i got HALF of my money back from Chrysler, but not anymore.....it's too far out of warranty. The rotors generally cost about 350.00 for the job. It's always the same story....the car pulses to a stop, instead of smooth stopping. Then you know, "Oh, it's ROTOR TIME once again!!" The dealership says "It's very common with the Sebrings". Give me a break, it should be recalled if that is the case. Other than the rotor HELL, i love the car. Only my rear defog switch and my visor clamps were defective in addition to the rotors.

Eric says .....The brakes are too darn small on these cars. See the Eclipse is the base design for the Sebring but yet they share the same brakes. I wonder why all the 2000's come with 4 disc's now. Just keep replacing your rotors or try the ones I listed on the top of the page.


Denny writes

Hi, My name is Denny and I'm a student at Nashville diesel college. I am working on a 1996 sebring for a person and it will not pass emissions. This car had allot of hands on it.The girl that owns it has spent a ton of money trying to solve the problem. The one vac line runs from the canister directly to manifold vacuum at intake.This seems rather odd.I disconnected that line and plugged it off and my 02 went right to normal. The canister must be purging all the time. If you have a better vac diagram then on the hood I would really appreciate it. Thanks Denny

Eric says .....Denny, I'd take a trip to the Chrysler dealer and pop the hood and take a picture. Seriously you need a good Chrysler shop manual.


Lou writes My girlfriend bought a 1998 Sebring and is having problems with it. I am mechanically savvy so I was wondering if I gave you the info, you might have some advice. First, her front air dam is trashed (again). Is there an aftermarket one made that does not sit so low? Second, she is getting a whistling noise that no one cane identify. I have taken it to the dealer and other shops and no one can identify it. I do know it has nothing to do with the engine or transmission (I've disengaged them on the freeway to make sure) but occurs when the car is traveling above 50 mph and seems to be coming from the front passenger area. Any help would be appreciated. Lou

Eric Says .....1) NO, if it's higher than a soda can stay away from it. 2) I bet it's the windshield seal. Was it ever replaced?

LXiSebring says: Particularly watch out for those concrete bumpers attached to hte parking lot woth rebar sticking out the top...Kiss $800 good bye if you park on top of one of those!


Krista Van Gorp writes

I am currently a Sebring owner, who is reluctantly selling her car. I am moving to Florida, and have decided not to take a car along, to save money and because my boyfriend in Florida has a car for me to drive. I am wondering if you know that best outlets for selling my Sebring in a short period of time. I leave in two weeks! I have had it on the market for a while with signs in the windows and have ads in a few newspapers. I thought you might know of people looking for a used 1995 Sebring LXi. I have it priced at $7,900 OBO. e-mail me for the photo annoucement I put up around the Westmont, Illinois area. Let me know if you have suggestions.

Krista Van Gorp
(630) 734-4013


Dan writes

I just quickly scanned the Sebring web page and I see it has some very interesting bits of trivia. I do have one very important question. My '95 Sebring has a terrible throttle problem. Sometimes (often) when I roll the throttle on, nothing happens! If I really stomp it down, then she'll go. This is at the least very frustrating, and sometimes it's dangerous. Ever heard of this? Thanks D

LXiSebring: Nope!


ERic says .....I'd pop the hood to see if you can manually rev the engine where the throttle cable is hooked up to the throttle body. If you can do this easily,then it's the throttle cable or pedal giving you problems.


Artur Boloussov

Hi my name is Art Boloussov, I own a 1995 Chrysler Sebring LXi. It has almost anything you can have in a Sebring that is stock. It doesn't have a CD player, that sucks. There is this little problem, the car NEEDS MORE HP's!!! I have no idea where I can hop it up. Do you know? p.s. I like your website, it has lots of info.

LXiSebring: Its muchg more difficult to hop up an engine with aftermarket parts than it was years ago. So much is programmed by the car computer and changes in engine output can mess up other stuff such as the electronic transmission controllers and of course emmissions. THe guys at www.asog.net are as up on performance parts as any. There is more stuff available for the 4 cyl that hte 6 because of the parts made for the high output Neon 4.


Dave writes

I have a few questions about tires for this vehicle. I have approximately 51000 km or say 32000miles on this car and have loved driving it everyday. I have had no problems with this vehicle. However, I am in a quandary about tires. You suggest that the Bridgestones P205-55-16 are good tires for this vehicle. Does this mean that you could fit the 16" tires onto the 17" rims? Some tire guys say this is possible depending on the rim. I hate to give up the good looks of the factory rims therefore I will try anything before doing so. Any help would be appreciated. As well, keep up the great work. This site is so informative and I enjoy it very much.

Eric says .....I'd goto the tire rack .com and look for 17" Bridgestone or Michellin's. The Bridgestone Expedia or the Michellin Pilots are both good choices.


Jason N writes

Hi my chrysler is ruby red coupe and it has 17" chrome wheels leather inside 5 disk cd changer and I really in joy the car.


Babiwps writes

david, I am actually looking to see if you have any info or if you know anything about a certain electrical problem with the sebring. I have a 96LXI recently purchased through a dealership. about a month ago, the battery died suddenly. since having it replaced i have first noticed the radio shorting when i step on the brake. More recently when the car is shut down and i attempt to restart it, it will get no power. I have to put the car into drive first a few times. it will eventually get power to it, tehn put it back into start and it will start. I have brought it to 2 seperate dealerships, no one can either find a problem or it doesn't happen while they are looking at it. please if you have any info... HELP


LXiSebring: I would start by trying a new battery.


Michael writes Well, after reading the page, I'm glad i'm not the only one who has had ROTOR PROBLEMS. My 1997 Sebring LX only has 56,000 miles and is now going to need its FOURTH SET OF ROTORS! This is outrageous, and believe me I don't "beat" on my car. The first two times, i got HALF of my money back from Chrysler, but not anymore.....it's too far out of warranty. The rotors generally cost about 350.00 for the job. It's always the same story....the car pulses to a stop, instead of smooth stopping. Then you know, "Oh, it's ROTOR TIME once again!!" The dealership says "It's very common with the Sebrings". Give me a break, it should be recalled if that is the case. Other than the rotor HELL, i love the car. Only my rear defog switch and my visor clamps were defective in addition to the rotors.

LXiSebring: My theory is you need to examine your driving habits. Rotors warp because of heat that arises from hard stops at speed. THe trick is to anticipate traffic slowdowns and use the engine to do most of the braking. If you regularly stop the car from high speed with the brakes, the rotors are going to be prone to warping. ANy time you haver to slam on the brakes to slow the car from speed, you are reducing pad life and setting up a situuation where rotors warp. Having said that, The rotors on the 95-00 Sebrings are not as heavy as they could be. AS I understand it, hte new 2001 models have much heavier duty rotors.


Wes I wrote to you a while back about the lousy wheel cover on my '96 LX. Your response was that these were 14 inch tires and rims. I guarantee you that they are 16 inch. I ordered them that way and just bought a new set of tires that were 16 inch. Just thought you might want to know.

LXiSebring: I stand corrected..obviously 16 inch wheels and tires were optional on the 95-96 LX.


Kenneth Kmiec writes

Looks like I have a bent 17 inch factory rim on my 1997 Lxi. I noticed that several of you guys have purchased after market rims ......... Anyone interested is selling one of your 17 inch factory rims? Please send me a note...... Thanks



Gregory Watson writes

T hi! Just wanted to join the sebring bandwagon!! I have a 96 sebring LXI polo green I love it Its fully loaded gray leather wood consol and steering wheel (brings out the consol) chrome after market rims with and after market wing, also powered sunroof that looks really cool when its fully open. I get plenty of complements with this baby. I have just on little setback "I need more power" I have looked everywhere to find nothing but mufflers & intakes filters. 168hp is ok but I want to ride with the bigboys in my 96 sebring anybody feeing me out there! I have a question for the tech man. What do you think about NOS (nitro system)where you can get 25 to 150 extra hp in as fast as you can put the peddle to the metal. please help


James Hluska writes

i have a 97 sebring.the only problem i have experienced is when i refuel the gas pump always shuts off automatically.its as if there was a problem with the filler tube on the car.

LXiSebring: I htink there is something similar to a ping pong ball in the filler tube that is designed to close off the filler tube so gas fumes don't escape. My hunch is that you have a problem with that mechanism


Sandy writes

great site; alot of information. We just (Sept 2000) purchased a 1996 Chrysler Sebring Coupe, Green Color with gray plush interior, wood grain console. It is a beautiful car and very classy, we actually traded in our 89 Chevy Camaro (Black) for this car. After only owning it for about a week we noticed that the transmission seemed to be slipping, example while driving and then coming to a stop we noticed that when you tried to go again the rpm's would go up but you would not move, also it did not seem to be automatically shifting in to the next gear and the car would not go past 40 mph and another instance was while turning a corner we would seem to lose power. Well we took it in and there seemed to be a leak, and the mechanic was able to fix the leak and also there was something else loose in the transmission (the transmission was replaced in April 2000). Well the problem is back and do we need to get the transmission replaced again. And then a very funny thing happened the other night while getting into the car at the grocery store we found out that we have a CAR ALARM, we knew nothing about this and of course had no idea how it was turned on or especially how to turn it OFF. We finally decided we just had to get out of the parking lot and drive home (only five minutes away), it eventually shut off by itself and then turned back on (twice it did this). We pulled the car in the garage and quickly shut the garage door, it finally shut off again. Well we are certainly hoping that you could give us some insight into this and help us out. Besides those two minor things I absolutely love this car it is so classy and rides so smoothly. We have three children and we can actually take this car out on family outings and my husband and I can take it out and ride comfortable and stylish (as opposed to taking the family Astro Van) when we go out to dinner. Well I believe that I have gone on enough for now about our car. Hope to hear from someone soon. Thank you for a great site and we plan to visit often. I would like to be added to your club, as my husband and I are hooked on the Sebring and plan on owning ours (hopefully) for a very long time.

LXiSebring: Hmm..the old problem with the underhood switch for the security alarm not holding down secrurely rears its ugly head.


Lonny White writes

Hi there, I'm writing in regards to a concern with my 2000 LXI (4200 miles on the odo.) During cold starts, the engine rolls over a few times, sometimes even requiring me to turn the key back and try again. The engine light does not come on or anything - I'm just concerned that this might become more troublesome as the weather gets chillier. FYI I have been using Amoco 87 octane. Thanks for any advice you might have.

LXiSebring: My hunch is that a cell is starting to go bad in the battery


plee writes

Hiya! You have a great site and I really appreciate all the knowledge you have shared with everyone online! Last week I got my "new" Sebring '98 LX. Here's a pic for the page (it would be cool to be added!): Pic1

Pic2

I am taking it into the dealer tomorrow to try to figure out why my steering wheel shakes so much at 65-75mph. All the rims have been checked to make sure they aren't bent, and they all balance out properly. Any idea what might be causing this type of problem? When they checked the wheels they said it could be that I need new tires, or it could be a caliper that's sticking or a rotor that needs resurfacing. What about the rotor warping problem I read about on the site? But would that cause the wheel to shake at 70mph when I am just crusing, and not applying the brakes? Thanks in advance for any help!

Eric says.....If the problem is speed sensitive, it's probably tire balance. Aluminum wheels need to be "staticially" and "dynamicially" balanced, weights on both sides. Also a warped tire or treads that are "out of round" will do the same thing. Have your mechanic look at the tire as it is balancing to see if it is out of round.


sbcdavis writes

Out of all the cars I have ever owned or rented, I love my Sebring!! We bought it from a rental agency about 4 months ago. Beautiful car! However, I do have a few ??minor?? problems. 1. At start up - the brakes squeak for a couple of miles, then the squeak goes away. 2. The check engine light came on at 40,000 miles, but nothing else is wrong. Any suggestions?

Eric says .....Your pads are probably dirty, check the PCM codes link for the engine light problem.


Sonny writes

I really like the car a lot. It is fast and tight. Handles like a dream. It is an LXI with everything. It has 80000 miles and runs great. We have had a few problems, but nothing major. However I just noticed the front brakes are hot after driving. Also there's brake dust on the wheels. This started in the last week or so. Do you have a solution? I do have some experience so maybe I could fix it. Thanks for the site and any help you can provide.

Eric says ....They are probably wearing, brake dust is normal on the wheels for these cars, I feel the system is under sized and over worked.


William writes

Trying to install the new spark plugs but cannot locate the correct area. Thanx,

LXiSebring: I'd have the dealer do this, especially on the V6. THe back plugs are mean to get at, I hear.


Karthik Venkataraman writes

Hi , I am the original owner of my 97 Sebring LXi and I got the works with the car, the usual leather, "premium" sound system, sunroof etc etc.Its running 99,000Miles now. The only addition I have put to the car is a 100 watt Amp for a 12" Sub woofer in the trunk and a few months ago I added a remote starter. Since I have got the car I have had few problems ( Transmission failed at 28,000, front air dam is bent, check engine light is on now.) but I have afew to get some clarifications on.

1) My check engine light went on last week after 10 minutes of driving after a fill up. I called the Chrysler Dealership and they immediately asked me if I filled up with the engine running, and I think I did. They said this was the cause. So I am going to pull the 30Amp marked motor to clear it out.

2) I love the way the car looks and it sure has gotten me a lot of compliments, but a sure eye sore is the sagging air dam in the front. In my opinion it is too low. Has anyone had the same trouble and is there a way to fix it?

3) I have also had this annoying vibrating noise coming from the gap between the front windshield and the top of the dash as though some plastic is loose. Does anyone knwo a fix?

I have replaced the tires once (COSTLY!) and brakes as well. Do you reccomend a timing belt replacement soon? I intend on keeping the car for a long time. One point to note is normal 87 octane gas seems to give better gas mileage. Lastly is there anyway I can boost the overall performance of the car with a chip or some add ons? Thank you

LXiSebring: If you still have the original timing belt, I would get that replaced pronto...you are WAY overdue. Check on chips with the guys at www.asog.net They will know.


Mike writes

To: LXiSebring I am truing to install a stereo system in my car ...I would like to some information or PIC of a custom stereo system for a 1998 sebring cpe . I looking to build a custom box but need some idea to go by...if you can help me plse send me the information....

LXiSebring: I'm not an expert on car stereo installation. Maybe some of you can help out here.


Phil Malouf writes

Hello-- I have a question and a couple of comments thaqt may help others...for starters I inherited a 97 Sebring LXI with a lot of miles on it. Recently, when I try to start it up I usually have it turn over a lot before it will either finally fire up or I stop and try again. Sometimes it will turn on but very sluggishly and I usually have to turn it off and try again. Is this related to the battery issue you discussed with Christopher (did that solve his problem, do you know?)or something else you are aware of? Next, I've read of some people's cars killing while they are accelerating and my car did this a couple of times. After I got the tranny serviced and a fluid change though it has not done it. Finally, I had the loud squeak in the rear suspension that gets really ugly when you go over bumps and stuff. Sears said it was a bushing in the Control Arms and they adjusted it for free...you can even replace it for 11 bucks plus labor, and some places may try to sell you a whole control arm...If you have a loud, ugly squeak this may be an area that you explore. But after they adjusted the piece the squeak is gone. Hope these comments help. Thanks,

LXiSebring: You have the "classsic" Sebring bad battery symptoms. Get it replaced.


Yacov Jegher writes

Hi,

Here is my update for your web site.

It has been about 10 months since I posted my last update on the site explaining the blow-out of my tires. Up until that point I was a happy and proud Sebring owner. I am still happy with the car, and pleased to report that my tires are remaining intact. I have not needed any major repairs on this car, and I am thankful for that, but I do have some complaints regarding fit and finish that are making me question the durability of this car.

My 1997 LXi sounds like a bag of nuts and bolts. It rattles and squeaks and groans. I literally feel like pieces of it are going to come off. Granted, the roads in Montreal are quite bad - potholes, bumps, whatever. However, no other car I have ever owned reacted like this one. I have brought my car in to the dealer or my garage on 7 separate occasions to fix the rattles, squeaks, etc. No such luck! No one can figure out where it is coming from. It is coming from multiple places including the sunroof, passenger seat, underside of the car, center conole and God knows where else. My solution has been to turn up the volume on my music so that I don't hear anything : )

Last week my CD player died completely. I have been reading about similar stories for years now on this site, so I am not at all surprized. More like just wondering why mine took so long to die. My warranty is up, but I am going to try to get the dealer to replace this part for free since it is known to be so troublesome.

My paint job really wore out. I had too many small scratches, circles of small scratches and other such messes. My car only has 37,000 KM on it and I do not drive it hard. I have a great tip for other owners who want to fix up there paint job. I had my car treated at the dealer with compound and it came back looking like new. No scratches, circles of scratches, or anything! Looks simply fantastic. If only they had a solution for the rattling!

Mechanically, the car is great. I am plesed to report that I have had no problems.

LXiSebring: Good to hear from you again! I have a feeling that your rattles are related to the type of roads you drive on. Mine is a 95 and remains very quiet, It's driven mostly around town and on short trips. My paint has held up very well. I don't even wax it and it looks just like new. Again I think this could have to do with dust & air pollution of various sorts.


Greg Watson writes

Whats up!! I have a requset. Not sure if you can help me, It's about the converter. Will you get more power if it is removed or gutted out. I know it's illigal but just wondering Greg watson!! PS; Know how I can get more power!!


LXiSebring: Aside from the legal issue I worry that in doing so the engine won't work properly otherwise.Modern emmission control systems cant just be pitched by the side ofthe road with the expectation that these parts are not needed for the engine to rin properly. The power loss thru the catalyctic converter is no big deal anyway.


Wes writes

T I've got a 1996 Chrsyler Sebring LX. When I purchased the car I got every available option with exception of the CD Changer.

My problem is that I got those goofy wheel covers with the LX that seem to fly off from time to time. I have had them stolen once and replaced two others. I am thinking of ordering a set of alloys but want OEM wheels. While everyone says that I can get an aftermarket set much cheaper I like the "factory" look. Do you know where I can pickup a used set for less than $700 or $800? I can't afford new ones and all the refurbished ones I have found are still very expensive. I did get the upgraded suspension which includes the 16" wheels.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

LXiSebring: For starters, the wheels on your LX are 14 inch, and so if you go with the factory alloys you are going to have to get new 16 inch tires, which is the size of the wheels on the LXi. Expect to pay $100 up for a suitable low profile 16 inch tire. Having said that there is probably someone out there who has swapped the factory alloys on a 95-96 model for some custom jobs, and may have a set of factory wheels to sell. Otherwise check junk yards for a totaled Sebring LXi ofthe period.



Todd Butler writes My name is Todd Butler and I recently found your Sebring page on the net. I am very interested in being part of the "club" & I would appreciate any info. you could send me.........

Name-Todd Butler
location-Mississippi
car-1999 Chrsysler Sebring LXi
color-black

LXiSebring: All the SEbring info we have gets posted here!


Alex Sebring writes

Check out these links on the concept turbo Sebring & other stuff

Link 1

Link two


ThugPA writes

hey i was just wondering if you knew how they blacked out the back lights of a sebring? get back to me if you can

LXiSebring: Can anyone help out on this one?



Christopher writes

Hi...i found your site and wondered if you might be able to help..Just recentle purchased a '97 Sebring....it's been working fine..but..tonight get in and put the key in to start it and the power goes dead!!!!...Yet the key and the keyless remote both will unlock the doors... And my car did not come with a manual. Is this something with the security system or what?..... Please ..help!!....lol

LXiSebring says... Chances are you have a bad battery...its a very common problem with Sebrings. THe battery will produce enuf power to run some accessories such as door locks but not enough to turn the engine over. Sometimes the engine will turn over even but not start. It happened to me. Replace bateries every 2 years on Sebrings whether you think you needone or not


Kenny Husak writes

I recently got myself a 1997 Sebring LX coupe . When I went out shopping for a new ride, this was not at all what I had in mind. Having 2 kids, I was figuring it would be either a 4-door sedan or an SUV. The dealer (a Ford Dealership) kept trying to put me into a used Taurus or Contour. They had dozens of rental return 99 models of these cars. And one 97 Sebring, which had belonged to the dealerships security shack dude. The car was his pride, but his wife had just had a baby, so they where moving to a 4-door for better child car-seat access. Being the original owner worked at the dealership, and I was able to talk to him, find out how he cared for it (and he cared for it really well), and there is still 20k+ miles left of the extended warranty which he was able to transfer to me, I found it easy to turn my back on the comparably priced, yet newer, Tauruses they had and go for the Sebring. My kids are old enough not to need car seats, so I figure they can climb to get to the back seat ;-)

I knew my car was going to be a Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep or a Ford when I set out to find one. My family used to have a Dodge dealership in Detroit when I was growing up, and my Dad was an Engineer for Ford for many years. When we moved out west, I started working in AMC/Jeep/Eagle dealerships. I always liked the Eagle Talons and Mitsu Eclipse models. Learning Sebring was based in the same basic chassis (learned from your site ;) made me even more confident in my purchase, as I am quite familiar with the Talon counterparts.

In the end, I must say I'm quite happy with my choice. It's a classy car that gets many nods on the road, and has made me enjoy driving again for the first time in over a decade (I've been driving an 88 Plymouth horizon forever, but at 210k miles, it spun a bearing and left me little choice but to seek a new ride). The Sebring has continued to impress me in the 8 weeks I've had it. I think I'll keep 'er =)

The car itself...
97 LX coupe
Clearcoat White
2.5l 24valve v6
custom 16" rims and tires
8 speaker Infinity sound (CD/Tape/3band eq/infinity amp in trunk)
4-wheel disk brakes w/ABS
power windows/sunroof
remote locks/security system

Pretty much all the bells n whistles I know of on the LX model What I've done to it so far (not too much):
Painted the wipers back to black (previous owner had painted them white to match the body, which I did not care for)
Added GTS headlamp covers.
Given it a loving hand washing (in and out) every weekend since I got 'er ;)

What I still plan to do:

Dunno yet. Looking to your site for ideas ;-)
Thanks for the Sebring pages. I've found them very informative, and can see myself visiting frequently to keep up on fellow owners experiences, and as a resource if I run into any questions or problems.


Holayersurge writes

I have a 95 sebring and I just wanted to know if you could put 20 inch rims on my car

LXiSebring says...I doubt they would fit but the outside diameter is important. Clearances are very limited .


Justin Price writes

I've just read all the letters you people have sent in about your sebrings and I must say, I love my sebring, too!!! It' has all the options and I purchased it 11-99....(from the dealer), it had 2400 miles on it. It's the maroon color with the gold trim and all the options and I have been completely happy with it, UP UNTIL RECENTLY when the transmission went out... luckily, I had 357 miles left on my 36,000 mile warranty so I was able to get it repaired at no cost... I picked it up yesterday from the dealer , and it still not working right What disturbs me the most about this is that I have spoke with many fellow sebring owners who have had the same type of transmission problems with their sebrings... This should raise a red flag to all sebring owners that they can pretty much count on having some kind of transmission trouble with their sebrings as well....I also had trouble with the lower plastic side panels on the doors coming of due to just plain ol' bad design... In closing, I would like to say, I LOVE MY SEBRING because it is a classy automobile and it rides great and other than the problems that I have mentioned, I have no other problems with it!!!! But, beware, sooner more than laler the likeleyhood of tranny trouble will probably happen, so be ready... In closing, I would like to ask anyone who has had the same problems w/ their sebrings to please e-mail me at panagle@wcnet.net .... Despite all the problems I have had with my sebring, (which really haven't been that bad) , I cannot wait to trade it in on a new 2002 model!!!


Patrick Vick writes

Hiya! You have a great site and I really appreciate all the knowledge you have shared with everyone online! Last week I got my "new" Sebring '98 LX. Here's are pics for the photo page :

PIC1

PIC2

I am taking it into the dealer tomorrow to try to figure out why my steering wheel shakes so much at 65-75mph. All the rims have been checked to make sure they aren't bent, and they all balance out properly. Any idea what might be causing this type of problem? When they checked the wheels they said it could be that I need new tires, or it could be a caliper that's sticking or a rotor that needs resurfacing. What about the rotor warping problem I read about on the site? But would that cause the wheel to shake at 70mph when I am just crusing, and not applying the brakes?

Thanks in advance for any help!

LXiSebring...Just a guess, but you may simply have a front tire that is out of balance...


Alex writes

Alexsebring....more updates first of all thank "MR.TECH" the rotors and pads he suggested worked beyond my expectations..as you can see in my pics I decided to go with cross drilled for the rear and slotted for the front, also I added Neon Gauges, "Cold" Air Intake, Optima Battery, And KYB AGX shocks there great as far as ride comfort goes after a 2 inch drop the front pair is 4 way ride adjustable the rear are 8 way adjustable the part number for the front is 74-1018, and the part number for rear is 74-1019 they fit all 95-99 exc. CONV., last but certainly not in anyway the least my Aero-Duo Body kit custom molded with Dual exhaust by Matrix and Sebring tuning I have included pictures of all most everything ive done so feel free to shuffle them around in anyway you want. Look for me in Hot Import Daze in Irvine on Oct.14 representing for all "Classic" sebring owners....

LXiSebring...Check the Photo page for several more pics of Alex's custom work..Note particularly the cool blue- green gauges.


Gary Rosas writes

I have replaced my brakes on my 96' Lxi about 4 months ago, and now they are squealing again. This is becoming very annoying. The brakes I purchased are from O'Reilly Auto Parts. Can you recommend a better brake for my car? Also, how can I get my boost from my engine? (V6 Lxi) Thanks,

Eric Says .....Well brakes are a sticky subject. I suggest using the parts listed on the PERFORMANCE TIPS section of this page. As far as chips go, don't do it your car is designed to work with its sensors and exhaust setup.


Mike writes

This is not really a problem but here goes. We have a 2000 Sebring LXI. For the winter I want to remove the Aluminum wheels and replace with something like a 15" steel wheel and tire. Are there any know plain wheel and tire combinations?

Eric says .....The TIRERACK.com has some nice combo's for the Avenger 14" about $400 that will work just fine.


Sherri writes

I have a 1998 sebring, it is due for its 30,000 mile tune up. the dealer wants to charge me $500.00. Can someone please tell me exactly what this major tune-up intails, so I can go to my own mechanic, (who I trust more than the dealer) for service. Also, will it affect my waranty if I do go somewhere other than the dealer? Thank you so much

Eric says .....If you have the v-6 they probably are wanting to change the plugs and wires. This is a big Job, however under the hood it says not to change them until 60,000. I smell a rat, check with your mechanic first. Your warranty will be voided unless they are Chrysler certified


Lindell J. & Jeanie Coleman write

I'm having a problem with the check engine light on my 1996 Sebring Coupe. The first time it came on when I was pulling off a parking lot. The car hesitated, I thought it was going to die, but it didn't. Then the light came on. I took it to a local mechanic and he said it was a loose fuse. He reset the computer and it was fine for a couple of weeks.

Then, as I was backing out of my garage, I felt a slight hesitation and the light came on again. I took it to the local Chrysler dealer. They charged me $50.00 and told me it was a misfire in the #2 cylinder, but they didn't know why. They reset the computer and told me I might need new plug wires. The service manager told me the wires alone would be $160.00, but they might be available after-market. He "suggested" I have it done elsewhere, due to the cost.

About an hour after leaving the dealership, when backing out of a parking space, the car hesitated again and the light came on. My local mechanic got the plug wires and replaced them. Yesterday, two weeks after getting the wires replaced, the car hesitated again and the light is on again.

The car seems to be running fine. It may be a little rough when idling, but that may be my imagination too. The dealership told me it won't hurt anything to drive it with the light on, but it seems to me the light is there for a reason and shouldn't be ignored.

Any idea what could be causing this?

Eric says .....Hmmm aftermarket wires, If you are having a misfire in #2 cylinder it could be the plugs as well. Any car above 50,000 miles needs new plugs and wires. You should use 87 octane gasoline as well. If the engine light is on there is a code stored in the car. Check the section on this page marked PCM codes.


TZapata writes

My daughter owns a '98 Sebring LXI. The passenger power window abruptly quit working. Neither switch can make it operate. The driver power window still operates normally. Any ideas on what the problem might be? Can I fix it myself?

Eric says .....If the car is under warranty don't fix it yourself. Sounds like a wire, or a bad motor.


Jaymefay writes

Hi Mr. Tech My name is Jayme. I wanted to know if u could help me with a problem. I own a 96 convertable sebring. When i'm driving or when i start my car, I put it in drive and it falls in neutral. Espically if i make a hard stop or when i make a left or right hand turn. thanks

Eric says .....I'd check the shift selector cable and all it's connections, that's not normal.


HALBRIS writes

Hi, found you on the sebring coupe owners page. Was wondering if you know of any performance chips available for a 1999 Sebring LXi. Would be interested in any other advice you have on how I can increase power/performance on my sebring Thanks

Eric says .....K&N air filter, keep the plugs and wires changed, and use 87 octane gasoline. I also have a few other tips listed under PERFORMANCE tips. The "chip" is useless. You may try a Bosal exhaust, I know they are developing a complete bolt on system for the Avenger.


Lori Church writes

Great site! I own a 95 White w/silver panels LXi. (BTW: It has grey leather seats and they are perfed.) I have put a lot of kilometres (yes, I am from Calgary, Alberta, Canada) on my car. In the 113,000 miles I have driven, I have had little trouble. Recently though, I have had both my rear wheel bearings go. Is this a weak spot in the design? The hub assemblies and 2 gaskets came to $690.00 Cdn. plus labour plus I purchased 2 new tires as there was extensive wear on the back tires and they were basically due for replacement. The tune-up was very expensive although I did have a the fuel injection system flushed and cleaned. I still have a problem though. I am hearing a noise and feeling a vibration when I am driving straight or turn to the left. It is louder and more evident at higher speeds and I was experiencing this before I replaced the bearings. The noise goes away when I turn to the right. I am afraid to take the car into the dealer without some information in hand. The wheel bearings appear to be fine. I was hoping you or your readers may shed some light on this problem before I proceed.

Eric Says .....With that many miles I'd bet the CV joint (drineshaft) is wearing out. Check that out first. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Paul writes

Hi, my name is Paul, and I have a 1999 Chrysler Sebring LXi. I've owned it for only 11 months, but I have noticed that the wheels are being dented under normal driving conditions. I was wondering if you have noticed this problem among other Sebring owners? I think it is a quality failure on the part of Chrysler, but of course the dealer feels otherwise and chose to remind me that road hazard damage is not covered by the warranty. I have never owned a vehicle on which the wheels became damaged so easily. Any feedback you can offer would be helpful. Please e-mail me with any advice at ez1live@aol.com. Thanks.

Eric Says .....Well I have heard of bent rims before, but I just keep an eye on my tire pressure 32 psi and you should be fine.


Mite writes

Hello there, my name is Mike and i am the proud owner of a 1995 Chrysler Sebring LX, it has all options except alloy wheels, sunroof and leather. It has 55,000 miles on the odometer, and overall, i am extremely pleased with the car. But alas, I have had my troubles. Lately in the morning when i start it up, the idle is rough, is that normal? Also when im at a stoplight sometimes ill just be sitting there and the revs drop a bit, and the car will shake a little, who knows why...any assumptions? And a while back when i would step on the gas the car would hesitate to move, the dealership noted that the throttle body needed to be cleaned, and it seemed to do the trick, it runs great now. Also i noticed in the owners manual, there is supposed to be a light for when you get low on gas, its supposed to come on and that means you should get gas. But i have never seen the light come on when i first start the car up(usually all the instrumentation lights, well, light up). Maybe im dreaming, but isnt it supposed to come on? Other than that, I love the car, no transmission problems, no engine failure, i take care of all the cars i own meticulously. Hopefully you can give me some answers to the questions I have asked, I appreciate your website, its really helpful, thanks!

Eric says .....I'd use 87 octane gasoline first of all, the throttle body cleaning was a good idea. Now for the low idle, honestly running the car hard for a tank of gas should help out there. The gas light should come on but only when you have like 2 gallons of fuel left. Remember you have a 16 gallon tank. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -----


Bubba writes

My girlfriend has a 97 Sebring Coupe LXI with a 2.5L V-6. She took it to the local shop the other day because the check engine light was on. They checked it out and told her the O2 sensors were out. They have gone out before when the car was still in warranty so she told them to change them. After changing them the engine light was still on. They then informed her the Powertrain control module was bad and that is what caused the O2 sensors to go out. It would cost her about 700.00 parts and labor to change. I have been told that these guys don't know what they are doing. Are they right in their diagnostics or do I need to take the car elsewhere.

Eric says .....Well I'd disconnect the battery and reconnect after 10 minutes. This will turn the light out. After that keep you eye on it. If it turns on again take it to a Chrysler/Dodge dealer. they will be able to read the codes stored in the car.


Chavilleln writes

Do you know about any steering or braking problems with the Lxi?

Eric says .....The brakes are the only weak link really, but the LXI has rear disk brakes so you should expect 20-30k milage intervals.


Stacy writes

I have been experiencing some a strange problem with my 1997 Chrysler Sebring convertible and I was wondering if you had heard of this problem from other Sebring owners. I have about 40,000 mile on my car and I have it serviced at the dealership on a regular basis. For the past few weeks I have had a few instances where after driving my car for several minutes I will stop at a stop sign and then accelerate to proceed and my engines dies! This has happened to me a number of times.

I have taken my car to my dealership and I left it with them for over two weeks while I went out of town. They have run diagnostic tests and test driven the car but it all checks out fine. And of course, the car did not act up when the service people were driving my car. In the most recent situation I went to start my car and it wouldn't start. I then started my car and flooded the engine which did the trick. Then while driving, just a few minutes later my engine died! I restarted my car and it was fine.

This problem is so random, yet my dealership hasn't found anything wrong with the car. I was hoping you might have some insight ... is this a problem you have heard of with Sebrings or even Chryslers for that matter. Please let me know I'd be interested in your response. Also, from time to time, when my breaks are cold the screech rather loudly. I have had my breaks inspected and even cleaned the drums in the rear breaks, but my front breaks still screech. Again, I'm wondering if you have heard of this problem with other Sebrings or Chryslers.

Eric says .....Stacy It sounds like a fuel problem, check for a clogged filter or a bad fuel pump ?? The brakes need lubricated at ALL moving or sliding locations on the calipers. This should be done with special silicon brake grease. The rotor and pad surfaces should be sanded as well.


Tracy writes

Dear Eric, I'm really hoping you can help me. I own a a 1995 white/silver Sebring. I've had my car back to the dealership twice in the past 3 years because the door panels keep falling off. I myself have put them back on at least 5 times. The 2nd time I took it to the dealership, in Oct.. 1998, they ordered new door panels and painted them and put them on. They continued to fall off periodically, but fortunately it was usual when someone shut the door. This past weekend I was driving and the passenger side panel fell off on the highway and it was run over about 10 times before I could retrieve it. Needless to say it's ruined. I called by dealership and they refuse to order a new on free because I'm over warranty (my car has 65K mls). I've spoken to a co-worker who has a 1996 Sebring and she has had the same exact problem. My dealership won't return my phone calls (and I've actually been pretty nice). I wanted to see if other Sebring owners have had this problem before I contact the main Chrysler number. Any light you may shed on my problem would be greatly appreciated. I really like my car and want to keep it. Thanks in advance for any help you may provide.

Eric Says.....There is a letter on this page written to the N.H.T.S.A. about this problem, I'd go to their web site and print off all the letters about this topic and get yourself some ammunition. Also you may want to try a different dealer,never fix this type of problem yourself because they will blame it all on you.


Julie writes

I've waited a long time to unload about my Sebring LXi, as the dealership doesn't seem to care about my problems. I purchased my 1998 Cafe Latte Sebring in August of 1998. It had 47 miles on it when I left the car lot. Now just over two years later I have 34,000+ miles and almost that many complaints. I purchased the car before doing any research whatsoever. I saw one in town and decided THAT was the car I wanted. I didn't bother with resale value research, problems others had with the cars or what it would cost to replace the 17" wheels and tires.

My first problem with the car was a leaking trunk. I must have taken the car in 5 or more times before that was fixed. Next came the sunroof leaking and rattling. The leaking problem seemed to never be able to be "duplicated" except for one time when it was decided that the drain tubes were clogged. The rattling problem continues to occur and when fixed lasts for a couple of days. Chrysler "fixes" the problem by tightening the screws in the tracks but usually not before they claim to not be able to "duplicate" the problem. Then came the "popping" noise in the front end when I would put the car in gear and take off. Only when I applied the gas after putting it in gear did this occur. They replaced the whole front end of the car before that problem was fixed. After that the transmission began slipping. Come to find out it had all of the sudden wound up with a leak! Luckily they gave me a rental vehicle for one night while they were observing that problem. My passenger side door panel came loose and when I went to open the door it went "pop". Did enough damage that Chrysler had to paint another panel and attach it. Seems that this problem occurs quite often. Only problem is that when viewed at a certain angle, I can tell that it looks like a different shade than the rest of the car. The wheels on the car are 17" (bigger than most trucks) and made of spun aluminum. They are put together with two pieces and easily bent (so it's best to avoid rough roads, minor and major pot holes at any speed, etc). One of my wheels had a factory defect. The other that my tire company told me was bent Chrysler replaced at no charge to me. If I would've had to pay that would've been between $400- $500 for the wheel only according to Chrysler's service manager! That is the only favor Chrysler has done for me (besides the one evening rental). And, yes there's more, there was / is the problem with the windows making a popping noise (believe me the car does a lot of POPPING!) when rolling up or down and when rolled up when it's hot out. They put a new track in the driver's side door which doesn't match the track in the passenger side. So, now the driver's side window doesn't quite recess into the door, it hangs out about a 1/2". When it's hot, which it has been, the windows make noises when rolled up. Evidentally due to the windows having no frame. So, they rub against the black rubber and make... noise.

I've tried to trade and sell the car... with no luck. I shouldn't say no luck on trading it. Another car company offered to give me what I owed on the car in June, an insult to me considering the amount of money I've put into the car. Chrysler has offered to let me trade it for something on their lot. Oh, they're so generous considering I've vowed to never own another Chrysler product. I received two calls on the car after having it listed for five weeks and they never came to see it. I've taken really good care of the car. A lot of good it has done. So, I'm between a rock and a hard place. I'm not going to purchase an extended warranty and I'm sure that with the problems I've had I should. I work in sales and our motto is "customer satisfaction" of which Chrysler knows nothing about. I have been insulted so many times by the service people telling me they cannot duplicate the problem that I'm sick. The only thing Chrysler has going for them is showy vehicles. But, when purchased with their hard-earned money most purchasers wind up with nothing more than an overpriced headache.


LXiSebring: I'm unclear on a number of things. Was this work all done under warranty? If so, what money have you spent on it? If you had a repair for the same problem unsuccessfully completed after 3 attempts, your state's lemon laws apply, and you should check into that. Does your Chrysler dealer carry non-Chrysler brands? If so he may be willing to swap for something else. Also, you dealer may be willing to exchange your car for a "slightly used" Non-Chrysler vehicle such as something from Ford or GM of a similar age & miles. Did you have something specific you were interested in trading for? Ask your dealer.

In general, trade in values on Sebrings are very high and they are much sought after. and 5 year old Sebrings with low milage still bring $10,000 and up. A 98 Sebring LXi wiht leather is listed at a dealer in my area this week at $16,988.

Michael writes

My name is michael robinson. I live in edgewood Md. I have a black 1997 SebringLXi, with leather wood grain, I have tinted the windows, to 20 % all the way around, put on yellow side marker lights, and put a sun roof spoiler on it to keep debris out of my back tray. I am interested in and sites or info where I can get more custom, or performace, parts, or assesories, crylsters web site does not have anything. any help would be greatly appreciated. I wish I had a scanner so i could give you guys a pic of my Bring. not to many people "hook up" sebrings. I am also interested in the clear tail lights. thank you.


WalkerD writes

My Sebring is a 95', color is silver mist, LXi. of course but I want to be a member of the sebring club.

LXiSebring: You are in! Your car is hte same color/model/year as mine!


Renee

I have a 1995 Sebring and in August 1999 after having my car one month I started having problems with it. The dealership finally decided that the gas had water in it and that was that. Now about a year later it began idling high and then finally just stalled out and couldn't get started again. Long story short, I had to have a new sending unit put in and there was also a high amount of water was found in the gas tank once again. This has ruined several other parts. I am trying to find out if any other Sebring owners have had problems with water getting into the gas tank or is this just simply coincidence that I have gotten bad gas from to different corporations. Any information or advise you may have on this matter would be appreciated.

LXiSebring: Water in gas is likely due to bad gas--Use a top brand with an alcohol-additive lich Chevron with Techron. Cheap gas is often of variable quality.


Chris writes

I am looking for someone with the same model year I have. And I have finally found them. I have a '95 LXi. And am FAR from happy with it. First off, I have the "PREMIUM" Infinity sound system in there, and had to replace the right-front dash tweeter TWICE since I've owned it ($90 each) and its on the verge of blowing AGAIN. The headliner at the top edge of the windshield is separating from the foam backing. The steering wheel is dry-rotting like you wouldn't believe, the 12 o'clock position is horrible. My check engine light has been on for months now even after an oil change AND a tune-up. The driver side (exterior) door handle broke off in my hand, dealer wants $125 to fix it. There is a faint grinding noise in the front end someplace as I come to a stop. (Typical of any Chrysler product I've heard) The car is well passed its factory warranty, so you know why I haven't paid to get these things fixed by a dealer. Imagine my disappointment after trading in a 1992 R/T Twin Turbo Stealth on this bucket of bolts. I kick myself daily. I don't expect you to do anything, I just thought you might like to hear someone's horror story. Feel free to put this on your page. Thanks for listening...

LXiSebring: I havent had any of these problems. Is your car parked out in bright sun a lot? Many of these sound like they may be related to too much interior heat. If the check engine light comes on, there is a diagnostic code stored in the computer as to why. Often its an emmission sensor that is bad.


Shaggs writes

Hello there, my name is Mike and i am the proud owner of a 1995 Chrysler Sebring LX, it has all options except alloy wheels, sunroof and leather. It has 55,000 miles on the odometer, and overall, i am extremely pleased with the car. But alas, I have had my troubles. Lately in the morning when i start it up, the idle is rough, is that normal? Also when im at a stoplight sometimes ill just be sitting there and the revs drop a bit, and the car will shake a little, who knows why...any assumptions? And a while back when i would step on the gas the car would hesitate to move, the dealership noted that the throttle body needed to be cleaned, and it seemed to do the trick, it runs great now. Also i noticed in the owners manual, there is supposed to be a light for when you get low on gas, its supposed to come on and that means you should get gas. But i have never seen the light come on when i first start the car up(usually all the instrumentation lights, well, light up). Maybe im dreaming, but isnt it supposed to come on? Other than that, I love the car, no transmission problems, no engine failure, i take care of all the cars i own meticulously. Hopefully you can give me some answers to the questions I have asked, I appreciate your website, its really helpful, thanks!

LXiSebring: I've asked eric for advice on your set of problems


PITCHLYNN writes

Hi, I just purchased a 98' Sebring with 500 miles left on factory the warranty and 34,000 or two years left on the extended warranty. Do you know if the dealership will fix this problem. If not what is the repair price. Any info would help. Thanks

LXiSebring: My guess is the 36000 mile warranty will cover that but check with a dealer


ROBERT SMITH writes

is it true that there is a turbo chip for the sebring if so where can i purchase it

LXiSebring: I dunno but the guys at www.asog.net probably do


David Sexton writes

Hi David ! I have purchase a 1998 Sebring LXI two years new. The very day that I drove off with the car from the car lot, I have had nothing but trouble with the doors leaking air ,and letting water in from outside.Also the door molding would keep crushing between the door jams. I have return the car to the dealer about this problem, he stated ,that there dealer did not have a body shop, and that I would have't to take it to another Chrysler dealership. I have replaced the passenger door panel 5 times since new . The last time that I went to pick the car up,the passenger window would not roll up or down,and that where they had painted the molding, I open the door and the rubber was stuck to the bottom of the door jam and pulled the rubber off. I called and talk with a Chrysler rep. from this area,and they told me that I would have't to take it back to them, for the sixth time, I refused to do so, and asked for another body shop to work on it. Their reply was that I could not do so. Now that the warranty has ran out,I'm on my own for the repairs. I don't think much about the Chrysler Corp.,or there service dept.

LXiSebring: The large cladding panels have been a headache to keep attached, but you also were got bad body work done. Usually Chrysler will let you get body work done at any authorized body shop. Thats weird One of my panels came loose shortly after I got the car. I had it replaced 5 years ago and have had no further problems with it. I understand the clips on the 98-00 models are different & seem even more problematic, however. CHeck your state's lemon laws. 5 attempts to fix a body panel under warranty would kick them in.


Jenni writes

My name is Jenni and I own a 1997 Sebring LXi Coupe. I must say that I have owned many.....cars in the past, both new off the lot and older. When I decided about a year ago that I needed a new style of car I listed everything I desired in a vehicle. I was looking for something flashy, sporty, and with enough room for our son. When my husband aquired my list of "wants" he found a Sebring with the exact specifications I indicated. My husband came by my workkplace with a beautiful black Sebrling. We bought the car that day. I honestly love my car. This is the first car which has had everything I have wanted.


Maurick Armstrong writes

Here is my 1995 sebring. It is an LXi with 100200 miles on the speedo. I have had minor transmission problems but other than that I have had no trouble with it at all. She has an all new stereo system and headlight covers. I am looking for some taillight covers if anyone knows where I can get some.

P.S. I love the site


Jimmy writes

I am a sebring lx owner, 1998, I bought the car new , and ever since it hit 4000 miles, I have this surging with the engine, as I am stopped at a light, the rpm goes down to 600 and the engine shakes, but never stalled, I brought it too the dealer 2 times, and they cleaim nothing i swrong with it, the car has 21.000 miles now and is still doign the same thing, do you have any idea what this could be??

Eric says:

.....Transmission needs reprogrammed. Fill the car up with 87 octane gasoline, disconnect the battery,reconnect after 10 minutes, drive the car hard allowing it to come to smooth, complete stops at signs and lights.


Fergus Purton writes

I am wondering if you could help me..... I have a 96 Sebring LX ... and though I love the car and its handling...I Have one problem... When it is raining (or when the car is wet) and if u open the windows a Little the lack of a rain channel allows water to drip in the window .... I have been looking of rain deflectors to get rid of the problem but to no Avail .... If you know of any such rain deflectors please advise me Thanking you in advance

Eric says: .....Look for parts under Dodge Avenger. You will find them almost anywhere.


Joe Pennington writes

I own a 1995 sebring LXI coupe. it has 120,000 miles and is starting to give me problems. i had to replace a valve cover and a switch on the air conditioning compressor. While having this work done, they discovered a leak on my water pump and said that i need to get it replaced. also, my "Anti Lock" light is on in my car. they traced that problem back to the computer and said to take it to the nearest dealer to get it check out. Are these problems normal? To get the ABS fixed could be expensive. Have you heard of others having ABS problems and if so, what is usually the problem and how much does it cost to get that fixed? thanks for your help

Eric says

.....ABS is a supplementary system, the brakes will operate without the ABS. Valve cover gaskets are normal problems, Heck 120,0000 is throw away milage for most cars. Keep it going.


Richie Dio writes

I would like to first say "thank you" for such an informative website for Chrysler Sebring Coupe owners. I have certainly learned a lot from the message postings.

I currently own a 2000 Chrysler Sebring LXi, ice silver metallic in color, purchased in September of 1999, with 17,000 miles now driven. I love so many things about the car, yet hate almost as many (love/hate relatoinship). Of course, like many owners, the ticking noise from the shifting solenoid pack has bothered me quite a bit (although I seem to be getting used to the noise). In addition, the automatic gear-shifting is nice and smooth when accelearting, but jerky when decelerating and coming to a stop (is that normal?) Overall, I feel that the car's sharp looks make up for it's performance weaknesses.

Getting more specific, I have noticed in my car some poor quality problems (mentioned by some other owners with respect to their cars). Just thought I'd share some and ask if you have any tips or suggestions on how to reduce them.

(1) My rear view mirror shakes noticeably, especially when the car is moving at speeds over 50 mph. Over 65mph, I can hardly make out the car(s) in back of me (e.g. Is it a cop or another commuter like myself?). Is there a way to tighten this mirror so that it stays still? With the compass and electronic dimming device as part of the piece, I'm not quite sure how to fix this problem I'm having.

(2) As mentioned by one or two other Sebring owners in the club, I am also hearing a rattling sound from within my dash board (like something large and metallic in nature??). It may even be coming from high in the engine compartment. The noise is centered, It seems, above the middle console with houses the AC knobs, vents, etc. It may also be coming from above the Passenger SRS, but certainly not from the driver side. What could this noise be? The rattle, which sounds when the car goes over bumps, shotty pavement, or less-than-smooth roads, is driving me nuts!

(3) I also am now hearing a "cackling" sound coming from under my car, particularly when the car is stopped with the brakes applied. The noise, interestingly, disappears when I release the brakes or place the car in park. What could this be? BTW, this cackling sound is not the "ticking" sound of the solenoid pack that we Sebring owners have grown accustomed to.

(4) When the car is first started every morning, I hear a faint "pumping" noise for approximately 10-15 seconds, after which time it fades and disappears. What is that sound due to? Is it the fuel pump? Is it a malfunction?

Like other owners, I have my share of scratches and scrapes under the front bumper and even had the privelege of not being able to start my car one day (with only 7,000 miles logged); with some fancy foot maneuvering of the gas pedal, I was able to get the car started however (low pressure from loose gas cap perhaps). On

a positive note, the Infinity sound system is amazing and the car turns many heads. I always keep it clean, including the engine compartment, and run the car with synthetic Mobil-1 oil. With this oil, I notice better gas mileage, improved idling, and less or no hesitation when the car "takes its first step" in the morning.

Thanks for your input and keep up the good work.

Eric says :

.....That pumping noise is the ABS system doing it's routine check. The Ticking under the hood is the EGR valve, The crackling noise in the brakes is the hardware on the calipers, I'd replace all the brake clips and lube both sides. Also lube the metal backing on the brake pads. Use a high temp. silicone grease. Try to tighten your rear view mirror if possible. Always use 87 octane gasoline.


Anne Brown writes

I hope I am writting to the correct person. I beleive that I received mail from you concerning my Sebring Coupe and the problems I was having with the A./C freezing up. You recommended that I get a letter of intent from the dearlership since this is one of the delay tactics that is usually used.

Well we are still going around and around. They have installed the first 'field fix' but now instead of freezing up it is really cold and then really hot. Mitsubishi is making another fix to try. Everyone has said that yes I qualify for the lemon law, but it I get the State's Atty General involved then it takes alot longer and Chrysler will back out and leave me hanging. Any suggestions?

Thanks for you advice. I hope I am writting to the right person,

Eric says

.....Thanks for the update keep us posted. Dave runs the page I'm just the tech. guy.


Tracy Rodgers writes

Hi Dave, I was thrilled to find your site on the internet and I'm hoping you can shed some light on my situation. I have a white/silver 1995 Sebring and the door panels are my problem. My silver door panels keep falling off. For the 1.5 years I just put them back on, then 2 years ago I took it into the dealership because they both fell off and got damaged so they ordered new ones, painted them and put them on. This past weekend my passenger side door panel fell off on the highway and got ran over by 3 cars so needless to say it's ruined. I called my dealer and they don't want to replace it because my car is over warranty and I have 65k miles on my car. I have spoken to another person I work with and she's had the same exact problem. I was wondering if you knew anyone with this type of problem before I bypass my dealership (Sport Chrysler, Norristown, PA) and go directly to the main Chrysler office. I'm really ticked off and I refuse to pay to have it fixed but I'm sick of driving my car around looking like crap. If you have any suggestions, they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

LXiSebring says

Complain to NHTSA as they are trying to determine how common this problem is--see letter and e-mail address at top of website.


BSVANDAM writes

I enjoyed your site on the Sebring coupe. I am currently very distressed over my 1995 Sebring coupe, having been told by my mechanic it needs a new engine at 60,000 and 5 years old! The car recently overheated and was taken to my mechanic. He put in a 2nd thermostat (in 2 months) and had to replace the radiator. This is when he advised the engine probably had 20,000 miles left on it if I was "lucky." He advised putting synthetic oil in it to increase life and advised me to get rid of the car now while it is still running. A new engine must be sent in to be rebuilt (you can't find them) and the car would be in the shop for over a month. The cost of a new engine is $5,000. This is the 3rd Sebring he has seen with this identical problem in the last 2 months. Have you heard anything about this? My mechanic is ACE certified, and has long been a trusted mechanic on my car and my family's cars. I purchased an extended warranty at time of original sale which expired at 50,000 or 5 years, so it is no longer in effect. I have written Chrysler a letter, but have not had a reply yet. I've taken impeccable care of the car, it has been religiously taken in for oil changes and other maintenance. It's really a bummer! Well, thanks for listening!

LXiSebring Says: Have a Chrysler 5-star dealer check this diagnosis

response

Thanks, I am going to do that. I am sort of hoping Chrysler will write me back and authorize this type of check-out by the dealership. If I get a negative (or no) reply from Chrysler, I still plan to call the service dept. and have them give a 2nd opinion. As a single mom or two boys in college, there isn't alot of money floating around for this type of thing! So I am hoping for a decent response from Chrysler. I should tell you that last fall, my mechanic suggested I take a $1200 repair job to Chrysler (even tho I was slightly over the 50,000 warranty), which I did, and Chrysler repaired and paid for it. The guy was bang-on as to exactly what was wrong with it at that time, and basically saved me (and cost himself) $1200 -- but -- you're right -- I sure hope there's a chance he may be wrong this time. Thanks!!


Pat writes

I am part of club dsm as well and I alwats enjoy talking with the guys on those pages. as far as my new car, it is all white, an automatic, cloth interior that is grey with a woog grain center. what is the club address? I would love to hear what somepeople have done to these cars as far as perfomance accessories are concerned, I am addicted to makeing thing fast! Example: My 93 talon turns out mid 10's in the quarter and I drive it to work everyday before I boutgh this car, now it is it's turn, I am playing with the idea of a intercooled twin turbo system, but I am not sure the 2.5 will stand up to it, that is why I am looking for some addvice on the weak points of the this engine, crank, connecting rods, etc. thanks for the space I will send a pic as soon as I give it a bath. it still has those ugly, to me anyhow, factory 17 wheels on there but as soon as I can find a set I like they will be added. sorry if I sound like some young punk, I am kinda young at 24 but I take my sunday racing pretty serious, my talon is ranked in the top 25 in the nation, and has been in advertised by venom and accelerated accessories. looking forward to making some stuff for these cars and maybe some of the guys and gals will be interested in buying someif it from me, open air intake systems, and stuff like that. I found with some creativeness, a welder, and some input about the cars, anything is possible thanks for all the space once again


Maryjean Tornello writes

I wrote you a couple of weeks ago about my rough idle problem. I thought that the new wires and plugs would fix the problem but it's just getting worse. Can you suggest anything before I spend $700.00 to have the cylinders cleaned? Someone suggested checking the throttle sensor position. Does this make sense to you? I'll be grateful for any help you can offer. I love my car but at this point I'm just ready to give up and trade it in.

Eric says: .....I would check to see if there are codes. If your engine light is not on, maybe try Amaco 87 octane gas and always use the stock spark plugs from the dealer.

Maryjean says:

We checked and there were no codes. I have been using 87 recently when I was told that anything higher would be no good for the engine. I had been using 89 octane. As far as the spark plugs, what is the reason for only using stock. I'm not sure, but I'll bet my mechanic did not use stock plugs. He actually has the car again today (the second time this week). He checked the throttle position sensor and that checked out ok. Today he's replacing the distributor cap and rotor.

Wish me luck! If this doesn't work....I'll be car shopping at the nearest HONDA OR TOYOTA dealer this weekend!

Eric says: .....I would check to see if there are codes. If your engine light is not on, maybe try Amaco 87 octane gas and always use the stock spark plugs from the dealer.


Paula writes

Hi David - your car is sharp! My son is thinking of getting one this week. A 1995 LXi in silver also. We wondered if you could email us with the information as to what is standard features for a 1995 Sebring LXi? Your input is desparately needed ASAP. Thanks a bunch. Also what is it called when your body is black but silver on the lower panels? Thanking you in advance. Paula


Patricia Thompson writes

I found a '95 Sebring (LX Model with v6) with 65kmi for 7,500$. Have you had good luck with your sebring? I have heard lots of good and bad things about chryslers. I am 17 and will not have a bunch of money to spent on part if things go wrong. I really like this line of cars and will be using it for school. I think the engineers at chrysler really out did them selves when it come to styling. The main thing I am looking for is a reliable car. Thanks


Lori A. Clark writes

Because of the low front design of this vehicle, I have hit many parking curbs causing the front to be bent and scraped. I believe this is a defect in design and I am sure this situation has arose in the past. To get this front low bumper replaced its like $600. do you know of any other situations like this?


Stacy writes

I have been experiencing some a strange problem with my 1997 Chrysler Sebring convertible and I was wondering if you had heard of this problem from other Sebring owners. I have about 40,000 mile on my car and I have it serviced at the dealership on a regular basis.

For the past few weeks I have had a few instances where after driving my car for several minutes I will stop at a stop sign and then accelerate to proceed and my engines dies! This has happened to me a number of times.

I have taken my car to my dealership and I left it with them for over two weeks while I went out of town. They have run diagnostic tests and test driven the car but it all checks out fine. And of course, the car did not act up when the service people were driving my car. In the most recent situation I went to start my car and it wouldn't start. I then started my car and flooded the engine which did the trick. Then while driving, just a few minutes later my engine died! I restarted my car and it was fine.

This problem is so random, yet my dealership hasn't found anything wrong with the car. I was hoping you might have some insight ... is this a problem you have heard of with Sebrings or even Chryslers for that matter.

Please let me know I'd be interested in your response.

Also, from time to time, when my brakes are cold the screech rather loudly. I have had my breaks inspected and even cleaned the drums in the rear breaks, but my front breaks still screech. Again, I'm wondering if you have heard of this problem with other Sebrings or Chryslers.


POWDERSVIL writes

I have just bought a 97 Sebring LXi Coupe yesterday from Carmax ! It has 40,000 miles and looks like a new showroom car! I paid $14,598 for it ! Did I do OK so price wise?

While driving the car yesterday on the interstate hwy with the salesman in the car, I asked him what the whineing noise was that I was hearing and he insisted that it was the low profile tires on the car and not the car!

After making the deal (in which I have 5 days or 250 miles in which I have to return it) I drove again up the interstate hwy and noticed that the noise is not tire notice after all but it seems to be in the engine. When I mash the gas, even lightly, the whining noise starts and when I let up on the gas it stops! I put in crusie mode and it whines when pulling and not when coasting! Has this been a problem for many Sebrings? If so, has there been a recall to fix it?

They offered an extended warranty for $850.00 12 mos/ 12,009 miles for the bumper to bumper coverage wth a $25.00 deductible! Is this a good thing or a rip off! The Carmax people cover it for 30 days and then I have 11 months or 12 M miles which will come much faster than the 12 th month! I average about 2300 miles per month in driving!

What gas milage can I expect and which brand and grade of gas is best for this caar?

I need your response ASAP as I am considering taking the car back if they can't or won't fix the whining noise! I must act very fast onthe return policy!

Eric Says

.....Always use 87 octane gasoline. I bet the whine is either the transmission which is normal if faint, or the shifter cable which produces a rattle that resonates into the cabin. To check if it's the cable put a little pressure on the shift lever while in gear (towards N or 2) and see if it goes away. Mine whines under light throttle at about 65 and goes away at 50 or 75 but it's faint.


M Cavicchia writes

My name is Marie Cavicchia, I'm 51 yrs. old, & recently moved to FL from OH. I have owned a ' 96 Sebring LXi for almost 2 years. It had been leased to an attorney for 2 yrs. I was hunting for a nice used car to travel in & had been to every dealer in my area & just nothing really "WOWED" me.

I was coming home from my daughter's house one evening & was going by the nearest Chrysler dealer. I was looking over & in between a van & truck sat this Black Diamond. I just about broke my neck doing a double take. I screeched to a halt, got out of my old car & instantly fell in love. There she sat under the lights just shining like a diamond. I checked out the interior & everything else I could see & then decided that the minute the dealer opened the next morning I was going to be there.

I tried not to act too interested, but it was sooooooo hard. In fact I tried to ignore it until the salesman said " How about something like this?" My heart just ablut jumped out of my chest, & i'm sure he could hear me breathing heavily when I said, What is it?"

You see I had owned a 1974 Olds 442 Black w/red racing stripes, louvered hood & heavy duty sports suspension. I also have always wanted a Corvette. Well, as far as I'm concerened I have the best of both.

My Sebring is Black/over Grey LXI package & sunroof. It has grey leather interior & looks "like it is moving even though it is standing still" ( a Monte Carlo owner told me. I love my car w/a passion. I have had nothing but complements on it. It is also a blast to drive.

Thanks for having this web site & thanks for letting me go on & on about my "Black Beauty"!

Eric says


Earl Lord writes

My Sebring is really nice too, except for what the dealer wants for a tune-up, $400, just for six plugs and wires....oh, the back three plugs are a little difficult to get to......it rides nice and smooth and gets 28.8 mpg...

LXiSebring: That sounds awfully high--what are they doing in the tune-up?


Todd writes

My name is Todd, and I'm 20 years old from Pittsburgh. I am thinking about getting a Sebring LXi. I'm looking at a '99 with 13k miles. They are gonna cut me a deal everything all together should come out to 17,500 or something like that...

Any pros and cons I should know about? I would really appreciate a reply...


Tallynurs writes

Thanks for your informative article, my 1995 Black/Gray Sebring has been a nightmare. I bought it used in February 1999 and repairs costs are already totalling $3,000! I went to open the door yesterday, and the handle broke. I meticulously take care of my cars, but I cannot afford to keep this one!!!

LXiSebring: What repairs have you had to do?


RAng1954 writes

I put gas in my car last nite and after about 10 minutes of driving the check engine light came on. I thought it had something to do with the gas cap because it says on the gas cap lid that if it was not put on tight the light would come on. I check the lid and it was tight now I don't know if this was a coincidence or not. If it was the gas cap how do I reset it without going to the dealer? Please let me know if anyone else has had this problem the car is running fine.

Eric Says: .....I would disconnect the negative battery terminal and reconnect after 10 minutes. This will clear the light.


J P writes hey eric, I like the website... keep up the good work. hey I just wanted to write you about my Sebring, I haven't really found or heard of another one like it out there yet. it's a 96 LX polo green,2.0 5 speed, I have 17" kaotik reactor wheels, 2 pump cce hydraulics with accumulators, suicide trunk(flips to the right), custom made billet grille for the mouth on the bottom of the bumper, custom painted tailights, remolded factory wing, air intake, and we are currently working on a custom stereo install consisting of all planet audio and tv and dvd. also I am working on tweed and vinyl interior too. I will e-mail pics as soon as I can get ahold of a scanner. well what do ya think? have you heard of anyone else customize this far? if so I would like to hear about it or if you have a link to a page that would be cool. well thanks and i hope to hear from you soon.

LXiSebring: There are two of us on the site. LXiSebring (David) manages the site and the mail and Eric answers the tech questions and is particularly good at the ones that stump LXiSebring (David). Most any copy shop will scan your pics for you for a nominal cost so we can all see.


Stephen Parker writes

I have a polo green 1998 Sebring Coupe LXi. One thing I have been looking for is any type of engine upgrades. (i.e. horsepower, etc.) since 167hp just doesnt seem to be enough for a sports coupe. Now, that I see the sebring coupe will have 200hp standard, im a bit jealous. I do, however, absolutely love my car. Attached is a picture. Thanks for including me on your website and if you or anyone else you know may have answers to my questions, I would appreciate it if you could direct me to the appropriate place. Thanks again


Justin Zimmermanwrites

Hello from Seattle, WA. Hey first off great site, I learned a lot about my car and feel halfway better about ripping the front end of my car off since it seems to be a common mistake. I have been looking for the part number for the PIAA lights to my car for a long time, thanks for that also. Anyway I did something you might find interesting to the interior. Next to the cupholder where that worthless storage space (or ashtray) is, I built a little thing out of bondo, wood, metal, and a few other things to make a cellular phone holder, then routed the antenna across the interior roof, down seat belt column, and under the carpet up past the airbag sensor into the holder, looks sharp and functional since there isn't really anyplace else to mount it. See Photos on photo page by clicking here


Alex Has new pics of his black custom Sebring on The Photo page


richdio writes

The stats of my new 2000 Sebring LXi Coupe are below:

2000 Chrysler Sebring LXi Coupe
Exterior Color: Ice Silver Metallic Clear Coat
Interior Color: Black / Grey
Engine: 2.5L V6 SOHC 24V SMPI
Radio: Infinity 6-speaker AM/ FM Cassette/ CD/ Equalizer
4-Wheel Disc ABS Brakes, Sunroof, .....no modifications done yet on the car.
Mileage: 17,000; Purchased in September of 1999


Tom writes

My 1998 Sebring has a 17 inch rim which came with the Goodyear low-profile tires. After 20,000 miles, they needed replacing. Tire dealers around town gave a cost of ~$850/4 tires and still no warranty beyond 20,000 miles. Fortunately, Chrysler replaced my tires for free without a really good explanation why! I want to eliminate this expense and low tire mileage by either going to a 16 inch rim or, as the Chrysler dealer told me, put non low-profile tires on the 17 inch rim! I've also been told the Sebring's suspension must have the H size tires. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Eric responds

...I run the next smaller size 205/55/16. I have a pair of Bridgestone Turanza's and they wear like steel. I'd buy another pair in a second.


Tom Watkins writes

Can I use self tapping screws on the front bumper of the 98 Sebring?

Eric responds

...To attatch a plate? I'd use the bracket kit available at any local dealer. Or maybe your rying to fix a damaged front facia? In that case some sheet metal and self tappers would probably work.


Chad writes

I have a 99 Sebring LXi with the Infinity sound system. I recently installed an Alpine CD Head unit into the car and am experiencing a loud whine from my speakers. So I figure - ok, bad ground. So I get a heavy duty noise filter and slap that baby on and STILL THE WHINE! Any thoughts?

Eric says ...If you replaced the speakers,check the OHM impedence to see if they match. Should be 8 or 4 OHMS this is on the back of the speakers. Did you mess with the wiring? Switch to the stock unit,see if the whine persists. If it does you may need new spark plug wires. Believe me this happens a lot.


Jeff writes

Hi, My girlfriend has a '97 Sebring coupe and the bottom of the front bumper is always scraping the ground when going up driveways & now it finally cracked. A friend of mine also has a '99 Sebring coupe with the same problem. I'm sure Chrysler hasn't recalled what must be a common problem. Can it be fixed and prevented from happening again ? Your feedback will be greatly appreciated. Thank-you.

Eric says... The car is low, can't fix that. I'd suggest taking a new driving approach. First off, enter any steep grade at a 45 degree angle to introduce the tire before the front end. Also I back into any space that has a tire stop, they are always high enough to smack the front end. Finally if you say to yourself "gee thats higher than a pop can", Don't drive over it. Good luck to you.


Tammy writes

I am a new owner of a 1997 Chrysler Sebring. I have always liked the style of the vehicle and now I finally own one. I bought the vehicle used from a Toyota dealership on June 7, 2000. The first mechanical problem I encountered was when it died when I pulled into the dealership on the morning of June 9, 2000. I was returning the vehicle to the dealer for new front tires and an alignment. I picked up the vehicle Friday evening and went out of town for the weekend driving from MD to PA (250 miles) then from PA to Washington DC and back to MD on June 14th. I went out the morning of the 15th to start the car to go to work and that's is when the real problems started.

When the vehicle is cold started it won't idle. The tachometer goes up and down a few times then drops to 0 and the engine dies. Toyota picked up the car and had their techs look at it. They could not figure what was wrong with it and sent it over to a local Dodge dealer. After loading new software into a module and cleaning out the combustion chamber they felt the car was fixed.

The car continues to do the same thing. Toyota sent the vehicle to another dealer about an hour away. They loaded new software into a module and cleaned out something (they thought the vehicle was in fine working condition after that). Their next opinion was an adjustment to the throttle linkage. That didn't work either.

A tech from Detroit was in to look at it and recommended that they take the intake off and clean the carbon deposits which are known to accumulate in the Sebrings. The techs were sure this was going to fix the problem. Today when I called them they gave me the same bad news that this did not work either. The car is running better, but not right. They were going to try a few other things to see if they can fix it. Has anyone else had this same problem? I have owned the vehicle now for 45 days and have only had it my possession for about 7 days. I am desperate as I cannot afford to trade out of the vehicle. The Toyota dealer won't even give me what I paid for it. I will loose about $2,800 in the transaction. Any recommendations?

Eric says

...I'd talk to a Service manager at another 5 star dealership and go from there. You could always get Chrysler involved if that doesnt work. Dealers hate seeing repeat complaints, so I just go elsewhere.


John Hammer writes

I am ready to change the plugs on my wife's '98 Sebring LXi Coupe, but I was wondering if you know of any online instructions for taking the intake off the engine to get at the back 3 cylinders. Before I tear anything apart, I want to make sure of what I'm doing. For that matter, I'm doing the front brakes on the car too...any tips there or is it pretty straightforward? Thanks for your help.

Eric says ...The 6 is not easy to work on. You could always change the front 3 and take the last 3 and the car to your mechanic and have him do it. I would personally take it to a dealer you trust and have them change them. By the way your car has platinum plugs should'nt need changed until 50,000 miles or so.


Anne writes, ...The A/C problem of freezing up after driving for an hour or so. Has anyone had this problem and what can be done about it. The dealership has tried twice to fix something that they don't know what is wrong. We will be back at the dealership on Monday. This will be our third time for the same problem. So we are looking at a Lemon Law concern. Any suggestions?

Eric says... ...I love this technique. Tell them you want a written letter of intent. "A WHAT" ??? Tell them you are keeping a record of the repair process to forward to Chrysler if necessary in the future. You are keeping all correspondance including what they intend on doing to your vehicle when it is in for service. You will see an instant attitude adjustment.


GQ writes

I own a tan 96 LXI sebring I add a woodgran kit 2 set me apart of the other 96 models out there I have two 15" pioneer 600 WTTS. a pic. speakers with a Punch amps which is what i need 2 push them. hey my Sebring hit a speed bump and now my front is down what should I do It looks all open like a fish mouth can i buy a peace or do i have 2 replace the entire front bumer? what sould i do

The bumper is all one piece and you have no choice but to replace it. Your comprehensive insurance should cover the cost of replacement.


Robert Amiscaray writes

Hey I just wanted to say great site. I own a 97 Bright White Lxi (Stock No modifications - except for a few shop replacements)

But in response to peoples cars dying it's not the battery it's the connection to the positive terminal of the battery. I found this out as my car was dying even though I took it to the shop multiple times. They just kept on replacing the battery and replaced the starter. But I happened to go to Auto Zone and they connected that stupid battery jumper to my car and it wouldn't start. Well I got kind of pissed and jiggle the wires and what do you know - the lights dimmed if I lifted the wire and the beeping of my car door being open stopped and I couldn't start my car. If I bent the stupid wire down, my car light turned on and the car beeping came back and I could start my car. I took it to the dealership and had them check and fix the wiring and fix it and ever since then it works like a charm. I think only so many people experience this because by luck you have the one just bent enough to make the connection loose.

But I still have 1 serious issue. If I hit the stupid hazzard button due to emergencies, my turn signals will no longer work and a few other weird things. I then have to press the emergency button in syncronous with the turn signal in order to get it back working??? Short circuit????. I have had the Turn signal and Hazzard switches replaced on 3 different occasions but it's still a no go?

Other than that It's been 3 idiots that have hit my Sebing to make it a living hell. It's been in a shop a lot, but it still looks good and works good after being fixed. Drove it to California from Colorado and back and the oil was still a nice golden brown (I still got the oil changed though) Perfect all the way to California 3000+ miles round trip.

I treat my car like it's a baby. I make sure I have a clean CD before using the CD Player and that the tapes have no extra stuff on them either. I have put 40000 on my car and I just get stares from everyone still. I have question though. Which K&N Airfilter is used with the Sebring? A mitsubishi Air Filter or a Chrysler Sebing?

Oh yeah I seen a question about from Harmon More in regards to being in 3rd gear at 4000 rpm. It drops to 4th. If you step on it - gas all the way down, it will shift back down to 3rd or 2nd depending on how fast your going. If you punch it - it will keep going I gotten to 120 in my Sebring. Oh yeah, the only minor bad thing that I can point out about the Sebring is it's 4 gear shift - it's slow. But again I love my sebring. Hey again, great site and very informative. Sincerly,

LXiSebring: Maybe a few battery problems are connector-related but I've gone thru two batteries and both had bad cells. Not sure about air filters--they should be the same whether purchased at Mitsu or at Chrysler dealer.


Maryjean writes

I've written to your site before with problems I was having concerning the brakes and rotors on my 97 LX. Well finally after 7 sets of rotors, I think my dealership finally hit on the solution. Apparently, after getting some advice from the Chrysler rep they deal with, they tried a brake pedal adjustment. For some reason, if the pedal is not adjusted precisely right, it will somehow put pressure on the caliper and therefore never completely "release" the caliper. Ever since doing this adjustment and changing to a softer brake pad the problem has seemed to go away (I'm keeping my fingers crossed!). Although I've had luck with this problem, I now have a new one. My car has been running really rough at idle and jerking when rolling slowly forward or backing up. The dealer said that it was carbon in the cylinders and 3 of them are misfiring. They cleaned the throttle body (85.00), then they did a fuel line cleaning (100.00), then they told me that because that didn't work they would have to manually clean the cylinders for $700.00! They promised that the sparkplugs and wires were checked twice and they were in good condition. Just to be sure I took my pride and joy to a private mechanic and he immediately noticed that the wires were shot and the spark plugs were overdue for replacement. I guess my point is: be very wary of dealer service departments- this was a Chrysler Master Tech who made this blunder!!!! Get a second opinion - always !!

LXiSebring: But did the new plugs & wires fix the problem?


In response to dholcomb's question about Sebring problems, Eric says... Seems to me like people either have transmission problems or they dont. The brakes need regular 20k maint. and tire balance is a big issue. The car is very smooth and quiet. I find that it is roomy, although the pedals could be further away from the steering wheel. It's not a rocket but handling and MPG easilly make up for that. The best overall car I have ever owned. 75k and not a glitch.


jlutz writes

I checked the PCM code 1 pause 2 pause 2 pause 1 pause 5 pause 5. Is this 12, 12 and 12? please help, I sunk $ 1000 into the car at the dealer a few months ago and can't afford a repeat. My side panels come loose also, has this been resolved with Chrysler yet? How do I reset the check engine light on the dashboard? Also, what grade of gasoline is recommended? I think this issues combined may be my problem. Thanks for any help you can offer.

Eric says ...codes 12 , 21 ,55 12 is battery disconnect,I believe 21 is an O2 sensor, and 55 is end of test. If you want to clear codes you can pull the 30 amp breaker under the hood marked (ENGINE/MOTOR) or disconnect your battery and reconnect. Pulling the fuse will keep your radio stations. I'd reccomend Amaco 87 for your everyday driving. The fix for the panels is to replace and repaint, your dealer should have info about that, it's very common.


Rob Seidenglanz II writes

I am writing to tell you that I just ordered a 2001 black lxi coupe. I am looking to gets some black rims and I wondered if you knew of some rim shops with black rims. I'm having trouble finding places that sell them. Also, I wondered if you knew the wheel dimensions of the new 2001 coupe. I'm not sure what questions to ask when I do find some cool ones. I'm thinking that 18 X 8 are the biggest I can go, but I'm not quite sure. Thanks for your help. I'm stoked there is a site like this. Keep it up.

LXisebring. dunno but the guys at ASOG might know


Michelle writes

I am currently in a lease with a Red 1999 Sebring LXI that I am looking to sell for $17,000 OBO. My car has leather, CD, sunroof, etc. and currently has 24,000 miles. My car is in excellent condition. Please call me if you know of anyone who might be interested in purchasing my vehicle at 614-851-8902.


LEslinger writes

I purchased my red 1999 sebring coupe in March of 1999. I have had nothing but trouble with it. My husband noticed a noise in the transmission in July of 1999 so I took it to the garage. They said nothing was wrong. In November of 1999 the rearview mirror switch quit working ( nothing major, but another trip to the shop). Two weeks later in November my 'service engine light soon' came on. The sparkplugs and wires were replaced. In January of 2000, the SELS came on again, this time, it was the intake manafold gasket. It took almost two months to have it replaced. Next, Februrary of 2000, the SELS came on again, this time the fuel injector was replaced. Next, the seatbelt 'stuck' so it was replaced. On Februrary 21, 2000 while it pulled into a restaurant's parking lot, my friend got out closed the door and the door panel fell off. April 17, 2000 I was turning left into oncoming traffic when the transmission cooling line blew. While I had it in the shop this time, I had them replace the cruise control because it didn't work either. Last, ( I doubt it) my transmission went out will I was going 55 MPH in bumper to bumper traffic. My question, does anyone think I have a lemon here? I contacted both my dealer and Chrylser and they told me they will continue to pay for the repairs of all parts while it is under warranty. THANKS FOR NOTHING CHRYSLER! I'm curious if anyone else is having any problems with the Sebring. I am very disappointed because I finally got a really sharp car just for me (I drove a 'mommobile for 20 years) and I can't even enjoy it because there is always something wrong with it. I would love to hear from anyone.Thanks much!

LXiSebring: Each state has a different lemon lawq so the rules vary. IN general the dealer must have made at least three unsuccessful attempts to fix the same problem,..not three different problems. I dont know if your situation qualifies or not. You can check.u


Lusifer writes

This is my 98 LXi. I put in an $2000 stero system in it. It has infinity kappa speakers in the doors, dash and rear windows. I have two 15" punch dvc's. And a 2300 Thunder MTX amp. Also a audio perfect crossover. I am fixing to put on after market rims . And also strobe lights in the front headlights. And tinting my windows


Kim Pavelec writes

Hi, I was hoping someone on this site could help my Mom! She now owns a 1997 Sebring that is having brake problems since she got it from the Dealer brand new. Her brakes fail on a regular basis. As well as they need to be replaced biweekly for about 2 months and the dealrship can't figure out how this is possible they told her even if she rode her brakes that they wouldn't wear out like this! The 1st one she owned was a 1995 Sebring that had as the Dealership in her hometown said was possessed and Chrysler bought back from her due to some chip malfuntioning causing the car to surge forward accelerating abruptly while driving and it also would decelerate also this went on for nearly a year before enough mechanics had this happen to them within 2 dealerships. Nothing was done until the Dealership owner was driving it and was almost in a serious auto accident due to the cars malfuntion. My question is has anyone else ever experienced any of these problems with this Beauty of a car. If anyone has any insight on these problemsplease contact me. I'm concerned for my Mom's safety.

Eric responds

Replace the master cylinder and all calipers & wheel cylinders.


Monicka Tam writes

Hey there! I own a 1995 Chrysler Sebring LXI coupe like Tony Mireles (your week feature) with 16" Chrome Neeper Aliens but I would really appreciate need some advicee on how or where I can have my frong bumper/grille fix cheap. The bottom is cracked due to I pulled up to the curb to close while parking in a spot and when I pulled out, the bottom was cracked. It is my 1st car and I love it! But it now has 60,000 miles on it and recently I've been recognizing some probs with it... such as my foglights doesn't work... something to do with the wiring I guess cuz I changed the bulbs.

Follow-up

thanks for the response of the cracked front bumper. I have gone out and checked out some estimates. Unfortunately, I was told that I would need to replace the entire front bumper which will cost $495.00 for the bumper which does NOT include labor costs, paint, etc. etc. etc.. I didn't think there would be a cheap way but I just thought I should ask. The cracked isn't really that bad. It's located on the bottom right lower corner and probably about 5 inches long. I tried used proxy to glue it together to make it better and it worked for awhile but with the rainy weather in good ol' Seattle, it doesn't quite help. :-) So eventually, I would need to just replace the entire bumper once I could find one in a junk yard or something because I would like to trade it in some day for the new 2001 Sebring sedan.

Eric says on the foglights ...Check the fuse it sould blow before any wires melt.


shane lammo writes

I have some nice pics of my sebring and I am trying to figure out how to get some pics to you. can you email me back and give me some info? any help would be great. thanks

LXiSebring: For nominal cost, copying shops like Kinkos will scan your photos for you . Then you can send the electronic copy to me as an e- mail attachment.


Fat adam writes

Hey there fellow Sebring owner! I've got one too, it's a 96 Lxi, Light Autumnwood, grey leather, moonroof, power seat(drivers), Cd/tape, 8 Infinity speakers and one amp, 31,000 miles, I love it,


Rosemarie writes

David, I own a 1997 Sebring Coupe LX, the Color is Pewter Blue.I love that Car.I would like to have different Wheelcovers for it.Do you know where to get some?


Ernest De Leon writes

David, I was wondering if you knew where I could purchase a model or die cast replica of the sebring coupe (1998-200) model. I have been looking, but I cannot find any. I would appreciate any help you could give. Thanks.

LXiSebring: I'm looking for one too, but I don't think there are any


jeffro writes

hey hows it going? I just got a 98 LXi was looking for some info on it and came across your page. It's got 42k miles and the only thing i can find wrong with it is the fog lights dont work. And as far as the front dragging put 225-50-17 on and that seems to help a little nice page but I would put the date of the letters on there take care now

LXiSebring--the newest letters for the year appear first each week. Stop by each week to see what is new.


Jay Lastinger writes

I own a 1999 Sebring LXi that has 20k miles to this point. I am having what appear to be standard brake issues. I am on my third set of rotors which need to be replaced again. I noticed the listed items to "permenantly fix brake issues". While I have faith in your list, I would prefer to have Chrysler pay for these items. How do you think I should proceed to resolve these issues? I really love my car and this is my only complaint in a year and a half.


Mark writes

My wife and I own a 1995 Chrysler Sebring LX, 2.5 Liter Six, Automatic and experienced the first problem with the ABS brake system yesterday.

I replaced the front brake pads two weeks ago and since that time we have made two 250 mile round trips to visit relatives with no apparent problems.

Yesterday my wife drove several miles, parked the car for several hours, came out and started the car. The ABS light came on a usual, went out and then came on continuously. She drove the car home and parked it in the garage.

One hour later she returned to the garage hearing a "whirring" sound which she said sounded like the fan on the radiator. Since the ignition was "off" and the sound persisted, she took the car to a BP Procare for analysis and they concluded the problem was not the radiator fan but instead the ABS Hydraulic Power Unit (pointing at the fuse box). It was running continuously.

They disconnected the battery for several minutes, reconnected the battery (REBOOT), found that the ABS light went out as usual, and test drove the car with no apparent problems. They deduced that the problem with the ABS Hydraulic Power Unit may require that the whole unit be replaced ($1500.00 in parts, and $500.00 (4 hours) in labor). We drove the car today with no apparent problem (no ABS light). The only indicator that there may be a problem is that when the car has been parked overnight or for many hours, the brakes squeek for the first couple of braking episodes and then work normally thereafter. I talked to our local NAPA parts store (I bought the brake pads there and have done so two other times in 85,000 miles) and they said they had no listing for ABS brake parts for the Sebring other than the Rotor Sensors. NAPA checked the listing for other similar Chrysler models (Concorde) and listed the following parts for the Concorde:

1) ABS Computer Control Module $154.00
2) Pump/Motor Pack $609.00
3) Valve $449.00
4) Remanufactured Hydraulic Assembly $519.00
5) Rotor Sensor(s) $104.00 (each)

My questions are:

1) Isn't it likely that, the "Hydraulic Power Unit" running without the ignition on and in an uncontrolled manner is a symptom of a manfunctioning Computer Controller ?

2) Why would I have to buy a whole new "Hydraulic Power Unit" ? and What is the "Hydraulic Power Unit" (I would think this is essentially the "Pump/Motor Pack) ?

3) Where can I get a schematic or parts break-down of the ABS system which hopefully helps me understand the separate "modules" in the system and buy the likely problem part, not the whole thing ?

I'm a mechanical engineer and have been for twenty-three years. I have a basic understanding of the ABS system and believe I'm about to be taken for a ride if I let BP replace what sounds to be the whole system.

Eric responds

...Your car will test the ABS system automaticaly the first time you apply the brakes each morning (backing out of the driveway) So listen for that. As far as your new pads go, lubricate every point where there is contact with the caliper (even the back of the pad) with a high temp silicone grease. This will silence the squeal. You may want to take the glaze off the pad and rotor surfaces with 400 grit sandpaper. Notice that the NAPA pads dont come with new clips. I suggest replacing the clips each time you do the pads. I even lubricate both sides of the clips as well.

Now 1. The ABS is a supplementary system, your brakes work fine without it.Why it was running with the car off is beyond me. The unit obviously works and I'd be more suspicious of a control module or sensor.

2. This is a Parts department thing. Your car is a Mitsubishi/Chrysler hybrid. I'm pretty sure Chrysler buys the ABS unit from Bosh in Germany. Lets just say a new muffler is $600

3. 2gnt.com is a great resource for Mitsubishi related questions. I'd check under 1000 DSM Q&A under manuals. Or buy a "Chrysler" repair manual from the dealer.

4. Have your car looked at by a Chrysler mechanic if your worried. Ask him to check for "PCM Codes" If he even blinks, just go somewhere else.


Chad Sprousewrites

I have a 1999 Sebring LXi. It is beautiful!!! Paprika with tan leather. The Infinity Sound System is great. The only problems that I have had are as follows:

1. When I apply the brakes the sound as if they are scrubbing or scraping.

2. The black glue from the inside of both doors drips on the plastic piece all the way across the piece.

3.The windshield wipers are scraping the windshield, I had them checked and were fine.

4. The brakes squeak constantly when NOT being applied when I apply they scrape.

5. The sunroof rattles sometimes, not a biggy.

I wish this car was as good to drive as it is pretty, then we'd have a Lexus! But what is your advice about all of these problems?????


ANN BROWN writes

A/C problem of freezing up after driving for an hour or so. Has anyone had this problem and what can be done about it. The dealership has tried twice to fix something that they don't know what is wrong. We will be back at the dealership on Monday. This will be our third time for the same problem. So we are looking at a Lemon Law concern.

Any suggestions?


Michelle Johnson writes

Hi.. I thought maybe someone here would be interested in hearing about my sebring. First off, I own a 1997 Sebring lxi (see photo above). It's champagne colored with matching rims. I very possibly own the only one like it because my car was taken back by Chrysler and test painted champagne in the factory to test for the next years cars. Originally it was black. It has all of the options i.e. leather seats, wood grain console, power everything, rear spoiler, the sensored automatic adjusting rearview mirror, cd player..etc. I don't have a scanner yet to send a picture, but I can mail in one. I don't know what else you would want to know. Feel free to email me at devils_angel_83@hotmail.com

There has been a strange sound,,kind of like a buzzing that the car has been making. It happens occasionally when I stop at a stop light, or when putting it in gear. You can really notice it at the drive thru. It doesn;'t always do it, and my husband says not to worry about it. I don't want to pay to take it in and have them tell me it's nothing. (the only chrysler dealer around here is 5star, but they talk to me like im stupid and I think it's because im female) Any advice for me?? I'd sure appreciate it.

Eric responds:

...Your car is just fine. That noise is the electronic transmission shifting solenoid pack, go tell your dealer that one..hehe.


Dan Trottier writes

hi there having a major problem with my sebring coupe check engine light keeps comiing on get a code for right o2 sensor stays at center have checked the sensor out on a scanner and seems to be switching rapidly from 100 to 900 mv so i say its ok now it came on a week later after i cleared the code so i said forget it and put a new one in man it cost me 85 bucks the wire is like 4 ft long well needless to say the light came back on any ideas maybe i have a wiring problem or possible computer? also seems to hesitate when cold at temps below 50 degrees car has 38000 miles any help would be appreciated

Eric Responds: ...I'd try a new brand of 87 octane gasoline first. I've seen this before. Try Amaco 87 if you can get it.


Robert Fedoruk writes

I own a 95 sebring LXi and Im pretty sure my oxygen sensor is gone in it.. im going to get it fixed but cant for about 2 weeks...pay week anyway is it in your opinoin bad to drive it with that not functioning properly????

Eric Responds: a bad O2 usually wont affect things that much. Just get it fixed as soon as you can.


James Strakal writes

My wife has a 96 Sebring LXi and recently the windshield washer light in The dash has came on. I filled the reservoir up but the light still Stays on. I even unplugged the battery for 20 sec. To erase the ecu. Nothing works can you help? And I would also like to know where I could Get some performance parts for her car along with oem parts. And one More thing her interior is wood grain dash is there a piece for the Center dash above the shifter to make it wood grain? It's currently Black plastic. Thanks.

Eric responds

Sounds to me like the washer level sender is bad,try unplugging it. I replaced that plastic bezel on mine $75, your dealer can get it. As far as performance goes..spending $1000 will get you maybe 10HP. Don't worry about it. Get a K&N filter and some NGK plugs, maybe some slotted front rotors, and your set.


JMMoudry writes

Hi there, I am the proud owner of a 1998 Sebring LXI...It is fully loaded with 17'' wheels and is Polo Green... So far not a scratch on her... Would like to receive the newsletter also....Thankyou,

LXiSebring: The only newsletter is what you see!


Blair Reiley writes

I have a 1999 Sebring Coupe which is runs fine, but the cladding is a nightmare. I have had it back three times to dealers for repairs. The radio has been replaced due to CD problems and the replacement does act up on occassion. I put a lot of mileage on the car (20,000 in one year). I like the ride but have concerns about Chrysler's future support for the car. Will parts be available and will mechanics be trained on it. It runs nice. Have you noticed that parts for this car (such as brake parts) are more expensive than other Chrysler parts. Why doesn't Chrysler support this car with sufficient advertising and dealer support. The dealer that sold me my car had in stock for months with no interest. It is a good car but one wonders if it is chrysler's lost son.

I think the plans at Chrysler are to give the whole Sebring line a lot of attention for the 2001 model year--what with the new Sebring Sedan as well. Expect to see ads that show the Sedan, Coupe and Convertible together.


Nyyrdbst writes

To: LXiSebring I own a 2000 Sebring LXi in Ice Silver Metallic. Does any body know where i can find exterior and interior accessories that go with the car. email me


Ron Craftwrites

Hi David, Nice to see easy access to comments on the Sebring,keep up the good work. My wife recently bought a 95 lxi,and I fell in love with it right away. I probably will drive it more than she does. Now here is the problem the car came with no owners manual, and I can not seem to locate one, or even one of the Haynes service manuals. I do all my own work on my vehicles, and I am having a problem with the alarm system going off for no reason, I am wondering if you have heard of anyone having a similar problem? Or even if someone can tell me how to disable it as pulling the fuse does not work. Any info would be greatly appreciated, Thanks Ron, Niagara Falls Canada.

LXiSebring: Owners manuals have a part number and your dealer should be able to order you one. The alarm is going off for no reason because the hood isn't holding down the security hood switch. The switch is along the edge of hood, passenger side. There is an indentation in the hood edge thats sposed to hold it down. Stick a wad of electrical tape in the indentation and your problem should be solved. It was a problen that haunted most 95 models.


Jim Lafleur writes

Daughter's 97 Sebring, bought new, is now on it's fourth battery. All tests negative by Chrysler dealers in Baton Rouge and Lafayette, La. All replacement batteries were, Chrysler brand, installed by dealer. How does one find the electical drain source? I have reported the problem to Chrysler prior to the expiration of warranty. They suggest a second opinion. Any technical thoughts? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanking you in advance for any help with this vexing problem.

Eric responds:

..I'd try another brand of battery. Autozone sells Duralast which are 3 yr. free replacement. If you think it is deffinatley draining check the security system. You could also feel the different fuses for heat after the car has set overnight. There are two fuse boxes remember, check the owners manual.


Michael Hegarty writes

I own a 1999 Chrysler Sebring LXi

LXiSebring: Tell us a little more about it.


John writes

I found your site by accident, looks good from all aspects. Saw Miss Heinsohn's complaint about not having the Headlights flash when she locks and unlocks the car. I found that watching the Interior light on the rear of the Console in the back seat, it gets Brighter, when the locks are actuated.


MCRAY writes

Hello, I've enjoyed visiting your web sight from time to time. My wife is wanting to sell her car, so I suggested sending you the info. Could you please list it on your page. Thanks,mcrayscray@cs.com 1995 Sebring LX coupe, V-6, auto, cruise, tilt, p/w, p/l, am-fm,cass.,31k. mi., rear spoiller, new tires, this car is like new and has been pampered, always garaged $10,900. obo. (209) 538-7104 or e-mail at mcrayscray@cs.com


Lou writes

Maybe you can assist me with some pronlems i have. Sometimes when breaking I feel a jerk in the car and the RPM gauge goes down then rises up like the trans is shifting hard. Also my moonroof and pasanger seat ar both ratteling is there something i can do fix this. also i have another question....where can i buy exterior acessories for my car or view them via the internet. Also, my sebring is the metaliac silver 2000 model. i was wondering what kind of lights i can put on there for the "mercedes" holegen effect. (those very bright white light). thank you

Eric responds

... Well your right it is downshifting, probably into first. It is best to come to an easy complete stop. This will allow for easy downshifts, and eventually your car will learn how to downshift properly. As far as the rattling goes, the sunroof rattle is normal, the seat you might have to tighten the mounting bolts.

...I run the SuperWhite Piaa bulbs in mine 9005,9006,H3 as far as body parts check ASOG those guys are into that stuff.


Bev Heitzer writes

I have a 1999 black Sebring LXi coupe with charcoal gray interior and the Infinity sound system. It has a moon roof and other routine LXi options. I bought it in August 1999 and have about 13,750 mile on it.


Mike Greenwald writes P Hi, I own a 96' Chrysler sebring LXi. I think I have had just about every problem one can have, but the funny thing is, I think for all the ones I have had, there are at least two other people who have been through the same thing. I have had that whistle, the dealership says there is a hole in the rubber around the front glass (not fixed yet), I have had to replace the brakes (2 times, I have 38,000miles), I have had my check engine light come one many times, I have had transmission problems (shifting stuck in 2nd gear), The cladding on the front fender is loose, and some other troubles. I love my car, I wish it was faster and all, but I really do like it. What can you do to make me feel better about my sebring? Mike


Tony Mireles writes

My '96 Sebring LXi is the best car I've ever owned. I have 17x7.5 Enkei rims with Dunlop 225/45R17 SP 9000 tires. I have also modified the intake, exhaust, plugs & wires, ignition, and stereo. I've been looking for a supercharger that fits the V6, but I have had no luck.


Peg writes

I purchased my car used a little over a year ago. I have always loved the impressive front grill. Mine is the Silver color with gray interior. I will be doing some modification to it down the road with a new, more impressive spoiler. I'm not any too crazy about the 2001 Sebring Coupes since they remind me of a large mouthed guppy similar to the newer Concordes. I plan on keeping mine as long as I can.


Beverly Heitzer writes

I don't know if you would consider this a technical problem. I love my 1999 Sebring LXi, but after owning it since August 1999 and putting less than 14,000 miles on it, I need new tires before it will pass PA state inspection! And the tires are not cheap. The best price I have found locally for this size of tire (21550R17) is the Goodyear Eagle RS-A, like those on the car when I purchased it, for $122.00 a piece. I was told this tire is not rated for mileage. Is this type of mileage/wear to be expected for these tires?

LXiSebring: are the tires worn unevenly? you could have an alignment problem leading to premature wear.

Eric responds:

.First off I would never buy those tires. I personaly like the Bridgestone Turanza series but your limited in the 17" size. Check out The tire rack on the web. They can help you select a tire and there reasonable. As far as 14,000 miles goes, you did pretty good. Every tire has a tread wear rating yours is probably 280 where as the Bridgestones I run are 500.


Ken writes

my car got rear ended and its smashed but when i get it back im buying 20 inch chrome rims and a body kit


Cheryl Fullerton writes

I have a 1997 Sebring JX. The color is candy apple red convertible. The problem I am having is the paint in rear is fogging and also have a small scratches all around the car. I have read different e-mails on this but what is the solution? The car was 3 years old in February and has 11,000 miles on it. I am the only driver of the car. Has Chrysler solved any of these problems? They must know these problems with other owners. Please let me know what is being done or what I can I do.

LXiSebring: Dunno--Convertibles are made in a different factory from coupes.


Damian writes

hey wsup. I own a Sebring LXi. Its a 98, black, I tinted the windows they are 5%. I heard from a friend of mine about this site. I was wondering as far as the engine goes, what can you do to it to make the car faster, mainly off the take?By the way I'm 20 & live in Queens I bought the car 3 weeks ago and thats about it for now so get back to me when you can.


LeAnne Malsbury writes

Hi! I really like your website. It is amazing that i have had many of the same problems as others on this site. I have a 1998 Sebring Lxi, and I really like the car. I bought the car in 1999, it had 6k miles on it, and apparently (although we didn't find out until after the sale) when enroute to transfer it from one dealership to another, it was wrecked. The dealer gave us an extended 75k mile warranty, which is great since I drive in excess of 30k a year. So, now my car has 50k on it, and I have had the battery light intermitantly come on ever since purchase, but I have not had it replaced. The front spoiler is all messed up from hitting curbs and speed bumps, but I attribute that to operator error-I have learned how to keep from hitting things. The price of the tires are outrageous. Got 30k out of the first set...cost $255 a piece!! Sears tells me that my car qualifies for $130 a piece 50k harder rubber tires...a little late, but at least I will know next time. But, now I have a problem that I have not seen on your web site, and I am wondering if you perhaps have heard other complaints of this, because in all my years of driving and all my different cars, I have never had this happen. I went to open my driver side door last week, and the handle broke off in my hand. How wierd is that on a 2-year car????? The hinges are plastic, and that is what broke. Unfortunately, although my warranty would still be in effect for that for 36 monthes, I have overshot the 35k mile limit. My extended warranty doesn't cover body problems. What do you suggest? This is just a wierd problem to me, seems that the car is too new for that. And I live in very mild climate (Raleigh, NC). Any suggestions? Thanks for a great website!!

LXiSebring: yours is the first I've heard of a door handle breaking.


eric velazquez writes

Would you know of any links that would give me info. on performance parts for sebrings? Thank you. PS. Some on the pictures on your website are only showing part of the vehicles. The pictures are incomplete. Thanks.

LXiSebring: The guys at www.asog.net keep close track of performance parts. The pics take a long time to load over a dial-up modem. partial pics havent downloaded completely. Try it on a cable modem or T3 line.


Georgette writes

I have a 99 paprika sebring lxi with the v-6 and when i pull out in traffic or put the pedal down to accelerate quickly the car with hesitate very badly and all of the sudden kick in and takes off. It is a real nuisance, also it has a egg smell that sometimes comes in the cabin of the car we have had the catalytic converters changed and it still does this. Your fellow cruiser, Georgette

Eric responds

...They are going to have to take a look at the fuel system. I'd suggest hooking up the co-pilot, it will allow them to monitor the vehicle while driving. Almost sounds like it could be running rich. Most likely a sensor or an injector. Have you checked your fuel milage lately? Even try switching to Amaco 87 octane.


kjarels writes

I am in the process of deciding between the Grand Am and the 2000 Sebring LX coupe. Could you tell me what you know about these cars, reliablity, comfort, etc. I keep hearing bad things about Chrysler products and it has gotten me leaning to the Pontiac Grand Am Se. Thanks!

LXiSebring: Suggestion: Wait & get a 2001 Sebring--its light years ahead of the Grand Am.


YEORYIA2 writes

FOR SALE
1998 Chrysler Sebring
White with tan leather interior
60k miles,Tint, 18' Chrome Momos
1 Owner, All records, Loaded!!!
$16,500 obo (Momo rims extra)


Lonny White writes

My 2000 red LXI is now 5 months old, 2800 miles on it. The dealer told me to wax the car twice a year - once in spring and once in in the fall before it started to cool off here (Chicago). My father said that because of the clearcoat finish, waxing it so soon is unecessary. I handwash the car regularly - generally once a week. Should I do a wax job before summer starts cookin'?

LXiSebring: Shhhhh I've never waxed mine and after 5 years it looks showroom new!


David Dormeier writes

I have a 1996 Sebring LXi. I bought it one year ago. I had it less than a week when the check engine light came on. I took it back to the dealer several times & the light would go off after each visit for a month at the longest. It wouldn't bother me so much, but when the light comes on, the car tends to idle rough. I've had it to one dealer so many times a mechanic actually told me he was "sick of looking at my car". (The nerve!!! Haven't been back)

Anyway, I took it to yet another Chrysler dealer & they cleared all the codes in the car & it the light managed to stay off for about two wholes months! (That's the longest it's been off since I've owned it). It seems when I leave the car idle for too long, the light comes back on & the car runs rough so I try to avoid that.

The current dealer I am using told me they thought the only way they thought they could remedy the problem was to give it a tune up. That set me back $272. If the light comes back on my heart will sink. I just had it done today. I guess we'll just have to see.

The check engine light is the only problem I've encountered so far. (Knock on wood). Other than that the car is an absoulute dream & exactly what I wanted. Even when it's running bad, it still runs better than any other car I've ever owned.

Eric Responds: Those dealers are incompotent obviously. A light on is usually an emissions problem. The car stores the codes and they will point to the specific problem for the mechanic. Sounds like someone wanted to make some money.


Kimberlee K Heinsohn writes

I just purchased a 2000 Sebring LXi last week, white w/ gray leather interior and sunroof. Just a little upset that the alarm does not beep or the headlights flash to let me know the doors are locked, etc when I get out, or that I've unlocked them when approaching the car. Also I was wondering if it's possible to have remote keyless trunk release added on. I always used this feature on my 96 Sunfire GT. Otherwise, it looks to be a great car..

LXiSebring: I doubt it, tho you might check an aftermarket parts supplier.


TC writes

I have a '97 Chrysler Sebring LX

Loaded with two MTX 12's and one 1000 watt Orion amp.
Four air suspension cylinders made by Aim production ( which includes 10 switches ) the first Sebring ever with that.( done by Arizona Street Customs in Mesa,AZ)
Cool air intake
Obx 4 inch exaust
Custom red and grey leather interior( by Curley's custom & classic upholstery in Mesa,Az)
And soon a custom two stage spoiler.


Eric C "Mr Tech" writes

Well Dave I just hit 70,000 and all is well. I gave my car a nice coat of Zaino polish this last holiday. The car still looks like brand new, and a shot of Ozium air freshner and she smells like new. I'm going to buy a new set of floor mats at the dealer just to make it perfect again. I just wish that those water marks would go away in the paint, but I refuse to have it buffed.

Happy motoring


D4P1 writes

I have a 97 Sebring LXi in silver mist w/ 17 inch Niche Shock rims and BFGoodrich scorcher T/A's in blue.


MHARLAN writes

Hi, I hope you can help me out. I have a 1998 Sebring LXi and the outside panel always fall off.The vehicle has been the shop at least six times and on the last trip. they attempt to the solve the problem by super gluing the cladding and placing steel clamps to keep it on. the problem with this method is, now instead of the cladding falling off it is cracking . I have decided to take this to arbitration.Hopefully to get a solution to this problem. Will you please asked the anyone on this site if they would e-mail me if they are having the same problem.Also if there is anyone out there that every been to arbitration please tell me what goes on there and what should I prepare myself for

thanks marjorie


Eric C responds

Her best bet is to go to a reputable 5 star dealer w/bodyshop and have this resolved. They know its a common problem.


Lonny White writes

T Hello, I took my 2000 LXI out on a road trip this weekend. The drive was five hours (300 miles) and, while pulling out of a tollbooth, the "check engine" light flashed on and off several times. This concerns me as the car is new (about 2700 miles on the odometer) and I had checked the fluid levels before departing on the trip. Should this be cause for concern? Should this necessitate a trip to the dealer for a checkup, or do you think it was just an anomaly?

LXiSebring: have a Chrysler dealer read out the stored code from the check engine light. Mine has never been on in over 5 years of ownership. i think the bulb must be burned out LOL


Nicholas Schell writes

My black 1997 LXi is doing fine with no repairs yet and 50K+ miles strong. Now that I've crossed over the halfway point of making payments, I'm going to modify a few things and take the car into total indulge-ville. Here's what I plan to do... please send me your thoughts about the following fun stuff:

First, the seats will get custom tailored sheepskin covers from www.carlamb.com. Two-tone would look fantastic... but wear and tear is a concern.

Second, I am going to buy a Trackz MP3 car player from www.mp3kit.com and install a stereo mini plug on the side of the dash to patch it in to the existing Infinity stereo system (I hope). 26 GB of portable MP3 storage for about $400-$425 is amazing.

Third, the suspension will be softened to just a few clicks before the point where it would impact road feel and feel floaty. This car makes a better cruiser than a racecar, so it should have a touring suspension. A four-cylinder manual Neon can smoke any 163HP V6 Sebring, I'm sad to say. Anyway, I have no idea how to do this and will probably trust a performance shop to install new shocks and stuff.

Fourth, I REALLY LIKE the Chrysler LHS's beautiful classic retro dash gauges with the indiglo nighttime function (who doesn't?). If I bought an original (OEM) set of these gauges, I wonder if they could be made to work in the Sebring's dash? It would be totally amazing to pull this off.

Fifth, a new luxo-shifter knob with more "woodyness" is on the way from who knows where. Momo?

Finally, number six is to go all out with the wood paneling with a kit from www.exoticwooddash.com.

After all that upgrading, my Sebring is going to be one sweet cruiser. Appearance and creature comfort-wise, it should hold its own against most of the more expensive luxocruisers on the market. I'll try not to get in too many stoplight races since the outcome is predictable. Let me know if you can help me fill in some of the blanks. I'll post some pics as the upgrades roll in and share my experiences about the various companies and products I will be incorporating. Wish me luck.

-Nicholas Schell
www.nikolai.org


Carlos Sabido writes

Hello, My name is Carlos and I bought a Sebring LXI Coupe last September 1999, I live in Monterrey Mexico and I would like to become a member of this club in order to get news about my car. My car is Mediterranean blue with gray leather interiors. In Mexico they are know as Cirrus LXI Coupe.

One of the engine belts (band) sometimes makes a noice like if it was not holding in position, specially when I have the A/C working. I took it to service and they told me they fixed it, but it still sounds. Regards,
Carlos

LXiSebring: Carlos, we would love to see a photo of this car to determine exactly what differences there are between it and the Sebring coupe sold in the US. If you can get me an electronic copy I will put it up on the photo page for you. One other thing, can you tell me if the white sticker on the drivers door post indicates that the car was built in Normal, Illinois by Diamond Star or somewhere else? If it was built in the ILlinois plant, that means that there are Sebrings Coupes being built there with Cirrus tags for export to Mexico.

Eric responds

. I replace that belt every 20,000 miles or so. Once a belt squeals, its always going to squeal. You can make the belt last if you tighten it reguarly. I also sand the idler pulley sometimes to reduce the glazing effect of the belt. The solution is to replace the belt and check every 2 oil changes for proper tension.


Justin Harrison writes

I was wondering if anyone else is having as hard a time finding performance upgrades for the '96 LXi as I am. I've looked everywhere! The only things I can find are all "custom" or "universal"!!! Please help! Are there any body kits or headers at all? I've got a Weapon-R Intake being "custom" bent for me now and a "universal" Borla Low Restriction muffler on order! Thanks for your time. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.

LXiSebring: The guys at ASOG spend a lot of timetracking down performance and appearance upgrades. Check them out


Kevin writes

Hi My name is Kevin and I am a recent college graduate. I am considering buying a seabring I am not sure what year to get or even if it should be the convertible or Coupe. I like the look and performance of the Convertible but I am a little worried about the security of having a convertible top. I am also a little concerned about the durability of the rag top in Rhode Island winters and the salt of the ocean. I have also heard some rumors about the brakes and transmissions of these cars that they go bad quite regularly, I would like to know if this is true or if these problems have been worked out by the 99 model. I would also like to know the difference in performance and handling between the convertible and coupe the dealers around my area do not really know the difference or cannot communicate it to me. Thank you for your help

Eric responds:

...The Sebring Coupe is based on a sports car built by Mitsubishi. I think it's the best car I've owned. It handles like a dream, is rock solid, and very tight. The car is slightly underpowered even in the V-6 configuration. The brakes are a high maintence item every 15k. The transmissions are either good or bad. The convertible is a good car based on the Dodge Stratus J platform, and was DESIGNED as a convertible. It is pricey and also a little underpowered. If you want a convertible you might want to look at the Mustang. @ 20k it's a steal. I would (if I were you) wait a few months and check out the new Sebrings. I'm sure there going to be plenty powerful, and even better than the cars we drive now.


charlie johnson writes

Just looked at the site, very informative. I also have a Sebring like yours. The brake problem is a headache, I have a hard time keeping the noise down.

The car has 74,000 miles on it as of this date, no major problems have appeared. The fuel pump relay went bad, as did the power seat switch.

I also have a ill fitting battery on my car. Orther than this the car has been a pleasure to drive. Many of my family and friends have driven the car and have been very impressed with it's performance/mpg.


Jon Hutchinson writes

I have a 98' Chysler Sebring LXI, I've had it for about 8 months and yes It might stupid but I love how you can throttle Slam is what my friend cause it which means hitting thoses passing gears and You pump the gas multiple times.. I dunno but that cant be good can it? I mean I know its probably not good for it but I'd like to know how bad it could get. This is my first car, Im 21.. I plan on giving you some Pics and Getting on this site soon I want to do some things to my car first before I give you everything.. :) If you have any good sites besides yours for Sebring owners let me know I want some good Ideas for my car. ohh ya If you know anyone that wants to purchase a Factory CD player from the 98' Sebring LXI

Eric responds:

The car has an electronic trasnsmission. It will not allow you to do anything harmful (overreving) I wouldnt recommend pumpimg the gas while in passing gear, you can stress the engine mounts. If you want power just leave the car in 1 and it will always select the lowest gear possible. I leave mine in 2 quite a bit to utilize power for hills and such, dont worry it will shift up even if left in a lower gear when it reaches redline.


Mykee G writes

Hello, My name is Mike, and I own a 95 Coupe, powered by the 24 valve V6. I love my car and getting ready to roll over 89,000 miles. My car and I have seen alot of states together and still going to see more because of my job. I recently started to have time to brouse the net and cam upon this site that offers alot about the Sebring. I think that this is great. Having the car for 5 years I have only had two problems with her and one is a $600 dollar problem and the other I had was a low front end where I cracked the nose over by the fog light going into a driveway.

The $600 problem was the distributor where she died and no spark was going into the engine. The mechanic had said "the photo diodes have stoped working and so that needs to get repaired". Other than that she runs like a champ. I get about 400 miles per tank on the long runs on Interstate 95 her on the east coast, changed her brakes twice. Finally changed her original tires, and looking forward to more years to come with her.

Eric, I have one big question for you. HOW THE HECK DO YOU WORK ON THE ENGINE!!! Looking at it to change the plugs it looks impossible to get to the ones under the intake, getting to the alternator, and other types of other maintance. Eric, I have a 95 Coupe with the V6 is there a site that I could go to and will give me the step by step on all up keep. Please help.

Eric:.If the v-6 intimidates you, I dont suggest working on it. The rear plugs are hard to get to. You have to realize that the interior is over the front wheels and the engine was designed in last. The 4 cylinder is much easier to service.


CTate writes

Hello, I am an ASE Certified Technician and Mopar gooroo also. I have seen on the Sebring, well convertable models that the front wheel bearings tend to wear out after 50xxx miles. This might be something shoppers would want to find out if have been replaced yet at the time they want to purchase. Thought this might be able to make it to your site as a shoppers beware item or something. Might just be I was the lucky one to have 2 of these in my shop this year and its not a large problem. Thanks for reading. Carl N Tate Jr. I am waiting to get my own 1997 model Sebring Convertable. Love the car in black.

LXiSebring: The coupe chassis is Galant-based--the Convertible is Chrysler J Car (Stratus, Cirris) based. The reason we dont follow convertibles here is because chassis-wise, the twio cars are quite different, including the front wheel bearings no doubt. I have not heard of this problems on coupes.


JAMIL ESFAHANI I am 15 and getting my license soon and I was wondering what would be better, buying a used LXi, like a 97, or buying a new one with the large discount my dad gets for working at Chrysler (he's a Supervisor)?

LXiSEbring: The new car has advantages, like a warranty. If you go with the used one, check for damage to the front fascia lower panel below the fog lights (expensive to repair) the transmission sounds & operates properly, and the body cladding is secure. Do a test drive on open highway to make sure the car tracks straight and doesnt pull one way or the other. Replace the battery whether you think it needs one or not--you will soon! And be sureto make sure the brakes & aBS (if it has ABS) works properly.



jswan writes

Greetings! We own a 1996 Sebring Coupe with the 4 banger and 5 speed. We just prefer 5 speeds! We would like to be added to your members list. We are planning to purchase the new 2001 as soon as available. We will order it with the V6 and of course 5 speed! Thank you


Jeff Clem writes

Attached are two pictures of my wifes '99 LXi in Indy Red.Have had a few of the typical Sebring problems and some not so typical.At 13,000 miles both front brake rotors were replaced(dealer agreed to replacement instead of resurfacing)because of warping.Have had fuel pump replaced twice(original and first replacement were very noisy),and right rear wheel bearing has been replaced.Had a Honda Accord try to climb the back bumper after not being able to stop on wet pavement(Sebring stopped on a dime!),causing $1200.00 dollars damage. Was very pleased with selling dealers body repair(BURGER CHRYSLER-PLYMOUTH in Terre Haute,In.).Car is a year old now with 18,000 miles.Now a question.I have serviced my own vehicles for going on 30 years now,but cant seem to find a way to get this car up on jack stands.It seems that there are four jack points on the car,one on each corner.But once I get the car on the jack,there is no place to put a jack stand !.Anybody got any suggestions ?.My wife and I both love your site, and love looking at everyone elses Sebrings.

Eric:..I always jack mine up by the front support that runs under the engine. there is even a hole there and a pad. The rear I raise by the suspension support beam, right in the middle. This will allow you to raise the front and rear straight up and put the jack stands under the front points or the rear points.


Sarah Duffy

, I was browsing through interent sights pertaining to Chrysler Sebrings when I found yours. I am concerned with the fact that both of my Sebring's side molding panels have fallen off. I was able to slide the driver's side door panel back on, but I have had to replace my passenger's side panel c;ips. The dealer sells these clips for over $2.00 a piece. You need approx. 10 clips. Is Chrysler going to recall this defect or are they going to disregard the fact the side panels are not properly staying on? The dealership will not respond to my request: are you aware of anything or anyone I can contact pertaining to this issue. Your input would be greatly appreciated. Another Sebring lover,

LXiSebring:THe only thing I know on this is posted as a letter to & from NHTSA on the website.


Carolyn Amato writes

Since you seem to know so much about Chrysler Sebrings, I thought I'd ask if you've had any problems with yours. I'm trying to find an owner's "voice" page to see if anyone is having problems similar to mine. I got a silver '95 Sebring LX (looks exactly like yours) five months ago. I've had to have it serviced six times. EVERYTHING has gone wrong with this car. I'm currently pursuing a lemon law suit. However, I love my car inside and out and just wish it would work! Any ideas of where I can go to find out if other owners have had similar problems? Do you think mine is just a defective one? I'm so frustrated! I'm not writing from home, so if you'd like to respond, you can e mail me at: carrmom@webtv.net.

Any Sebring info would be great! Thanks!

LXiSebring: Check the mail-bag here for your specific problem Eric:...check alldata and NHTSA for recalls & TSB's


carrmom writes

If you can figure out the problem with my peace of junk then you are not only a genuis, but my new best friend. I bought a 95 Sebring LX at a large dealership in South Jersey five months ago. It's been back to the dealer twice and to my mechanic four times. That's six times in five months. The problem is that it stalls out while driving. Although the engine stays running, while I'm driving, it just stops. As if I'm in park. then sometimes if I put it in park, and let it rest it'll start back up. Or sometimes it doesn't and then the cycle of it being towed in for service starts again. My mechanic is dumbfounded. and he is qualified. He can't figure it out. My dealer won't help me, nor will my warranty company. I'm currently pursuing a lemon law suit. (filed yesterday). Just to give you an idea of what has been the "diagnosis"...bad oil leak, bad head gasket (replaced). moisture in engine whatever that means. it's had a new water pump, timing belt, positive battery terminal, sensor, and fuel filter replaced. Yet it still continues to break down over and over and over again. I am at my wits end. It's beautiful, has only 39,000 miles, and when it actually ran, ran great! What do you think?? This is not my email, so if you want to respond, you can write me at carrmom@webtv.net

Eric responds:

.....I would check the electronic ignition module and the PCM unit. It could also be a fuel injection problem. The best thing to do is contact Chrysler so that they can recommend a dealer close to you that will install the co-pilot recording system. This wil take a "snapshot" of your cars operating systems while driving.


Thomas Tribble writes

I have a problem with my '98 (LXi, Paprika colour, 23K mi.). The front tires scrape the strut bolt all the time. I have to hit every driveway very, very slowly and at an extreme angle to prevent this. It is so bad, in fact, that I had to get 2 tires replaced at 20K miles because there was a grove worn through the inside tread. Now, I am a very careful driver but this problem is getting to be too much for me. Any advise?

Thank you,

Eric responds:.Was this car wrecked?? sounds like something is out of wack. Are the tires the stock size? (check the sticker on the inside drivers door) This is not normal by any means. _______


Headlawwitch writes

after owning mine for 2 months, the right door cladding starting jamming in the doorway and both sides (cladding) have been replaced. i could not use the passenger side door until this was repaired...took four trips to the dealership (40 miles down the road) to fix...the pins holding the cladding continue to break and the left side cladding is not properly fitted to this day...


Blair Herndon writes

Hello I'm from Blacksburg SC. I bought my 99lxi about 13 months ago from our local chrysler dealer. I love my sebring its been a great car . The only problem I am having is my service engine soon light has come on two times for about a minute each time , when ths occured the idle became rough but it cleared and the light went off. I have been to the dealership each time, but the car did not store any codes. Any help with this would be great. Thank you


Christian LaMorte writes

Hello... I would like to be included in the Chrysler Sebring Owners' Page. I have actualy purchased Two Sebrings over the last five years. I originaly owned a 1996 LXI Polo Green Pearl Coat and recently traded it in and picked up a 2000 Shark Blue LXI. I loged about 40,000 miles on the 96 and have put about 5,000 on the 2000 so far. If your require more information please let me know and I will be happy to send it along.


Mark writes

My '96 Sebring has had some of the usual problems I have seen on the website but I haven't seen the latest one. I noticed driving to work the other day a intermittent interference on my radio followed by my CD player skipping when I put in a CD. Then the Battery light came on and I noticed the dash lights flickering a bit. The car was still operating and I was by chance on my way to the local dealer to have a sensor replaced. When they looked at it the problem no longer was there. The car drove great for the next few days, but then last night I noticed the lights flicker and the Battery light came on again. I drove it about 10 miles, cut off the engine, immediately started it again and it has been great since.

A couple of things you should know...I was in a accident a month and a half ago where the driver side of the car took a real big hit from a jersey wall (fell asleep, thank God that car seems to protect you well) and was fixed by the dealer. The impact was from the front fender down the side of the driver's door to the back fender. Also, I had a mysterious problem with my car idoling about 5 months ago where almost every sensor was replaced in addition to a new battery, spark plugs, wires and distributor cap. That problem turned out to be the distributor which was replaced for around $1000. Also, the car has 65,000 miles on it.

Any thoughts? I thought a wire could be loose from the jarring of the accident or the alternator is slowly dying. I am curious why the problem seems to go away just by restarting the car.

Thanks for you time!

Eric responds

Hmm.. could be the Alternator, Voltage regulator, Wiring harness, Loose fuse block,Bad ground. Honestly it could be anything. I would look for a loose connection possibility first. Also they can hook up an onboard recording device to your car, you hit a button when it acts up and it scans the computer for errors and records them so the technician can troubleshoot later.


Lonny White writes

My 2000 LXI didn't come with a manual. I have had the car for two and a half months now and my dealer has done nothing to get me one. Can anyone tell me the name of the publishing company that makes the Chrysler manuals? I'm not going to pay for it - the dealer will pick up the tab. What's the deal with this Five-Star service? I'm not impressed.

LXiSebring: The manual should have a parts number and the parts dept should be able to order it for you.


chad writes

Hey there, my name is chad louque I am a proud owner of a 1998 sebring LXI and have made many modifications to my sebring I bought the car brand new in 1998 and still own and love it to this day mods include : suspension (eibach 2" lowering springs tokico struts and ingall cambers all the way around ) , gtr slim line dual stage wing and 1998 avenger front bumper with speed grill and custom foglights , engine ( weapon-r v2 shorty filter , and tsudo dual pipe muffler) lighting ( hiperwhite bulbs Hight,low and fog and side marker lights , wheels (17"enkie compitition raceing wheelsand nitto215 45 17 " tires , sound (autotech425 supersport amp on two 10' jl subs in sealed box ,tinted windows .

the car is in perfect condition and has 52,000 miles on it and never gave me a lick of problems I will be sending you a pic or two hopeing you post on site as soon as you reply to this e-mail


Dan writes <

Hi, Dan from Ottawa...just purchased a '96 coupe LXi with all options & 50,000 miles. By the look of the page I'm glad the dealer insisted on the two year warranty. Mine is two tone white with grey rocker panels. I pick up my unit tomorrow so I will hopefully have more to tell in the near future.


Kevin writes

i have a '97 sebring LXi Coupe..not the convertible. This morning it was raining...i pulled back up to the house and (with the car running) got out to take an umbrella back in to my wife...well, the alarm went off...with the car running..i tried everything. I got out stopped the engine, restarted it, pushed every button on the remote, EVERYTHING, and with my neighbors all looking on, drove off down the road where a minute or so later, it stopped on its own. When i got to work, i shut off the engine, turned off the lights, everything as normal, and it did it again...just went off when i opened the door. No amount of button pushing or yelling turned it off...i attempted to find the horn to disconnect it, but cannot even find the thing. The light in the remote appears very bright...and it will lock and unlock the doors while the alarm goes off. I am at a loss...can you please help me....

LXiSebring: When this happens again put the key in the door & turn it. My guess is its the hood security switch not seating properly. Eric thinks its one of the door switches, tho it could be the trunk switch too. The hood switch is alone edge of hood, midway, passenger side. Look for a little indentation in the hood..often that doesnt hold the switch securely.


Lng-time member and owner Dan Siegel writes this log of his experiences

16,100 miles:

A) Braking was not smooth, as if the rotors were warped. Dealer resurfaced both front rotors at no charge under warranty, and braking is now smooth and the pedal rides a little higher than before.

B) Heard a whistling noise about 65mph as if the seal around the windshield was not tight. Dealer pulled the windshield and resealed it, no charge.

C) Air conditioner would blow warm or hot air while the car idled at a traffic light, although it would blow very cold air while the vehicle was moving. The expansion valve apparently failed. They evacuated the system, replaced the valve, and charged the system. Covered under warranty.

18,100 miles:

A) The high-pitched noise which I thought was a wind/whistling sound around 65mph turned out to be coming from the transmission. The dealer replaced the transmission, although it took a week because the part had to be shipped in from warehouse in Illinois. Parts, labor, and rental car were covered under warranty.

B) The passenger door window was not closing flush with the rubber molding and body. Dealer adjusted the door glass and door assembly, no charge.

C) On rare occasions, the air conditioner would still blow warm air while the car idled at a traffic light after running for several miles. Dealer re-charged the system, no charge.

22,500 miles:

A) Braking was not smooth. Dealer re-surfaced rotors for the second time (first done back at 16,100 miles). This car is known for chewing up brake rotors. Foresee needing to deal with this problem again within the next year. No charge.

B) It's hot again here in the desert southwest, and the air conditioner again started to blow warm air while the car idled at a traffic light after running for several miles. Dealer re-charged the system, no charge.

C) The whistling noise at about 65 mph was not gone. Dealer found an air leak to fix, no charge. p D) Noticed occasional drip leak coming from under the front hood area of what appeared to be radiator coolant. Dealer replaced cracking hoses and recovery tank.

E) After fixing the radiator hose leak, dealer was unable to get the car to start. Never had starter problems previously. Dealer replaced the fuse bank.

All work on this dealer visit plus rental car covered by dealer. More on my car's web page at

Click here


Matt writes

Hey, My name is Matt Zaiman and i just got a '95 sebring and i wanted to do something to it like a body kit or ground effects but everywhere i look i can't find anything, i have the '95 LXi and i want to make heads turn as i drive by. I want to show off my car, but i can't find anything for it, if you could help me out on this one, Well i got to get going, if you know anyone or anywhere that i could get something for my car that would be a big help, thanks

Eric responds :

I would go with the stock upgrade rim size of 215-50-17" There are lots of nice wheels available. Also maybe dropping it 1" or so would really set it off. Anything that fits an Avenger will work on your Sebring. Also search this site for an ASOG link..those guys love to modify.


Rodney Stewart writes

HI, first let me thank you for taking the time to start a wonderful site such as this. I have been in the hunt for a newer car, and a friend has a '97Lxi. I drove it once, and fell in love. I have recently found a white '96lxi, and was very interested in it until coming across your site. I knew there was reported problems with the tranny, but it doesn't look like anyone has really anything good to say about these cars. I love the looks, and the way they handle, but I'm selling a '91 sentra, that has never given me a bit of problem(but I'm sure in the not to distant future she will), and I don't want to get into repair costs. If you or anyone could give me some HONEST opinions... ie. would they buy another one? I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks again, and keep up the great work.

LXiSebring: Unless you count two bad batteries a problem, I've had great luck with mine. 19,000 miles of stop & go driving and My brakes still work & feel fine. I Think some of these guys with brake problems dont have the greatest driving habits with respect to brake use. They dont anticipate traffic slowdowns and end up slamming on brakes from speeds over 25 mph. A few of those kinds of stops can greatly reduce pad life.


Thane Eisenerwrites

Do you know if the ASOG site (www.asog.net) is still up and running? I've been trying access it for a week and I never get a response from the site.

LXiSebring: ASOG was down earlier in the week but its back up now. Dave Unwin (aka WheatKing) actually controls the machine this thing is run from, as I understand, so occasionally he has to shut it down for various reasons. If the site goes down, be patient, but check back in a day or two.


Jean Konrad writes

Hi, there! I've e-mailed you before, but have never seen my comments appear on your Web sitre. (Perhaps they don't warrant repeating!) I've read the many horror stories on your site from other Sebring owners, and I just wanted to say, in fairness to Chrysler, that the '99 Sebring I bought brand new in August of '99 has never manifested the first HINT of a problem _ NOTHING! It's been a delight to drive and rely upon. I'm a fanatic about taking good care of my cars, and I have no trouble keeping them running in great shape at least 9?10 years or so. I plan a long love affair with this one!

LXiSebring: I May have just slipped up in not posting your earlier comments. If you still have a copy, send them to me again.


Chris writes

Hi, I own a 96 LXi and like all others had the rattle in the power moonroof/sunroof which ever you want to call it. . There is a thin piece of metal (not sure what it is for) between the roof and the moonroof. It is extremely close to the roof and when going down a bumpy road this plate hits the roof, hence, rattle. To fix this, I took a piece of gasket off of a ally light used on ambulances, (i work for an ambulance co) and placed it between the roof and piece of metal that was causing the noise. The gasket is channeled and the lip of the roof fits perfectly in this channel to keep it in place. A real cheap solution to an annoying problem. My moonroof is as quite as a mouse. Just a helpful tip.

Oh, btw, I love my LXi...I'll send in a pic sometime soon.


Patrick writes

Hello,

I was online and saw that you were too, for a minute. I just wanted to drop you a line to say "HI".... My name is Patrick, my wife (Tracy) and I bought a '96 Sebring LX about 5 months ago. We love it!!! I joined ASOG about a month ago... You have a great day!!


Mike Goble writes

I finally found some older pics of my car (To of the photos of Mike's car are on the Sebring photo page). These are before the polished headers, cam sprokets, and tint. I just recently added a fin like Beairs. Could you tell me where Alexander got his tail light covers? I will hopefully be sending updated pics in the future.

Just as information anyone curious about 50 series tires should note that a 235/50 R16 is the widest 50 series tire that would fit. I tried a 245/50 and had to go to a wider rim which rubbed. Please note the tires on my car are 235/50 R16 Yokohama Avid V4's and 16x7 Prime 119's. The handles like a real champ compared to crappy 14-inch factory.

Thanks


Sandy writes

Hi, my name is Sandy and I hope you will put the picture of my car on your website. I have owned my 99 Shark Blue Sebring since July 99 and adore it. I receive so many compliments on the color and styling. I have only had one problem and that was with the cd player, which wouldnt read the cds .. it was replaced under warranty without any hassle. Its the most beautiful car I have ever owned. Your webpage is a great place to visit and read about other people's passionate affairs with their Sebrings!


Lee Van Doren writes

One of the users group people posted a recent message about not being able to get to your page with the diagnostic codes? Do you have such a page? I didn't see it. That would be great if you could put on a link to the page with the codes and how to activate it (ignition on/off 3 times?) I had an old LeBaron (an 85 then an 89) and I was told to do that and get the blinking lights but didnt realize it was still the same way...

I have had the check engine light go on, stay on, and go off about 3 days later on 3 separate occasions spaced a few weeks apart. So far it has been fine the last few months but I would like to be able to look up the code if it happens again.

Lee

LXiSebring: The PCM code link above has been updated.


Justin Sutton writes

I am a proud owner of a 95' LXi, White on silver. I love it, but at 117,000 miles my trans just failed. If you have any quick notes on that I would appreciate it.

My only beef with my car besides the lack of dome lights in the back, is the grill, or should I say, the imaginary grill. Has anyone made an after-market insert that can convert this fake grill into a real one? I happened to notice on old booklet a picture of the original car that appears to have a real grill. Any idea knowledge of this?


tempodma writes

I own a 1996 Chyrsler Sebring. I'm going to custom it for car shows. I just ordered a pair of 16' Niche Bellas. I have a pioneer cd player with 3 12'in sub in the trunk. If you have any ideas on nice spoilers let me know. My email is tempodma@yahoo.com.


Selina Davis writes

David: I have been in love with Sebring's since I first saw one in 1997. My car is ready for trade in and I am anticipating purchasing a Sebring. But, I do have reservations. I have heard of numerous recalls on parts as well as transmission problems at 70,000 miles. Do you know if these rumors are true and if Chrysler is working to fix the problems?

Any information (positive and negative) would be helpful.


John Iannitto writes

I just wanted to let you know that Chrysler has the new 2001 Sebring Coupe, Sedan, & Convertible on their main web page. It gives a lot of general facts/options as well when they will go on sale (Fall 2000). You may have already recieved information regarding this.

Another LXi owner, John Iannitto

LXiSebring: Thanks for letting me know--see notes & photo at the top of page.


Hi, my name is Nick and i live in bakersfield california. I have a 98 chrylser sebring Lxi, black...and it's been lowered with a modified intake. I have been desperately trying to seach for somebody who makes or can make clear turn signals for my car. They make them for honda's, acura's..etc...but id really really like to have them on my car. Is there any way to get the orange out of the turn signals, i've heard that u can dip them in soemthing..and peal an orange film out but that was only word of mouth. So please give me any imformation possible..it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Eric responds: THIS REQUIRES BREAKING THE SEAL BETWEEN THE LENS. I DONT RECCOMEND YOU DO THIS. MAYBE BUY ONE FROM A JUNKYARD TO TRY FIRST SO YOU HAVE 2 SETS.


John Podczerwinsky writes

My '95 LXi is in trouble! The car is literally stuck on the side of the road right now. I am setting codes 12 and 55 (found by key-on, key off, key-on, key off, key on, wait, and count the flashes). I cannot look up your pcmcodes.htm link. Is it updated? Or can you inform me what the codes are? I think I may have slipped the timing belt, as the engine seemed to be in an extramely retarded condition when it was stalling. I have four days to fix this. Please, if you can help or know someone who can, let me know.


Chad Ollila writes

I have a 1999 Sebring LXi
It is Caffe Latte color.
It's got the 2.5L V6, leather, power moonroof, locks, seat, windows, cd/tape infinity 8 speaker sound system with a Pioneer 12 disc CD changer which I mounted in the trunk, K&N air filter.

I am interested in wiring my fog lamps to come on with the parking lights (help!) and do some performance modifications with some suggestions and advice from other Sebring owners!

GREAT SITE!!

Eric Responds: ....try 2gnt.com look for 1000 questions about DSM's there is a great article about how to do this posted there. _______


Shelly writes

Help me please!!

I have my Sebring on a 4 year lease which will be up in March of 2001. I have had so many problems with it and don't know what To do---maybe you can help me. I will list the things. First let me tell you that it is a 1997 LXi and I just hit 45,000 miles.

4 sets of brakes!!

my passenger side door cladding fell off and was replaced

oxygen sensor

spark plugs (they are platinum plugs and supposed to last 100,000 miles and were replaced at 44,000)

new battery (installed today)

ERG valve
AIS motor
and today I was told 3 of my tires need to be replaced (I just replaced the 4th one in Jan) This is all I can think of off hand. From what you wrote about the brakes, do you think I would be able to be reimbursed for my many sets of brakes? I just find all this work ridiculous. I already pay over $360 a month for the car payment and all these extra things are making me go broke. I have my oil changed regularly and feel I take pretty good care of the car overall. If you have any info for me about how I may best handle this, I would really appreciate it.

Thank You,

LXiSebring: Lets take these one at a time. First you should not expect more than about 45,000 miles from a set of original equipment tires. Thats how long they are made to last. You can buy replacement tires that you might get 60,000 miles out of, but those would be pretty expensive.

There are lots of tips from Eric on this sie with respect to brands of brake pads that will last longer than 15,000. But a lot of the pad life invoves issues with respect to how much stop and go driving you do. 15,000 miles is about average for a car largely driven in town. But you can probably make some minor adjustments in your driving (stopping) habits and increase the pad life. A lot of people who go through pads quickly tend to slam on the brakes when stopping instead of anticipating stops and letting the engine itself do most of the work in slowing the car. Pressing hard on the brake pedal particularly from speeds of over 25 mph tends also to reduce tire life--your other complaint. If you are using the brakes as the major mechanism to slow the car down and dont anticipate what is going on ahead of you until yyou have to slam on the brakes, you drastically reduce pad life. That's why dealers likely won't do anything for you on the brake replacements. A few aftermarket brake places warranty their pads for as long as you own the car and you may want to look into that.

My recommendation on batteries in Sebrings is to treat them as an expendible and plan to replace every two years whether you are having problems or not. You may be able to find an aftermarket battery with a longer life than the Chrysler factory unit, but MAKE CERTAIN it isnt taller than the factory unit. I've heard horror stories of the hood grounding out an aftermarket battery leading to major body damage to the hood.

Chrysler has long had problems with the clips breaking off on the cladding. If you had to pay for this yourself I would check for the possibility of a reimbursement from Chrysler.

I'm not sure about the oxygen sensor/ERG valve and AIG motor replacement. I trust that this work was diagnosed and done at a Chrysler dealership. Is it the dealer who suggested the spark plugs should be replaced now at 45,000 miles? THats probably not a bad spark plug life if the car is used heavily in city rather than long distance driving. The 100,000 mile spark plug life is more like a maximum life under optimal conditions with mostly long distance travel.


Mike Goble writes

Hi!! My name is Mike and I own a '97 Pewter-Blue LX. Absolutly love the car and will be a repeat buyer. Also, I have had the same probs as everyone else, the car has 38,000 miles on it:

Replaced trans: 15,000
Replaced brakes and rotors twice
3rd battery
Engine light came on @ 32,000. Replaced air filter and it went away. I have added many aftermarket modifications and cannot regret any of them.
The add-ons are as follows:

Accel Thundersport 300+ plug wires
Bosch Platinum +4 plugs
OBX air intake w/ racing fabrication (growls @ 4000K)
OBX underdrive pulley (added much greater low end)
OBX headers
Port and polished throttle body
Gude Bullfrog cams and sprokets
Prime 16-inch polished 5 spoke rims
Firestone Firehawk 235/55's
Flowmaster Muffler w/ custom 3-inch exhaust & tip (removed catalytic and gained mad power)
Larger Fuel injectors
Pioneer custom fit DEH-75 CD player
White gauge faces
Mopar bra w/ Sebring logo
GTS Headlight covers
The has been Dynoed at 203 HP (which I feel is higher than actual), and my fastest 1/4 mile is 14.9 (not amazing but it is a 4 cylinder non-turbo). My only future upgrades will be a sunroof, high-back fin, and re-tinting the windows. I will be sending pictures when I have time to scan them if anyone has any questions or comments feel free to e-mail me mike_goble@hotmail.com. Finally if anyone has tips drop a message to me.

LXiSebring: How about a pic for our photo page?


BJ writes

I was wondering if u would have any good ideas for getting a new set of wheels (97-99) for my 95 sebring LX? If so, i would greatly appreciate it, thank you!!

LXiSebring: Anyone?


Derek Santana writes

Hi, I'm in the market for a new car and have been looking at the Chrysler Sebring. I would be getting between a 96-99 model. After reading your website, I'm quite frankly scared to buy one. All those horror stories really gave me a bad rub. I was wondering what your opinion was on the car and what you think the overwhelming feeling is about the car. Is it a good buy? Please let me know.


Kory Dorman writes

I do not own a Sebring (and never have). However, I would like to own one. There is one small problem. My husband and I are discussing starting a family, and we will need a new car. I currently drive an Accord coupe. I do not want a four door car. I also do not want a two door car. My dream car would be a Sebring with a third door or a Sebring with a "third" door on both sides. Do you know if Chrysler is considering this at all? I would love to be the tester of such a car if Chrysler decides to make one. Please let me know if you have any information about such a thing. I actually think the car manufacturers would have a good product if they made coupes like they make trucks . . . with the option of a third/fourth door that doesn't look like an extra door. Know what I mean? Thank you, in advance, for your help.


Mauricio writes

Hello,

My name is Mauricio, I just purchased a 1998 LXi with all the extras and 22,000 miles. So far its running perfect, (Ive had it for one week) I just wanted to know what measures I can take to prevent some of the problems other owners have had with this car. Besides the scheduled maintenance there has to be other things that can be done. I really like the car and I bought it to avoid trips to the mechanic, good thing its still under warranty. Other than that, you have a great site and keep up the good work. Also, add me as a member.


Tim Moore writes

My name is Tim Moore and I reside in Henderson, KY. I am the owner of a Black/silver '95 Sebring LX. I'd love to send a picture as soon as I can scan one. Right now I'm aiming more towards performance upgrades than cosmetics. The current engine mods include a "cold air" type K&N intake setup, polished intakes, Magnecor R-100 plug wires, Splitfire plugs, custom headers & straight type exhaust. I'm currently looking into the possibilities of finding a reasonably priced turbocharger I can rebuild in my spare time to fit onto the V-6. However, it's looking grim so far. I could easily blow several thousand dollars to reach my goal. But hey, I can still dream can't I? As far as cosmetics on the exterior a set of headlight blackouts, 20% tinted windows, and strategically placed chrome trim accent the smooth lines. I look forward to hearing from other Sebring owners as the number of Sebring's around here is alarmingly low. (sad..)


RAMIN01 writes

Hi,my name is Ramin.I wanted to know how I can make my 95 Sebring LXi faster?Can I find any body kits? Thanks


Terry Groth writes

HI

My name is Adam, and I have recently purchased a 1996 Sebring LXi with all the goods. I was wondering where i could possibally get a carbon fiber dash kit for it? (to replace the wood grain one) Also if there was anybody who would know where I could get white gauge faces for my car. I do really enjoy my new ride, and I have yet to have any problems with it. I have just purchased Arelli Assassyn 17 inch rims for it and and am still looking for a company that makes lowering springs for it (only about and inch and a half) if anyone could provide this information for me please e mail me at Bigperm414@hotmail.com.


Eric C comments on Sebring lamps

9005 & 9006 are the healamp numbers. Also foglamps are H3 USE THE STOCK WATTAGE !!!

All but the fogs are very easy to change, just unscrew the round plastic caps off the back of the housing for access.


_ Bob Martin writes

Hello, I am sending you a picture of my 99 Sebring LXi


Phil writes

hiya dave,,,,,great page!! I though the brake light was only mine, how do i get chryler to fix mine? I never got a notice about the defect. thanks! I have a 1996 sebring lxi with 39,000 miles on it,,,fully equiped, I want to join your group :-) Btw, whats with Dodge Avenger resale prices beating the Sebrings? its the same car,,, Also I had factory mudflaps installed on mine by a dealership, one broke off, what should I do? thanks again, Phil

LXiSebring: Try disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes and see if that resets the brake light. I havent compared Avenger & Sebring resale prices lately by Kelly Blue book, but you might check to see if that is true there as well. Obviosly you need to have the dealer order you a new mudflap--no other choice is there?


Lonny White writes

Sorry about that last shortened post - I own a brand new 2000 Sebring LXI with ABS, less than 1000 miles on it. Here's the situation: Recently, I began to notice that the steering wheel would occasionally pull hard to one side during braking. I called my lying, scumsucking dirtbag of a Chrysler dealer (Patrick Chrysler in Libertyville, IL) and they told me to throw away my tire gauge - three tires were inflated to 29 psi and the left front one was inflated to 50 psi!!! After telling them that THEY were the ones who prepped my car not more than month and a half ago, they equalized the pressure in the tires and told me the problem was solved.

Then, driving home from work the other day, the wheel jerked to one side again during hard braking, just before the car rolled to a stop. I'm wondering if there is a more complex problem. Since it happens infrequently, I'm guessing that my dealer is going to say that there's nothing wrong. But this can't be the case, the car is brand spankin' new.

Lonny

LXiSebring: If you get the run around at the dealer who sold you the car take it to another CHrysler 5 star dealership & have them check the suspension & ball joints. Sebring wishbone front suspensions are complex, and no place for a service dept that doesn't fully understand what it is doing to run "experiments".


Eric C responds to dandl 2 ideas on the dead battery issue...1) the original battery is know to go bad in a short time. 2) Your security system may be draining your battery. 99% of the time it's issue #1


Nick Ratcliff

1999 Chrysler sebring LX
2.6 Liter V6
red ext. gray interior
woodgrain, cd, cassette, the whole shabang
what else do you need to know about my car?
Is there somehow I can supe up my engine performance?

LXiSebring: Send a pic if you can. THe guys at ASOG are good on performance ideas.


Jennifer Seward writes

Hello,

My name is Jen and I just purchased a pre-owned 1997 Chrysler Sebring LXI "with all the trimmings"..leather, CD/cassette/tape player, sunroof. At first, I felt very disheartened to be reading about so many complaints with the Sebring. I mean, when friends and family heard that I had one, they'd say, "Well, so-and-so had/has one and they just love it!!". And you also have to keep in mind that ANY car will have problems and, generally, the people who write to these websites are the ones who HAVE had problems and need somewhere to vent. I was involved in an accident in December of 1999 when I was rear-ended on the highway and pushed into the car in front of me. I was driving my beloved Santiago Green (minty green color) Mitsubishi Mirage LS Coupe, which I had had for 5 1/2 years and had just paid off three months prior. (Ain't that the way it works!?) I loved that car and IT had problems. Pretty early on, there was a crack in the head gaskett (shouldn't happen!!) and the car still proved to be a wonderful thing all in all. And dispute bad crash test results, (See? You can't believe everything you hear....) the car fared pretty well in my accident and suffered no mechanical damage (I drove it away after the accident). It was primarily cosmetic damage. I got a lot of compliments on that car pror to the accident. Long story short.....the car was declared "totaled", I collected a chunk of insurance money and drove the car for another three months. I always loved how the Sebrings looked (very classy!!) and stumbled upon one at a very reputable pre-owned car dealership. I test drove it and bought it for $13,100. It had 38,000 miles. It looks like it was taken very good care of, so I couldn't resist. (I just bought a house in November and the girl next door just moved in one week after I did. Guess what? SHE has a black Chrysler Sebring LXI. Makes me feel self-conscious every time I pull in or out of the driveway actually. I don't want her to think I'm taking "keeping up with the Joneses" just a tad bit too far!!) I've had my Sebring for almost six weeks and, lo and behold, the "check engine light" came on last week, BUT it went out after a day. I checked to make sure the gas cap was on tightly enough (it was) and I checked the oil level (perfectly fine). Should I be worried that it came on at all? I called the dealership to make an appointment right after it came on, but cancelled when it went out. Possibly, I'm just not used to having a car with all the bells and whistles, one with an OBD system that warns you of any tiny problem, but if I continue to have ANY other problems of that sort, I may have to say "bye-bye" to my brand-new, pre-owned Sebring Coupe. I'd hate to do that, so say something good about the car to make me feel better because I want to love this car. I really do! It sure LOOKS like it deserves it!! Thanks!

Jen

LXiSebring: Check engine lights come on for a variety of reasons, usually emissions sensor-related. In my view, a singfle instance of having the light come on is no big concern particularly if it goes right back off. If you really want to know why it came on, there is probably a code stored in the car's computer that will tell the dealer exacly what happened. But if it were my car, I would only get concerned if the light stayed on.


Lisa Johnson writes

Absolutely Love this site!!!! I have a '96 Chrysler Sebring Coupe Lx and I do some drag racing (bracket racing) with it. I am looking for performance parts and computer chips or programmers that would improve the performance of my car in the 1/8 mile. Can you help?


kamals writes

Hello, Congratulations on an interesting and informative site. I own a 1997 Lxi with a 6 cylinder engine and 17" wheels and have had a fantastic time with the car. I have purchased a K&N Filter for the car and it sounds great and performs better. I was wondering what other performance up- grades are available to Sebring owners like me?

LXiSebring:

ASOG is a great source of info on performance parts


Steve Vogel writes

Bought the car used in August of 1998 and had no problems with it until Jan 2000. Right wheel bearing when, comes only as a unit $200.00 now I have a right side leak around the door in the front and the door is hard to close yet it is not sagging or is the skirting coming off. I have been looking for a chiltons book on the car but no one seems to have one. Now all of the sudden the SRS light comes on and I am at a loss. I know the dealer will rob me on this one. What would cause it and can it be reset. Car has 72,000 miles on it and I love it but would like to understand it. Wanted to replace fuel filter and was told the gas tank has to come down to do it. Replaced plugs at 66,000 miles and car shop said they had never seen what they had to do to replace plugs.


Glen Sanders writes

I purchased my car August 7, 1999 and have driven it only 3,200 miles. Ilike the vehicle a lot but have a company car which allows me to use my car for strictly recreational use. I have noticed what seems to be an unusual wind/road noise which appears to come from the passenger door area and occurs even at relatively low speeds even in the city. Can you offer any suggestions as to what the problem might be. My e- mail address id gsanders@smf.co.sacramento.ca.us Thanks for any help.

LXiSebring: There have been some problems with leaks around windshields but thats the only clue I would have.


Eric responds to the following questions:

My name is Bob and I am looking for some custom floor mats to get my girlfriend for her '99 sebring. I am looking for something that will keep the water and ice off of the floor board in bad weather. If you happen to know of any place I can purchase some nice mats, or have them custome molded, can you please e-mail me. Her birthday is Mar 21 and I would really like to get her a set of these if they are available. Thanks

....Try your Dodge dealer I know there available for the Avenger.


Darren writes I have a 98 LXI Caffe Latte Sebring. Being the first and only owner, I've been able to experience all the "first time buyer" experiences.

....Your A/C compressor "cycles" this is normal, and the change in vent air temp causes mist.


Christian writes

Hey I just had a question....my name is Christian and I got the black LXi 98 on your page...do you know how to take out the amber part on the headlights?

....This requires cutting and glueing, a tough and nasty process that I dont recommend.



Jeffrey Bipes writes

Hi,

I need to inform you and others regarding my Sebring. Bear with me. I bought a 1995 blue/gray Sebring LX, V6 option package, in the late fall of '95. Loved the car right away. I thought it handled very well, even if it was not the most powerful. I noticed a problem with the torque converter, or the fact the transmission would not shift up properly. I noticed I had to really punch it, coming out of a curve/turn, to get the engine wound up, to get me the momentum I wanted going through these turns. I learned how to anticipate this, and have always driven it this way. I don't really like it, but I've learned to use it that way. I now have 72K miles on it, and have had similar problems that other users have had. I have been around the net recently, looking at the websites, found this one, and ASOG also.

I have replaced brake pads religiously at 17-18K miles. I just put on my 5th set. I buy them at a Mitsubishi dealer, 'cause they are a lot cheaper than the Chrysler/Dodge dealer. My rotors appear to be Ok. I have never had them turned or replaced, and they do not pulse or wobble. I'm also on my 3rd battery. The previous 2 simply died, dead. I suppose that could be considered normal, because I live in Minnesota, and the winters can be harsh. but since I have been reading reports, I have seen these 2 items mentioned the most, as problem areas.

I also had trouble with the front fascia. I have had it repaired twice, for about $300.00 each time. The rest of the paint is OK, with no bubbling or peeling. My interior seems to be OK also. I did have to replace *both* rear hubs, as the bearings were shot.

My latest problem, and the reason I have hit the web sites, is my ABS system. I had my light come on about a month ago. I took it to the dealer to read the codes, and I have complete failure of the hydraulic unit. At least that is what the guy told me. They want $2K to fix it. $1200 for the "part", and nearly $800 for labor (5 hours) I thought this was a bit excessive for a car that is worth $8K. I spoke to the guy who did the work ($82.00 to read the codes?) He said "Well, ya know, the pump is out there in front of the front tire, and well mud and water get up in der,and well the motor finally seizes up." Isn't that a dumb place to put it then?, I said. "Well watta ya gonna do? ya goon have her fixed? I'll take off the $82 bucks" I'll think about it. The actual code returned was 53, which denotes the pump relay. I asked the guy if it was just the relay, and the relay contacts. Could that be looked at? No. (Of course) gotta replace the whole thing.

I called the Mitsu. dealer, and read him the part number. They have it for $940, and will put it in for another $300. They can't figure out why the Dodge dealer wants so much for it. The Mitsu dealer says it's the same unit as in the Eclipse, and the book says it's a 2.5 hr job. I am planning to sell the car later this spring, and I'm torn between putting that amount of money in it, or leaving it.

The only time I have ever used the anti-locks, has been in winter, in the ice. I haven't been real impressed, because of all my years driving in snow and ice, I feel I have learned a better way of driving, than to rely on anti-lock brakes.

OK what it you take. If you were to buy a used car, would you want the anti-lock brakes to be working? Do you care?

The car drives and brakes fine, of course. Do you think I would stand a better chance of selling it with the brakes working? Dumb question, I suppose. Now I am planning to sell it for $7K, and let the buyer know of course, that the anti-locks are out, and show them the estimate. What are your thoughts?


My thought are that anti-lock brakes are an option on newer Sebrings, not standard equipment as they were when you purchased yours. For some buyers, whether or not theanti-locks worked would be of little concern. Other buys would fix, YOU need to find a buyer who does not care. I would discount the book price by about $500 if the ABS doesnt work.

Whenever you get into expensive repairs, its always best to have a second opinion as to repair cost. I would try a Chrysler 5 star dealer & see what they have to say about ABS. I've seen too many people spend lots of money on incorrect diagnosis!

ABS working or not, Sebrings have held their values well. Not many other domestic models would be worth what a Sebring is after 5 years.


James Behrens

My fiance and I just purchased a 2000 Sebring LX. We weren't even planning to purchase the sebring, until it caught our eye on the showroom floor. After test driving it..... well... we had to get it. But we just settled for the LX. The only thing that we would have liked would have been the sunroof. But we saved a few grand with this car. Our car is Ice Silver, has the wood finish center console, 2.5 Liter V6, 6 speaker system and in about 2 weeks... tinted windows. I was wondering if there were any sites that offered aftermarket products for the 2000 sebring? If so.. could you please help us.

Thanks, try The ASOG guys


Steve Vogel writes

I have a 1996 sebring that I purchased in Aug 1998. I ran great for the first year. Had to replace the right front wheel bearing. Cost was 199.00 comes only as an entire assembly. Now I have an srs light on for no apparent reason. I love the car but don't know why all the problems all the suddend. I have 72,000 miles on it and change oil and filter every 2,000 miles.


Jeff Timmons writes

Dave I was wonder if you knew anybody that would be interested in buying my Sebring. My Sebring is silver with a spoiler, black 1/2 bra, black headlight covers, 16' American Sniper rims, tinted windows, alarm system, and all the extra things you can have with the LXI version. All the problems you have described in your article I have fixed and all that equaled up to close to $5,000. The car does not even have 100,000 miles on it yet. I need to sell because I need to get a car off of the ground. If you know anyone interested please e-mail me back at jtimmons@frankgates.com thanks. I am asking for $15,000 but will negotiate. Thanks for your time. If you e-mail me back I will enclose a picture of it.

James writes Hello, I have a 1998 sebring coupe. and some of the problems that I notice is the brake light. I do not know if I bring it in if they will fix it for free or not. and also the side of the car looks like it dents in when there is no dents. and the tires for this car is rediculous. around 200 dollars per tire. and another thing is the lack in power. I have yet to find out about a chip to put in it . I can not find one if you know please send me that information.. but all in all I like this car alot because of it's sleek look. I have had many complements on it. thank you plese e mail me back

LXiSebring: Yes, I was pricing the GT RS tires used as OEM on the Sebring at the Goodyear store andd they are $209 a tire. I cant't believe Chrysler pays anywhere near this for them.


Lonny White writes

My Sebring is
2000 Sebring LXI, Indy Red
Grey Leather Interior
ABS
Sunroof
Premium Infinity Sound
424! miles


Kay Frank writes

I have a wonderful, black Chrysler Sebring LXI '98 that I bought second hand from the dealer and I later learned that it had been in a wreck. The dealer's mechanics told me when i brought the car in to have them check on a rattle. The dealer had not told me about the prior accident.

This first question doesn't have anything to do with the sebring, but what is a dealer's responsibility to a buyer in this regard. Is it still buyer beware? I thought a dealer gave us assurances as to quality in that their mechanics look at the car.

LXiSebring: The laws here vary by state, but if the car has been in a serious wreck it is often noted on the title. Minor damage is different, and here it's "buyer beware" Most cars probably have some body repair at some point in their lives.

Secondly, I had to have my car towed yesterday because it would go into gear but would not go anywhere. The dealer has not looked at it yet (too booked up) but I am scared about possible transmission problems and that is so expensive. Why would a 44,000 mile sebring have this kind of problem other than it was damaged in an accident? Have there been transmission problems with this car? I imagine it is due to the accident.

Not necessarily. There have been assorted problems with the transmissions of Sebrings with relatively low miles. Have your dealer diagnose the problem and if it is expensive to fix, have the dealer service manager call Chrysler customer relations on your behalf. There are often hidden warranties on parts just out of the normal warranty period, particular if Chrysler has been having a problem with a part. Chrysler might cover part or all of the repair cost depending on the specific diagnosis and what they believe the underlying cause was.

Lastly, I think I should repair it and trade it in on something else. What do you think? I am a widow and don't have anyone to talk these things over with, so I appreciate your help.

LXiSebring: THat's your decision. Personally I doubt that the accident and the transmission problem are related, tho the dealer gets low marks for not being up front with you about the car's history. Unfortunately, this behavior on the part of dealers is pretty common.

Now lastly, is there a sebring with antilock brakes?

LXiSebring:Antilock brakes were standard on LXi models in the 95 and 96 model year, but an $800 option I believe since 1997 or 98 on all models.


Glen Sanders writes

I purchased my Caffe Latte Coupe August 8, 1999. Asd a long time BMW owner I am very impressed with the Sebring and love the way it drives and handles. My concern is that I have heard may stories of transaxle failures, and since I have until August of this year to purchase an extended warrantee I am looking for advice/suggestions. Please advise your thoughts to gsanders@smf.co.sacramento.ca.us Thanks.


Robert A. Kingsolver writes

My name is Bob and I am looking for some custom floor mats to get my girlfriend for her '99 sebring. I am looking for something that will keep the water and ice off of the floor board in bad weather. If you happen to know of any place I can purchase some nice mats, or have them custome molded, can you please e-mail me. Her birthday is Mar 21 and I would really like to get her a set of these if they are available. Thanks,


Mike writes

Hey, I got my '97 Sebring about a month ago. It's Indy Red, with grey leather interior, sunroof, and I am absolutely loving it so far. I was wondering if someone could answer a question for me. If the car is equipped with the alarm that set when you lock the doors from inside, is it supposed to come with a remote for the locks as well. The dealership seemed unsure as to if it was missing or if there wasn't one. If anyone can help me out please e-mail me. Otherwise I'll just keep lookin to the page for any other info and see you guys later. I love the page.

LXiSebring: So far as I know, the answer is "yes"


Karl Thoennes III writes

To: LXiSebring@aol.com Thanks very much for your web page on Chrysler Sebrings. After driving my maroon 1992 Eagle Talon for 300,000 miles, I went car shopping this week, and I'll probably buy a 1997 Sebring. I loved my Talon, and when I read your info about the Mitsu manufacturing, and the Talon ancestry of the car, I understood why I liked the Sebring so quickly and naturally. Thanks again.P.S. Do you happen to know, do these cars have the same chronic timing belt problems as the Talons?

LXiSebring: I have not heard of ANY timing belt problems with the Sebring coupe, 4 or 6. There could be some, but they haven't come to me.


Darren writes I have a 98 LXI Caffe Latte Sebring. Being the first and only owner, I've been able to experience all the "first time buyer" experiences. I have included a picture for your viewing pleasure. The first thing I noticed was on a long trip to Florida. I had to turn off the air conditioning several times because it froze up. I noticed this when mist starting coming from the vents. I simply turned the AC off for about 20 minutes and then it was ok. This happened about 3 times on a 15 hour trip. This has never occurred again since. Second, the cruise control will not work over 85 mph. Third, the passenger side door cladding starting (almost) falling off. This was replaced by the dealership as well, however it did take three months for it to come in. Fourth but not last, the rear view mirror with the compass in it has a liquid substance that is used for the auto tinting when those annoying drivers drive behind you with their brights on, stating pooling at the bottom of the mirror. This was replaced by the dealership at no cost. Last, and most importantly, the factory forgot to install the nut for the lower left A arm. I was experiencing a "shimmy" motion when turning into right hand corners. If the bolt would have backed off, I would have lost the whole wheel assembly. Thanks for listening and feel free to email me with your experiences.


Hogti writes

I own a sebring 96 and have just replaced the transmission is this normal? It was not cheap.

LXiSebring: No. What was wrong with the tranny? How many miles on it?


adam writes

Hi, I'm Adam and I've got a '95 sebring LXi I bought it January 1, 1999. I'd be interested in joining the club)also, where can i find some enhancement/modification stuff? i've been looking heavily lately, but have only turned up a few spoilers and window tints! I'm also looking at a pair of projector beam headlight covers, but they only have them for 97-sebrings. would they fit the headlights on my 95, or was the headlight design changed?

LXiSebring: The guys at www.asog.net are the experts in the aftermarket and modification parts.


Jean writes

My daughter asked me to search the net for Sebring problems. She has the 1996 model. She hears a very low tick-tick-ticking sound from the (motor?). Her warranty is about to expire and she is very concerned about this tick. She has taken it to the shop many times in the past 3-4 years. The service men say they cannot hear it. The last service man reported that he only "heard purge SOLENOID clicking." My husband can hear the sound. Has this problem been reported? Is it a concern? Comments will be appreciated.

Ps, Last week I bought the Sebring 2000 Convertible in Champaign Pearl Metallic with cafe-latte interior. It is a honey. We also noticed the different color tones, depending upon the time of day and the weather. Neat.

Eric responds:The tech is right it is an emissions valve,but there is a TSB on this if he looks it up it will give him the part #. Get it done before your waranty runs out. By the way it's not a serious problem and it usually comes and goes depending on the heat range. It's also very very common.


Michael Ruuska writes

I purchased a Chrysler Sebring last year, it was a used car but only had 35,000 miles on it. It looked great, a new ride compared to what I was used to. Since I have owned the car it has been in the shop for numerous things.At first it was the lateral control arms that sent me for a loop.Luckily I was in a parking lot when the first one went out,the dealer failed to mention the recall and it cost me almost a thousand dollars to repair. The second one soon followed after I have moved to Minneapolis Mn. It wasn't till there when they told me about the recall which that time saved me from another six hundred dollars worth of work. I have tried to look past the "small" things that always seemed to happen to just me. When I contacted Chrysler about the recall they told me that my vehicle was a total loss title and that they would not refund any money owed to me for labor and parts. After fighting with them to take my plea into consideration they finally "gave in". (golly those folks are nice) When I contacted the dealer about the total loss mark on my car,they reassured me that the title was clear and they couldn't understand what Chrysler was talking about. Well it turns out the first owner of my shinny new piece of junk had it stolen from her. And that is why the total loss was on record. But the dealer still sold it to me clean,what's up with that. Don't you think a perspective customer should know if a bunch of delinquents went for a cruise and did who knows what in it. Well after all this I tried to maintain,But yet again I am left sitting on my butt waiting for my car to be fixed. Last Sunday night I was driving home and the transmission blew up on me. I had it towed to the dealer where I had originally purchased my piece of crap. And they said it was going to cost me.......BIG surprise. Well I just thought I would send this to you seeing as how you know so much about my particular car. If you have any news or info on what I can do please contact me at my return address.

LXiSebring: Might I suggest a good lawyer? If it indeed was a total loss title then the dealer was acting illegally in not revealing that to you.



Connie Hager writes

I just happen to come across your web site and thought I would write you with a problem I've been having with my 1997 Sebring Coupe. I've experienced problems with the mirror lamps and lights not coming on when doors are opened - which was a wiring harness door frame switch grounding out so they replaced it and little things like that but most recently I've really started having problems.

I have a problem with the car not wanting to start - it turns over but will not start. This problem is very random but very frustrating. The problem started in Sept. of 1999 and they have tried everything. I've even had it towed in once when it would not start but it started right up for them. They replaced the battery on one visit, reprogramed the computer on another visit, and then one weekend the car would not start Sat., Sun., and Monday. If you keep trying or wait 15-20 min. it might start so I just keep messing with it and eventually it will start. I got so mad that that Monday when I finally got the car started I drove to the dealership and told them to keep it until it would not start for them - they drove it everyday and kept trying to get it to act up - they had the car for a week and a half. They then put a portable computer hookup in the car - I was to drive it until it acted up and press the computer button so it would register what was happening. I had the computer hookup for two weeks and finally the car would not start. They then said they were almost positive that it was the fuel pump. The next week on a Tue. they put in the new fuel pump and all was well - so we thought. Friday that week my would not start! I of course called and let them know. I am so so so very frustrated!!!!!

I've been lucky that this has not cost me anything as of yet due to the fact the problem started while the vehicle was in warrenty - but as of now the vehicle is no longer in warrenty - today the mileage is 900 over warrenty.

At this point all I want is to get rid of the car - I have no idea what to do from this point - the dealership service dept. said they would talk to Chrysler and see if they have any idea what to try next to remedy the problem. This is my first experience with a Chrysler vehicle and also my first time to lease a vehicle. I do not think I will ever lease another vehicle and I'm not sure I will even consider another Chrysler product.

Besides telling me I'm crazy to lease do you have any suggestions at this point? I would like to hear your opinion.

LXiSebring: I'm still wondering if that replacement battery had a bad cell. The symptoms you describe are very similar to the problem I had in August, 1999. THey also cleaned the gizmo that controls fuel at startup/idle, and My car has started 100% since then.

Connie Responds:

Well - the car will not act up for the dealer! When I had it towed in - the car started right up then. When they had it for the week and a half it started every time. When it would not start for me this past Fri. and I called the dealer they told me to press the gas petal down to the floor and try to start it - it did start right up but kept stalling out -I had to drive home with the gas petal pressed almost all the way down and the brake on. The dealer said they would call me after they talked to Chrysler to see what else they can try. Let me know if you have any other suggestions and I will tell them what you said about your problems. Thanks!

LXiSebring: Give the dealer another shot at fixing it--this appears to be a fuel system related not battery problem if it starts and then stalls.


Christian writes

Hey I just had a question....my name is Christian and I got the black LXi 98 on your page...do you know how to take out the amber part on the headlights?

LXiSebring: I dunno but the guys at ASOG might know.


Eric Howell writes

I own a 97 model LXi. Its black with the grey leather interior and spoked 17 in wheels and tires. Its been a great car so far, with 47,000 miles so far. However, i too experienced the dead battery problem not long after purchase. I had one sparkplug foul for no apparent reason, but that was very minor and a warranty job. I have the mother of all problems with my alarm though. the alarm has went off alot over the past couple of years even when it was not armed. the factory and dealer never found the reason. now, its one of those sleeping problems. it just hasnt went off unexpectedly lately. im attaching a pic of my car. If u know of any merchendise catalogs or accessories catalog for our Sebring addiction, please send them to me. Thanks.

LXiSebring: Check the switch along the passenger side of the edge of the hood. Often the hood doesn't hold that down securely, and the alarm goes off in strange ways. Stick a small wad of tape just above the switch to secure it better. Have you had particular problems with the alarm giong off unexpectedly in very warm weather or after the car has been driven hard?


Bill Hetherson writes

I have a 1996 LXi. I have had a number of problems since I bought it but I still enjoy its outstanding looks and comfortable ride. please enroll me as a club member.


BIGGIE writes

Hey I love your site.. and I own two sebrings... well one is totaled .. I crashed a 95lxi in silver mist... and i almost died in it.. if it wasn't for the airbags I wouldn't be typing to you write now.. and believe me i was in a 4 impact accident.. I took out an aluminum light post that weighs a ton... and that car let me live.. and the other sebring i own is a 96 convertible... i will send you before and after pics of my hardtop... one more thing...can you please find out where beairs got that wing on his sebring!!!! please find out for me... i am looking for the rims that "renaldo" has in that pic on your web site.. could you do me the biggest favor and ask him or her what the dimensions and sizes and company that makes those wheels ".... also do you know of a web site for the convertible? anyways I love your web site and I love the sebring... keep up the good work and please post these pics... thanx .. biggie...


Christian writes

Hi my name is Christian Vargas and here is a photo of my Black '98 LXi This website is tight man. I love all those pics you got of the Sebrings. I also had a question. I want to lower my Sebring but i dont know how much i should lower it. They sell springs for a 1.3 drop or a 1.5 drop. Which one do you recommend i get??

LXiSebring: Good Question! does anyone know?


Jessica writes

Hi there.... I was once part of the club but its been a while since I've been on the page and my last name has changed since then. I'm now Jessica Ellis. Anyway, I own a '99 Sebring LXI (Indy Red) I have quite a few concerns about my car and want to check in on the web site more often then I did when I first bought it in February of 99. Its been a year now and I'm very pleased with how my car looks but it seems like the quality isn't all I've paid for... Anyway, I'll be keeping in touch.n fact, I love the appearance of my car!!! But right now I'm not the happiest Sebring Owner. Being that its new I probably shouldn't have ANY concerns. Well, I don't have just one, I've got several... For one, my doors are leaking black tar on both sides so that when people get in and out they have to be careful not to step in it and get it in the car.... my brake light has been coming on.... and the spring on the drivers door handle (inside) broke and its hard to open and close the door... I'm am a small female so I know I'm NOT slamming my door or pulling too hard.... I'm not very happy with my investment - I mean having all these problems with a BRAND NEW CAR. The tar thing is really not a good thing... It looks so unattractive when I open my doors...my sunroof makes squeaky noises sometimes.... Also, when I wash the car water comes in... Has anyone heard about any of these things I've written about? Just curious...

LXiSebring: The "tar" is probably a bit of excess sealant that was applied during manufacturing. YOur dealer should be able to remove it. Some owners have been having problems with the brake light coming on, and the fixes have varied but you should be able to track it down. The door handle spring should be covered under warranty.


MPu4 writes

I think I've e-mailed you once before. I don't expect you to remember. My new question is if you have had any people writing in about problems the aluminum wheels on the Sebring. I'm having all sorts of problems with them and I understand I'm not the only one. Because they are aluminum, the material does not adjust well to the tire in inclument weather. Since I live near Chicago, we get plenty of snow. I've have already experienced four flat tires and I had to buy a new wheel for $165. I purchased a new aluminum wheel just a couple days before I learned that I should have purchased a steel wheel. Have you heard of this problem?

LXiSebring: Nope--I have head of manufacturing flaws in the wheels that led to slow tire leaks, but not this problem. Anyone?


Andrew Roberts writes

Purchased a 97 sebring new10-05-97 have got the extended warrenty too. had it back to dealer 3-31-98 for brake light comes on when car pulls left fillied master cylinder got two blocks took it back light on dont know what they did but kept it 2 hours and it came back fixed. of course i didnt get receipt for taking it back just for master cylinder fill now they dont have a record... 05-12-99 mileage 17090 machined rotors and surface sanded pads. cost 100.00 with dealer coupon not covered warrenty. 09-10-99 back to dealer(TOWED) brakes again front brakes worn out. not covered again pad kit, rotors . for a total of 484.16. guess what its 02-06-00 and its sitting down at the dealer Towed again brakes. they tell me its not covered and there was no chrysler service bulletin for that. yet all thru your web sites its mentioned. is there anyway to get answers to how i get that bulletin. I would be grateful to your answer to this problem. thank you

I dont think there is a TSB on premature brake pad wear but there are aftermarket parts which apparently resolve the premature brake wear problem. See Eric's note above as well as the letter below. What I hate about extended warranties is that they dont cover the stuf that commonly wears out. I am a bit lost as to why you need to tow the car. Do the brakes go bad suddenly? Normally brake wear is gradual.


Paul writes

I'm thinking about installing those brakes you recommended and was wondering where Ralph/Olympic is located, I noticed the wax place was in NJ and I'm not too far away. Any chance Olympic is close by? If not, any suggestions as to where I can purchase them?

Eric Says:

Here's the link : Olympic. Ask for Ralph. Tell him Eric sent you.


Lexi writes

I would be interested to know if other owners of 1995 Sebrings' have had a problem with an irritating noise from under the hood, heard only if standing outside the vehicle My dealer told me that the noise was a "Purge Solenoid" which is part of the Fuel Emission System and is not something to worry about. I however, am extremely worried since I am trying to sell it and all potential buyers don't like the noise and never return. Have you heard of this problem with anyone else who owns a 1995 Sebring???

LXiSebring responds:

yah thats the famous "ticking sound" All 95 sebrings tick--your dealer has a revised part I think that eliminates some of the ticking sound and might quiet it down for resale--I'm not sure what the replacement part costs--I think they used it on 96 and later cars.

We 95 owners just see the noise as part of the car's "charm" and pay no attention to it at all...


Doug Leddon writes

just want to hear if you keep hearing that 98' sebring LXi are having alot of problems? please try to contact me at markdj454@yahoo.com thanks


Wilfried Stoeger writes

I had my recall #827 work performed September '99. I was unfortunate enough to have had torn boots. The reason I say "unfortunate" is that I have had a ever increasing vibration in my car. This vibration appears at around 50 - 70mph and then becomes more faint. It is particularly bad under acceleration within this speed range i.e. going up a hill. It literally shakes the steering wheel out of ones hands.

Once the dealership performing the warranty work discovers torn boots, they have to replace some parts identified on my invoice as "MR325005 - Arm Later" & " MR296296 - Arm FR SU".

In one of the e-mails posted on the Sebring owners page I remember reading about arms that were installed on a '95 Sebring but were in fact arms for a '96 Sebring. The author of that e-mail states that the '96 arms are longer than the '95 version arms. He claims to have talked to some tech guys at Chrysler who verified this fact.

The problem is, that I can't locate this e-mail anymore. Could you tell me if you have heard of this scenario before and/or know who posted the afore mentioned e-mail. I'd love to take this info to my Chrysler dealer who claims that none of their mechanics including their most senior ones can figure out what is causing this problem?!

I appreciate any help or info.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- LXiSebring: The letter on the 1998 listings actually refers to a 97 model with 96 control arms installed. Here is the letter.

Don Cave responds to Shannon Carlson Shannon, I have owned my 97 Sebring almost 2 months now I had the same pulling problem as you have described. After about 5 trips to the dealer (Approx. 15 days in the shop) and multiple alignments and a complete new set of tires and wheels the problem was still not fixed. Finally it was discovered the car was built with '96 control arms which were on a bulletin as defective. Once the were replaced with the correct 97 parts the problem of pulling has been resolved. Why or how defective parts were installed in the first place is a mystery. I currently have the car back in the shop for a slight vibration which they tell me is balancing. I hope this helps get your problem resolved, your dealer can probably contact my dealer in Nashville (Hansen Chrysler) for details


Pwell1 writes

Just happened upon your site while searching AOL. I've got a 99 Sebring LXi in white. I love the car, though I wish it were a bit stronger in the horsepower department. I've had it now for six months, and Chrysler did have to put a new transaxle in @ 5300 miles. The tranny whined at med speed from day one, but they kept taking a let's wait and see attitude. Finally, they decided to replace it. It does still whine a bit when decelerating though. I am curious as to whether this is a common malady. Well, just thought I'd say hello. Great luck with the site. By the way, isn't that a pretty cool commercial with the LXi & the JXi racing back and forth to the one lane bridge?

LXiSebring: Yup it is!


ABartelli writes

I'm Thinking of Buying a 1996 Sebring LXi Coup. Black Body Silver Trim and Rear Spoiler. THe Car has high Mileage 88000, but looks very good in and out. Any Thoughts. The Dealer wanted $9600 got him down to $8600. On the Kelly Blue Book site the car with all options and Mileage goes for $11,385.

LXiSebring: (1) Check the underside of the front fascia for damage-- expensive to repair & easily done. (2) Drive it at speed down the highway to make certain it doesnt pull to one side (3) check to make sure transmission shifts properly when it should without clunks or groans (4) check operation of electronic gizmos, power windows, mirrors, CD player especially if it has on and operation of sunroof. (5) Have the dealer install a new battery whether it appears to need one or not. (6) Check to make sure body cladding is firmly attached all around. You will need one soon--in general transmissions and suspensions have been more problematic than engines, according to the mail.


DCEE20 writes

I enjoy reading your website. I have purchased a '99 coupe and do love the car. There have been a few minor problems, incluing loose door cladding that the dealer has fixed for me. My problem really is that the windshield is very warped in places and drives me nuts. I was looking at the Intrepids and found the windshield to be a major problem while renting one, I could not drive it more that ten minutes without a headache. Does anyone else have this warped windshield problem with the '99 Sebring? What is the best way to fix it?


MARGIE writes

I have a 98 chyrsler lxi coupe- I am having a noise in the transmission,so I took the car to my five star dealer . That is where I bought the car. So the say it is a torque converter. The car has been there for 12 days and they had a time putting the car back together..So I call today and now they say there still is a noise and is getting ahold of CHRYSLER to find out what the want to do about it..WHAT IN THE WORLD DO I DO NOW---TELL ME ABOUT THE LEMON LAW PLEASE AND WHAT STEPS I NEED TO TAKE -- THANKS--- THE CAR HAS ONLY 22 THOUSAND MILES ON IT--

LXiSebring: Patience, Patience--with that milage this is Chrysler's problem and they will have to get it fixed to your satisfaction. If they are talking to Chrysler engineers, they will get to the bottom of it.


LXiSebring: I've edited this letter a bit to avoid the potential for a lawsuit from the dealer (grin).

Rich writes

I was told that I should send you this story of my new car buying experience from my local dealer, and the plague of problems I am still facing to date. First of all I want to say I feel I have bought the $24,000.00 car from hell, a 1999 Sebring coupe LXI. I have spoke to representatives at both the dealership and Chrylser Corp., both of which have brushed me aside saying that neither is responsible except to repair the vehicle under warranty. I have had the vehicle for approx 45 days now, and driven less than 15 due to service related problems, and its currently back in the service dept. I have been lied to on two diffrent occassions by the dealership about who was allowed to drive it after I had put an earnest deposit on it, and that they would replace the vehicle, which has not been done. There comes a time when just fixing the vehicle isnt good enough.

I didn't buy a new vehicle to take it in the service dept and have every part replaced one by one. The vehicle falls under the lemon law, as it has been in for 4 consecutive repairs on the same issue, but still they refuse to replace it. I want the Dealership to replace the vehicle and then they can take it and put a whole staff of repair technicians on it for the next 5 years if they choose, just give me one that works. I have been through enough frustration, and mental anguish for one car buying experience. I am a first time and first generation Chrysler buyer, and I guarantee you that I will never buy another, nor reccomend one to anyone I know, if this is what Chrysler buyers must go through for satisfaction. I have included below the list of things that have gone wrong with the vehicle for your information. I think the public needs to know that both Chrysler and my dealer do not care whether there customers are unhappy about a car sale, as long as the bottom line shows a profit in there favor.

Vehicle purchase date: 12-16-1999

Odometer reading when test drove, and signed the odometer statement: 1258 miles..

Odometer reading after (Owners daughter or who ever drove it) 1326 miles.

Odometer reading to date: 2126 miles.

The main onboard computer module was replaced

The Electric seat motor was replaced or adjusted

The Driver door motor was replaced or adjusted

The Electric mirror switch was replaced two times

The Brake Switch was malfunctioning and had to be adjusted

The electronic rear view mirror compass module is on back order and needs to be replaced

When they worked on the driver side door window motor, they messed up the door handle and it closes incorrectly.. they have tried to repair it back to normal operation 4 times to date. (the door handle is on back order now and will be replaced)

They have replaced the right front tire and rim due to damage after someone drove the vehicle after I put a deposit on it.

A ding in the hood was repaired due to damage after someone drove the vehicle after I put a deposit on it.

New keys were cut, and new remotes programmed due to loss after someone drove the vehicle after I had put a deposit on it. Only one set of the new keys work at this time.

The Dealer states the car looses approx. 3 to 4 thousand dollars in value when a customer drives it off the lot. After I put an earnest deposit on the vehicle someone was allowed to drive the vehicle, I was told the owners daughter by my sales rep by the Sales Manager that was a lie, that the owners daughter did not drive it. But some one did, and they should bare the brunt of the 3 to 4 thousand dollar loss the dealer now says I have lost.

The car is in service now 1-26-2000, because it has a delay in ignition, wont start and the service department does not know what is causing it right now. The Service Department was told by Chrysler that they should try de- carbonizing the engine to make sure there was no carbon build up, thus causing the start delay. They put chemicals in the vehicle to de- carbonize. I was told that this took care of the problem and I could come pick it up on 1-28-2000. The defective door handle was put on backorder, and the defective electronic rear view mirror was replaced.

The morning of 1-31-2000, I went to start the vehicle to go to work and again it would not start for almost 10 minutes. After repeated try's it finally started. Again when leaving work it would not start, and took approx. 15 minutes to start. I wanted to stop for gas on the way home and got out of the vehicle, the factory alarm started going off, and wouldn't stop. I turned the vehicle on and off several times, and locked it and unlocked it several times with negative results. By this time I was getting quite a crowd and it was turning into a very embarrassing situation. I opened the hood and started pulling fuses, still with negative results. I pulled the fuse from the fuse panel inside the vehicle cabin marked alarm system and still it did not do any good to stop the audible alarm and lights flashing. I got back into my vehicle and just drove home. I pulled it into the garage and left it till the alarm went off. I called a dealer and advised him of the situation with starting the vehicle and the alarm problem, and made an appointment to bring it in the following morning. This morning, 2-1-2000 I again tried to leave my residence for work at approx. 6 a.m., I opened the door to get in the vehicle and the alarm system went off again. It took me 12 attempts and 8 minutes to get the vehicle started. I'm sure my neighbors appreciated the loud noise at 6 a.m. this morning. I could not get gas on the way to the dealership for fear of embarrassment upon opening the vehicle door again and setting off the alarm. I have left the vehicle at the dealership, upon exiting in the service department bay, the alarm went off again, and they had to pull it outside due to the noise.

LXiSebring: I particularly like that carbon buildup theory on a car with 2126 miles on it!


Preston Dickerson writes

My Name is Preston Dickerson. I bought a 96 lxi white/blueish pearl sebring today ....It has gray Leather interior, Tape/cd player, sunroofwoodgrain dash, 17inch chrome rims... I have never drove a car that has a ride and handling like it.... I think everyone needs to own a SEBRING , i'm just glad there is a group of Lucky owners of this wonderful Car...... Keep up the good work


Justin Harrison writes

Hey! I turned 16 and started driving in July of '99 and found the best car EVER later in November after bugging my parents and always taking either the '94 Range Rover or the '98 BMW. The car salesman didn't even bother to mention or point out the white with pearl running boards '96 Chrysler Sebring LXi in the center of the lot because he thought it would be to "family" for me. The second i got in, I knew I had found thee One. Well, it's been bliss. I wouldn't trade my car for anything and can't stand driving my parents cars! BMW is too touchy and Range Rovers take alot more then a touch to get them going anywhere. I haven't had any problems yet except for a high pitch hum coming from my wheels but it is gone when i apply the brakes or go over 60 mph. i have made many subtle modifications to the body and interior itself (I'm a do-it-yourself kinda guy) and will post pictures once i find an exact match for the pearl silver running boards. does anyone know of the exact name or make-up of that paint? i can't find it anywhere. But don't worry yet fellow owners, I need the paint for the underside of the bumper because I bottom-out ocasionally as well as some other "projects" I have planned. see ya on the road!

LXiSebring: Every car has a paint code number on it. I'm not sure where its located on the Sebring, but the people at the Chrysler parts dept will be able to give you the code. Armed with that code you can get an auto paint store to make you up a spray can of the exact color. You will also need a spray can of clear coat.


GANTSKIDS writes

Please add my name to the membership of the Sebring club. I kinda "tripped" over this site totally by accident! I was looking up information on my garage door opener, and Sebring popped up! At any rate I found this site very informative especially the common problem of warped rotors! My info is as follows

97 Sebring LXI coupe
V6 automatic
Bright white


Phillip & Jaime Gordon write

Hi, we are having problems with our 95 Sebring Lxi, and we think that it is the crank sensor, could you tell us where to locate this at on our car?

LXiSebring: I'm not certain where this is. If you know drop Phillip & Jaime a note


M. N. Burnley writes

I KNOW I bought one of the best performing cars out on the market! My 1998 chrysler Sebring coupe is quick, comfortable, and reliable. This car can turn heads! I must also admit my Pewter Blue Sebring LXi has to be THE sexiest car made! I love showing off my car on the Las Vegas Strip at night cause I know I've got one hot ride!


Rich writes

Rich up in this....17 year old with his first car .....a dope a** 2K sebring......got it in nov. .....i just wanted to know how much horse power a 2000 sebring has and if it is capable of beating a 2000 honda accord or civic on a street race, 1/4 mile or on a take off???.....

LXiSebring:The only quarter mile and 0-60 data I have is from Motor Trend for the '95 V6 Avenger. 0-60 is reported at 10.0 seconds and quarter mile 17.1 seconds at 78.2 mph. Since then the V6 has gone from 155 to 163 hp. THe comparable numbers for the 99 Accord coupe are 0-60 7.4 seconds and quarter mile 15.8 seconds at 89.9 mph. But the Accord V6 is rated at 200 hp and the curb weight is several hundred pounds less. I expect the V6 in the redesigned 2001 Sebring model to be rated at about 200 hp as well.


James Bourque writes

Hi I just purchased 1995 Chrysler Sebring LXI with only 32k miles it has every avail option. I was wondering is there a page I can research any recalls on my vehicle and avail accessories to purchase such as mats, plate frames etc.

LXiSebring Check out the ASOG website Several of the guys there keep a close watch on aftermarket parts and accessories for Sebrings. THere is some stuff at Great Cars Great Trucks website as well. And the parts dept at your local Chrysler dealer has stuff like mats, bike racks and bras as well.


Celllawman writes

I own a '97 Chrysler Sebring LXi that I bought new in July 1997 and which I have driven approximately 39,500 miles. It is loaded with every option, and has the "paprika" pearl coat with tan/black leather interior (I had to have this exterior/interior color combination). Having fixed all the aesthetic problems I felt the 1995-96 Sebrings possessed, Chrysler got my business for what was to be my first new car. I'm not sure Chrysler will see me as a repeat customer.

I, too, have experienced numerous problems with my Sebring. My initial problem occurred at delivery and continued for a few thousand miles; the tailpipe would rattle upon startup and upon exiting/entering the angled transition from my driveway to the street. Two trips to the dealership produced no explanation, but the rattle mysteriously disappeared after the second trip. The decklid spoiler also showed waterspots during my first year of ownership, but have since disappeared. I've also experienced a problem with the theft-deterrent system; on three separate occasions, the system would suddenly and unexpectantly sound off when I unlocked the doors via the key or the key fob. Three trips to the dealership again produced no explanation. I believe one more occurrence this year with this problem qualifies this car as a "lemon." I also replaced the battery in November '99 at 36, 400 miles -- after the factory warranty conveniently expired. This last problem was the only time my Sebring left me stranded - luckily it occurred in my garage and I could drive my '91 Blazer that day.

Notwithstanding the above-mentioned problems, the car has been a dream. With cleaning and conditioning several times a year, the leather seats get better with age (and do not tear/crack, like those that are not properly cared for). Since my job frequently takes me to Chicago, the car also has protected me from harm. For example, in May 1999, I was rear-ended by a '95 Chrysler Concorde on the I-90. Even though the Concorde lost the battle (smashed grille, headlights, fenders and hood), my Sebring only sustained a slightly scuffed bumper and a broken license plate frame. Once I got home, I buffed out the scuffs and replaced the $12 frame.

I guess my relationship with my Sebring is love-hate. If it weren't my first new car and I wasn't so smitten with how handsome it is, I probably wouldn't be complaining. From the responses you've received from other Sebring owners, my car's problems are not that bad -- only minor annoyances. For that, I'm grateful, but worried about the long-term health of my Sebring. I wished I had purchased the extended warranty.


Doug writes

I emailed you a few months ago about my disposable (ie only 20K wear before replacement) brake problem on my '97 Sebring Coupe. I'm ready for a new set and lost the email you sent me on your recommendation for aftermarket brakes that have longer wear. Any chance you could send me the info again? Dropped it off yesterday for its 90K checkup just after the check engine idiot light came on. I'll pass on the Mopar brakes and await your recommendations. Thanks

LXiSebring: See Eric's brake part number list at top of site.


Greg McCourt writes

Yesterday I purchased a '96 Sebring LXi, what an awesome car! Mine is the Spanish Olive color, and I have seen it look olive, blue, and steel colored. Any tips for a new Sebring owner? I bought it as a daily driver so that I could keep my custom truck out of rush hour traffic and in the garage. Thanks for the page.

I've been building a custom truck for 5 years now, and it has gotten to the point where it needs to be garaged more to reduce routine maintenance on high-end custom components. Went looking for a driver and found the Sebrings. Finally spotted a steal on a Spanish Olive '96 LXi, leather, sunroof, etc. I've only had the car a few days but I love it. The day after I bought it I drove it across state to return to school. I love this car. Having initially thought I would never drive a car, I can be seen in this one!

After reading the other posts I notice some others have had the whistling noise at high speeds. It seemed to come from the windscreen perimeter. Also, my LXi came with a cassette deck, all I own are CDs. How much difficulty/cost is involved in changing over to a factory CD player? You all have me nervous on the brakes, I bought this as something to be dependable. Please advise. Other than that this is a beautiful car that I am happy with and thank you for the site.

Eric says

You have a beautiful car. 96 is the only year for that color so its sorta rare. I have seen Avengers and Eclipses in that color as well, but there scarce too. Email me with any questions on brakes, etc. By the way you can get the CD/tape combo for $400 at 1 800 4 airbag.


BIG TEE writes

My name is big tee from Brooklyn N.Y. I have what few Sebring owners have & that's the best color ever invented by Chrysler & that's the light Autumnwood peal coat! In may 00 my car will be four years old & to date people from all ages from little kids to adults have complimented me on the color of my Sebring. My love for this car increases with time. Chrysler really out did it when they invented the Sebring. I have a 96' fully loaded with customized 17' chrome polo rims. I also decided to paint the side mirrors & front grille that were both black. I will be e-mailing you a picture in the next week or so to include on your site...until then keep the site going strong....Sebrings rule!!!!!!!!


Mradesky writes to Eric

I have been told that you are a Sebring expert and may have the answer to my question. I recently replaced the Oxygen Sensor but the Check Engine light is still on. Is there a reset switch for this light. I have asked the dealer, but they want me to bring the vehicle in and I'm sure they won't turn the light off for free. Mike

Eric responds: Disconnect your negative battery terminal for 15 minutes, then reconnect. This will clear your codes. You can also do this by pulling the 30 amp fuse labled (MOTOR) under the hood.


Chuck Cruse writes

Hello David I'm intereseted in a body kit for a 99 Sebring Lxi if you can e-mail back were I can go to buy and view different style I hope ypu can help me Thank You Chuck Cruse

Chuck's Website


Jamie D. Cornett writes

I came across your e-mail address on the Sebring owner's website. My question is that a few months back, I believe I saw a post from you about Power Stop extreme performance brakes. My question is this, do these brakes correct the problem of brake wear on the Sebring? I own a 97 and they are starting to squeal at all stops. Also, do any national chains sell these or are they only available online? Thank you for your time.

Eric Responds: Contact Ralph at Olympic tell him I sent you. He will set you up with a set of Powerstop SLOTTED rotors and Axxis metal master pads. I'm sure that they are available elsewhere but their prices and service is second to none. When you have them installed make sure that they replace the brake clips (Hardware) and lubricate ALL the contact points of the pad to the calipers. This will fix your problem.

BRAKES:
Front Axxis Pads........................23-484-01
Front Power Stop rotor/left side......JBR518SL
Front Power Stop rotor/right side....JBR518SR
Rear Axxis Pads.........................23-383-01
Rear Power Stop rotor/left side.......JBR772SL
Rear Power Stop rotor/right side.....JBR772SR
These are slotted rotors that will solve the warping problem so common on Sebrings/Avengers.


Wazzutime writes

All,

First of all I would like to Thank all of you in having an informative site regading the Chrysler Sebring.

As I have mentioned in the subject, I own a 96 Chrysler Sebring LXI with about 90K miles. I have two problems on my Sebring that I was wondering if any of you have any info on.

1) When applying my brakes, my steering wheel vibrates tremendously to a point where the whole car starts to vibrate. The higher the speed the greater the vibration is when the brakes are applied. (I noticed on your site that someone else has experienced something similar to this, curious if you have any other info).

2) My door lock switch/button works intermittently. When I push on the switch to lock my doors, sometimes it will lock and others it won't. Sometimes only one door locks, while the other doesn't. The fuse has blown once, but couldn't determine why. I have a feeling the relay(which I plan on buying a repair manual to determine where it is) is turning on intermittently or that the one of the door lock motors is getting ready to die and thus is pulling to much current.

Well, if you find any information it would be greatly appreciated. Want to thank you guys again for your site and taking the time out to read this message.

Eric Responds:1) Warped rotors, replace them with powerstop slotted rotors and axxis pads Olympic ask for Ralph tell him I sent you

2) There is a TSB out on this switch see your dealer



Phillip & Jaime Gordon write

We have a few techincal questions about our 95 Lxi. We bought it in 96, and currently have 88k on the odometer. It is Black with Silver trim, and has all of the features I have ever seen Sebrings with. First, a screw came loose from our sunroof. It was the front screw over the passenger's head. We have purchased the screw ($6..sheesh!), and now are trying to figure out how the brackets and sliding arms go to get it back together. The sunroof rattles allot now, but doesn't leak or allow road noise, but we would like to get it taken care of before spring.

Second, at about 65k we replaced the brake pads and rotor's on the front of the car, and pads in the rear. All of the sudden, the drivers side front brake squeels (very quiet, very lightly, occasionally during braking, but mainly during 30-45mph runs). Have since replaced pads twice, the latter being pads that were `guaranteed' not to squeel. Have taken it to Chrysler, and to Meineke and both said that there is nothing wrong with the car, and that it is `brake dust' on the rotor. I don't feel it can be brake dust, as the car has squeeled even after removing wheels and thourougly cleaning the rotor's. Also, when the squeeling problem arose, our ABS light suddenly came on. The light will not go off while you are moving. When you turn the ignition off, then re-start the car, the light goes off, until you move forward (doesn't happen no matter how far you go in reverse). Doesn't' come on when you shift into drive, but after you have moved about 3 to 6 ft. Any ideas? Light is annoying (very VERY annoying on 4 to 5 hr runs to KC).

Third, there is a noise in the dash (maybe dash, maybe high in the engine compartment?). It is a rattle that sounds like something large and metallic. One rattle above gauge cluster, one above Passenger SRS.

LXiSebring: It sounds to me like the brakes are staying on just a bit as you drive, but I will let Eric tackle this one. He knows a lot more about brakes than I do.

Fourth, what does the check engine light come on for? I know that low oil pressure will trigger the light, as will high engine temp, but are there any other things that will trigger it?

LXiSebring: All sorts of things trigger the check engine light. When it happens car computer stores a code that the dealer can read which tells specifically why it came on. Usually it is a problem related to an emission control sensor but there are many other possibilities. The light came on for the first time last week. The car was low on oil (had put in low viscosity oil for winter, but cold never came. Have been running car with low weight oil for 2 months now_that is what it has to be_can't be that I have been running the piss out of it), and the light extinguished when I put a quart in, but my pickup (Mazda) has a feature (sheesh) that signal's the dummy light to come on at 85k for scheduled tuneup. I haven't seen anything about this with the Chrysler, but I was wondering if the Chrysler guys are trying to get me to bring it in?

Fifth, when is the car scheduled for a new timing belt? This week it has started to idle a bit rough (mild shaking in drive, stopped at lights after warmed up). Wondering about timing_have already replaced plugs and wires, 20k ago. Any ideas? LXiSebring:You do need to have the timing belt changed--it was due at 60,000 miles While you are there you can get the check engine light checked out & the sunroof screw put in.

Anyways, our car is going on 5 years old now, and, besides the regular little things that come with driving it every day, it has been perfect. None of the transmission problems I've read of, or the body cladding coming off..NOTHING. We tinted the windows, which REALLY made the car look better, and put a modest stereo system in (8" PPL ported, running from a Kicker 50x2, bridged. Eclipse 54xx head unit with voice activated Global Navigation System, new Diamond Audio's in the doors and dash) and a new alarm. We have tried to make the scheduled tuneups..but do most of our stuff in summer. Will be getting a new paint job (stock colors) this summer. Other than that, we are happy that our car is so reliable. To all other Sebring owners; DON'T go to Auto Zone. We had to go through 3 starters before they realized that they didn't' carry the right one. We purchased the first one (the one they said was for a 95 model), and when it didn't' fit, they claimed that maybe our engine was a 96, and so we picked up the second one, which also didn't fit, so they said that maybe the chrysler van starter would work (didn't'). After we returned the last starter and went to Chrysler to pick up a stock one, we found out that there were NO changes to the starter between 95 and 97_hmmmm?!? We also couldn't find a battery from Auto Zone that fit the battery cover that came with the car. Looked through all of their batteries (having minor back pains from carrying them all back and forth), and had to go to Wal Mart, who had the right one sitting out for us, $35 cheaper!! Any-hoo. Hope you all have as much fun in your Sebring as we've had (and will have) in ours!

Eric responds: Fuel filter is a pain and will cost about $100,save that for later. Put in new NGK plugs, wires, and run 87 octane Amaco fuel for a whole tank. Also after the car is warmed up,shift into 2nd gear,and leave it there. Dont go over 50 MPH. It will still start out in 1st when you pull away from a stop so dont worry, but it wont shift past 2nd. This will race the engine like 4000 RPM's or so.There is a safety device that will shift the car into 3rd at redline about 55 MPH+,but will down shift back into 2nd at say 60 MPH. I'll do this like on my way home from work every so often. This would be a great idea after your plug and fuel change.


Mrs Morris writes

My husband and I purchased a 1996 Chrysler Sebring LXI about five months ago and have had it at the dealer for work four times. When going down hills the steering wheel starts shaking and it get so bad that every time you touch the brake it shakes. The first time we took it in they shaved the rotors down, the secound they said they replaced the roters, the third they shaved them and then the fourth they shaved them again! We are very unhappy with our purchase and wonder if anyone eles is having this problem with their Sebrings. Any information would be helpful.

LXiSebring: hmmm.. you have shaking in the steering and they work on the brake rotors? that doesnt make sense to me at all. I suggest you have another dealer check it out. Tell them the problem is with the steering not the brakes


Scott Hanawalt writes

Hello, I am the "sorta" proud owner of a 96 Sebring LXI. It is black with the silver cladding. Grey leather. All power-so forth. I've only owned the car now for about a month and a half and I've already ran into the "notorious" brake problem. My new problem is all the noises and rattles I'm hearing. I hear a rattle when I accelerate at during certain RPM's and when it idles. I had the belts replaced today and it seemed to get rid of the noise at idling. After the replacement-I got a new rhytmic ticking from down low on the passenger side front. My next problem is my idle. I mainly notice the problem when I have a lot of thing running like the lights, heater and such. The rpm's will bounce up and down as I'm coming to a stop and get to the point of also stalling the motor. Once I'm stopped-I seem to be okay.

I really liked the looks of the car when I saw it-and I just had to have it. I'm wishing now that I would have just stayed with my prior truck (s-10). The thing to a beating and kept on going. If I feed this car anymore baby food---I think I'm going to have to by diapers for it!!! By the way---my dealer warranty is up----so they won't help me anymore.


Damon Morales writes

Hey there I'm a Sebring LXi owner. I've been reading through some posts and noticed that I have had some of the same problems with my car. I'm happy with the way the car looks, inside especially but I'd like to modify it a bit and can't find anything on the internet to give me ideas. I've already tinted the windows and added new rims but after having them installed I'm not so sure I like them. I think it's kinda hard to find a set of rims that really make the car look mean. Can you help me with any suggestions. I'd really like to increase horsepower because frankly this car has no balls. Too bad they didn't put some more hp on this thing it would be nice. Anyway I'd like to be added to the new owners file and as soon as I take a photo I'll send it in.


Trina Cook writes

Hello, I am a young '98 Sebring owner as of 5/6/99. I have always wanted one especially when they first came out. Unfortunately, even though I had a real good job at the time, I did not have the funds to purchase one at that time. (And thank God I didn't since I went into debt just shortly after...college dues...lost job...etc...). But in an odd hit of luck (if you want to call it that) I was in a wreck in late April that totaled my '95 neon and made it able for me to pay off the debt I had left and have my credit shining to buy a car. Well as luck had it the week before I had spotted a beautiful used '98 white Sebring with only 17,500 miles on it for only $14,995.00. Since I have sold cars before I should have been leery over the low price being it booked at $18995.00 but it was calling me and I had to have it. Of course I had to wait for insurance to clear (it wasn't my fault and etc) and I did my researching (spotted your Internet site) and bought it.

Well I have had it for about 8 mths now and last mth something happened...I had been having problems since the purchase of the car with the cladding on the side. Funny I read on the site that only older model years were having this problem. But I think whoever owned this car before did not take care of it. There are scratches on the back passenger bumper and on the tail light. The paint is also faded in a funny way on the "nose" of the car. So maybe (being the passenger cladding was the one falling off) the person who had it was irresponsible, got into a wreck, and got the car was Repo'ed since the dealer bought it from an auction. BUT to keep from making this a novel...Last month I started off to work in Sacramento and my car died at a stop light. Then the check engine light came on shortly thereafter and I noticed the speedometer and the trip was not working. Then a moment after that I noticed I was tacked out and my engine was revving high. (Not shifting) Well the dealership was great and provided me with a nice rental free of charge. They looked it over said they couldn't find anything and the code that spit out of the computer was a code not recognized before. They proceeded to "reset" the computer and it worked for them. The next morning the same thing. This time they kept it for 2 days. They called Chrysler engineers and no return call from them. By then I am thinking GREAT. Not even the people who created this can fix this. Well the techy there decided to run through every wire and he cleaned the grounds and thought once again it was fine. I had it over the weekend but I don't go anywhere and the following Monday...THE SAME PROBLEM...They then proceeded to try it again. The on site techy was out and they had to wait till he returned. He returned and by this time everyone there went insane and the techy decided to buy a new comp. unit for the transmission. Of course it took forever (12 days) to get it ordered/shipped here (holidays) and then once installed they kept it overnight to try it on a cold start since that is when the symptoms appeared. Well today I got it back and there have been no problems so far other than disorientation from not having my car for so long. Now hopefully no problems tomorrow or for the future for that matter. Thank God also this was all under warranty and I didn't have to claim a lemon as of yet since it would have been like having my heart ripped from my chest being I love this car that much.

Well now that I wrote a book... I was just curious if you have ever heard of that sort of problem before? Any advice if it comes up again past warranty or not? If this is something you have never heard of before and you are curious... The name of the Dealership is Hobblit Hanes (just recently changed from the Electric Garage) and they are located in Woodland, California. The Tech who worked on it was Eric too. 530-662-4667.

Hope you had a good holiday...Thanks for your time...


Eric responds:

Lots of times auction cars were in floods etc. The computer may have been shorted out, or maybe just a fluke. Computers are computers, they work or they don't. That would explain why the dealer couldnt find the problem. You were smart not to buy a car out of warranty that was from an auction.


Gregory Firestone writes

Here is the info about my 1999 Sebring LXI

Exterior: Indy Red
Interior: Black/Gray
Options: 24K Package
Sunroof
Infinity Speaker System
ABS ( This is another story. Has all the parts not connected)
Modification: 6-CD Changer trunk mounted
(Dealer Installed)
Dealer Delivery: 7/20/99
Customer Delivery: 09/04/99 (27 miles)
Only one mechanical problem with the car, needed to replace the Fuel Sending unit shorted out. Other problems shoddy pre-delivery inspection ( missing plastic trim, center caps for the wheels, slashed leather on steering wheel, scratches on trunk lid. Selling dealer refused to fix any of the above said not covered under warranty, took to another dealer near work, fixed the problems.

If you need anything else let me know


Steve Deak writes

I'd like to thank you for the help you provided with my 95 Sebring LXi. You hit it right on the head! It was an oxygen sensor. It's been running great ever since. Now I have another question. I finally did IT. I parked too close to a sidewalk and hosed up my front spoiler. Now it has a point in the middle like about 40% of the Sebrings I see on the road. Is ther any way to repair this, or should I just buy new one. And, how much will it cost?

LXiSebring: I think you are due for a body shop repair. THe estimates I've heard are (gulp) in the $800 range, tho this should be covered by your comprehensive auto insurance. You probably have a $300-$500 deductable on your insurance you will owe, however.


Tooquick writes

I am glad to see that someone is interested in the Chrysler Sebring coupe, I found this site to be very informative. Keep up the good work.


Wade Jackson writes

I Love your web site and although I knew about every problem encountered so far I bought one anyway. I owned a 1997 Paprika Sebring that I purchased in late 1996. I loved the car and had very minor problems with it. If fact, a rattling sunroof was the only problem, which the dealer managed to fix. Unfortunately, I traded it in early 1998 (With 22,000 miles on it) for a more "family" oriented car. (Subaru Outback) Although this was a very nice car and I never had a problem with it, the Outback just did not fit my personality. Therefore, after owning it for less than two years, I traded in the Outback for a used 1998 burgundy Sebring LXi with only 15,000 miles on it. Although I found your website before purchasing this vehicle and knew of all the problems, I decided to do it anyway since my previous Sebring was so wonderful to me. Sorry to say that was a big mistake!

After taking delivery from a very crappy dealership in New Jersey it only took one week for all of the problems to surface. (Must have been why the previous owner traded it so early) The first problem was a noise coming from underneath the car that sounded like an exhaust leak. This would only happen when the car would be in drive at a complete stop. A month later with no fix after three visits to the dealership (they didn't hear it) the noise has gotten much worse, especially when humid or running anything that puts a load on the engine (i.e. lights, defroster, power windows). I now suspect that a belt, power steering pump or alternator is to blame, as the noise appears to be chirping as well and does not appear to be associated with the exhaust.

The next problem that surfaced is a possible water or moisture leak. (Maybe around the windshield) When parked next to my wife's car I noticed that on humid or hazy days my windows would completely fog up on the inside while her windows are clear. This is accompanied by creaking cracking noises all around the base of the windshield on cold days. Also, even though I tried every trick possible to get the defroster working including the idea's mentioned on your web site, I can't clear my windshield when it fogs up. Instead I need to keep a towel handy to wipe it down when condensation builds up. This is also drying up my leather and destroying my carpeting. Although this would seem like a bad windshield seal, two different Chrysler dealerships can't find a leak.

The following are annoying items that I feel are just poor quality problems: 1. Loose passenger side airbag cover.

2. Squeaks coming from inside of passenger side airbag.

3. Loose sunroof that would hop up when I would shut the doors. (Fixed it myself)

4. Drivers door cladding coming loose from rubbing front fender cladding. (Hope they fix this under warranty)

5. Warped brake rotors. Dealership would only resurface because they are out of warranty. (I had to fight for that!!!)

6. Broken fuel gauge that claims I am empty with only 150 miles on the tank even though I go another 100 miles with the warning light on.

7. Discoloration of rear spoiler. (Look like water spots)

8. Excessive transmission hum between 35 and 40 mph. (I have seen this mentioned on your web site but I view this as a defect. My 97' did not do this)

9. Heavy wind noise from passenger door area.

10.Clattering from under the hood during harder acceleration that appears to be bad timing or misfiring.

I know I seem just a little harsh here but even after two months of ownership, 4 visits to the dealership and many pissed off days, I still love my Sebring. I don't know what it is about them. Almost addicting.

I still feel something should be put out more public to get Chrysler behind their product instead of screwing everybody. I do know the purpose of your website but it appears to be more of a complaint board than a message board. Why should we put up with all of these problems? If you buy a new T.V. and it only works half the time you take it back. If Chrysler can't figure out what is wrong with my car they should replace everything until it is fixed.

Anyway, if you are still reading my letter at this point I appreciate it. I 'll be curious to see if anybody else has experienced similar problems and if they have a resolution to it.

Coincidentally, my wife has a Chrysler 300m that has been completely perfect for 6 months. I was expecting the opposite but it appears most of the problems with my Sebring are related to Mitsubishi products rather than Chrysler's. Now that's saying something.

Thanks for the great site and keep up the good work.


Thasalene Gamble writes

I live in South Carolina. When I first saw the chrysler Sebring I fell in love. After about two months of ownership I feel out love. I had a great deal of problems with my Sebring along with the dealership that i purchased my car from. In May of ' 99 I almost lost my life in my car. In April i took my car to Hoover Chrysler Ply.,Dodge to have a oil leak repaired (this was the second time) when my husband and I went to pick up the car he notice that when he cranked the car up there was no oil pressure. So the service department said to leave it and they would check it out. When we called the next day they told us that they place the wrong part on my car and would have it fixed by end of business that day. So we picked up the car they assured us that every thing was taken care of. On May 8th I was on my way to work when I noticed that smoke was coming from under my hood. I turned around and was on my way back home when it started to get very hot and smoke filled the inside. I decided to pull into a lane to stop and see what was going on. Just as I put the car in park the vents in the car was slightly melted. I jumped out of the car and within a minute my car was totally in flames. I have a law suit against chrysler. My insurance along with chrysler had a investigator to look at the car and have found chrysler to be at fault.


LXiSebring: This was clearly a serious mess up at the dealer service dept.


Bruce Burke writes

I have a 1996 Sebring LX. A few weeks ago, a woman in a Ford Explorer made an abrupt left turn in front of me. I was thinking that since the fascia/hood need replacement, I would like to go with the slightly higher 1997 fascia. I called the repair department at the local Chrysler dealership and was told that this wasn't possible ("won't fit").

My objective is to keep from cracking the fascia - it's happened countless times that I've parked the car with the front end going over the parking block, but when I return, the air in the tires has cooled, lowering the car and the fascia lip catches on the parking block.

I thought about larger tires, but the dealer recommended against that. My brother suggests curb feelers, but those won't help with the ubiquitous dips and speed bumps in Los Angeles' streets (I live in a hilly part of town, which doesn't help either).

From the look of the other Sebrings on the road, this is a COMMON problem. I'm wondering what the more ingenious Sebring owners are doing...

Thanks!


Edward J. Oest writes

I live in Florida and have a Red 97 Sebring LXi. My only real complaint is that the front end overhang is too low and spend too much time worrying about parking curbs and driveways. I cracked it, but easily repaired it with a fiberglass kit patch. The CD was replaced three times under warranty. The rather expensive tires were replaced at 40,000 miles. I think the most amazing thing you will find is that I have 68,000 miles on the car with the original brakes, pads, and rotors. They were checked two weeks ago and and still don't need replacement.

LXiSebring: Lucky you!!!


Dave Terry writes

My car is a 1997 Sebring (2.0L DOHC, 5-speed) with 39,700 miles. It was bought new in March 1997. It has developed a problem that I would like to share with you. Whenever I shift gears, the engine indicator lights will flash briefly while I let out the clutch and step on the gas. If I don't let the clutch out, then engine will die. None of the other electrical systems are affected. It's as though the ignition systems hiccups. It will only do this when I step on the clutch. If the clutch is engaged and the transmission is out of gear, I can rev the engine to my heart's delight without any problem. It doesn't do this ALL the time, but frequently enough that I'm beginning to get paranoid. It also seems to be MORE prevalent when it's cold than when it's hot.

Now, here's what I have done: Took the car to the shop. Diagnostics said nothing was malfunctioning. (By the way, I couldn't get the car to act up while at the stop. Go figure.) Had the spark plugs replaced. Had the throttle body cleaned. No change.

Any ideas on what could cause this? Could it be the computer chip? I am truly baffled.

One last item: the passenger side mirror whistles like a banshee at high speed (in A-flat I am told). Any solutions?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Eric Responds: I'd get the dealer to hook up the "co-pilot" if they look at you funny go elswhere. The copilot will record the status as you drive. When it acts up you hit a button and it records the cars status. Then they can look at the problem more clearly.


Dave Terry now writes

My Sebring engine problems have been solved. The dealer managed to track down the source to a malfunctioning controller in the PCM. The PCM was covered under the 8/80000 federal emissions warranty, thus saving me $590 plus labor.

Thanks again for all your help and for the site. I now know more about my car's powerplant and how to diagnose problems than I ever did before.